SICILY - PART III
TUESDAY, 12 AUGUST 2008
We take a dinghy ride across to the old town. It doesn't take long to walk through here as it is so small. The piazza is attractive with its baroque buildings, although some are in need of renovation. We enjoy a visit to the art gallery here, followed by a morning cup of coffee and share a delicious croissant and cream (custard).
Marzamemi - -Old Town
After a refreshing swim on the sea we set off to motor sail for about 4 hours to Pozzallo. We had access to electricity and water at the last marina (even though we were rafted up), so we enjoy being able to anchor here and enjoy the space. We can use the water maker to keep up our water supplies but it is good to have the opportunity to wash down the boat when we are on shore supplies. Also it is lovely being able to swim off the back of the boat.
Ross and Amanda go ashore to organize her ticket back to Catania to catch her plane home to London. At the marina they have a lovely experience after asking a couple where the train station is. Italo and Patricia suggest the bus is the best option and offer to drive them to the terminus to purchase a ticket and then back to the dinghy at the marina. Ross invites them out to Impulsive. Italo was born in Catania and they now live in Milan. They are also enthusiastic sailors.
The Melletts join us here later. This is possibly the last time we'll see them before we return to Melbourne next month. It is also Amanda's last night with us. Sam and Andrew Mellett are joining Free Spirit in a week. It would have been fun if it had coincided with Amanda's time with us.
After drinks on Free Spirit we have dinner at a typical local restaurant suggested by the people we were with this afternoon. They are unable to join us, unfortunately, as they are catching up with family. Amazingly, we see Italo sitting on his balcony as we walk to the restaurant. This is a real coincidence as we have no idea where they are staying.
The eggplant and pasta dish is the favourite tonight. We follow this up with a Greek tradition of a gelati in the main square where it is quite lively and has some live music playing. The finale is a nightcap on Impulsive.
WEDNESDAY, 13 AUGUST 2008
After an early morning walk/jog we take Amanda into shore to see her off on the bus. She is a competent crew and we have had lots of fun. It has been a special time too with all the discussions about weddings and brides and future plans. We just hope we can make it to the wedding.
After speaking to Italo and Patricia we have decided to do an overnight sail along the southern coast and up the west coast to Marsala. This involves passing by Agrigento with its well known ancient ruins, but we can't do it all. We have a lovely afternoon sailing close by the coast. It is very attractive with rolling hills, studded with trees, many coastal towns and long stretches of beaches. The sea is calm and a beautiful blue with several fishing boats and yachts about.
Tonight is balmy and still the sea is calm with an almost full moon to see by and enjoy. Night sailing in these conditions is just wonderful. We are still tracking close to the coast, so can see the lights from the towns along the way. There is a lot of action out here tonight. Yachts are traveling in the same direction as us, fishing boats are going across in front and behind us, in and out to shore, and there are many large cargo ships, some anchored and some traveling further out. There is little time for reading!
THURSDAY, 14 AUGUST 2008
I wake up just as we come into Masarla port at about 11am. This is quite a testing stern-to mooring as the quay arms are not far apart with little turning space. Thank goodness for the bow thrusters.
It is a long walk into the old town which is lovely with its large limestone pavers and its many Marsala tasting cellars. We have a slow food movement lunch at Garibaldi traditional trattoria. This is very appropriate for 2 tired people after an overnight sail. The anti-pasta dishes are delicious. Couscous is a traditional dish in Sicily. We don't think we can manage anti-pasta, then first courses, then mains, not to mention dessert. We tried the dry Marsala which doesn't suit our palates. We think the sweet Marsala will be too sweet, but we will try it next time.
Garibaldi Trattoria
The Flemish tapestries of Masarla are exhibited in some adjoining buildings to the Mother Church of Masarla. They are eight in number and depict the war of the Romans against the Hebrews.
Marsala
We find advertisements to a concert and light dinner just out of town. A young man stops to see if he can help us. He says it is only 7ks. out of town and is a lovely place with panoramic views. He kindly reappears 10 minutes later with his mobile phone, just as we have dialed the number, so he books it for us. We really look forward to this, with the added benefit of the full moon. However, it's not to be. We can't hire a car anywhere, so we head off in the dinghy in our determination. Some n.miles later we realize this is too far and turn back. This is a wise decision as the wind is coming up. We then try to find a taxi which we do and then have a language problem. All is sorted, until the driver says the concert is 25 ks. away and if he picks us up as well it will cost E75. (about $120-), so we give up and have a lovely dinner in the old town at a trattoria with a marvelous guitarist and singer, and a view of the duomo which is lit up.
FRIDAY, 15 AUGUST 2008
We take Impulsive over to the fuel dock at 6.30am because we noticed yesterday people were queuing for diesel and this would be very difficult for us in the tight space available. We are tied up ready when the operator opens at 7am. I have a counting lesson in Italian with him as we read the bowser dial for Ross. It is the pronunciation which I need most help with. It's all good fun.
We have a great sail to the Egadi Islands, even though it's only 10n.miles. We go into Favignana port which is very small and crowded. We are very pleased to find a place we can just manage to anchor in when someone warns us the huge ferries need turning space there. So we anchor just outside.
Favignana is famous for its past tuna fishing industry. It is particularly busy here, and we are unable to hire a bike (cycling or motor) anywhere. After a relaxing lunch in the town square we go back to the boat. It's very hot and Ross needs to catch up on some sleep. This is fortunate because the wind comes up and is forecast to be much stronger - force 7 - and in a direction that will make this anchorage untenable. As we take up the anchor we realize every one is moving from here. The people on a nearby yacht have brought out a diver because they are unable to get their anchor up, which is a worry in this situation. We sail the few n.miles across to Levanzo Island to the delightful cove just past the tiny port here.
Levanzo
The wind has come up already and it takes time to find a secure place to tie up the dinghy to go ashore at dusk. Some small boats and dinghies are being tossed around in the surge. We arrive in time to see what we think is a funeral procession. Everyone who lives on the island seems to be involved, including a band. There are only two places to eat here. Albergo Paradiso is very attractive, set up high and with delicious traditional cuisine. It is very popular. We don't have a reservation but they manage to fit us in. For a small island they certainly know how to charge.
This anchorage proves to be secure. We see some boats come and leave because there isn't much room. There are only 4 yachts here overnight. Unfortunately we are woken at 1.30am when one drags anchor, but we are really just pleased it doesn't happen to us. Luckily we can sleep in.
SATURDAY, 16 AUGUST 2008
We start the day with a run around the coast to the next cove. 
Nearby Cove
It is small and already has people swimming there in its beautiful waters. When we get back Ross picks up my clothes and shoes in the dinghy and the long swim back to the yacht is great. He swims out to meet me so enjoys a swim too.We realize we are very tired after some broken nights sleep and traveling quite constantly for some time, so we have a relaxing day on the boat. It is a lovely cove here and during the day it becomes quite crowded with other boats, from large cruises and yachts to small run-abouts. It is only an hour from the mainland, so many are weekend day trippers. We enjoy hearing some young families having a fun summers day.
Hermut, an Austrian from a nearby catamaran, swims over. He is a very interesting person, running a livestock air-transport business, including tigers, snakes, and even koalas. Many clients are people moving their pets when they are moved themselves by a company. A large percentage of their work is for zoos, including moving males from zoo to zoo to prevent inbreeding and to keep the genetic pool as large as possible.
He is pleased we can give him a weather report, and we appreciate advice for mooring in Trapani, our next planned stop.
Ross cooks up a splendid prawn risotto for dinner and we watch the end of a DVD "Around the World in 80 Days" with Michael Palin. It's taken us 2 months to watch the whole series because we rarely use a DVD, but when we do it's very relaxing.
