FOLEGRANDOS TO HYDRA

FOLEGRANDOS TO HYDRA

SATURDAY, 19 JULY 2008

We have spasmodic sailing in a n.west direction to the very small and rugged island of Folegrandos and anchor on the western side of the island at Angali Beach, in Vathi Bay. It is lovely swimming here.

Hilltop Hora on Foliangros Is.
View from Hora

We catch the bus up the island's steep ridge to the capital of Hora, a beautiful little village but tending to be a bit touristy. We enjoy an evening drink in the town centre where no cars are allowed under the shade of very old trees and watch as many well-dressed people walk by. Tonight they are holding one of their festival music concerts billed as the best available on the island.

Hilltop cafe at Hora (Folegrandos)

We take the bus back down to a restaurant by the water, as recommended by a local, for a very relaxed dinner. Ross is happier here where he can keep an eye on Impulsive.

Folegrandos has been used as a political prison since Roman times up until the C20.

SUNDAY, 20 JULY 2008

This morning we take a dinghy ride to the beach at the neighbouring small cove. Yesterday afternoon we saw endless small ferries taking people (again well-heeled) to and from this beach. It is well worth it, as we have one of our best swims ever. It is such a delight not to be worrying about what might be in the water, eg. sharks, stingrays, jellyfish or stonefish. The water still has a high salt content, so floating is a very relaxing pastime here.

Soon we leave in a n.westerly direction for Poliegos. We go off course so we can enjoy one and a half hours sailing and then motor up into the wind to the anchorage. This is a very secluded little island with a beautiful setting and nothing there but an old ruin. We enjoy the contrast between these quiet places and the busier ones like Santorini.

It takes Ross and Michael some time to put out a strong mooring line (a warp) from the stern. Kerrie and I have time to paint which is a real treat. Ross spoils us and makes a delicious salad nicoise for dinner.

MONDAY, 21 JULY 2008

Sailing past Klima

We start off with a good sail, and then the wind drops out, and we motor in a westerly direction to Milos close to its striking coastline with its post volcanic rocks of stunning shapes and colours. We tie up stern to the dock at Adamas. A Dutch family with two teenage boys pull in alongside us. They are great fun to have as neighbours.

Milos has a high mineral content. It now produces bentonite and perlite.

We ride motorbikes high up to the Plaka, the capitol of the island. It has wonderful views across the Gulf of Milos. We have a drink at "Utopia" to take all this in. Ross is not impressed with the prices here - $35 for 3 beers and a mineral water. This is the same as it was in Santorini - about quadruple the price for everything. We wander through the narrow streets and their whitewashed courtyards, balconies with brightly coloured flowers, old churches and museums. It is also well worth the walk up to the summit, Castro, even though it's hot, to see the views down across the farmlands with their newly baled hay, and out across to the very calm and blue sea. It is also interesting to watch other yachts coming in.

Castro was first inhabited when the island was constantly under pirate attack. Many of the hilltop villages were built for this reason.

We meet Kerrie and Michael for dinner as planned back down the hill at Barkos family restaurant. This is very relaxed, great Greek cuisine and back to sensible prices.

Unfortunately, we come ahead of Kerrie and Michael and don't realize they have had a spill off their bike. Thankfully, they are both alright physically but poor Kerrie is very shaken. We offer to go back to the boat with them but they think a drink, or two, and a good dinner should help.

When we get back into Adamas we can't believe the transformation from a quiet seaside town with not many people about to a place that is really buzzing with people everywhere. The place is lively with music. A yacht not far from us has four talented musicians playing and singing on the back of their boat.

TUESDAY, 22 JULY 2008

The man who delivers our fuel is charming. He has a cup of tea with us and invites us to his station, "farm" and house.

Kerrie bravely comes on the bike again. This isn't easy for her but Michael is taking all care. Our first stop is to our new friend's place. The Greek's are overwhelming with their hospitality. He gives us at least a week's provisions from his veggie garden.

Next we wind our way up a very steep road to Klima. This is built around a small protected cove. The cave-like boathouses have been dug out of soft rock for protection against the strong north winds. Over the years they have been extended, improved and brightly painted and are now used as permanent homes by fishermen and as summer houses for holiday-makers. A fruit and veggie man is there with his ute and scales. We try to buy a cantaloupe which he slices for us to share, but he insists on giving it to us. This is a very efficient way for the locals to shop.

We pass by the old catacombs on our climb back up to Tripiti with its picturesque windmills and its imposing church built in 1880.

We are not so successful in finding the two recommended beaches we look for. We see more of the island though, including farms, market gardens and the mineral plants. On our way back we find a local beach which is lovely for a quick swim and which has many young families there laughing and having fun.

Ross is keen to leave for our next destination, Sifnos, to get there in the light. Kerrie and Michael decide to stay here and have a quiet day or two so Kerrie can have a proper relax before they meet other friends for a week in Italy. We are sorry they won't be with us for the next two days to Hydra but understand. I would do the same. It is lovely to just stay put for a while when you are travelling. So we say good-bye after a wonderful time together, and lots of fun.

FAVOURITE RECIPE:

Shrimps and calamari shasliks cooked on the barbecue (one shrimp one and one calamari one each, cooked separately as the calamari needs a little longer

Serve with : tamarind sauce

wild rice

greens eg. asparagus if available

salad

Ross and I get underway for Sifnos. We were originally going to Seferos but our Dutch neighbours are going to Sifnos and the Melletts are there with Andrew and his partner. They all persuade us this is a good idea.

The island used to have gold and silver mining until C5 B.C., and now has a long tradition of pottery making.

There are views across the port, which are surrounded by high mountains.

Drinks on Free Spirit followed by a delicious dinner in a taverna ashore is a good way to the end the day. We always enjoy the stimulating company of the younger ones.

WEDNESDAY, 23 JULY 2008

Ross and I wake at 4am. as a big swell comes in. We are sure we can't go back to sleep so we get underway. The trip to Hydra will be about 10 hours and we want to make the most of our time there. We both have a sleep on the way. We sail with the headsail only for a while, then with both sails. Unfortunately, the wind drops out and we then have to motor all the way with no wind, and for some time there is a strong swell. Later the wind comes up enough in the right direction to flatten it out and this is very relaxing with the calmer seas.

During this trip we realize we must sort out our timing to be in Rome as planned to fly home (we have booked our flights). We have so enjoyed just relaxing in the Greek Islands and soaking in their culture, beauty and climate it is quite a surprise to find we need to do some planning ahead.

Coming along Hydra's n.east coast is barren. We come into anchor in a small cove, Mandraki.

Tying up stern-to

Mandraki

We are just happily settled when a man swims out to suggest we anchored over lots of old anchors and tyres, and that we should be stern to the rocks. This manoeuvre is difficult here and takes us ages. It seems strange too because several other boats about our size have simply anchored. However, we would never ignore a local's advice, and fouling one's anchor is a problem.

After a refreshing swim we make the short dinghy ride around to Hydra town. It is the only place during this leg of our trip we have visited before and are pleased to see little has changed since 1978! There are more up-market shops and tavernas but little else is different. The small harbour is still filled with yachts and small fishing boats. Donkeys and mules still wait at the waterfront to carry luggage. It is lovely to meander back up from the waterfront through the narrow alley ways lined with jewellery, clothing shops and galleries towards the houses which have red tiled roofs.

Hydra

We return to Mandraki and, after an evening's drawing session from the dinghy, we go to a local taverna for dinner.