SICILY - PART IV Trapani, Isola del Femmine, Palermo, Cefalu

SICILY - PART IV

SUNDAY, 17 AUGUST 2008

We start the day with the repeat of yesterday's exercise programme. After an excellent sleep last night we are feeling very fit and well.

We have a wonderful sail averaging 7kts across to the coast to Trapani. This makes the skipper particularly happy. We pass by Isole Formicaone one of 2 flat islets, which has a tunny factory on it which looks as though it is built on the sea.

Isole Formicaone

Both the yacht club and the marina are fully booked for the next couple of days, so we are pleased to have Hermut's advice to use the relatively new buoys near the yacht club. This is a great place to be and only a short dinghy ride to shore. They are also free. The marinas at this time of the year are extremely expensive.

It is a chilling sight coming in to see a hydrofoil has driven up onto the groyne near the starboard marker. Thankfully, no one was killed, which amazes us when we look at it. We have been told the driver was drunk, but this is probably a rumour. Also we are told the drivers are paid now per trip so they come in and out of these harbours at high speed to make as many trips as possible.

Trapani is not busy and we really enjoy wandering through the lovely old town. We had planned to eat on the boat tonight but the atmosphere is very relaxed here, and it is such an attractive place with its old baroque palazzi, beautifully paved and elegant streets, and with the attraction of an outdoor karaoke session later in a small concert square, we stay ashore. There are several remarkable churches and we are attracted to go inside by their wonderful singing and music. This is more modern than usual and must help to encourage the larger congregations that are there.

For dinner we both try a trapani local dish, pasta alla Trapanese, a pasta of hand twirled pasta, called busiate, with a pesto of garlic, crushed almonds, small tomatoes and basil. This is just delicious and is accompanied by a local red wine.

The two main artists at the concert square have wonderful voices and it is happens to be a full moon. Our best entertainment is a gorgeous little girl, about 3 1/2, who is full of the joys of life and is in full swing with the music and singing. It makes us more conscious of how much we are looking forward to seeing our grandchildren again and having fun with them.

We have been told that this weekend is the end of the height of the season. Also, just suddenly the last few nights have been noticeably cooler - we need a sheet over us.

MONDAY, 18 AUGUST 2008

Today we explore nearby on a motorbike. We zig-zag up the steep mountain near the cable car route to Erice with its views below of the typical Sicilian landscape and the surrounding blue seas.

Views over Erice

It is a lovely place to wander through the cobbled streets, seeing the castle and several impressive churches, including one with an exhibition of wax figures made by nuns during C16. We have glimpses into the inner courtyards of some of the houses, and inside the homes themselves. Many have been tastefully renovated.

Trattoria Dei serve us a local traditional lunch. Prima course is aubergine stuffed with slices of ricotta cheese and topped with homemade tomato sauce with lashings of garlic, and a slice of Mozarella cheese. Seconda course is busiate served with prawns, crushed almonds etc. Ross is enjoying the local Biria Moretti. We have been looking forward to Italian food and we certainly are enjoying it. The waistline will need attention at a later date. Fortunately we both lose weight when we are sailing, so that should solve the problem.

Then we navigate our way back down the mountain and further down the coast south of Trapani. From here we catch a small ferry which wends its way through a canal cut through the flat salt pans, passing the old windmills and over the old Phoenician road (only 1 m. below the sea here) which connects the island to the mainland. On this Panteleo Is. is Mozia of ancient times, situated similarly to many other Phoenician settlements on a small island near the coast surrounded by shallow water, so it was easy to defend and gave a safe anchorage for its ships. It was founded in C8 B.C.

Modise - the old settlement

The bike trip itself is mainly through countryside and small towns. It has been a great day but perhaps a bit much to tackle on a bike. Ross drives very safely but we worry about other drivers on the road.

Robbie and Phil have arrived in Trapani ready to meet Sam on Friday. Ross manages to secure a booking over the phone with his little Italian in a restaurant we found last night in the Jewish quarter. It was difficult to find and it was still closed when we arrived there at 7pm. We decided to try to come here the following night, especially when we read a small label naming it no.1 Italian restaurant 2007.

This trattoria has a humble frontage and has the very appealing wine bar next door. The cuisine certainly lives up to its reputation. The local red wine is also very good. It is a lovely, balmy night to stroll back through the old part of town which is still lively with some music and groups of young people.

TUESDAY, 19 AUGUST 2008

We are sorry to be missing Sam and Andrew Mellett but need to continue on with our schedule. We track further north and then east for several n. miles to Scopello. The coastline along here is very attractive with lots of greenery, dramatic rocks and cliff faces, and interest, eg another disused tunny factory and many small boats hugging the coast.

Scopello is referred to as "one of the most idyllic coves of Sicily". Unfortunately, we can only stop here briefly as the wind comes up and we are unprotected with an accompanying 1m. swell. The weather report is very wrong today, so after a brief swim we pull up the anchor and move on.

Scopola

The skipper is not happy as we bash into the waves with up to 30kts. of wind against us. We track across the bay to Terrasini with both sails up and just a few degrees off course to steady the boat. Mooring in here is the most difficult time we have experienced doing this, with a stern to tie-up. We thought the guys helping suggested tying up along side the quay which we managed easily, but they thought we needed fuel. It is obviously the fuel dock so we have to move. It is a small port with not much room for manoeuvring Impulsive. There is still a lot of wind and the boat is being pushed down towards the next boat. Once tied up we are pleased we can manage this situation reasonably competently now. It can be quite nerve wracking. The local port control men are very helpful as well, as all the Italians have been. It would help if our Italian was better but they always get their meaning across eventually, especially with their gesticulations.

Terrasini is busy with holidaymakers, including a lot of young people. There is nothing special here, but we are pleased to be here with little damage to the boat. Because of the light weather report Ross had the full mainsail up this afternoon and, at some stage, one of the batons came loose in the sail. We will have to wait until the wind drops out to put the sail up and check if there is a problem.

WEDNESDAY, 20 AUGUST 2008

There is no wind early this morning so we put the sail up for inspection. Firstly, the topping lift is fine and, secondly, one baton is broken but with no damage to the mainsail, so all is well.

The weather forecast is the same as for yesterday so we leave early for Isola Delle Femmine Marine, a small nature reserve island around the n.west cape of Sicily. This is a relatively short distance and we should get there before the wind comes up. A local port control officer led Ross to believe it is going to be the same as yesterday.

Isola del Femmine

We have a relaxation day moored on a buoy at the tiny Isola delle Femmine. This nature reserve proves to be very popular during the day with a couple of yachts and many smart run-abouts fully occupying the other buoys all day. The latter seem to be the latest craze here. People can get to many beautiful places here easily and quickly and enjoy a day swimming and relaxing in the sun. It’s lovely to see the children have such a great time, and they look so healthy with the sun glistening on their tanned, wet skin.

We follow-up on jobs on the boat, have several swims and later try our hand at taking up Warren's suggestion of washing our sketches with watercolours. This is great fun and certainly brings the subjects more to life.

A walk around the island at sunset is spectacular.

THURSDAY, 21 AUGUST 2008

We motor in really calm conditions to Palermo, the capital of Sicily. The coastline is rugged, mountainous and with some greenery. There are attractive small towns by the sea scattered all along.

Palermo Marina

The marina guys here are particularly friendly and helpful. They organize an electrician and translator to come within the hour. They discover salt has got into the winch operations causing problems with the mainsail furling system, so service it and have it organized quickly.

The other issue is with the tri-colour and anchor lights. We are disappointed when Ross goes up to the top of the mast - the connection which was re-fitted only 2 years ago is deteriorating without enough protection. The electricians return in the morning but say we must replace the part. We spend time waiting for them only to find they say the part is not available in Italy, and we will have to get one sent from Australia.

We walk about Palermo to get our bearings.

Postage seems to be a real issue in Sicily. We are trying to post our postcards to the grandchildren. We see many red post boxes but they are all closed and not operating. After asking several people we find we have the same reply - we must go to the post office. We walk some distance to find it and cannot believe that it has no post boxes outside and it is closed. Fortunately the marina office can post them for us because we have a supply of Italian stamps. Our previous incidence with postage was at Taormina. We tried to post our weekly postcards to the children in Tabbachis, as we were used to in the Greek islands. We soon learned we had to go to the post office. This was a very long walk, it was hot and when we finally found it there were endless queues - it was pension pay day! That's why we now have a supply of stamps.

We cross the Quattro Canti, the centre of the city, with its curved facades to make a circle. We sit in the baroque style Chiesa di San Giuseppe dei Teatini and take in the peace there. This area has many impressive churches and mansions. We wander over to the historic C14 Piazza Marina where the headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition once were beside the tranquil Garibaldi gardens. There are now many restaurants in this area and we enjoyed dinner under the 150 year old Ficus Benjamin tree. On Scott's advice Ross enjoys a Sicilian pizza.

FRIDAY, 22 AUGUST 2008

We walk to the market (Mercato della Vuccirla) very early. It is always good to stock up on the fresh local produce. Ross also finds several gadgets for the yacht that he has been looking out for eg. an extending magnet. It is an experience to sit and have an orange juice and lemon custard pastry and watch and listen to the locals. We are gradually picking up some more Italian words.

We have to return to Impulsive for the electricians. After they have done all they can we set off walking again a long way to catch a bus 8ks out of town to Cathedral Monreale. We just missed the bus but luckily found a taxi as it is a 50 min. wait until the next one, and we have limited time to be back for the electricians. William II had this most beautiful cathedral built. It is an excellent example of Norman architecture and the mosaics, finished in C12, are magnificent describing the important stories of the Old Testament. Mosaics also decorate the columns which surround the peaceful courtyard of the adjoining cloisters.

Cathedral Monreale

We just make it back for the electricians who are delayed. With the efficient Internet connection here we have a Skype session with Scott and Heather and family. Modern technology is amazing – we feel we are actually visiting them. Anna gives us a piano recital and we can even see her hands playing as well as hearing the music. We had long phone conversations with Steve and Meg’s children recently and so enjoy keeping in touch with them all.

The electricians don’t return because they are unable to replace the part, so we later walk into the Garibaldi Gardens area again to a restaurant the marine manager recommends. Local knowledge is always the best. (We came back to find the electricians had come to see us and return the disintegrated part. This was on a Saturday night so they had a very long day starting with us at 8.30 am.)

SATURDAY, 23 AUGUST 2008

An early morning visit to the medieval Matorana Church and the neighbouring Arab/Norman style Chiesa di Sancataldo with its unusual small pink domes, near the main piazza starts the day.

Chiesa di Sancataldo

We have a final provisioning trip to the market and supermarket.

After a relaxed stay at Palermo we leave for a 6 hour motor sail westwards to Cefalu. It is glorious out on the sparkling waters today, using little power from the engine and with both sails up. We really enjoy the Sicilian coast as before. We must anchor 300m off shore here or you can suffer a fine of E100. Swimming off the back of the boat here is exceptional – wonderful scenery looking into the old town, the Duomo in the background, beautiful beaches lined with colourful umbrellas, and high mountains set further back covered with greenery.

Main beach at Cefalu

The evening lights come on as we go into shore. We have dinner at the foot of the well-lit Duomo and enjoy the pianist here. The gelati ice creams are still a favourite as we walk down the narrow cobbled alleyways to the dinghy.

SICILY - AOLIAN ISLANDS TO ITALY

SUNDAY, 24 AUGUST 2008

A lovely start to the day is just sitting quietly near the Duomo, drawing and taking in the scene and atmosphere. There is such a colourful scene in the small port when we return to the dinghy, added to by many children swimming and playing with the sun glistening on the water on their healthy, sun-tanned bodies.

Later we leave Sicily mainland.

After the smaller ports in the Greek Islands where you tie up right in the town centre and everything is easily accessible, we found it difficult at first to feel part of the larger ports and touristy towns in Sicily. Also, in Greece everyone recognizes the Australian flag and makes you feel welcome straight away, as most Greeks have lived in Australia themselves or have friends or relatives living there.

As we could gradually communicate more easily as we picked up some Italian words and phrases, and especially when we came into the smaller ports and towns, we found the people to be more friendly and welcoming. Now we are great enthusiasts of Sicily.

We have seen the influence of the ancient Carthaginian days, the early Greeks, the Etruscans, the Spanish and the Romans through to Italy's unification in 1870 eg. the Norman and Baroque architecture and the different cuisines, eg. North African couscous with the fish in broth.

The Maffia have had a strong hold on society here for many years but we gather it is less invasive now. Ross thinks he saw someone leaving a shop with a gun two days ago, so who knows. The change of president will hopefully make a difference.

We motor the first section of our 6 hour trip to Isola Filicudi. This is our first stop in the Sicilian Aeolian Islands. There is no wind. It is calm and the sea is just the most unbelievable turquoise, changing to the mid-blues as it gets deeper. Later the wind comes up to 8-10 kts so we can motor sail. The skipper is always keen to get the sails up, even though we can't put the mainsail fully up until we buy the new baton. Also, a few clouds appear, and later a few spots of rain, neither of which we have seen for months. The barometer is steady so we are not worried about a change in the weather.

This area called the Aeolian triangle can blow up with strong weather like the Bemuda Triangle, so we are pleased the forecast for the next few days is calm with little wind.

Filicudi is a very small port with very few facilities. We go ashore for a walk and a simple pasta dinner. It is a beautiful calm night to be moored on a buoy but we are woken early with the swell that has loosened a stay which is knocking loudly on the deck. A broken sleep is always frustrating.

MONDAY, 25 AUGUST 2008

Off we go on our early morning jog/walk in towards the centre of the island. It is steep but with beautiful scenery as we head off along the coast road. We are looking for the prehistoric village from the Bronze Age, but miss the turn off. Late morning we set sail to circumnavigate this small island to view Faraglioni (a rock obelisks) and the blue grottos, eg. Grotto del Perclato Marino.

The Grotto
Anchored to see the Grotto

The waters here are so clear and blue that sitting up in the pulpit seat at the bow of the yacht is a treat. You can feel the power of the boat as she plies through the water and enjoy watching all the other boats out here.

Ross has us leaving to reach our next destination in good time to try and ensure we can find a buoy to moor on. Salina is an attractive port to come into as we pass its high cliffs and wooded inland with many vines. We have troubles settling onto a buoy though. There are still several available and we just manage to organize ourselves when a very officious young man in a run-about tells us to move (this one is reserved) and points out another buoy. It is quite difficult to have the boat in the right position and then for Ross to lean out over the side and pull up the attachment rope. Most times a young man in this situation would help - it only takes 3 minutes - but he chose not to. I guess our lack of language doesn't help but most yachties and boat operators help one another. It was interesting to see all the yachts come in and it wasn't long before all the buoys were occupied.

Wandering about onshore up and down the main street with its attractive shops (clothes and wine shops and alimentaria). We don't know where all the people are as these places don't seem as well patronized as they usually are after a hot day. We have one of the best meals we have had tonight though. The stuffed baby calamari were delicious.

TUESDAY, 26 AUGUST 2008

Leaving Salina

We circumnavigate Filicudi Is. It is magic sitting in the pulpit seat at the bow of Impulsive as we cross over the most beautiful calm, azure blue waters. It is great to feel the boat surging through the water. We pass by the Faraglioni (obelisk of rock), and anchor off the Blue Grotto to take the dinghy in to see the sun shining through the different tones of blue and turquoise.

Scott recommends a visit to Volcano Island. It is quite a phenomena to sit in a small, natural spa with its warm, pale green water and hot bubbles rising up like springs. Sometimes your feet feel they are being scorched if you stand on one of the sources of the bubbles. You look up to see the volcano smoking out its crater.

Arriving at Lipari

We are pleased to be moored at Lipari in good time. This is the most colourful of the Aeolian Islands we have seen. The people here are very friendly. The mooring guy was particularly helpful, and when we went ashore some kind person had taken the dinghy further up the beach to ensure it was safe with the large washes from all the ferries.

We stroll up the busy main street and then up through some narrow back streets past the some lovely residential areas, and then up long, steep stairway to the Cathedral and castle. The streets are too narrow for cars so they use motorized carts or motorbikes. There isn't much room for pedestrians as well.

View from the Cathedral

Tonight we just feel like a home cooked meal so have dinner on the yacht. This is a good decision, as later there is seriously heavy rain. If we had been ashore we would have been soaked through, and all the hatches and portholes would have been open, as there was no warning of this except a few clouds. We are pleased for the boat to have a good wash down.

WEDNESDAY, 27 AUGUST 2008

This is a good morning to visit the archaeological museum, as there are still heavy downpours of rain, which is wonderful for the island.

This museum depicts the history, particularly of Lipari, with its pottery starting from the mid-Neolithic and Bronze Ages in order through to Roman times. The impressive displays of the burial urns are as they were found in situ in the ground. There is also a treasured collection of Greek theatrical masks. There are fine examples of Obsidian, the black, natural glass which erupts from the volcano after the emission of the pumice. It is fragile.

We have another short passage to Panarea. This find this island hopping is very relaxing, and really enjoy this life style.

Swimming here off the boat moored just off the beach is a treat.

Panarea

Ashore we find this island's individuality is its Greek style white washed houses. Carts are also used here to manage the steep, narrow alleyways. It is peaceful sitting and drawing looking over the small harbour with the late sun shining on boats and the large rocks rising up out of the water offshore.

We have a drink at the famous Hotel Raya, looking over Stromboli at sunset, with the oil lamps lit to add to the atmosphere. It is really fun seeing all the young here and what they are wearing. Panarea has a real holiday atmosphere.

Sunset at Raya Resort

THURSDAY, 28 AUGUST 2008

We wake up to see the contrast of the high, rocky escarpment covered with green, cactus-type plants with yellow flowers rising up next to the bluest of blue sea. An early morning swim is a must.

Today is a short northerly motor-sail to Stromboli. It is a constant view of this permanently active volcano with smoke soaring from its crater.

It takes time to anchor as the depths here are hundreds of metres dropping straight down very close to shore. We anchor just off the beach. It is amusing to see people enjoying this beach with its black sand. It brings to mind the wonderful beaches in Australia.

The evidence of the rich black soil here is striking with the lushness of the plants with flowers cascading everywhere. The narrow streets are steep and carts are used here too.

We set off along the very narrow main road following the coast and then ascend up to the observatory for dinner. Watching the sunset over the sea is a bonus. As dark falls you can see the torch lights of people and their guides climbing to the crater. From here it is exciting to see the red fiery explosions from the volcano.

We hadn't planned doing this so we don't have a torch to walk back down this very rocky and uneven path. It is a very clear, starry night but with no moonlight yet. We get off to a stumbling start and then are lucky to catch up to a couple with torches, so we can follow in this light.

It is still very dark back in the town because there are no streetlights as the power on the island is from generators.

We are always relieved to find the dinghy where we have left it. It is a magnificent night to be out on the water - not a ripple anywhere.

FRIDAY, 29 AUGUST 2008

Waking at 5.30pm means we can leave in good time for a 10 hour trip to mainland Italy, and marks the end of another section of the trip. The weather forecast is excellent so we head off motor sailing due north, leaving behind views of Stromboli, the northernmost Aeolian Island.

Stromboli Volcano

We find there is a fine black coverage of fine dust and particles over the boat from the volcano debris. We wonder how people make the decision to live here under an active volcano. Perhaps with modern technology they have enough warning to evacuate in time and it is chilling to see the signs for this. The last eruption was in 2007.

We have a good sail for several hours with 15 knots of wind during our 10 hour crossing to Italy's mainland. It is hazy as this coastline comes into view. This has been typical in Sicily too, and can make identifying landmarks difficult. Thank goodness for the GPS and chart plotter.

This western coast of Italy is very attractive with its heavily wooded mountains reaching down to the coast with its many coves and beaches. We anchor at Capo Palinuro with its beautiful, colourful and well cared for beach surrounded by farmlands at the foot of the mountains. Swimming in the waters here is brilliant.

SICILY - PART III - Marsala, Favignana, Levanzo

SICILY - PART III

TUESDAY, 12 AUGUST 2008

We take a dinghy ride across to the old town. It doesn't take long to walk through here as it is so small. The piazza is attractive with its baroque buildings, although some are in need of renovation. We enjoy a visit to the art gallery here, followed by a morning cup of coffee and share a delicious croissant and cream (custard).

Marzamemi - -Old Town

After a refreshing swim on the sea we set off to motor sail for about 4 hours to Pozzallo. We had access to electricity and water at the last marina (even though we were rafted up), so we enjoy being able to anchor here and enjoy the space. We can use the water maker to keep up our water supplies but it is good to have the opportunity to wash down the boat when we are on shore supplies. Also it is lovely being able to swim off the back of the boat.

Ross and Amanda go ashore to organize her ticket back to Catania to catch her plane home to London. At the marina they have a lovely experience after asking a couple where the train station is. Italo and Patricia suggest the bus is the best option and offer to drive them to the terminus to purchase a ticket and then back to the dinghy at the marina. Ross invites them out to Impulsive. Italo was born in Catania and they now live in Milan. They are also enthusiastic sailors.

The Melletts join us here later. This is possibly the last time we'll see them before we return to Melbourne next month. It is also Amanda's last night with us. Sam and Andrew Mellett are joining Free Spirit in a week. It would have been fun if it had coincided with Amanda's time with us.

After drinks on Free Spirit we have dinner at a typical local restaurant suggested by the people we were with this afternoon. They are unable to join us, unfortunately, as they are catching up with family. Amazingly, we see Italo sitting on his balcony as we walk to the restaurant. This is a real coincidence as we have no idea where they are staying.

The eggplant and pasta dish is the favourite tonight. We follow this up with a Greek tradition of a gelati in the main square where it is quite lively and has some live music playing. The finale is a nightcap on Impulsive.

WEDNESDAY, 13 AUGUST 2008

After an early morning walk/jog we take Amanda into shore to see her off on the bus. She is a competent crew and we have had lots of fun. It has been a special time too with all the discussions about weddings and brides and future plans. We just hope we can make it to the wedding.

After speaking to Italo and Patricia we have decided to do an overnight sail along the southern coast and up the west coast to Marsala. This involves passing by Agrigento with its well known ancient ruins, but we can't do it all. We have a lovely afternoon sailing close by the coast. It is very attractive with rolling hills, studded with trees, many coastal towns and long stretches of beaches. The sea is calm and a beautiful blue with several fishing boats and yachts about.

Tonight is balmy and still the sea is calm with an almost full moon to see by and enjoy. Night sailing in these conditions is just wonderful. We are still tracking close to the coast, so can see the lights from the towns along the way. There is a lot of action out here tonight. Yachts are traveling in the same direction as us, fishing boats are going across in front and behind us, in and out to shore, and there are many large cargo ships, some anchored and some traveling further out. There is little time for reading!

THURSDAY, 14 AUGUST 2008

I wake up just as we come into Masarla port at about 11am. This is quite a testing stern-to mooring as the quay arms are not far apart with little turning space. Thank goodness for the bow thrusters.

It is a long walk into the old town which is lovely with its large limestone pavers and its many Marsala tasting cellars. We have a slow food movement lunch at Garibaldi traditional trattoria. This is very appropriate for 2 tired people after an overnight sail. The anti-pasta dishes are delicious. Couscous is a traditional dish in Sicily. We don't think we can manage anti-pasta, then first courses, then mains, not to mention dessert. We tried the dry Marsala which doesn't suit our palates. We think the sweet Marsala will be too sweet, but we will try it next time.

Garibaldi Trattoria

The Flemish tapestries of Masarla are exhibited in some adjoining buildings to the Mother Church of Masarla. They are eight in number and depict the war of the Romans against the Hebrews.

Marsala

We find advertisements to a concert and light dinner just out of town. A young man stops to see if he can help us. He says it is only 7ks. out of town and is a lovely place with panoramic views. He kindly reappears 10 minutes later with his mobile phone, just as we have dialed the number, so he books it for us. We really look forward to this, with the added benefit of the full moon. However, it's not to be. We can't hire a car anywhere, so we head off in the dinghy in our determination. Some n.miles later we realize this is too far and turn back. This is a wise decision as the wind is coming up. We then try to find a taxi which we do and then have a language problem. All is sorted, until the driver says the concert is 25 ks. away and if he picks us up as well it will cost E75. (about $120-), so we give up and have a lovely dinner in the old town at a trattoria with a marvelous guitarist and singer, and a view of the duomo which is lit up.

FRIDAY, 15 AUGUST 2008

We take Impulsive over to the fuel dock at 6.30am because we noticed yesterday people were queuing for diesel and this would be very difficult for us in the tight space available. We are tied up ready when the operator opens at 7am. I have a counting lesson in Italian with him as we read the bowser dial for Ross. It is the pronunciation which I need most help with. It's all good fun.

We have a great sail to the Egadi Islands, even though it's only 10n.miles. We go into Favignana port which is very small and crowded. We are very pleased to find a place we can just manage to anchor in when someone warns us the huge ferries need turning space there. So we anchor just outside.

Favignana is famous for its past tuna fishing industry. It is particularly busy here, and we are unable to hire a bike (cycling or motor) anywhere. After a relaxing lunch in the town square we go back to the boat. It's very hot and Ross needs to catch up on some sleep. This is fortunate because the wind comes up and is forecast to be much stronger - force 7 - and in a direction that will make this anchorage untenable. As we take up the anchor we realize every one is moving from here. The people on a nearby yacht have brought out a diver because they are unable to get their anchor up, which is a worry in this situation. We sail the few n.miles across to Levanzo Island to the delightful cove just past the tiny port here.

Levanzo

The wind has come up already and it takes time to find a secure place to tie up the dinghy to go ashore at dusk. Some small boats and dinghies are being tossed around in the surge. We arrive in time to see what we think is a funeral procession. Everyone who lives on the island seems to be involved, including a band. There are only two places to eat here. Albergo Paradiso is very attractive, set up high and with delicious traditional cuisine. It is very popular. We don't have a reservation but they manage to fit us in. For a small island they certainly know how to charge.

This anchorage proves to be secure. We see some boats come and leave because there isn't much room. There are only 4 yachts here overnight. Unfortunately we are woken at 1.30am when one drags anchor, but we are really just pleased it doesn't happen to us. Luckily we can sleep in.

SATURDAY, 16 AUGUST 2008

We start the day with a run around the coast to the next cove.

Nearby Cove

It is small and already has people swimming there in its beautiful waters. When we get back Ross picks up my clothes and shoes in the dinghy and the long swim back to the yacht is great. He swims out to meet me so enjoys a swim too.

We realize we are very tired after some broken nights sleep and traveling quite constantly for some time, so we have a relaxing day on the boat. It is a lovely cove here and during the day it becomes quite crowded with other boats, from large cruises and yachts to small run-abouts. It is only an hour from the mainland, so many are weekend day trippers. We enjoy hearing some young families having a fun summers day.

Hermut, an Austrian from a nearby catamaran, swims over. He is a very interesting person, running a livestock air-transport business, including tigers, snakes, and even koalas. Many clients are people moving their pets when they are moved themselves by a company. A large percentage of their work is for zoos, including moving males from zoo to zoo to prevent inbreeding and to keep the genetic pool as large as possible.

He is pleased we can give him a weather report, and we appreciate advice for mooring in Trapani, our next planned stop.

Ross cooks up a splendid prawn risotto for dinner and we watch the end of a DVD "Around the World in 80 Days" with Michael Palin. It's taken us 2 months to watch the whole series because we rarely use a DVD, but when we do it's very relaxing.

ITALY

SATURDAY, 30 AUGUST 2008

We enjoy an early morning walk/jog on a track overhung with trees, by a farm with its orchard, vines, corn crops and cows with their bells jingling.

Later we have a surprise visit from a man and his daughter and her friend who swim out to the boat. They come on board for a cup of tea, and are soon joined by his wife. They are yachties themselves who have sailed a lot of the Mediterranean so are very interested in Impulsive and our trip. Their daughter is planning to come to Australia on a university exchange program so we hope we see her there. They invited us to contact them when we arrive in Rome.

The family from Rome swimming back to shore

It is 20n.miles north along the coast to anchor at Oligastro under Punta (Pt.) Licosa. This is another small resort town, and pleasant to walk around and have dinner. The tiny church here has a service at 6.30pm and it is lovely to hear the church bells followed by hearty singing by a very enthusiastic congregation who overflow to the many chairs outside.

SUNDAY, 31 AUGUST 2008

We take advantage of the calm weather forecast and head directly to the Amalfi coast. The marina is usually full at Amalfi, and very expensive so we can anchor outside if necessary. (We had planned to moor at Salerno marina and catch a train to Pompeii, so we will postpone this land trip).

There is just enough wind to motor sail with both sails up for the 30n.miles tracking slightly west of north. This is a lovely passage over the bluest of waters which you can look down into from the bow of the boat and see the light refracting. It is spectacular coming into Amalfi by boat seeing the colourful houses cling to the cliff faces, often looking like a wedding cake, and surrounded by steep, terraced mountains.

Amalfi - wedding cake effect of houses

The Duomo dome is glistening with its green and yellow tiles in the sun. It seems amazing we can anchor just 100m. off-shore from this well known sophisticated resort along the Amalfi coast.

This used to be a strategically important and strong maritime town. It is one of the 4 powerful Maritime Republics which in the Middle Ages (839-1135AD) established productive relationships with other people, and especially with the Orient.

We want to make the most of our time here so go ashore for lunch, sitting looking over the marina.

The Duomo is a most impressive building with its sumptuous baroque interior dating back to C18. St. Andrew, Jesus' first disciple, features here rather than Christ himself. St. Andrew's bones are in the crypt. The Cloisters of Paradise are the ancient cemetery for the noblemen of Amalfi, built between 1266-8.

It is great to have some quiet time on the boat, swimming off her stern, and drawing the marvellous scene ahead of Amalfi.

We venture ashore again for dinner at the family run Trattoria San Guiseppe. It is very difficult to find amongst Amalfi's many narrow alleyways.

MONDAY, 1 SEPTEMBER 2008

An early morning walk starts the day, followed by coffee and lemon custard filled croissants at a waterside cafe while we try our hand at capturing the wedding cake effect of some of the houses.

Views of Amalfi from above

Soon we leave for Positano, another favourite place for tourists on the Amalfi coast we have really been looking forward to seeing. It is wonderful again to approach from the sea with the sun shining over its multi-coloured houses set against the backdrop of high mountains. The tourist season has obviously dropped off in this area. We are able to get a mooring easily and there are not many visiting boats. The man on the neighbouring boat and manager of the moorings are both very welcoming and friendly. There is still a large number of ferries coming and going though, as in Amalfi, which set up constant large swells.

We have never climbed as many steps as we have here. We are trying to find a recommended tratorria, and after climbing up many stairs and lots of walking discover its 10ks away so give up and have a delicious lunch with wonderful views at nearby Cafe Positano.

We travel by dinghy tonight to the recommended trattoria, Il Pirate at Priano. This is quite an adventure to a trattoria set on a narrow rock ledge and only 3m above sea level. It has to be one of the most romantic restaurants we have ever been to, especially as they light the candles and the nearby evening lights come on.

We talk to the proprietor, Rino, who bought this area on the mountain years ago and gradually set it up as it is today. Now there are other family members involved, eg. a cousin runs the hotel they built.

Last year there were huge seas from the south that wiped out much of their trattoria, eg. they had to replace china and wine. He also explains how expensive real estate is now along the Amalfi coast as no new building is permitted - only approved renovations.

The trip back in the dinghy in the open sea is quite something! The sea is calm, though and we appreciate having this stronger dinghy and motor or we could not have contemplated doing this.

Rino tells us his life long dream is to sail around the world, so we invite him to the yacht in the morning. He is very busy tomorrow with a full booking of 100 people (we were lucky to strike a quiet night with only a few people), so we are not too hopeful.

When we get back to Impulsive we have a taste of the locally grown Malvasia wine from Lipari.

TUESDAY, 2 SEPTEMBER 2008

We ring Sam Macaw for his 6th birthday. We are always sorry to miss these occasions.

Then we set off to Nocelli, a small mountain top village. This initially involves a walk along the coast with spectacular views, and then a climb up 1700 steps. This number doesn't look much on paper but it certainly is to do it. We enjoy seeing the attractive houses built into the side of the mountain with their lovely gardens and the occasional swimming pool. They all enjoy these views.

Views from the walk to Nocelli (Positano)

Many of them have orchards and vegetable gardens. It is interesting many are starting their pruning.

View of the Duomo from the walk

We came back down to Positano via another route. It is fascinating to see the engineering feats managed here with the road and tunnel constructions high up on the side of the mountains. It all looks impossible.

This exercise takes 3 hours and is so rewarding as it really gives us a better feel for the place.

Early afternoon we track further west along the Amalfi coast to moor in a marine reserve. This is a beautiful little cove but has no moorings and we are not permitted to anchor in this reserve.

We track a short distance west across to anchor off the east coast of Capri in another beautiful and isolated place. The waters are turquoise and sheer rocks rise straight up out of the water. As dusk falls all the other boats leave and we are the only ones left to enjoy this treat of nature.

SICILY - Poem

Poem

When you sail into Taormina
You can anchor just off the shore
You take the bus to the old hill-top town
With its arches and lanes to explore.

You are not the only ones here, of course
The crowd bustles up and down
You can idle and watch it all go by
With the painted, miming clown.

When we sail south to Aci Trezza
We tie between fishermen
Mandie flies in from England to join us
And make us feel younger again.

The man at the bus stop called Bruno
Is our self-appointed guide
Of the buildings and squares of Catania
While Mount Etna stands smoking beside.

At Siracuse we tie on the old town quay
Alongside some vast power boats
The passegiata (evening stroll) comes right beside
To inspect everything that floats.

We go on a tour to the old baroque towns
At Nota we sample granita
There's Ragusa's tiled dome and the heights of Scicli
After chocolate and lunch at Modica.

Further south down the coast's Marzamemi
We sail with a gentle breeze
They just fit us in at the end of an arm
It's August and often a squeeze.

To enjoy the old town La Balata
We ignore spray paint desecration
Then we round Cape Passero to let Mandie off
At the downtown Pozzallo bus station.

You must find time to visit Marsala
Garibaldi's the place to dine
Walk the limestone paved streets, see the tapestries
And then taste some local wine.

And why not then try the Isole Egadi?
Favignana's a tourist-strewn town
But slip off to tiny Levanzo
You can jog, have a swim, just slow down.

As I sit here and write this the wind has died down
The rocks are now bathed in soft light
Life's decisions don't seem very difficult here
So we stay for another night.

When you go to Trapani be sure to arrive
On a Sunday, to hear the church song
Then walk the town streets, find a good place to eat
And delight in the town sing-along.

The singing and stage seem part of life here
The hymns could get you to mass
And as well as good singing the town square produced
A tiny Maria Callas.

We motor-scoot up to the Erice town
Walk its beautiful stone-paved streets
Then we tear down to San Pantaleo
Whence Phonecians beat their retreat.

When we drop anchor just off Scopello
The wind comes up from north-east
We must shelter at Terrasini
(25 knots of wind, at least).

It drops next day and we head further east
To Isola delle Femmine
We do some boat chores, swim, paint and walk
How better to spend a day?

The mafia must be on holiday
When we tie in Palermo's port
The old town is grubby but it grows on you
There are no signs of crime to report.

Our highlight is Monreale
With its fabulous biblical scenes
Done in gold trimmed mosaics, and Christ presides
Looming large,with his lit face serene.

The market exudes its enticing smells
And the sounds of strife and laughter
The veggie man wraps in a paper cone
The gadget man has the magnet we're after.

Cefalu is a medieval town
That is beautifully preserved
We anchor off Porto Vecchio
But the swell spoils the sleep we deserved.

Now we're off to explore the Isole Aeolie
Filicudi's the first place to stop
We find a free mooring and run up the road
Almost, but not quite, to the top.

At Salina the boatman insists that we move
(But the mooring turns out to be free)
An Australian flag doesn't help here as much
As it did back in the Aegean sea.

At Lipari the boatman restores our faith
In the friendly Sicilian way
A welcoming smile is all that it takes
For us to be willing to pay.

We bathe in the Volcano thermals
We walk in Lipari's rain
We soak up some archeology
We stop at our cafe again.

Panarea's a tiny car-free isle
As if Greek, it's white and blue
We enjoy a drink at the Raya Hotel
As the lightning flashes through.

The water out here is a marvellous mix
Of all the blues in the pallette
It's a joy to dive and swim in it
(an American would sell it).

Stromboli gives us a farewell display
As it belches smoke and fire
As we sail away to the mainland coast
It sends smoke ever higher.

August 2008

FAVOURITE RECIPES THIS LEG:

A lunch time salad:

2 slices of watermelon per person
Wrap each slice in smoked salmon and place a small piece of mint on each one (squeeze lime juice over the smoked salmon).

Serve with caprese (sliced tomato, bocciccini and basil) Cos lettuce with thinly sliced carrot and cucumber and Italian parsley for decoration.

All the ingredients are fresh from the market, except for the smoked salmon which was bought in Sri Lanka and had been in the freezer. The freezer on the yacht is excellent.

-----------------------------------------

Favourite recipe this leg:

Pasta dish

Toss still warm soba noodles in light vinaigrette dressing with a packet of local "pasta" herbs from the market (take out some of the chili according to taste - it can be harsh on dry lips)
Toss through: cos lettuce
cherry tomatoes
beans
avacado
tuna
goat's cheese (or fetta)
basil
arrange hard-boiled eggs on the top

CAPRI - NAPLES - POMPEII

WEDNESDAY, 3 SEPTEMBER 2008

Anchorage s.e. coast of Capri

We up anchor early to come round to the n.west side of Capri to see its famous Blue Grotto before the crowds arrive. We are unable to find it looking from the yacht, even though it is marked on the chart but shows as slightly off the coast. We continue on further to anchor outside Marina Grande. A berth here can cost $A360 per night, so we are delighted to still have a calm weather forecast so we can anchor outside.

We find an excursion boat back to the Blue grotto. The entrance to this is so small and low we have to lie down flat in the small row-boat to enter it, so no wonder we were unable to find the opening.

The colours in here with the rays of sunlight refracting through them with such clarity range from sky blue through to turquoise.

Strangely, we enjoyed the trip around the island seeing other grottos and landmarks, and some homes of the rich and famous, eg. Sophia Loren and Georgio Armani.

Late afternoon we try to organize a scooter to do some exploring and to book at a recommended restaurant up in Capri town. Ross has asked around and decides that the scooter hire is over the top here. It proves to be a good decision. We take a taxi ride up to the main town and quickly see you are taking your life in your own hands to tackle the narrow, winding streets and the Italian drivers on a bike. The bikes cannot be ridden through the pedestrian streets of the town down the cobbled narrow streets with every possible designer shop known. (Ross doesn't enjoy shopping but I am very spoilt here - actually my only clothes shopping for this leg of the trip). We enjoy the long walk along the mountainside by many grand mansions and hotels, and their gardens, looking for this particular place. We find Villa Brunelli perched up high and looking over the most spectacular views down to the sea and some of the coves on the south side of the island, and are able to secure a table for later with this view.

We find a stair route back down to the port to take the dinghy back to Impulsive. Later we take the funicular back up to Capri town to go to dinner at Brunellis, which is a great experience, and delicious.

THURSDAY, 4 SEPTEMBER 2008

It is impressive that a rubbish collector comes past the boat each morning, as in Positano.

We try another form of transport this morning as we set off in a bus for Anacarpri, another mountain top town.

Villa San Michele up here is an original historic villa with the most breath taking views of Capri, the Sorrento peninsular and the Bay of Naples. Between 1896 and 1907 it was the home of its Swedish creator, court physician, and writer Axel Munthe. The garden, with its long, curved pergola is stunning and a joy to walk through.

Another bus trip takes us to the Faro (lighthouse) where we begin a coastal walk to the 4 fortresses. This is a 3 hour walk and is punctuated along the way with beautiful tiles depicting the local flora, fauna and fish with illustrations and descriptions. The walk itself has amazing views and highlights the colours of the seas here. The walk gives you a better idea of Capri rather than just remembering it for all its tourist shops.

This takes us to the Blue Grotto where we catch a bus back to the port. We admire the bus drivers on how they manage and judge passing other vehicles on roads obviously not built for buses. They are all polite to one another and seem to know who should give way to whom.

We have had a wonderful time in Capri after expecting it to be very busy and glitzy. In contrast to this it has been very manageable.

The next two islands we visit in the Bay of Naples have been recommended by the Roman family we met recently at Cape Palinuro. Mid-afternoon we leave for Procida, the first of these. It is a very attractive, small harbour and marina at Chiaiolella. This is our first marina stop for 12 days and decide to go in because it is a safe place to leave Impulsive safely to do a proposed day trip tomorrow, and she needs a good wash down with fresh water. The cost is rather exorbitant but well worth it. There isn't much here but the long beach is very popular for holidaymakers. There is a very friendly atmosphere here.

Stuffed zucchini flowers are popular with the local cuisine here. They are such a treat in Australia it is amazing to find they sold at street stalls in parts of Italy.

FRIDAY, 5 SEPTEMBER 2008

We catch an early bus to the port of Procida. We like this noisy trip across the island, rattling along the narrow, winding, cobbled streets past the pastel houses. Fortunately, we just make it in time to take the hydrofoil to Naples. We decide it is easier to do this to explore Naples and Pompeii than bring the boat to Naples which we are warned is very busy.

After arriving in Naples we happen upon a guide/ driver to take us to Pompeii. This is an excellent option as we were walking to the train station to get to Pompeii. It will be a long day anyway and this will make it more manageable. We are at Pompeii before 9am. so beat the heat and the crowds.

Pompeii

Pompeii, rising on a plateau of Vesuvian lava, is an ancient city dating from the end of C7 and so well preserved since the eruption of Vesuvius in 79A.D. There is so much to see with its architecture, sculptures, paintings and mosaics.

It is very moving to think of all the lives lost here, especially when you see a few plaster casts of the victims of the eruption.

Our guide drives us to see the major landmarks in Naples so we can find our own way back after lunch at a restaurant he recommends looking over the waterfront near the old castle. We try a Nepalese pizza, as this is where pizzas originated. It is extra good, and well washed down with a glass of the local white wine.

The old castle - Naples

Our guide explains how expensive real estate is in Naples. For young married couples both need to work just to rent a 2 bedroom apartment. He surprises us when he says he is 74 (he seems much younger), retired and doing this job to boost his pension. He finds out which cruises are coming in each day and goes down to meet them to find his clientele. He explains we are lucky as there are only 2 cruisers due in today. Yesterday there were 5 and the whole place, including Pompeii, were very crowded.

We have been warned to watch for pickpockets, especially in Naples. We take precautions but don't experience any problems.

This afternoon we wander for several hours to see the Plazza Del Plebiscito with the palace and the Palazzo Reale, the Chiaia and Santa Lucia areas with their up-market shops, and Spaccanapoli area, ie. the old town and student areas.

The return trip on the ferry includes a view of the Q.E. 2.

We spend time at Port Procida when we get back. It is a lovely small town with its faded, pastel coloured houses, and has an attractive, popular, small pebbled beach nearby where we enjoy a quiet relax as the sun is going down. Port Procida

We have a simple dinner looking over the port before we catch the bus back to Impulsive. This trip is a real local scene. We are all packed into this small bus like sardines and every time the bus stops and starts we all lurch forwards and back. Every time it comes to a stop people have to get out to let people off. The driver copes with all this as well as managing the driving in the traffic and the narrow streets.

SATURDAY, 6 SEPTEMBER 2008

Our run/walk this morning takes us across the footbridge to Isola Vivara. This crosses the bay of Vivara which is one of the old volcanic craters of the island. This island is a nature reserve where birds are protected.

Footbridge to Isola Vivara

Now we head towards the largest island in the Gulf of Naples.

ITALIA - Poem

ITALIA

We're less than 200 miles from Rome
You'd expect a tourist zone
But we anchor at Cape Palinuro
And end up being alone.

A family swims out from the shore
And comes aboard for a chat
It's one of the pleasures of yachting
To have unscheduled visits like that.

When we anchor at Oligastro
It's Sunday. The church bell rings
The square outside the church is packed
The congregation sings.

Amalfi and Positano: such names!
As exotic as names can be
Yet we're sitting not 200 yards offshore
Having just wandered in by sea.

At Amalfi have warm fish salad for lunch
With a golden glass of white wine
See St Andrews Duomo, sketch the wedding cakes
Go to San Guiseppe's to dine.

From Positano it's only 4 miles
To Il Pirate by sea
Take the tender there and dine on the rock
And come home carefully.

When you're feeling a bit energetic next day
Walk the staircase built from stone
To the top of the hill to Nocelle
It will show if your legs were in tone.

There's still no wind and it's calm at night
So we anchor on the east of Capris
20 metres away from the sheer rocky cliff
In a baby blue-turquoise sea.

"You have to visit Capris at least once"
That's what the pilot book states
We think we could come back here again
Though there's work to be done on dates.

We anchor just off Marina Grande
We find Christie's bathing suit rack
We eat memorably at Villa Brunella
We walk the 4 forts track.

The marina at Chiaiolella
Is a safe place to leave the boat
The cafes are spoiled by scooter noise and fumes
But the run to Vivari is not.

We rattle by bus to Procida town
We do the tour of Pompeii
We enjoy a long walk through Naples
As well as the pizza café.

We anchor next day at Ischia, on a
Special anniversary day
We dine and dance on Impulsive
Six chef's hats, at least, I would say.

We tour Ischia by scooter
And discover St Angelo
So we come here and anchor. In the morning light
The pinks and ochres glow.

At Ventotene the Romans carved
The harbour from the rocks
Then the lighthouse was built and to finish the scene
There are pastel building blocks.

At Ponza Island we anchor again
Near a wind-carved limestone bay
It's calm and private and also avoids
The fees they want yachties to pay.

There are pastel coloured buildings again
The sea's as clear as you could wish
I have hundreds of helpers to clean the hull
In the form of colourful fish.

We are on our last leg; we have 60 miles
To finish the voyage to Rome
We think Italia is wonderful
But we're also thinking of home.

September 2008

ISHOLA ISCHIA & ISOLA VENTOTENE TO ROME

SATURDAY, 6 SEPTEMBER 2008 (Cont).

We head west for 3 n.miles sailing to Isola Ischia in the Flegree group of islands to anchor off the beach outside Porto d'Ischia. This is a very colourful scene with all the beach umbrellas organized in groups of their different colours along the beach. The beach is packed with people lying in the sun, swimming and children just romping having fun.

Late afternoon we take the dinghy inside the port and have a stroll around the town. The port is very attractive, even though it is so busy, and is difficult to get a berth in. We have decided to anchor outside tonight anyway after 2 nights in the marina. It's lovely to have the feeling of space and quiet. We cook a delicious dinner on the boat.

SUNDAY, 7 SEPTEMBER 2008

This is another lovely place to swim off the back of the boat. In fact, we decide to have a relaxing time and stay here another night. Ross listens to the weather report on the HF radio and checks the weather grid on the sea mail on the computer and all looks clear for the next few days to take us through to Rome. We have a day or two spare in our schedule to allow for winds against us.

A motorbike excursion on the island is great fun. It is risky but Ross drives carefully as we strike some Sunday afternoon traffic on the way back. There are several other attractive ports, lush vegetation rising up towards the mountainsides, thermal springs and houses nestled in with their white, rose or Naples yellow washes. Along a major cliff top are some grand mansions. The highlight is Sant'Angelo D'Ischia, a small port on the east side, joined to Ischia by a narrow sandy isthmus. The harbour is at the base of the steep cliff faces. The Roman family we met had recommended this place. It is a gem. We decide to return here with the yacht.

Back at Porto Ischia looking at the other boats we find a large motor cruiser with a couple on their way to Hamilton Island. We are always pleased to see others flying the Australian flag.

We think we are having a simple dinner ashore but find they are still charging high season prices! It is lovely sitting by the harbour, people and boat watching.

MONDAY, 8 SEPTEMBER 2008

We get back around to Sant'Angelo D'Ischia for breakfast anchored just outside the tiny port here. We enjoy some time ashore and then a swim off the boat before leaving in a westerly direction 21 n.miles to Isola Ventotene. The forecast suggests a 16kts wind coming up on the nose by 3pm (and often it is stronger than is forecast), so Ross wants to be there before this change happens.

Anchoring offshore here is difficult but it is very amusing to see Ross fully dressed leaning over the stern swimming board with his goggles and snorkel on looking under the water to find some sandy bottom without too many rocks.

It would have been quite exciting to go into this historic little harbour which was dug out of rock by the Romans. The port was built for the galleys and has several galley sheds also cut out of the rock.

Ventotene has a history of people who were exiled here, including Nero's wife as requested by his then mistress.

We really enjoy this island wandering around in the early evening and later sitting in the busy town square watching all the locals catching up on their news of the day. We have dinner on a terrace overlooking the sea watching the moon coming up with its reflections shining over the calm sea.

Unfortunately, there is a strong swell when we return to Impulsive but we still manage to have a reasonable sleep.

Leaving Ventotene

TUESDAY, 9 SEPTEMBER 2008

With a similar forecast to yesterday we leave in good time to track 35 n.miles just north of west to Isola Ponza. Again, we anchor outside in a small cove opposite a beach. There are other yachts and some large cruisers here. The clear turquoise waters are sensational to swim in here with colourful small blue fish that seem to enjoy the company.

Ponza viewed from the anchorage here

We only have 60 n.miles to go to Rome and excellent weather forecasts so we can have 2 relaxing nights here. Ross takes advantage of these conditions to scrub the hull of the boat. This is not a job to do in a marina with many other boats close by and not the cleanest of waters. The coating the hull had when Impulsive was out of the water in Phuket contains lead (apparently illegal to apply in Australian waters) has kept the hull in very good condition.

We seem to get many small fiddly jobs done without being under pressure for time.

Ponza is a very attractive town with its shop fronts, restaurants, and few hotels and houses set around the harbour. Houses rise up above with their colourful washes of rose, pinks, ochres, white and even blues, set amongst its productive green hills. The local red vine is highly recommended.

Because Ponza is relatively close to Rome it is a popular summer resort and we are advised that prices are extremely high here during July and August and then they drop. We discover the tourists have dropped off but not the costs eg. for dinner.

WEDNESDAY, 10 SEPTEMBER 2008

Today is very relaxed. We even have time to read.

We take a dinghy ride to explore the next few coves to explore the eroded rocks and cliff faces which have been naturally sculptured into fantastic shapes.

We go ashore later and enjoy another explore here and our last delicious (grilled baby calamari) dinner out in the islands. We notice the evenings are closing in much quicker now and there is definitely an edge on the night air.

THURSDAY, 11 SEPTEMBER 2008

We are greeted today by the most beautiful sunrise as we leave at 6am in a west of north direction for Rome. Daybreak is getting later now. Breakfast is interrupted by a visit from dolphins playing at the bow of the boat.

This trip is 60 n.miles and the conditions are flat calm. It's really lovely out here for our last day at sea for sometime.

We have some difficulty finding the marina we are booked into near Fumare Grande River. There are a few language problems and various names used for the same place.

As we come in it is welcoming to see the Henrys waving to us from Sweet Chariot (another Buizon) who we last saw in Larnaca marina in Cyprus. We catch up with their travels over dinner.

We have the next few days ahead to prepare Impulsive to leave her for the next 7 months. What a wonderful wealth of experiences we have had and now we are excited to be going home.

Favourite appetizer recipe this leg:

small zucchini thinly sliced

small eggplant, thinly sliced and allow to rest with a sprinkling of salt

2.5 strips of red peppers

Lightly pan fry (spray pan lightly with oil) above until tender, then set aside to cool on towelling.

On individual plates arrange the following to display their colours to advantage

- some of the above with freshly chopped Italian parsley and ground pepper; some fresh anchovy fillets in a small kos lettuce leaf, and a small serve of caprese salad each ie. sliced tomato with bocciccini cheese and fresh basil.