ITALY

SATURDAY, 30 AUGUST 2008

We enjoy an early morning walk/jog on a track overhung with trees, by a farm with its orchard, vines, corn crops and cows with their bells jingling.

Later we have a surprise visit from a man and his daughter and her friend who swim out to the boat. They come on board for a cup of tea, and are soon joined by his wife. They are yachties themselves who have sailed a lot of the Mediterranean so are very interested in Impulsive and our trip. Their daughter is planning to come to Australia on a university exchange program so we hope we see her there. They invited us to contact them when we arrive in Rome.

The family from Rome swimming back to shore

It is 20n.miles north along the coast to anchor at Oligastro under Punta (Pt.) Licosa. This is another small resort town, and pleasant to walk around and have dinner. The tiny church here has a service at 6.30pm and it is lovely to hear the church bells followed by hearty singing by a very enthusiastic congregation who overflow to the many chairs outside.

SUNDAY, 31 AUGUST 2008

We take advantage of the calm weather forecast and head directly to the Amalfi coast. The marina is usually full at Amalfi, and very expensive so we can anchor outside if necessary. (We had planned to moor at Salerno marina and catch a train to Pompeii, so we will postpone this land trip).

There is just enough wind to motor sail with both sails up for the 30n.miles tracking slightly west of north. This is a lovely passage over the bluest of waters which you can look down into from the bow of the boat and see the light refracting. It is spectacular coming into Amalfi by boat seeing the colourful houses cling to the cliff faces, often looking like a wedding cake, and surrounded by steep, terraced mountains.

Amalfi - wedding cake effect of houses

The Duomo dome is glistening with its green and yellow tiles in the sun. It seems amazing we can anchor just 100m. off-shore from this well known sophisticated resort along the Amalfi coast.

This used to be a strategically important and strong maritime town. It is one of the 4 powerful Maritime Republics which in the Middle Ages (839-1135AD) established productive relationships with other people, and especially with the Orient.

We want to make the most of our time here so go ashore for lunch, sitting looking over the marina.

The Duomo is a most impressive building with its sumptuous baroque interior dating back to C18. St. Andrew, Jesus' first disciple, features here rather than Christ himself. St. Andrew's bones are in the crypt. The Cloisters of Paradise are the ancient cemetery for the noblemen of Amalfi, built between 1266-8.

It is great to have some quiet time on the boat, swimming off her stern, and drawing the marvellous scene ahead of Amalfi.

We venture ashore again for dinner at the family run Trattoria San Guiseppe. It is very difficult to find amongst Amalfi's many narrow alleyways.

MONDAY, 1 SEPTEMBER 2008

An early morning walk starts the day, followed by coffee and lemon custard filled croissants at a waterside cafe while we try our hand at capturing the wedding cake effect of some of the houses.

Views of Amalfi from above

Soon we leave for Positano, another favourite place for tourists on the Amalfi coast we have really been looking forward to seeing. It is wonderful again to approach from the sea with the sun shining over its multi-coloured houses set against the backdrop of high mountains. The tourist season has obviously dropped off in this area. We are able to get a mooring easily and there are not many visiting boats. The man on the neighbouring boat and manager of the moorings are both very welcoming and friendly. There is still a large number of ferries coming and going though, as in Amalfi, which set up constant large swells.

We have never climbed as many steps as we have here. We are trying to find a recommended tratorria, and after climbing up many stairs and lots of walking discover its 10ks away so give up and have a delicious lunch with wonderful views at nearby Cafe Positano.

We travel by dinghy tonight to the recommended trattoria, Il Pirate at Priano. This is quite an adventure to a trattoria set on a narrow rock ledge and only 3m above sea level. It has to be one of the most romantic restaurants we have ever been to, especially as they light the candles and the nearby evening lights come on.

We talk to the proprietor, Rino, who bought this area on the mountain years ago and gradually set it up as it is today. Now there are other family members involved, eg. a cousin runs the hotel they built.

Last year there were huge seas from the south that wiped out much of their trattoria, eg. they had to replace china and wine. He also explains how expensive real estate is now along the Amalfi coast as no new building is permitted - only approved renovations.

The trip back in the dinghy in the open sea is quite something! The sea is calm, though and we appreciate having this stronger dinghy and motor or we could not have contemplated doing this.

Rino tells us his life long dream is to sail around the world, so we invite him to the yacht in the morning. He is very busy tomorrow with a full booking of 100 people (we were lucky to strike a quiet night with only a few people), so we are not too hopeful.

When we get back to Impulsive we have a taste of the locally grown Malvasia wine from Lipari.

TUESDAY, 2 SEPTEMBER 2008

We ring Sam Macaw for his 6th birthday. We are always sorry to miss these occasions.

Then we set off to Nocelli, a small mountain top village. This initially involves a walk along the coast with spectacular views, and then a climb up 1700 steps. This number doesn't look much on paper but it certainly is to do it. We enjoy seeing the attractive houses built into the side of the mountain with their lovely gardens and the occasional swimming pool. They all enjoy these views.

Views from the walk to Nocelli (Positano)

Many of them have orchards and vegetable gardens. It is interesting many are starting their pruning.

View of the Duomo from the walk

We came back down to Positano via another route. It is fascinating to see the engineering feats managed here with the road and tunnel constructions high up on the side of the mountains. It all looks impossible.

This exercise takes 3 hours and is so rewarding as it really gives us a better feel for the place.

Early afternoon we track further west along the Amalfi coast to moor in a marine reserve. This is a beautiful little cove but has no moorings and we are not permitted to anchor in this reserve.

We track a short distance west across to anchor off the east coast of Capri in another beautiful and isolated place. The waters are turquoise and sheer rocks rise straight up out of the water. As dusk falls all the other boats leave and we are the only ones left to enjoy this treat of nature.

SICILY - Poem

Poem

When you sail into Taormina
You can anchor just off the shore
You take the bus to the old hill-top town
With its arches and lanes to explore.

You are not the only ones here, of course
The crowd bustles up and down
You can idle and watch it all go by
With the painted, miming clown.

When we sail south to Aci Trezza
We tie between fishermen
Mandie flies in from England to join us
And make us feel younger again.

The man at the bus stop called Bruno
Is our self-appointed guide
Of the buildings and squares of Catania
While Mount Etna stands smoking beside.

At Siracuse we tie on the old town quay
Alongside some vast power boats
The passegiata (evening stroll) comes right beside
To inspect everything that floats.

We go on a tour to the old baroque towns
At Nota we sample granita
There's Ragusa's tiled dome and the heights of Scicli
After chocolate and lunch at Modica.

Further south down the coast's Marzamemi
We sail with a gentle breeze
They just fit us in at the end of an arm
It's August and often a squeeze.

To enjoy the old town La Balata
We ignore spray paint desecration
Then we round Cape Passero to let Mandie off
At the downtown Pozzallo bus station.

You must find time to visit Marsala
Garibaldi's the place to dine
Walk the limestone paved streets, see the tapestries
And then taste some local wine.

And why not then try the Isole Egadi?
Favignana's a tourist-strewn town
But slip off to tiny Levanzo
You can jog, have a swim, just slow down.

As I sit here and write this the wind has died down
The rocks are now bathed in soft light
Life's decisions don't seem very difficult here
So we stay for another night.

When you go to Trapani be sure to arrive
On a Sunday, to hear the church song
Then walk the town streets, find a good place to eat
And delight in the town sing-along.

The singing and stage seem part of life here
The hymns could get you to mass
And as well as good singing the town square produced
A tiny Maria Callas.

We motor-scoot up to the Erice town
Walk its beautiful stone-paved streets
Then we tear down to San Pantaleo
Whence Phonecians beat their retreat.

When we drop anchor just off Scopello
The wind comes up from north-east
We must shelter at Terrasini
(25 knots of wind, at least).

It drops next day and we head further east
To Isola delle Femmine
We do some boat chores, swim, paint and walk
How better to spend a day?

The mafia must be on holiday
When we tie in Palermo's port
The old town is grubby but it grows on you
There are no signs of crime to report.

Our highlight is Monreale
With its fabulous biblical scenes
Done in gold trimmed mosaics, and Christ presides
Looming large,with his lit face serene.

The market exudes its enticing smells
And the sounds of strife and laughter
The veggie man wraps in a paper cone
The gadget man has the magnet we're after.

Cefalu is a medieval town
That is beautifully preserved
We anchor off Porto Vecchio
But the swell spoils the sleep we deserved.

Now we're off to explore the Isole Aeolie
Filicudi's the first place to stop
We find a free mooring and run up the road
Almost, but not quite, to the top.

At Salina the boatman insists that we move
(But the mooring turns out to be free)
An Australian flag doesn't help here as much
As it did back in the Aegean sea.

At Lipari the boatman restores our faith
In the friendly Sicilian way
A welcoming smile is all that it takes
For us to be willing to pay.

We bathe in the Volcano thermals
We walk in Lipari's rain
We soak up some archeology
We stop at our cafe again.

Panarea's a tiny car-free isle
As if Greek, it's white and blue
We enjoy a drink at the Raya Hotel
As the lightning flashes through.

The water out here is a marvellous mix
Of all the blues in the pallette
It's a joy to dive and swim in it
(an American would sell it).

Stromboli gives us a farewell display
As it belches smoke and fire
As we sail away to the mainland coast
It sends smoke ever higher.

August 2008

FAVOURITE RECIPES THIS LEG:

A lunch time salad:

2 slices of watermelon per person
Wrap each slice in smoked salmon and place a small piece of mint on each one (squeeze lime juice over the smoked salmon).

Serve with caprese (sliced tomato, bocciccini and basil) Cos lettuce with thinly sliced carrot and cucumber and Italian parsley for decoration.

All the ingredients are fresh from the market, except for the smoked salmon which was bought in Sri Lanka and had been in the freezer. The freezer on the yacht is excellent.

-----------------------------------------

Favourite recipe this leg:

Pasta dish

Toss still warm soba noodles in light vinaigrette dressing with a packet of local "pasta" herbs from the market (take out some of the chili according to taste - it can be harsh on dry lips)
Toss through: cos lettuce
cherry tomatoes
beans
avacado
tuna
goat's cheese (or fetta)
basil
arrange hard-boiled eggs on the top

CAPRI - NAPLES - POMPEII

WEDNESDAY, 3 SEPTEMBER 2008

Anchorage s.e. coast of Capri

We up anchor early to come round to the n.west side of Capri to see its famous Blue Grotto before the crowds arrive. We are unable to find it looking from the yacht, even though it is marked on the chart but shows as slightly off the coast. We continue on further to anchor outside Marina Grande. A berth here can cost $A360 per night, so we are delighted to still have a calm weather forecast so we can anchor outside.

We find an excursion boat back to the Blue grotto. The entrance to this is so small and low we have to lie down flat in the small row-boat to enter it, so no wonder we were unable to find the opening.

The colours in here with the rays of sunlight refracting through them with such clarity range from sky blue through to turquoise.

Strangely, we enjoyed the trip around the island seeing other grottos and landmarks, and some homes of the rich and famous, eg. Sophia Loren and Georgio Armani.

Late afternoon we try to organize a scooter to do some exploring and to book at a recommended restaurant up in Capri town. Ross has asked around and decides that the scooter hire is over the top here. It proves to be a good decision. We take a taxi ride up to the main town and quickly see you are taking your life in your own hands to tackle the narrow, winding streets and the Italian drivers on a bike. The bikes cannot be ridden through the pedestrian streets of the town down the cobbled narrow streets with every possible designer shop known. (Ross doesn't enjoy shopping but I am very spoilt here - actually my only clothes shopping for this leg of the trip). We enjoy the long walk along the mountainside by many grand mansions and hotels, and their gardens, looking for this particular place. We find Villa Brunelli perched up high and looking over the most spectacular views down to the sea and some of the coves on the south side of the island, and are able to secure a table for later with this view.

We find a stair route back down to the port to take the dinghy back to Impulsive. Later we take the funicular back up to Capri town to go to dinner at Brunellis, which is a great experience, and delicious.

THURSDAY, 4 SEPTEMBER 2008

It is impressive that a rubbish collector comes past the boat each morning, as in Positano.

We try another form of transport this morning as we set off in a bus for Anacarpri, another mountain top town.

Villa San Michele up here is an original historic villa with the most breath taking views of Capri, the Sorrento peninsular and the Bay of Naples. Between 1896 and 1907 it was the home of its Swedish creator, court physician, and writer Axel Munthe. The garden, with its long, curved pergola is stunning and a joy to walk through.

Another bus trip takes us to the Faro (lighthouse) where we begin a coastal walk to the 4 fortresses. This is a 3 hour walk and is punctuated along the way with beautiful tiles depicting the local flora, fauna and fish with illustrations and descriptions. The walk itself has amazing views and highlights the colours of the seas here. The walk gives you a better idea of Capri rather than just remembering it for all its tourist shops.

This takes us to the Blue Grotto where we catch a bus back to the port. We admire the bus drivers on how they manage and judge passing other vehicles on roads obviously not built for buses. They are all polite to one another and seem to know who should give way to whom.

We have had a wonderful time in Capri after expecting it to be very busy and glitzy. In contrast to this it has been very manageable.

The next two islands we visit in the Bay of Naples have been recommended by the Roman family we met recently at Cape Palinuro. Mid-afternoon we leave for Procida, the first of these. It is a very attractive, small harbour and marina at Chiaiolella. This is our first marina stop for 12 days and decide to go in because it is a safe place to leave Impulsive safely to do a proposed day trip tomorrow, and she needs a good wash down with fresh water. The cost is rather exorbitant but well worth it. There isn't much here but the long beach is very popular for holidaymakers. There is a very friendly atmosphere here.

Stuffed zucchini flowers are popular with the local cuisine here. They are such a treat in Australia it is amazing to find they sold at street stalls in parts of Italy.

FRIDAY, 5 SEPTEMBER 2008

We catch an early bus to the port of Procida. We like this noisy trip across the island, rattling along the narrow, winding, cobbled streets past the pastel houses. Fortunately, we just make it in time to take the hydrofoil to Naples. We decide it is easier to do this to explore Naples and Pompeii than bring the boat to Naples which we are warned is very busy.

After arriving in Naples we happen upon a guide/ driver to take us to Pompeii. This is an excellent option as we were walking to the train station to get to Pompeii. It will be a long day anyway and this will make it more manageable. We are at Pompeii before 9am. so beat the heat and the crowds.

Pompeii

Pompeii, rising on a plateau of Vesuvian lava, is an ancient city dating from the end of C7 and so well preserved since the eruption of Vesuvius in 79A.D. There is so much to see with its architecture, sculptures, paintings and mosaics.

It is very moving to think of all the lives lost here, especially when you see a few plaster casts of the victims of the eruption.

Our guide drives us to see the major landmarks in Naples so we can find our own way back after lunch at a restaurant he recommends looking over the waterfront near the old castle. We try a Nepalese pizza, as this is where pizzas originated. It is extra good, and well washed down with a glass of the local white wine.

The old castle - Naples

Our guide explains how expensive real estate is in Naples. For young married couples both need to work just to rent a 2 bedroom apartment. He surprises us when he says he is 74 (he seems much younger), retired and doing this job to boost his pension. He finds out which cruises are coming in each day and goes down to meet them to find his clientele. He explains we are lucky as there are only 2 cruisers due in today. Yesterday there were 5 and the whole place, including Pompeii, were very crowded.

We have been warned to watch for pickpockets, especially in Naples. We take precautions but don't experience any problems.

This afternoon we wander for several hours to see the Plazza Del Plebiscito with the palace and the Palazzo Reale, the Chiaia and Santa Lucia areas with their up-market shops, and Spaccanapoli area, ie. the old town and student areas.

The return trip on the ferry includes a view of the Q.E. 2.

We spend time at Port Procida when we get back. It is a lovely small town with its faded, pastel coloured houses, and has an attractive, popular, small pebbled beach nearby where we enjoy a quiet relax as the sun is going down. Port Procida

We have a simple dinner looking over the port before we catch the bus back to Impulsive. This trip is a real local scene. We are all packed into this small bus like sardines and every time the bus stops and starts we all lurch forwards and back. Every time it comes to a stop people have to get out to let people off. The driver copes with all this as well as managing the driving in the traffic and the narrow streets.

SATURDAY, 6 SEPTEMBER 2008

Our run/walk this morning takes us across the footbridge to Isola Vivara. This crosses the bay of Vivara which is one of the old volcanic craters of the island. This island is a nature reserve where birds are protected.

Footbridge to Isola Vivara

Now we head towards the largest island in the Gulf of Naples.

ITALIA - Poem

ITALIA

We're less than 200 miles from Rome
You'd expect a tourist zone
But we anchor at Cape Palinuro
And end up being alone.

A family swims out from the shore
And comes aboard for a chat
It's one of the pleasures of yachting
To have unscheduled visits like that.

When we anchor at Oligastro
It's Sunday. The church bell rings
The square outside the church is packed
The congregation sings.

Amalfi and Positano: such names!
As exotic as names can be
Yet we're sitting not 200 yards offshore
Having just wandered in by sea.

At Amalfi have warm fish salad for lunch
With a golden glass of white wine
See St Andrews Duomo, sketch the wedding cakes
Go to San Guiseppe's to dine.

From Positano it's only 4 miles
To Il Pirate by sea
Take the tender there and dine on the rock
And come home carefully.

When you're feeling a bit energetic next day
Walk the staircase built from stone
To the top of the hill to Nocelle
It will show if your legs were in tone.

There's still no wind and it's calm at night
So we anchor on the east of Capris
20 metres away from the sheer rocky cliff
In a baby blue-turquoise sea.

"You have to visit Capris at least once"
That's what the pilot book states
We think we could come back here again
Though there's work to be done on dates.

We anchor just off Marina Grande
We find Christie's bathing suit rack
We eat memorably at Villa Brunella
We walk the 4 forts track.

The marina at Chiaiolella
Is a safe place to leave the boat
The cafes are spoiled by scooter noise and fumes
But the run to Vivari is not.

We rattle by bus to Procida town
We do the tour of Pompeii
We enjoy a long walk through Naples
As well as the pizza café.

We anchor next day at Ischia, on a
Special anniversary day
We dine and dance on Impulsive
Six chef's hats, at least, I would say.

We tour Ischia by scooter
And discover St Angelo
So we come here and anchor. In the morning light
The pinks and ochres glow.

At Ventotene the Romans carved
The harbour from the rocks
Then the lighthouse was built and to finish the scene
There are pastel building blocks.

At Ponza Island we anchor again
Near a wind-carved limestone bay
It's calm and private and also avoids
The fees they want yachties to pay.

There are pastel coloured buildings again
The sea's as clear as you could wish
I have hundreds of helpers to clean the hull
In the form of colourful fish.

We are on our last leg; we have 60 miles
To finish the voyage to Rome
We think Italia is wonderful
But we're also thinking of home.

September 2008

ISHOLA ISCHIA & ISOLA VENTOTENE TO ROME

SATURDAY, 6 SEPTEMBER 2008 (Cont).

We head west for 3 n.miles sailing to Isola Ischia in the Flegree group of islands to anchor off the beach outside Porto d'Ischia. This is a very colourful scene with all the beach umbrellas organized in groups of their different colours along the beach. The beach is packed with people lying in the sun, swimming and children just romping having fun.

Late afternoon we take the dinghy inside the port and have a stroll around the town. The port is very attractive, even though it is so busy, and is difficult to get a berth in. We have decided to anchor outside tonight anyway after 2 nights in the marina. It's lovely to have the feeling of space and quiet. We cook a delicious dinner on the boat.

SUNDAY, 7 SEPTEMBER 2008

This is another lovely place to swim off the back of the boat. In fact, we decide to have a relaxing time and stay here another night. Ross listens to the weather report on the HF radio and checks the weather grid on the sea mail on the computer and all looks clear for the next few days to take us through to Rome. We have a day or two spare in our schedule to allow for winds against us.

A motorbike excursion on the island is great fun. It is risky but Ross drives carefully as we strike some Sunday afternoon traffic on the way back. There are several other attractive ports, lush vegetation rising up towards the mountainsides, thermal springs and houses nestled in with their white, rose or Naples yellow washes. Along a major cliff top are some grand mansions. The highlight is Sant'Angelo D'Ischia, a small port on the east side, joined to Ischia by a narrow sandy isthmus. The harbour is at the base of the steep cliff faces. The Roman family we met had recommended this place. It is a gem. We decide to return here with the yacht.

Back at Porto Ischia looking at the other boats we find a large motor cruiser with a couple on their way to Hamilton Island. We are always pleased to see others flying the Australian flag.

We think we are having a simple dinner ashore but find they are still charging high season prices! It is lovely sitting by the harbour, people and boat watching.

MONDAY, 8 SEPTEMBER 2008

We get back around to Sant'Angelo D'Ischia for breakfast anchored just outside the tiny port here. We enjoy some time ashore and then a swim off the boat before leaving in a westerly direction 21 n.miles to Isola Ventotene. The forecast suggests a 16kts wind coming up on the nose by 3pm (and often it is stronger than is forecast), so Ross wants to be there before this change happens.

Anchoring offshore here is difficult but it is very amusing to see Ross fully dressed leaning over the stern swimming board with his goggles and snorkel on looking under the water to find some sandy bottom without too many rocks.

It would have been quite exciting to go into this historic little harbour which was dug out of rock by the Romans. The port was built for the galleys and has several galley sheds also cut out of the rock.

Ventotene has a history of people who were exiled here, including Nero's wife as requested by his then mistress.

We really enjoy this island wandering around in the early evening and later sitting in the busy town square watching all the locals catching up on their news of the day. We have dinner on a terrace overlooking the sea watching the moon coming up with its reflections shining over the calm sea.

Unfortunately, there is a strong swell when we return to Impulsive but we still manage to have a reasonable sleep.

Leaving Ventotene

TUESDAY, 9 SEPTEMBER 2008

With a similar forecast to yesterday we leave in good time to track 35 n.miles just north of west to Isola Ponza. Again, we anchor outside in a small cove opposite a beach. There are other yachts and some large cruisers here. The clear turquoise waters are sensational to swim in here with colourful small blue fish that seem to enjoy the company.

Ponza viewed from the anchorage here

We only have 60 n.miles to go to Rome and excellent weather forecasts so we can have 2 relaxing nights here. Ross takes advantage of these conditions to scrub the hull of the boat. This is not a job to do in a marina with many other boats close by and not the cleanest of waters. The coating the hull had when Impulsive was out of the water in Phuket contains lead (apparently illegal to apply in Australian waters) has kept the hull in very good condition.

We seem to get many small fiddly jobs done without being under pressure for time.

Ponza is a very attractive town with its shop fronts, restaurants, and few hotels and houses set around the harbour. Houses rise up above with their colourful washes of rose, pinks, ochres, white and even blues, set amongst its productive green hills. The local red vine is highly recommended.

Because Ponza is relatively close to Rome it is a popular summer resort and we are advised that prices are extremely high here during July and August and then they drop. We discover the tourists have dropped off but not the costs eg. for dinner.

WEDNESDAY, 10 SEPTEMBER 2008

Today is very relaxed. We even have time to read.

We take a dinghy ride to explore the next few coves to explore the eroded rocks and cliff faces which have been naturally sculptured into fantastic shapes.

We go ashore later and enjoy another explore here and our last delicious (grilled baby calamari) dinner out in the islands. We notice the evenings are closing in much quicker now and there is definitely an edge on the night air.

THURSDAY, 11 SEPTEMBER 2008

We are greeted today by the most beautiful sunrise as we leave at 6am in a west of north direction for Rome. Daybreak is getting later now. Breakfast is interrupted by a visit from dolphins playing at the bow of the boat.

This trip is 60 n.miles and the conditions are flat calm. It's really lovely out here for our last day at sea for sometime.

We have some difficulty finding the marina we are booked into near Fumare Grande River. There are a few language problems and various names used for the same place.

As we come in it is welcoming to see the Henrys waving to us from Sweet Chariot (another Buizon) who we last saw in Larnaca marina in Cyprus. We catch up with their travels over dinner.

We have the next few days ahead to prepare Impulsive to leave her for the next 7 months. What a wonderful wealth of experiences we have had and now we are excited to be going home.

Favourite appetizer recipe this leg:

small zucchini thinly sliced

small eggplant, thinly sliced and allow to rest with a sprinkling of salt

2.5 strips of red peppers

Lightly pan fry (spray pan lightly with oil) above until tender, then set aside to cool on towelling.

On individual plates arrange the following to display their colours to advantage

- some of the above with freshly chopped Italian parsley and ground pepper; some fresh anchovy fillets in a small kos lettuce leaf, and a small serve of caprese salad each ie. sliced tomato with bocciccini cheese and fresh basil.

STILL MORE AEGEAN ISLANDS - Poem

STILL MORE AEGEAN ISLANDS

When we leave Mykonos for Naxos

It is blowing (we dragged anchor twice)
We rollick downwind under headsail alone
We are pleased there are no ropes to splice

Like Mykonos, Naxos is charming but packed
The alleys wind up through the shops
And cafes and bars and old Frankish town
And at night the town fairly hops

We motor bike up through the hills behind town
Past the old marble pits gleaming white
We find Apiranthos and Filoti
Bougainvillea splashed upon white

Will this meltemi stop? It's been blowing for days
When it drops off a bit we're away
To Paroika on Paros'north western side
A beautiful big calm bay

You immediately feel that the tempo has dropped
From a city to country town
We wander around the stone flagged lanes
And steps winding up and down

Antiparos (by ferry) slows down even more
We have omelettes and coffee ashore
Then we bike tour again through the terraced hills
(They are, sadly, not worked any more)

It's a lovely calm night at Sikinos
When we anchor outside the mole
We climb up this morning to Kastro
This is close to the Greek Islands soul

Now we're tied up at Santorini
And Kerrie and Michael arrive
We descend the town steps, ride donkeys back up
And watch Thira come alive

There's an issue here with our papers
The bureaucrats have a field day
Then the customs display some creative skills
And we're legal to go on our way

We depart Vlikhada marina
And sail slowly round the caldera
Past the port and the plug and then Oia
At the northern most end of Thira

There's a mooring they've kept at Thirasia
We climb up the steps to the top
We swim and we sketch and the crew do their tasks
It's a good low-key place to stop

Now we're off west to Folegandros
The bus barely climbs up it's hill
To the Hora. It bustles, musicians arrive
But old-timers sit there still

We drop anchor off Poliagos
Under Manolonisi's lee
A stern line induces the wind to drop
We're alone with the moon and the sea

Times are changing, we find, at Milos
High priced Plaka is where you should be
But the fuel man shows us his veggie patch
And at Klima the canteloupe's free

When Kerrie and Michael's bike comes adrift
They decide to resign their commissions
We see the Free Spirits at Sifnos
When we anchor in calm conditions

This morning we're heading to Hydra
Will the rich and the famous be here?
We were here nearly 32 years ago
Some memories are dim,some seem clear

Were the donkeys like that on the waterfront?
Where's the hotel? Who can tell?
Were the cafes paved with marble then?
Ah yes, I remember it well

It blows from the north at Mandraki Bay
So we hurriedly get under way
It keeps blowing harder; we creep back in
To the shelter of Poros Bay

This cloud has its silver lining though:
Poros channel and town to explore
Tiled villas sweep down to the water here
And the greenery softens the shore

If the wind drops down in the morning
As it will, supposedly
We'll be sailing through the Corinth canal
And farewell the Aegean sea


JULY 2008

LEAVING FOURNOI TO MYKONOS and POEM

LEAVING FOURNOI TO MYKONOS

MONDAY, 7 JULY 2008

The weather forecast encourages us to leave Fournoi after breakfast before the winds increase. A large fishing boat comes in and it takes 6 men a long time to clean out and organize their nets.

Leaving Port Fournoi we head straight into 25kt winds and 2 metre waves. We travel along the northern side of Ikaria to avoid the fierce gusts you would experience coming down off the mountains to the south. This only adds 6 n.miles and, hopefully, we will get a good sail. And we do, sailing up to 8kts. in a north of west direction close into the coast, and watching the sun sparkle on the blue water.

I shouldn't have written this now - the wind has dropped out and we are motor-sailing to Evdilhos about half way along the northern coast, which looks precipitous. This village is a quiet fishing village with high mountains behind it and a large bluff to the seaward side.

Our first impressions are disappointing. There seems to be a great deal of heavy road works development happening, and the coast guard official appears to be very unwelcoming. The latter is because he is getting excited trying to make us understand a huge ferry is coming in to berth near where we are trying to anchor. We then try to tie up stern-to on a concrete jetty which has a large piece broken off it on the port side. With the strong swell here this is difficult, and there is a sense of unease amongst the team, especially when Ross asks Phil to jump from the dinghy at the stern of the yacht to the jetty. He manages a very impressive leap. We laugh about this later as we had a similar situation when Phil crewed with us circumnavigating Australia, and he justifiably went on strike. There is not much said, but a better option is not readily apparent.

Finally, the decision is made to anchor and use a flopper stopper on the port side. This piece of equipment is attached from the boom which hangs from the port side down several metres into the sea and acts to steady the boat. This is very successful and we are comfortably settled for the night. It is lovely to hear the cicadas chirping from the shore. The water here is idyllic for swimming - clear, turquoise and bracing.

We all go ashore to do a drawing before dinner. We try the local Retsina (wine flavoured with resin) and decide it's not for our palettes. Ross pays his respects to the coast guard, who is welcoming after all, and suggests two local places for dinner. We enjoy a candlelight dinner on the waterfront and watch as the night lights of the town come on and leave their reflection across the water. The town softens at night and is gradually growing on us. We end up having a really lovely time here.

THURSDAY, 8 JULY 2008

After an early morning swim we leave to explore the island by car. Some of the interior of the island is very green with dry stone wall terracing, many oleanders, cacti of various types and Pencil Cyprus.

Karestos is a delightful small seaside town with a slate roofed church and without even a shop. Nobody appears to be up and about yet.

Driving through one of these mountain top villages a middle aged Greek woman waves us down outside her home. Sue asks for a lift to Therma, the seaside town known for its hot springs. This detour isn't very far and we all enjoy coming here.

Along the way we see many goat herds. They are able to survive in the most rugged countryside. From the n.east tip of the island there is a spectacular view back across the last few islands and their surrounding seas where we have just sailed by.

Argios Kirykos on the southern coast is the main port. It is large and is not protected from the prevailing winds as we are at Endhilos.

We up anchor at 11am to get underway before the wind comes up as forecast. We have a great sail of up to 8kts across the north coast listening to Beethoven's 9th symphony. Our destination is 50n.miles south west to Mykonos (about 7 hours). We are very fortunate it is a very calm evening and an excellent weather forecast so we can anchor off-shore a short dinghy ride to the old town. It is very unusual to be able to do this with the prevailing winds at this time of the year.

None of us have great expectations of Mykonos, especially after reading negative reports in some of the guide books. We all have a wonderful time here.

MORE GREEK ISLANDS

We're now alone,bound for Niseros
We moor at Mandraki port
There are motor bikes on the harbour front
We hire one for some sport.

The road winds up high to Nikea
The village seems barely alive
It has narrow lanes and colourful doors
Population: 35.

We relax on the cafe verandah
With the Icelanders we'd met before
Then the wind's in our face and the sun's in our eyes
And we're 19 years old once more.

We find Kos a bit disappointing
Like Rhodes but without the flair
We move on to Bodrum where Robbie and Phil
Have plenty of news to share.

We head out today towards Leros
Going Greek is the thing to do
But the wind comes up hard on the nose(again)
So we pull into Akyar Koyu.

Next day we drop anchor at Leros
At Pandeli,just off the beach
We eat with our feet in the pebbles tonight
These Greeks still have something to teach.

We set off again on the motor bikes
The castle's high up on the rock
The museum curator regales us with tales
(He has a plentiful stock).

We sail into Agathonisi(yippee!)
We must anchor in sixty feet
But it still offers six tavernas
And the view of the port's hard to beat.

Now it's Samos.We dock at Pythagorian
We're right in the centre of town
We've just tied up tight when Wendy and Phil
And their bags come sauntering down.

From Samos it's only a hypotenuse
To the ancient Ephesus site
There's a ferry to Kusadasi
The library's my favourite sight.

Now we're off on those powerful road bikes again
Exploring secluded towns
Psilli Ammos, Posidon and Kervelli Bay
With some swims and some rough ups and downs.

We sail west to Marathokambos
On Samos'south-western coast
We tie up beside a gulet here
We swim and have sketches to boast.

Fournoi,perhaps,is the pick of our spots
It's almost a never-ender
We sketch again, we walk to the church
We explore in the high speed tender.

The man who makes paint does very well here
Especially shades of blue
They paint the shutters and doors and sills
And the boats compete for it too.

Like the rest of the islands we've seen so far
They like Australians here
Nearly all claim Aussie relations
(Though the test of "relation's"unclear).

When Icarus flew a bit close to the sun
The wax melted out of his wings
He fell in the ocean just where we are now
Zeus said:"Just one of those things".

We anchor today at Evdhilos
On Icarus'northern shore
The swell settles down and the town comes alive
As we sit and sketch some more.

We leap up at dawn for the hill climb
Jack Brabham is at the wheel
Now we're sailing across to Mykonos
You would doubt that the blue is real.

We get here to find that the sea is so calm
We can anchor just off the town stage
We're not sure if anyone notices
We're not quite the average age.

July 2008

MYKONOS

MYKONOS

TUESDAY, 8 JULY 2008

We go in by dinghy past the famous row of old windmills on the hilltop and tie up at the small beach in front of the waterfront busy with restaurants. Dinner here, at sunset, is a treat. We meet two young women from New Zealand here who are living and working at Cephalonia. They are great fun and ask us to look them up when we arrive there.

Dinner is interrupted when Ross notices the dinghy is filling with water from the wash of a large ferry. It is lucky he sees this happening or the weight of the dinghy might have broken its lanyard and let it loose to the seas. He and Phil empty it out and lift it up onto the beach.

Behind the waterfront is Little Venice. It is very easy to lose your sense of direction here. We wander through these narrow and winding ally ways looking for an Internet for Phil and Wendy so they can book their ferry trip to Athens, and then a flight to London.

We come across many white-washed churches and hundreds of small shops selling very trendy clothes, jewelry and sandals. There are also galleries, restaurants and bars. And crowds of people. It is a wonderful place to people watch, especially seeing the young in their fashions.

Bougainvillea seems to be in full bloom and cascading just in all the right places. Mykonos is definitely touristy but somehow seems to manage it well.

WEDNESDAY, 9 JULY 2008

The wind is forecast to come up again, so we decide to up anchor and move to Ormos Bay for better protection. Just after we do this a very strong wind comes up. Phil and Robbie are anchored here too with their guests so we share some fun meeting for drinks on board and dinner on-shore at a taverna.

Phil and Wendy are staying an extra night rather than spending an extra night in Athens, so the four of us drive over to Super Paradise Beach and have a delicious lunch at the Coco Bar. The swimming is excellent, so we spend time just relaxing. There are obviously people here who lead alternative lifestyles, but everyone is happy relaxing in their own way.

THURSDAY, 10 JULY 2008

We see Phil and Wendy off at their ferry. As Phil would say "we've had good fun" with them on board. Phil is such a keen crew, and we enjoyed Wendy's help with photography and the computer.

FAVOURITE RECIPE FOR THIS LEG:

Barbequed tuna

Marinate the tuna in lime juice

Coat tuna in black sesame seeds and barbeque

serve with ratatouille,

potato salad with a light dressing and fresh oregano finely chopped over it.

and salad (including goats cheese, kos lettuce and avocado).

We make use of the hire car - provisioning, some extras for the boat and some more exploring of the island.

Later this afternoon we drag anchor, which you hope will never happen to you. The pilot book does warn of this here because of the weedy bottom. Fortunately, we are on the boat so all is well. Phil happens to call by at the right time again!

Early evening we have drinks with the American couple nearby. They have been traveling the world for 15 years, so are very interesting to talk with.

We can't believe the anchor starts to drag again tonight. Ross always sleeps lightly when there is any risk like this so we deal with it quickly and re-anchor and then have a sleep in.

NAXOS TO PAROS

Naxos

NAXOS TO PAROS

FRIDAY, 11 JULY, 2008

We sail across to Naxos just with the headsail averaging 6 1/2 - 7 kts 173 south. Coming in we see the gateway of the unfinished temple to Apollo (the portarara) high up on the bluff in front of the anchorage. Looking towards the town we see the hilltop with the upper Venetian style architecture, the Kastro where the Venetians lived, and below the white box-like houses, the Bourgos where the Greeks lived.

We are dealing with very busy ports in the summer. Fortunately, we are on the boat when another yacht drags anchor and comes down on us. Three other yachties come over to help sort this out as the owners are ashore for the day. It is all part of coping with the Meltemi in the eastern Mediterranean. These are dry n.westerly winds which blow during the summer and are often quite strong.

The islands "favourite deity is Dionysos, the God of wine and ecstasy". This sets the tone for the town which comes to life at night as people wander through the stone pathed narrow alley ways lined with tavernas, colourful shops and galleries. Again, the bougainvillea is everywhere. We have dinner on the terrace of a locally recommended taverna, Boulamatsis.

SATURDAY, 12 JULY 2008

We hire a motor bike to explore the Tragaea region. This area has spectacular scenery down to the sea with high mountainous slopes, many terraced slopes with olive trees and goats, and unspoiled Greek mountain villages, each with its own individuality, particularly the galleries with art and ceramics. One highlight is the area where marble is being quarried. It would be fascinating to know how they extract these enormous, heavy blocks by cutting it and lifting it out.

We also make a detour and go off the main road down through small, bumpy, narrow lanes through fenced off farms to find an ancient basilica. We enjoy being in the countryside and smelling the freshly baled hay in the paddocks.

Once back at Naxos we head for the beach at Agia Anna, past the famous wind surfing area which looks so colourful.

SUNDAY, 13 JULY 2008

We wake up to high winds again gusting up to 30kts. We are planning to go to Paros which we can see easily 5.3 n.miles away. The agent we spoke with last night, a lovely Greek man who chatted to us over a cup of coffee, confirms the winds should start dying off about midday. This morning Robbie helps me with some computer issues, and I can help her with some physio. They have been busy with guests and are heading off elsewhere after lunch.

The wind does drop off so we set off after lunch. It is disappointing when the winds do come up again to 30kts and to the n.west just as we turn west to come round the northern tip of the island. The seas come up to a 4 metre swell, so we make very slow progress, even with the engine on 1900 revs. and half the mainsail up. Our slowest speed is 6kts. This has been Ross' least enjoyable passage yet.

Once we turn into a s.westerly direction the situation improves and we can sail with the headsail up, to average 6.5kts. We anchor at Paraika on the west coast. Sunset is just beautiful again when we go ashore to wander around the old town and have dinner at the oldest Greek restaurant on the island. The place comes to life as dusk falls. We appreciate the extra hours of light here until about 8.45pm. The climate is idyllic waking up to clear, blue skies every day and having reliably warm evenings. We haven't experienced rain at all in the Med. yet, which is a serious problem here, and why the marinas have restricted use of water.

Paxos has a very relaxed atmosphere and the people here are very friendly.

Paros

MONDAY, 14 JULY 2008

We take a motor bike and cross on the short ferry to Anti-Paros. The waters here are beautiful but not safe to sail through because they have shallow and rocky patches.

Anti-Paro is a very small island with a very attractive port lined with tavernas and it has a great bakery where we have the most delicious apple pastry. There is a lovely sense of space here as we motor about the island with its many grape vines and dry stone walled fences. There is a great deal of new very substantial home building. One of these homes has included its own chapel. We are told that the reason for seeing so many small chapels in our travels is that some people believe if they build their own chapel it will atone for a life time of sins. We see very little stock here, only four cows. There are many small attractive beaches.

Back on Paros island we ride up to Lefkes, set up high in the hills. No cars are permitted in the centre of this town. We are running out of superlatives for these Greek villages and experiences. It is a treat to walk through these alleyways.

SIKINOS TO SANTORINI

SIKINOS TO SANTORINI

MONDAY, 14 JULY 2008

This afternoon we leave for Sikinos. We are cautious here as there are strong currents and many large outcrops of rock. A large ferry went down here in 2000 losing many lives because they hadn't allowed enough for the leeway from the south setting current.

We have a reasonable sail until the wind drops out. We are continually surprised how few boats we see when we are sailing from place to place. Often there isn't another vessel in sight.

We enjoy another lovely Greek experience at Sikinos. We anchor at the mouth of Ormos Scala, one of the smallest ports we have seen. Fortunately it is a calm night. We have dinner up high onshore looking down over the port with the yacht and dinghy in sight. This always means Ross can relax more.

TUESDAY, 15 JULY 2008

Next morning we walk straight up the steep incline for three and a half kls. to the delightful tiny village of Kastro. We take time to do a drawing here and have a cup of tea. Waiting for the bus to go back down we meet a young Greek woman who speaks excellent English. We hope she might come out on the boat with us but she is too busy. As with many people on the islands she spends 6 months a year working in Athens and the 6 summer months at home helping the family with their restaurant business.

Kastro

Soon we motor to Santorini. It is calm without sufficient wind to sail. Here we have no choice but to go to the Vlikadha marina because its too deep to anchor within the caldera, the large crater of the volcano. Its spectacular looking at the white buildings of Thira and Oia from the water and their surrounding landscape, and equally spectacular looking down to the sea from these towns.

Santorini

We are grateful to raft up beside the Mellett's as this small marina is full when we arrive. We have a fun dinner on Free Spirit tonight. They still have Phil's brother, Ian, and his wife Chris on board.

WEDNESDAY, 16 JULY 2008

This morning we drive to the main port, Athinios, at the base of the high cliffs to meet Kerrie and Michael Giles who are arriving from Athens on the slow, overnight ferry. It is exciting to see them coming off this crowded ferry amongst many backpackers looking ready to have a great time. This is a very busy and chaotic place, accentuated by the fact that there isn't much space here at the base of the cliff.

Santorini with Kerrie and Michael

My driving Kerrie back up the steep, never ending S-bends is quite an introduction for her to the Greek Islands. The car keeps stalling at critical times, eg. when we have a large tourist bus waving us on. It has a very sensitive clutch which we confirm when Ross drives it later.

We venture into Thira, the main town. It is wonderful to see this place we have heard so much about with its alluring restaurants, array of jewellery and clothing shops, and galleries. Kerrie is definitely keen to have a retail fix! Of course, I'll have to accompany her. Neither of our husbands are very keen about this, and Ross has to start following up the saga of our cruising permit for Greece which we gave up when we went to Turkey briefly.

We take Kerrie and Michael back to the yacht to settle in. It is like Christmas on board with all the packages they have brought over, especially for Impulsive, and some wine and special champagne.

Tonight we return to Thira to walk down to the small port, Fira Scala, below. We watch the famous sunset at Santorini from here and then take a donkey ride back up. The light on the cliffs shows up their huge array of colours. We enjoy dinner at Rastonis looking over the spectacle of the Caldera of Santorini created by a volcanic explosion in 1650 B.C. In 1956 there was a major earthquake killing most of the people. Most of the houses of the two towns were ruined.

Sunset at Santorini

THURSDAY, 17 JULY 2008

The four of us go back into Thira. Kerrie and I find a cutting edge Internet cafe to have a fresh fruit juice while we organize our emails. Ross, in the meantime, takes two and a half hours to obtain a new cruising permit. The Greeks are sticklers for the correct paper work. Ross has tried many times to do this and it has always been put in the too hard basket, but we have been told they can deal with it in Santerini. The problem now seems to be the time that has now lapsed since we checked out of Greece at Rhodes about a month ago. It is a great relief to be "all legal" again. Michael is busy keeping an eye on all of us, later helping Kerrie with shopping.

From here we drive up to Oia, the village on the northern most tip of the island. This charming place is a delight to walk through, and now we have the difficulty in choosing somewhere for lunch. We finally all agree on a very friendly, family run taverna, with delicious Greek cuisine. It is very hot so we enjoy a light meal, and the view back across the caldera. There is a slight breeze up here.

Oie
Santorini - Old Port

We all vote for dinner on the yacht tonight after a full day. Ross cooks up a great barbeque.

FRIDAY, 18 JULY 2008

We sail through the Caldera. This is a most memorable experience and we are so fortunate to have a calm day.

Sailing through the Caldera

We venture over to Thirasia Island. This island was separated from the main island in 236B.C. We are lucky to have a large buoy to tie up to here. Again, anchoring is difficult because of the depths.

After a late lunch on board we walk up the steep path to the Hora, the cliff top village of Manolas. We make time to have a drawing session here. We only see locals up here. There is one small taverna here to have a drink and take in the view. We are amazed to look down to see another yacht come and raft up next to us on the same buoy. It's fine, and we have to get used to these situations when it's too deep to anchor.

Dinner is at the only taverna available at 8pm. They cook on a grill over the open coals and it is delicious. Meantime, the now full moon is creeping up in the sky as a large orange ball.

FOLEGRANDOS TO HYDRA

FOLEGRANDOS TO HYDRA

SATURDAY, 19 JULY 2008

We have spasmodic sailing in a n.west direction to the very small and rugged island of Folegrandos and anchor on the western side of the island at Angali Beach, in Vathi Bay. It is lovely swimming here.

Hilltop Hora on Foliangros Is.
View from Hora

We catch the bus up the island's steep ridge to the capital of Hora, a beautiful little village but tending to be a bit touristy. We enjoy an evening drink in the town centre where no cars are allowed under the shade of very old trees and watch as many well-dressed people walk by. Tonight they are holding one of their festival music concerts billed as the best available on the island.

Hilltop cafe at Hora (Folegrandos)

We take the bus back down to a restaurant by the water, as recommended by a local, for a very relaxed dinner. Ross is happier here where he can keep an eye on Impulsive.

Folegrandos has been used as a political prison since Roman times up until the C20.

SUNDAY, 20 JULY 2008

This morning we take a dinghy ride to the beach at the neighbouring small cove. Yesterday afternoon we saw endless small ferries taking people (again well-heeled) to and from this beach. It is well worth it, as we have one of our best swims ever. It is such a delight not to be worrying about what might be in the water, eg. sharks, stingrays, jellyfish or stonefish. The water still has a high salt content, so floating is a very relaxing pastime here.

Soon we leave in a n.westerly direction for Poliegos. We go off course so we can enjoy one and a half hours sailing and then motor up into the wind to the anchorage. This is a very secluded little island with a beautiful setting and nothing there but an old ruin. We enjoy the contrast between these quiet places and the busier ones like Santorini.

It takes Ross and Michael some time to put out a strong mooring line (a warp) from the stern. Kerrie and I have time to paint which is a real treat. Ross spoils us and makes a delicious salad nicoise for dinner.

MONDAY, 21 JULY 2008

Sailing past Klima

We start off with a good sail, and then the wind drops out, and we motor in a westerly direction to Milos close to its striking coastline with its post volcanic rocks of stunning shapes and colours. We tie up stern to the dock at Adamas. A Dutch family with two teenage boys pull in alongside us. They are great fun to have as neighbours.

Milos has a high mineral content. It now produces bentonite and perlite.

We ride motorbikes high up to the Plaka, the capitol of the island. It has wonderful views across the Gulf of Milos. We have a drink at "Utopia" to take all this in. Ross is not impressed with the prices here - $35 for 3 beers and a mineral water. This is the same as it was in Santorini - about quadruple the price for everything. We wander through the narrow streets and their whitewashed courtyards, balconies with brightly coloured flowers, old churches and museums. It is also well worth the walk up to the summit, Castro, even though it's hot, to see the views down across the farmlands with their newly baled hay, and out across to the very calm and blue sea. It is also interesting to watch other yachts coming in.

Castro was first inhabited when the island was constantly under pirate attack. Many of the hilltop villages were built for this reason.

We meet Kerrie and Michael for dinner as planned back down the hill at Barkos family restaurant. This is very relaxed, great Greek cuisine and back to sensible prices.

Unfortunately, we come ahead of Kerrie and Michael and don't realize they have had a spill off their bike. Thankfully, they are both alright physically but poor Kerrie is very shaken. We offer to go back to the boat with them but they think a drink, or two, and a good dinner should help.

When we get back into Adamas we can't believe the transformation from a quiet seaside town with not many people about to a place that is really buzzing with people everywhere. The place is lively with music. A yacht not far from us has four talented musicians playing and singing on the back of their boat.

TUESDAY, 22 JULY 2008

The man who delivers our fuel is charming. He has a cup of tea with us and invites us to his station, "farm" and house.

Kerrie bravely comes on the bike again. This isn't easy for her but Michael is taking all care. Our first stop is to our new friend's place. The Greek's are overwhelming with their hospitality. He gives us at least a week's provisions from his veggie garden.

Next we wind our way up a very steep road to Klima. This is built around a small protected cove. The cave-like boathouses have been dug out of soft rock for protection against the strong north winds. Over the years they have been extended, improved and brightly painted and are now used as permanent homes by fishermen and as summer houses for holiday-makers. A fruit and veggie man is there with his ute and scales. We try to buy a cantaloupe which he slices for us to share, but he insists on giving it to us. This is a very efficient way for the locals to shop.

We pass by the old catacombs on our climb back up to Tripiti with its picturesque windmills and its imposing church built in 1880.

We are not so successful in finding the two recommended beaches we look for. We see more of the island though, including farms, market gardens and the mineral plants. On our way back we find a local beach which is lovely for a quick swim and which has many young families there laughing and having fun.

Ross is keen to leave for our next destination, Sifnos, to get there in the light. Kerrie and Michael decide to stay here and have a quiet day or two so Kerrie can have a proper relax before they meet other friends for a week in Italy. We are sorry they won't be with us for the next two days to Hydra but understand. I would do the same. It is lovely to just stay put for a while when you are travelling. So we say good-bye after a wonderful time together, and lots of fun.

FAVOURITE RECIPE:

Shrimps and calamari shasliks cooked on the barbecue (one shrimp one and one calamari one each, cooked separately as the calamari needs a little longer

Serve with : tamarind sauce

wild rice

greens eg. asparagus if available

salad

Ross and I get underway for Sifnos. We were originally going to Seferos but our Dutch neighbours are going to Sifnos and the Melletts are there with Andrew and his partner. They all persuade us this is a good idea.

The island used to have gold and silver mining until C5 B.C., and now has a long tradition of pottery making.

There are views across the port, which are surrounded by high mountains.

Drinks on Free Spirit followed by a delicious dinner in a taverna ashore is a good way to the end the day. We always enjoy the stimulating company of the younger ones.

WEDNESDAY, 23 JULY 2008

Ross and I wake at 4am. as a big swell comes in. We are sure we can't go back to sleep so we get underway. The trip to Hydra will be about 10 hours and we want to make the most of our time there. We both have a sleep on the way. We sail with the headsail only for a while, then with both sails. Unfortunately, the wind drops out and we then have to motor all the way with no wind, and for some time there is a strong swell. Later the wind comes up enough in the right direction to flatten it out and this is very relaxing with the calmer seas.

During this trip we realize we must sort out our timing to be in Rome as planned to fly home (we have booked our flights). We have so enjoyed just relaxing in the Greek Islands and soaking in their culture, beauty and climate it is quite a surprise to find we need to do some planning ahead.

Coming along Hydra's n.east coast is barren. We come into anchor in a small cove, Mandraki.

Tying up stern-to

Mandraki

We are just happily settled when a man swims out to suggest we anchored over lots of old anchors and tyres, and that we should be stern to the rocks. This manoeuvre is difficult here and takes us ages. It seems strange too because several other boats about our size have simply anchored. However, we would never ignore a local's advice, and fouling one's anchor is a problem.

After a refreshing swim we make the short dinghy ride around to Hydra town. It is the only place during this leg of our trip we have visited before and are pleased to see little has changed since 1978! There are more up-market shops and tavernas but little else is different. The small harbour is still filled with yachts and small fishing boats. Donkeys and mules still wait at the waterfront to carry luggage. It is lovely to meander back up from the waterfront through the narrow alley ways lined with jewellery, clothing shops and galleries towards the houses which have red tiled roofs.

Hydra

We return to Mandraki and, after an evening's drawing session from the dinghy, we go to a local taverna for dinner.