ISHOLA ISCHIA & ISOLA VENTOTENE TO ROME

SATURDAY, 6 SEPTEMBER 2008 (Cont).

We head west for 3 n.miles sailing to Isola Ischia in the Flegree group of islands to anchor off the beach outside Porto d'Ischia. This is a very colourful scene with all the beach umbrellas organized in groups of their different colours along the beach. The beach is packed with people lying in the sun, swimming and children just romping having fun.

Late afternoon we take the dinghy inside the port and have a stroll around the town. The port is very attractive, even though it is so busy, and is difficult to get a berth in. We have decided to anchor outside tonight anyway after 2 nights in the marina. It's lovely to have the feeling of space and quiet. We cook a delicious dinner on the boat.

SUNDAY, 7 SEPTEMBER 2008

This is another lovely place to swim off the back of the boat. In fact, we decide to have a relaxing time and stay here another night. Ross listens to the weather report on the HF radio and checks the weather grid on the sea mail on the computer and all looks clear for the next few days to take us through to Rome. We have a day or two spare in our schedule to allow for winds against us.

A motorbike excursion on the island is great fun. It is risky but Ross drives carefully as we strike some Sunday afternoon traffic on the way back. There are several other attractive ports, lush vegetation rising up towards the mountainsides, thermal springs and houses nestled in with their white, rose or Naples yellow washes. Along a major cliff top are some grand mansions. The highlight is Sant'Angelo D'Ischia, a small port on the east side, joined to Ischia by a narrow sandy isthmus. The harbour is at the base of the steep cliff faces. The Roman family we met had recommended this place. It is a gem. We decide to return here with the yacht.

Back at Porto Ischia looking at the other boats we find a large motor cruiser with a couple on their way to Hamilton Island. We are always pleased to see others flying the Australian flag.

We think we are having a simple dinner ashore but find they are still charging high season prices! It is lovely sitting by the harbour, people and boat watching.

MONDAY, 8 SEPTEMBER 2008

We get back around to Sant'Angelo D'Ischia for breakfast anchored just outside the tiny port here. We enjoy some time ashore and then a swim off the boat before leaving in a westerly direction 21 n.miles to Isola Ventotene. The forecast suggests a 16kts wind coming up on the nose by 3pm (and often it is stronger than is forecast), so Ross wants to be there before this change happens.

Anchoring offshore here is difficult but it is very amusing to see Ross fully dressed leaning over the stern swimming board with his goggles and snorkel on looking under the water to find some sandy bottom without too many rocks.

It would have been quite exciting to go into this historic little harbour which was dug out of rock by the Romans. The port was built for the galleys and has several galley sheds also cut out of the rock.

Ventotene has a history of people who were exiled here, including Nero's wife as requested by his then mistress.

We really enjoy this island wandering around in the early evening and later sitting in the busy town square watching all the locals catching up on their news of the day. We have dinner on a terrace overlooking the sea watching the moon coming up with its reflections shining over the calm sea.

Unfortunately, there is a strong swell when we return to Impulsive but we still manage to have a reasonable sleep.
Leaving Ventotene

TUESDAY, 9 SEPTEMBER 2008

With a similar forecast to yesterday we leave in good time to track 35 n.miles just north of west to Isola Ponza. Again, we anchor outside in a small cove opposite a beach. There are other yachts and some large cruisers here. The clear turquoise waters are sensational to swim in here with colourful small blue fish that seem to enjoy the company.
Ponza viewed from the anchorage here

We only have 60 n.miles to go to Rome and excellent weather forecasts so we can have 2 relaxing nights here. Ross takes advantage of these conditions to scrub the hull of the boat. This is not a job to do in a marina with many other boats close by and not the cleanest of waters. The coating the hull had when Impulsive was out of the water in Phuket contains lead (apparently illegal to apply in Australian waters) has kept the hull in very good condition.

We seem to get many small fiddly jobs done without being under pressure for time.

Ponza is a very attractive town with its shop fronts, restaurants, and few hotels and houses set around the harbour. Houses rise up above with their colourful washes of rose, pinks, ochres, white and even blues, set amongst its productive green hills. The local red vine is highly recommended.

Because Ponza is relatively close to Rome it is a popular summer resort and we are advised that prices are extremely high here during July and August and then they drop. We discover the tourists have dropped off but not the costs eg. for dinner.

WEDNESDAY, 10 SEPTEMBER 2008

Today is very relaxed. We even have time to read.

We take a dinghy ride to explore the next few coves to explore the eroded rocks and cliff faces which have been naturally sculptured into fantastic shapes.

We go ashore later and enjoy another explore here and our last delicious (grilled baby calamari) dinner out in the islands. We notice the evenings are closing in much quicker now and there is definitely an edge on the night air.

THURSDAY, 11 SEPTEMBER 2008

We are greeted today by the most beautiful sunrise as we leave at 6am in a west of north direction for Rome. Daybreak is getting later now. Breakfast is interrupted by a visit from dolphins playing at the bow of the boat.

This trip is 60 n.miles and the conditions are flat calm. It's really lovely out here for our last day at sea for sometime.

We have some difficulty finding the marina we are booked into near Fumare Grande River. There are a few language problems and various names used for the same place.
As we come in it is welcoming to see the Henrys waving to us from Sweet Chariot (another Buizon) who we last saw in Larnaca marina in Cyprus. We catch up with their travels over dinner.

We have the next few days ahead to prepare Impulsive to leave her for the next 7 months. What a wonderful wealth of experiences we have had and now we are excited to be going home.

Favourite appetizer recipe this leg:

small zucchini thinly sliced
small eggplant, thinly sliced and allow to rest with a sprinkling of salt
2.5 strips of red peppers

Lightly pan fry (spray pan lightly with oil) above until tender, then set aside to cool on towelling.

On individual plates arrange the following to display their colours to advantage
- some of the above with freshly chopped Italian parsley and ground pepper; some fresh anchovy fillets in a small kos lettuce leaf, and a small serve of caprese salad each ie. sliced tomato with bocciccini cheese and fresh basil.