SUNDAY, 24 AUGUST 2008
A lovely start to the day is just sitting quietly near the Duomo, drawing and taking in the scene and atmosphere. There is such a colourful scene in the small port when we return to the dinghy, added to by many children swimming and playing with the sun glistening on the water on their healthy, sun-tanned bodies.
Later we leave Sicily mainland.
After the smaller ports in the Greek Islands where you tie up right in the town centre and everything is easily accessible, we found it difficult at first to feel part of the larger ports and touristy towns in Sicily. Also, in Greece everyone recognizes the Australian flag and makes you feel welcome straight away, as most Greeks have lived in Australia themselves or have friends or relatives living there.
As we could gradually communicate more easily as we picked up some Italian words and phrases, and especially when we came into the smaller ports and towns, we found the people to be more friendly and welcoming. Now we are great enthusiasts of Sicily.
We have seen the influence of the ancient Carthaginian days, the early Greeks, the Etruscans, the Spanish and the Romans through to Italy's unification in 1870 eg. the Norman and Baroque architecture and the different cuisines, eg. North African couscous with the fish in broth.
The Maffia have had a strong hold on society here for many years but we gather it is less invasive now. Ross thinks he saw someone leaving a shop with a gun two days ago, so who knows. The change of president will hopefully make a difference.
We motor the first section of our 6 hour trip to Isola Filicudi. This is our first stop in the Sicilian Aeolian Islands. There is no wind. It is calm and the sea is just the most unbelievable turquoise, changing to the mid-blues as it gets deeper. Later the wind comes up to 8-10 kts so we can motor sail. The skipper is always keen to get the sails up, even though we can't put the mainsail fully up until we buy the new baton. Also, a few clouds appear, and later a few spots of rain, neither of which we have seen for months. The barometer is steady so we are not worried about a change in the weather.
This area called the Aeolian triangle can blow up with strong weather like the Bemuda Triangle, so we are pleased the forecast for the next few days is calm with little wind.
Filicudi is a very small port with very few facilities. We go ashore for a walk and a simple pasta dinner. It is a beautiful calm night to be moored on a buoy but we are woken early with the swell that has loosened a stay which is knocking loudly on the deck. A broken sleep is always frustrating.
MONDAY, 25 AUGUST 2008
Off we go on our early morning jog/walk in towards the centre of the island. It is steep but with beautiful scenery as we head off along the coast road. We are looking for the prehistoric village from the Bronze Age, but miss the turn off. Late morning we set sail to circumnavigate this small island to view Faraglioni (a rock obelisks) and the blue grottos, eg. Grotto del Perclato Marino. 
The Grotto
Anchored to see the Grotto
The waters here are so clear and blue that sitting up in the pulpit seat at the bow of the yacht is a treat. You can feel the power of the boat as she plies through the water and enjoy watching all the other boats out here.
Anchored to see the Grotto
Ross has us leaving to reach our next destination in good time to try and ensure we can find a buoy to moor on. Salina is an attractive port to come into as we pass its high cliffs and wooded inland with many vines. We have troubles settling onto a buoy though. There are still several available and we just manage to organize ourselves when a very officious young man in a run-about tells us to move (this one is reserved) and points out another buoy. It is quite difficult to have the boat in the right position and then for Ross to lean out over the side and pull up the attachment rope. Most times a young man in this situation would help - it only takes 3 minutes - but he chose not to. I guess our lack of language doesn't help but most yachties and boat operators help one another. It was interesting to see all the yachts come in and it wasn't long before all the buoys were occupied.
Wandering about onshore up and down the main street with its attractive shops (clothes and wine shops and alimentaria). We don't know where all the people are as these places don't seem as well patronized as they usually are after a hot day. We have one of the best meals we have had tonight though. The stuffed baby calamari were delicious.
TUESDAY, 26 AUGUST 2008
Leaving Salina
We circumnavigate Filicudi Is. It is magic sitting in the pulpit seat at the bow of Impulsive as we cross over the most beautiful calm, azure blue waters. It is great to feel the boat surging through the water. We pass by the Faraglioni (obelisk of rock), and anchor off the Blue Grotto to take the dinghy in to see the sun shining through the different tones of blue and turquoise.
Scott recommends a visit to Volcano Island. It is quite a phenomena to sit in a small, natural spa with its warm, pale green water and hot bubbles rising up like springs. Sometimes your feet feel they are being scorched if you stand on one of the sources of the bubbles. You look up to see the volcano smoking out its crater.
Arriving at Lipari
We are pleased to be moored at Lipari in good time. This is the most colourful of the Aeolian Islands we have seen. The people here are very friendly. The mooring guy was particularly helpful, and when we went ashore some kind person had taken the dinghy further up the beach to ensure it was safe with the large washes from all the ferries.
We stroll up the busy main street and then up through some narrow back streets past the some lovely residential areas, and then up long, steep stairway to the Cathedral and castle. The streets are too narrow for cars so they use motorized carts or motorbikes. There isn't much room for pedestrians as well.
View from the Cathedral
Tonight we just feel like a home cooked meal so have dinner on the yacht. This is a good decision, as later there is seriously heavy rain. If we had been ashore we would have been soaked through, and all the hatches and portholes would have been open, as there was no warning of this except a few clouds. We are pleased for the boat to have a good wash down.
WEDNESDAY, 27 AUGUST 2008
This is a good morning to visit the archaeological museum, as there are still heavy downpours of rain, which is wonderful for the island.
This museum depicts the history, particularly of Lipari, with its pottery starting from the mid-Neolithic and Bronze Ages in order through to Roman times. The impressive displays of the burial urns are as they were found in situ in the ground. There is also a treasured collection of Greek theatrical masks. There are fine examples of Obsidian, the black, natural glass which erupts from the volcano after the emission of the pumice. It is fragile.
We have another short passage to Panarea. This find this island hopping is very relaxing, and really enjoy this life style.
Swimming here off the boat moored just off the beach is a treat.
Panarea
Ashore we find this island's individuality is its Greek style white washed houses. Carts are also used here to manage the steep, narrow alleyways. It is peaceful sitting and drawing looking over the small harbour with the late sun shining on boats and the large rocks rising up out of the water offshore.
We have a drink at the famous Hotel Raya, looking over Stromboli at sunset, with the oil lamps lit to add to the atmosphere. It is really fun seeing all the young here and what they are wearing. Panarea has a real holiday atmosphere.
Sunset at Raya Resort
THURSDAY, 28 AUGUST 2008
We wake up to see the contrast of the high, rocky escarpment covered with green, cactus-type plants with yellow flowers rising up next to the bluest of blue sea. An early morning swim is a must.
Today is a short northerly motor-sail to Stromboli. It is a constant view of this permanently active volcano with smoke soaring from its crater.
It takes time to anchor as the depths here are hundreds of metres dropping straight down very close to shore. We anchor just off the beach. It is amusing to see people enjoying this beach with its black sand. It brings to mind the wonderful beaches in Australia.
The evidence of the rich black soil here is striking with the lushness of the plants with flowers cascading everywhere. The narrow streets are steep and carts are used here too.
We set off along the very narrow main road following the coast and then ascend up to the observatory for dinner. Watching the sunset over the sea is a bonus. As dark falls you can see the torch lights of people and their guides climbing to the crater. From here it is exciting to see the red fiery explosions from the volcano.
We hadn't planned doing this so we don't have a torch to walk back down this very rocky and uneven path. It is a very clear, starry night but with no moonlight yet. We get off to a stumbling start and then are lucky to catch up to a couple with torches, so we can follow in this light.
It is still very dark back in the town because there are no streetlights as the power on the island is from generators.
We are always relieved to find the dinghy where we have left it. It is a magnificent night to be out on the water - not a ripple anywhere.
FRIDAY, 29 AUGUST 2008
Waking at 5.30pm means we can leave in good time for a 10 hour trip to mainland Italy, and marks the end of another section of the trip. The weather forecast is excellent so we head off motor sailing due north, leaving behind views of Stromboli, the northernmost Aeolian Island.
Stromboli Volcano
We find there is a fine black coverage of fine dust and particles over the boat from the volcano debris. We wonder how people make the decision to live here under an active volcano. Perhaps with modern technology they have enough warning to evacuate in time and it is chilling to see the signs for this. The last eruption was in 2007.
We have a good sail for several hours with 15 knots of wind during our 10 hour crossing to Italy's mainland. It is hazy as this coastline comes into view. This has been typical in Sicily too, and can make identifying landmarks difficult. Thank goodness for the GPS and chart plotter.
This western coast of Italy is very attractive with its heavily wooded mountains reaching down to the coast with its many coves and beaches. We anchor at Capo Palinuro with its beautiful, colourful and well cared for beach surrounded by farmlands at the foot of the mountains. Swimming in the waters here is brilliant.
