SIKINOS TO SANTORINI
MONDAY, 14 JULY 2008
This afternoon we leave for Sikinos. We are cautious here as there are strong currents and many large outcrops of rock. A large ferry went down here in 2000 losing many lives because they hadn't allowed enough for the leeway from the south setting current.
We have a reasonable sail until the wind drops out. We are continually surprised how few boats we see when we are sailing from place to place. Often there isn't another vessel in sight.
We enjoy another lovely Greek experience at Sikinos. We anchor at the mouth of Ormos Scala, one of the smallest ports we have seen. Fortunately it is a calm night. We have dinner up high onshore looking down over the port with the yacht and dinghy in sight. This always means Ross can relax more.
TUESDAY, 15 JULY 2008
Next morning we walk straight up the steep incline for three and a half kls. to the delightful tiny village of Kastro. We take time to do a drawing here and have a cup of tea. Waiting for the bus to go back down we meet a young Greek woman who speaks excellent English. We hope she might come out on the boat with us but she is too busy. As with many people on the islands she spends 6 months a year working in Athens and the 6 summer months at home helping the family with their restaurant business.
Kastro
Soon we motor to Santorini. It is calm without sufficient wind to sail. Here we have no choice but to go to the Vlikadha marina because its too deep to anchor within the caldera, the large crater of the volcano. Its spectacular looking at the white buildings of Thira and Oia from the water and their surrounding landscape, and equally spectacular looking down to the sea from these towns.
Santorini
We are grateful to raft up beside the Mellett's as this small marina is full when we arrive. We have a fun dinner on Free Spirit tonight. They still have Phil's brother, Ian, and his wife Chris on board.
WEDNESDAY, 16 JULY 2008
This morning we drive to the main port, Athinios, at the base of the high cliffs to meet Kerrie and Michael Giles who are arriving from Athens on the slow, overnight ferry. It is exciting to see them coming off this crowded ferry amongst many backpackers looking ready to have a great time. This is a very busy and chaotic place, accentuated by the fact that there isn't much space here at the base of the cliff.
Santorini with Kerrie and Michael
My driving Kerrie back up the steep, never ending S-bends is quite an introduction for her to the Greek Islands. The car keeps stalling at critical times, eg. when we have a large tourist bus waving us on. It has a very sensitive clutch which we confirm when Ross drives it later.
We venture into Thira, the main town. It is wonderful to see this place we have heard so much about with its alluring restaurants, array of jewellery and clothing shops, and galleries. Kerrie is definitely keen to have a retail fix! Of course, I'll have to accompany her. Neither of our husbands are very keen about this, and Ross has to start following up the saga of our cruising permit for Greece which we gave up when we went to Turkey briefly.
We take Kerrie and Michael back to the yacht to settle in. It is like Christmas on board with all the packages they have brought over, especially for Impulsive, and some wine and special champagne.
Tonight we return to Thira to walk down to the small port, Fira Scala, below. We watch the famous sunset at Santorini from here and then take a donkey ride back up. The light on the cliffs shows up their huge array of colours. We enjoy dinner at Rastonis looking over the spectacle of the Caldera of Santorini created by a volcanic explosion in 1650 B.C. In 1956 there was a major earthquake killing most of the people. Most of the houses of the two towns were ruined.
Sunset at Santorini
THURSDAY, 17 JULY 2008
The four of us go back into Thira. Kerrie and I find a cutting edge Internet cafe to have a fresh fruit juice while we organize our emails. Ross, in the meantime, takes two and a half hours to obtain a new cruising permit. The Greeks are sticklers for the correct paper work. Ross has tried many times to do this and it has always been put in the too hard basket, but we have been told they can deal with it in Santerini. The problem now seems to be the time that has now lapsed since we checked out of Greece at Rhodes about a month ago. It is a great relief to be "all legal" again. Michael is busy keeping an eye on all of us, later helping Kerrie with shopping.
From here we drive up to Oia, the village on the northern most tip of the island. This charming place is a delight to walk through, and now we have the difficulty in choosing somewhere for lunch. We finally all agree on a very friendly, family run taverna, with delicious Greek cuisine. It is very hot so we enjoy a light meal, and the view back across the caldera. There is a slight breeze up here.
Oie
Santorini - Old Port
Santorini - Old Port
We all vote for dinner on the yacht tonight after a full day. Ross cooks up a great barbeque.
FRIDAY, 18 JULY 2008
We sail through the Caldera. This is a most memorable experience and we are so fortunate to have a calm day.
Sailing through the Caldera
We venture over to Thirasia Island. This island was separated from the main island in 236B.C. We are lucky to have a large buoy to tie up to here. Again, anchoring is difficult because of the depths.
After a late lunch on board we walk up the steep path to the Hora, the cliff top village of Manolas. We make time to have a drawing session here. We only see locals up here. There is one small taverna here to have a drink and take in the view. We are amazed to look down to see another yacht come and raft up next to us on the same buoy. It's fine, and we have to get used to these situations when it's too deep to anchor.
Dinner is at the only taverna available at 8pm. They cook on a grill over the open coals and it is delicious. Meantime, the now full moon is creeping up in the sky as a large orange ball.
