WEDNESDAY, 3 SEPTEMBER 2008
Anchorage s.e. coast of Capri
We up anchor early to come round to the n.west side of Capri to see its famous Blue Grotto before the crowds arrive. We are unable to find it looking from the yacht, even though it is marked on the chart but shows as slightly off the coast. We continue on further to anchor outside Marina Grande. A berth here can cost $A360 per night, so we are delighted to still have a calm weather forecast so we can anchor outside.
We find an excursion boat back to the Blue grotto. The entrance to this is so small and low we have to lie down flat in the small row-boat to enter it, so no wonder we were unable to find the opening.
The colours in here with the rays of sunlight refracting through them with such clarity range from sky blue through to turquoise.
Strangely, we enjoyed the trip around the island seeing other grottos and landmarks, and some homes of the rich and famous, eg. Sophia Loren and Georgio Armani.
Late afternoon we try to organize a scooter to do some exploring and to book at a recommended restaurant up in Capri town. Ross has asked around and decides that the scooter hire is over the top here. It proves to be a good decision. We take a taxi ride up to the main town and quickly see you are taking your life in your own hands to tackle the narrow, winding streets and the Italian drivers on a bike. The bikes cannot be ridden through the pedestrian streets of the town down the cobbled narrow streets with every possible designer shop known. (Ross doesn't enjoy shopping but I am very spoilt here - actually my only clothes shopping for this leg of the trip). We enjoy the long walk along the mountainside by many grand mansions and hotels, and their gardens, looking for this particular place. We find Villa Brunelli perched up high and looking over the most spectacular views down to the sea and some of the coves on the south side of the island, and are able to secure a table for later with this view.
We find a stair route back down to the port to take the dinghy back to Impulsive. Later we take the funicular back up to Capri town to go to dinner at Brunellis, which is a great experience, and delicious.
THURSDAY, 4 SEPTEMBER 2008
It is impressive that a rubbish collector comes past the boat each morning, as in Positano.
We try another form of transport this morning as we set off in a bus for Anacarpri, another mountain top town.
Villa San Michele up here is an original historic villa with the most breath taking views of Capri, the Sorrento peninsular and the Bay of Naples. Between 1896 and 1907 it was the home of its Swedish creator, court physician, and writer Axel Munthe. The garden, with its long, curved pergola is stunning and a joy to walk through.
Another bus trip takes us to the Faro (lighthouse) where we begin a coastal walk to the 4 fortresses. This is a 3 hour walk and is punctuated along the way with beautiful tiles depicting the local flora, fauna and fish with illustrations and descriptions. The walk itself has amazing views and highlights the colours of the seas here. The walk gives you a better idea of Capri rather than just remembering it for all its tourist shops.
This takes us to the Blue Grotto where we catch a bus back to the port. We admire the bus drivers on how they manage and judge passing other vehicles on roads obviously not built for buses. They are all polite to one another and seem to know who should give way to whom.
We have had a wonderful time in Capri after expecting it to be very busy and glitzy. In contrast to this it has been very manageable.
The next two islands we visit in the Bay of Naples have been recommended by the Roman family we met recently at Cape Palinuro. Mid-afternoon we leave for Procida, the first of these. It is a very attractive, small harbour and marina at Chiaiolella. This is our first marina stop for 12 days and decide to go in because it is a safe place to leave Impulsive safely to do a proposed day trip tomorrow, and she needs a good wash down with fresh water. The cost is rather exorbitant but well worth it. There isn't much here but the long beach is very popular for holidaymakers. There is a very friendly atmosphere here.
Stuffed zucchini flowers are popular with the local cuisine here. They are such a treat in Australia it is amazing to find they sold at street stalls in parts of Italy.
FRIDAY, 5 SEPTEMBER 2008
We catch an early bus to the port of Procida. We like this noisy trip across the island, rattling along the narrow, winding, cobbled streets past the pastel houses. Fortunately, we just make it in time to take the hydrofoil to Naples. We decide it is easier to do this to explore Naples and Pompeii than bring the boat to Naples which we are warned is very busy.
After arriving in Naples we happen upon a guide/ driver to take us to Pompeii. This is an excellent option as we were walking to the train station to get to Pompeii. It will be a long day anyway and this will make it more manageable. We are at Pompeii before 9am. so beat the heat and the crowds.
Pompeii
Pompeii, rising on a plateau of Vesuvian lava, is an ancient city dating from the end of C7 and so well preserved since the eruption of Vesuvius in 79A.D. There is so much to see with its architecture, sculptures, paintings and mosaics.
It is very moving to think of all the lives lost here, especially when you see a few plaster casts of the victims of the eruption.
Our guide drives us to see the major landmarks in Naples so we can find our own way back after lunch at a restaurant he recommends looking over the waterfront near the old castle. We try a Nepalese pizza, as this is where pizzas originated. It is extra good, and well washed down with a glass of the local white wine.
The old castle - Naples
Our guide explains how expensive real estate is in Naples. For young married couples both need to work just to rent a 2 bedroom apartment. He surprises us when he says he is 74 (he seems much younger), retired and doing this job to boost his pension. He finds out which cruises are coming in each day and goes down to meet them to find his clientele. He explains we are lucky as there are only 2 cruisers due in today. Yesterday there were 5 and the whole place, including Pompeii, were very crowded.
We have been warned to watch for pickpockets, especially in Naples. We take precautions but don't experience any problems.
This afternoon we wander for several hours to see the Plazza Del Plebiscito with the palace and the Palazzo Reale, the Chiaia and Santa Lucia areas with their up-market shops, and Spaccanapoli area, ie. the old town and student areas.
The return trip on the ferry includes a view of the Q.E. 2.
We spend time at Port Procida when we get back. It is a lovely small town with its faded, pastel coloured houses, and has an attractive, popular, small pebbled beach nearby where we enjoy a quiet relax as the sun is going down. 
Port Procida
We have a simple dinner looking over the port before we catch the bus back to Impulsive. This trip is a real local scene. We are all packed into this small bus like sardines and every time the bus stops and starts we all lurch forwards and back. Every time it comes to a stop people have to get out to let people off. The driver copes with all this as well as managing the driving in the traffic and the narrow streets.
Port ProcidaSATURDAY, 6 SEPTEMBER 2008
Our run/walk this morning takes us across the footbridge to Isola Vivara. This crosses the bay of Vivara which is one of the old volcanic craters of the island. This island is a nature reserve where birds are protected.
Footbridge to Isola Vivara
Now we head towards the largest island in the Gulf of Naples.
