We leave early with Phil and Wendy for a day trip to Ephesus (Turkey). It is less than a mile across to Turkey from Samos at its narrowest strait.

The ruins of the ancient Ionian Greek city Ephesus are in western Turkey. It is the site of the Temple of Artemis (one of the 7 ancient wonders of the world). it is easy to see the Roman influence here. Also the ancient plumbing was incredible for its time.

It was an early seat of Christianity and very influenced by St. Paul. The letter of St.Paul in the Bible was directed to the residents of the city. We see the house Paul lived in here. This visit really brings to life a great deal of what we learned about these times.
The Library

We have some free time to explore Kusadasi, including a lecture on Turkish carpets, before returning on the ferry to Samos. It is a long day, but fascinating.


Our U.S. yachting friends are celebrating Independence Day.

The four of us set out on what turns out to be one of our best bike rides ever. Phil and Wendy
Our first stop is the Evapalinos tunnel built in 524B.C. when there was a shortage of water. Then after a short distance on the main road we branch off to a minor road along the coast to Psili Amos, a sand beach where we swim in beautiful waters looking over to the mountains of Turkey only one mile away. From here we pass onto a very rugged road with spectacular scenery. Posidonio is a small fishing village with a pebbled beach. All these places are delightfully quiet. This is where the eastern coast ends.

Our final stop is at Kerveli Bay. The beach here is irresistible so we have another swim. No photos are permitted in this military area (we can see no evidence of this).

Early afternoon we head out on Impulsive to Maratha Kambos, about 18n.miles away. This takes several hours as we are slogging straight into it. Photos are not permitted in this military area either, but some tourism is opening up. We tie up stern-to next to a local gulet. It is quiet here and has mostly local holiday makers. There are several waterfront tavernas to choose from for dinner.
Maratha Kambos


We have an unusual start to the day. The four of us spend some time sketching. It's a lovely thing to do, especially as it helps you to remember a place when you look at the detail more closely.

After a swim Phil and Wendy are offered a shower by one of the local women. What a special experience!

We soon make way further west with winds gusting up to 30kts and a boat speed of up to 7.5kts. The boat is travelling well and we have a great sail for one and a half hours. The scenery is dramatic with the high mountains following the length of the mountains. We understand why the island is called Samos, meaning high. There are villages perched high up and many dry stone walls. The labour involved in building these must have been mammoth.

What a joy to come into another small village at Fournoi with its white washed houses trimmed with blue and some ochre, cobbled narrow streets, waterfront tavernas, and many small well painted fishing boats. The church is perched high up (we wonder how the elderly cope to get there), and it is surrounded by high mountains. This area has many small coves nearby which offer lovely beaches.
Artists at Fournoi

Church at the top of the hill
View looking down to Fornoi

After a drawing session, a swim and a walk up to the church we take a dinghy trip over to Nisis Fimaina (eastern side of the island). This is a tiny fishing village built into the side of the mountain. We see no other tourists here.

Lunch is on board, followed by another dinghy trip around to a well shaded beach just south of the port. This is a very small place with only a few buildings, including a taverna with lots of character and marvellous views.

Tonight we have dinner on board watching the fishermen coming and going and people walking along the waterfront.



We're back on Impulsive in Cyprus
There are workmen everywhere
Mark co-ordinates the project
The apprentice does his fair share

But there's time for a beer at the end of the day
Here,Keo's the local drop
The Black Turtle for Susie's birthday
Has zorba dancing non-stop

The marina can't give us a permanent berth
The place needs resurrection
But our move to the most remote pontoon
Talks the customs man out of inspection

At last we're ready and set off for Rhodes
But our level of confidence drops
When first the radar fails again
And then the engine stops

When we finally reach the old Rhodes port
It's dawn and we're ready to slump
But we're feeling quite pleased with our plumbing job
To by-pass the sea water pump

We arrive at Rhodos just before
Five grandchildren land for some sport
We enjoy catching up and spending some time
At the nearby Sunwing Resort

There's a pool for Lucinda and Lily
And one for Augusta and Anna
There are crabs in the rocks for Lachlan to hunt
And staff with the friendliest manner

Then Scott and Jeanette take Impulsive out
For a test sail down the coast
And Scott deposits our new crew on board
Who is going to enjoy this the most?

JUNE 2008