SICILY - PART IV
SUNDAY, 17 AUGUST 2008
We start the day with the repeat of yesterday's exercise programme. After an excellent sleep last night we are feeling very fit and well.
We have a wonderful sail averaging 7kts across to the coast to Trapani. This makes the skipper particularly happy. We pass by Isole Formicaone one of 2 flat islets, which has a tunny factory on it which looks as though it is built on the sea.
Isole Formicaone
Both the yacht club and the marina are fully booked for the next couple of days, so we are pleased to have Hermut's advice to use the relatively new buoys near the yacht club. This is a great place to be and only a short dinghy ride to shore. They are also free. The marinas at this time of the year are extremely expensive.It is a chilling sight coming in to see a hydrofoil has driven up onto the groyne near the starboard marker. Thankfully, no one was killed, which amazes us when we look at it. We have been told the driver was drunk, but this is probably a rumour. Also we are told the drivers are paid now per trip so they come in and out of these harbours at high speed to make as many trips as possible.
Trapani is not busy and we really enjoy wandering through the lovely old town. We had planned to eat on the boat tonight but the atmosphere is very relaxed here, and it is such an attractive place with its old baroque palazzi, beautifully paved and elegant streets, and with the attraction of an outdoor karaoke session later in a small concert square, we stay ashore. There are several remarkable churches and we are attracted to go inside by their wonderful singing and music. This is more modern than usual and must help to encourage the larger congregations that are there.
For dinner we both try a trapani local dish, pasta alla Trapanese, a pasta of hand twirled pasta, called busiate, with a pesto of garlic, crushed almonds, small tomatoes and basil. This is just delicious and is accompanied by a local red wine.
The two main artists at the concert square have wonderful voices and it is happens to be a full moon. Our best entertainment is a gorgeous little girl, about 3 1/2, who is full of the joys of life and is in full swing with the music and singing. It makes us more conscious of how much we are looking forward to seeing our grandchildren again and having fun with them.
We have been told that this weekend is the end of the height of the season. Also, just suddenly the last few nights have been noticeably cooler - we need a sheet over us.
MONDAY, 18 AUGUST 2008
Today we explore nearby on a motorbike. We zig-zag up the steep mountain near the cable car route to Erice with its views below of the typical Sicilian landscape and the surrounding blue seas.
Views over Erice
It is a lovely place to wander through the cobbled streets, seeing the castle and several impressive churches, including one with an exhibition of wax figures made by nuns during C16. We have glimpses into the inner courtyards of some of the houses, and inside the homes themselves. Many have been tastefully renovated.
Views over EriceTrattoria Dei serve us a local traditional lunch. Prima course is aubergine stuffed with slices of ricotta cheese and topped with homemade tomato sauce with lashings of garlic, and a slice of Mozarella cheese. Seconda course is busiate served with prawns, crushed almonds etc. Ross is enjoying the local Biria Moretti. We have been looking forward to Italian food and we certainly are enjoying it. The waistline will need attention at a later date. Fortunately we both lose weight when we are sailing, so that should solve the problem.
Then we navigate our way back down the mountain and further down the coast south of Trapani. From here we catch a small ferry which wends its way through a canal cut through the flat salt pans, passing the old windmills and over the old Phoenician road (only 1 m. below the sea here) which connects the island to the mainland. On this Panteleo Is. is Mozia of ancient times, situated similarly to many other Phoenician settlements on a small island near the coast surrounded by shallow water, so it was easy to defend and gave a safe anchorage for its ships. It was founded in C8 B.C.
Modise - the old settlement
The bike trip itself is mainly through countryside and small towns. It has been a great day but perhaps a bit much to tackle on a bike. Ross drives very safely but we worry about other drivers on the road.
Robbie and Phil have arrived in Trapani ready to meet Sam on Friday. Ross manages to secure a booking over the phone with his little Italian in a restaurant we found last night in the Jewish quarter. It was difficult to find and it was still closed when we arrived there at 7pm. We decided to try to come here the following night, especially when we read a small label naming it no.1 Italian restaurant 2007.
This trattoria has a humble frontage and has the very appealing wine bar next door. The cuisine certainly lives up to its reputation. The local red wine is also very good. It is a lovely, balmy night to stroll back through the old part of town which is still lively with some music and groups of young people.
TUESDAY, 19 AUGUST 2008
We are sorry to be missing Sam and Andrew Mellett but need to continue on with our schedule. We track further north and then east for several n. miles to Scopello. The coastline along here is very attractive with lots of greenery, dramatic rocks and cliff faces, and interest, eg another disused tunny factory and many small boats hugging the coast.
Scopello is referred to as "one of the most idyllic coves of Sicily". Unfortunately, we can only stop here briefly as the wind comes up and we are unprotected with an accompanying 1m. swell. The weather report is very wrong today, so after a brief swim we pull up the anchor and move on.
Scopola
The skipper is not happy as we bash into the waves with up to 30kts. of wind against us. We track across the bay to Terrasini with both sails up and just a few degrees off course to steady the boat. Mooring in here is the most difficult time we have experienced doing this, with a stern to tie-up. We thought the guys helping suggested tying up along side the quay which we managed easily, but they thought we needed fuel. It is obviously the fuel dock so we have to move. It is a small port with not much room for manoeuvring Impulsive. There is still a lot of wind and the boat is being pushed down towards the next boat. Once tied up we are pleased we can manage this situation reasonably competently now. It can be quite nerve wracking. The local port control men are very helpful as well, as all the Italians have been. It would help if our Italian was better but they always get their meaning across eventually, especially with their gesticulations.
Terrasini is busy with holidaymakers, including a lot of young people. There is nothing special here, but we are pleased to be here with little damage to the boat. Because of the light weather report Ross had the full mainsail up this afternoon and, at some stage, one of the batons came loose in the sail. We will have to wait until the wind drops out to put the sail up and check if there is a problem.
WEDNESDAY, 20 AUGUST 2008
There is no wind early this morning so we put the sail up for inspection. Firstly, the topping lift is fine and, secondly, one baton is broken but with no damage to the mainsail, so all is well.
The weather forecast is the same as for yesterday so we leave early for Isola Delle Femmine Marine, a small nature reserve island around the n.west cape of Sicily. This is a relatively short distance and we should get there before the wind comes up. A local port control officer led Ross to believe it is going to be the same as yesterday.
Isola del Femmine
We have a relaxation day moored on a buoy at the tiny Isola delle Femmine. This nature reserve proves to be very popular during the day with a couple of yachts and many smart run-abouts fully occupying the other buoys all day. The latter seem to be the latest craze here. People can get to many beautiful places here easily and quickly and enjoy a day swimming and relaxing in the sun. It’s lovely to see the children have such a great time, and they look so healthy with the sun glistening on their tanned, wet skin.
We follow-up on jobs on the boat, have several swims and later try our hand at taking up Warren's suggestion of washing our sketches with watercolours. This is great fun and certainly brings the subjects more to life.
A walk around the island at sunset is spectacular.
THURSDAY, 21 AUGUST 2008
We motor in really calm conditions to Palermo, the capital of Sicily. The coastline is rugged, mountainous and with some greenery. There are attractive small towns by the sea scattered all along.
Palermo Marina
The marina guys here are particularly friendly and helpful. They organize an electrician and translator to come within the hour. They discover salt has got into the winch operations causing problems with the mainsail furling system, so service it and have it organized quickly.
The other issue is with the tri-colour and anchor lights. We are disappointed when Ross goes up to the top of the mast - the connection which was re-fitted only 2 years ago is deteriorating without enough protection. The electricians return in the morning but say we must replace the part. We spend time waiting for them only to find they say the part is not available in Italy, and we will have to get one sent from Australia.
We walk about Palermo to get our bearings.
Postage seems to be a real issue in Sicily. We are trying to post our postcards to the grandchildren. We see many red post boxes but they are all closed and not operating. After asking several people we find we have the same reply - we must go to the post office. We walk some distance to find it and cannot believe that it has no post boxes outside and it is closed. Fortunately the marina office can post them for us because we have a supply of Italian stamps. Our previous incidence with postage was at Taormina. We tried to post our weekly postcards to the children in Tabbachis, as we were used to in the Greek islands. We soon learned we had to go to the post office. This was a very long walk, it was hot and when we finally found it there were endless queues - it was pension pay day! That's why we now have a supply of stamps.
We cross the Quattro Canti, the centre of the city, with its curved facades to make a circle. We sit in the baroque style Chiesa di San Giuseppe dei Teatini and take in the peace there. This area has many impressive churches and mansions. We wander over to the historic C14 Piazza Marina where the headquarters of the Spanish Inquisition once were beside the tranquil Garibaldi gardens. There are now many restaurants in this area and we enjoyed dinner under the 150 year old Ficus Benjamin tree. On Scott's advice Ross enjoys a Sicilian pizza.
FRIDAY, 22 AUGUST 2008
We walk to the market (Mercato della Vuccirla) very early. It is always good to stock up on the fresh local produce. Ross also finds several gadgets for the yacht that he has been looking out for eg. an extending magnet. It is an experience to sit and have an orange juice and lemon custard pastry and watch and listen to the locals. We are gradually picking up some more Italian words.
We have to return to Impulsive for the electricians. After they have done all they can we set off walking again a long way to catch a bus 8ks out of town to Cathedral Monreale. We just missed the bus but luckily found a taxi as it is a 50 min. wait until the next one, and we have limited time to be back for the electricians. William II had this most beautiful cathedral built. It is an excellent example of Norman architecture and the mosaics, finished in C12, are magnificent describing the important stories of the Old Testament. Mosaics also decorate the columns which surround the peaceful courtyard of the adjoining cloisters.
Cathedral Monreale
We just make it back for the electricians who are delayed. With the efficient Internet connection here we have a Skype session with Scott and Heather and family. Modern technology is amazing – we feel we are actually visiting them. Anna gives us a piano recital and we can even see her hands playing as well as hearing the music. We had long phone conversations with Steve and Meg’s children recently and so enjoy keeping in touch with them all.
The electricians don’t return because they are unable to replace the part, so we later walk into the Garibaldi Gardens area again to a restaurant the marine manager recommends. Local knowledge is always the best. (We came back to find the electricians had come to see us and return the disintegrated part. This was on a Saturday night so they had a very long day starting with us at 8.30 am.)
SATURDAY, 23 AUGUST 2008
An early morning visit to the medieval Matorana Church and the neighbouring Arab/Norman style Chiesa di Sancataldo with its unusual small pink domes, near the main piazza starts the day.
Chiesa di Sancataldo
We have a final provisioning trip to the market and supermarket.After a relaxed stay at Palermo we leave for a 6 hour motor sail westwards to Cefalu. It is glorious out on the sparkling waters today, using little power from the engine and with both sails up. We really enjoy the Sicilian coast as before. We must anchor 300m off shore here or you can suffer a fine of E100. Swimming off the back of the boat here is exceptional – wonderful scenery looking into the old town, the Duomo in the background, beautiful beaches lined with colourful umbrellas, and high mountains set further back covered with greenery.
Main beach at Cefalu
The evening lights come on as we go into shore. We have dinner at the foot of the well-lit Duomo and enjoy the pianist here. The gelati ice creams are still a favourite as we walk down the narrow cobbled alleyways to the dinghy.
