NAXOS TO PAROS


Naxos
NAXOS TO PAROS

FRIDAY, 11 JULY, 2008

We sail across to Naxos just with the headsail averaging 6 1/2 - 7 kts 173 south. Coming in we see the gateway of the unfinished temple to Apollo (the portarara) high up on the bluff in front of the anchorage. Looking towards the town we see the hilltop with the upper Venetian style architecture, the Kastro where the Venetians lived, and below the white box-like houses, the Bourgos where the Greeks lived.

We are dealing with very busy ports in the summer. Fortunately, we are on the boat when another yacht drags anchor and comes down on us. Three other yachties come over to help sort this out as the owners are ashore for the day. It is all part of coping with the Meltemi in the eastern Mediterranean. These are dry n.westerly winds which blow during the summer and are often quite strong.

The islands "favourite deity is Dionysos, the God of wine and ecstasy". This sets the tone for the town which comes to life at night as people wander through the stone pathed narrow alley ways lined with tavernas, colourful shops and galleries. Again, the bougainvillea is everywhere. We have dinner on the terrace of a locally recommended taverna, Boulamatsis.

SATURDAY, 12 JULY 2008

We hire a motor bike to explore the Tragaea region. This area has spectacular scenery down to the sea with high mountainous slopes, many terraced slopes with olive trees and goats, and unspoiled Greek mountain villages, each with its own individuality, particularly the galleries with art and ceramics. One highlight is the area where marble is being quarried. It would be fascinating to know how they extract these enormous, heavy blocks by cutting it and lifting it out.

We also make a detour and go off the main road down through small, bumpy, narrow lanes through fenced off farms to find an ancient basilica. We enjoy being in the countryside and smelling the freshly baled hay in the paddocks.

Once back at Naxos we head for the beach at Agia Anna, past the famous wind surfing area which looks so colourful.

SUNDAY, 13 JULY 2008

We wake up to high winds again gusting up to 30kts. We are planning to go to Paros which we can see easily 5.3 n.miles away. The agent we spoke with last night, a lovely Greek man who chatted to us over a cup of coffee, confirms the winds should start dying off about midday. This morning Robbie helps me with some computer issues, and I can help her with some physio. They have been busy with guests and are heading off elsewhere after lunch.

The wind does drop off so we set off after lunch. It is disappointing when the winds do come up again to 30kts and to the n.west just as we turn west to come round the northern tip of the island. The seas come up to a 4 metre swell, so we make very slow progress, even with the engine on 1900 revs. and half the mainsail up. Our slowest speed is 6kts. This has been Ross' least enjoyable passage yet.

Once we turn into a s.westerly direction the situation improves and we can sail with the headsail up, to average 6.5kts. We anchor at Paraika on the west coast. Sunset is just beautiful again when we go ashore to wander around the old town and have dinner at the oldest Greek restaurant on the island. The place comes to life as dusk falls. We appreciate the extra hours of light here until about 8.45pm. The climate is idyllic waking up to clear, blue skies every day and having reliably warm evenings. We haven't experienced rain at all in the Med. yet, which is a serious problem here, and why the marinas have restricted use of water.

Paxos has a very relaxed atmosphere and the people here are very friendly.
Paros

MONDAY, 14 JULY 2008

We take a motor bike and cross on the short ferry to Anti-Paros. The waters here are beautiful but not safe to sail through because they have shallow and rocky patches.

Anti-Paro is a very small island with a very attractive port lined with tavernas and it has a great bakery where we have the most delicious apple pastry. There is a lovely sense of space here as we motor about the island with its many grape vines and dry stone walled fences. There is a great deal of new very substantial home building. One of these homes has included its own chapel. We are told that the reason for seeing so many small chapels in our travels is that some people believe if they build their own chapel it will atone for a life time of sins. We see very little stock here, only four cows. There are many small attractive beaches.

Back on Paros island we ride up to Lefkes, set up high in the hills. No cars are permitted in the centre of this town. We are running out of superlatives for these Greek villages and experiences. It is a treat to walk through these alleyways.