FOLEGRANDOS TO HYDRA

FOLEGRANDOS TO HYDRA

SATURDAY, 19 JULY 2008

We have spasmodic sailing in a n.west direction to the very small and rugged island of Folegrandos and anchor on the western side of the island at Angali Beach, in Vathi Bay. It is lovely swimming here.

Hilltop Hora on Foliangros Is.
View from Hora

We catch the bus up the island's steep ridge to the capital of Hora, a beautiful little village but tending to be a bit touristy. We enjoy an evening drink in the town centre where no cars are allowed under the shade of very old trees and watch as many well-dressed people walk by. Tonight they are holding one of their festival music concerts billed as the best available on the island.

Hilltop cafe at Hora (Folegrandos)

We take the bus back down to a restaurant by the water, as recommended by a local, for a very relaxed dinner. Ross is happier here where he can keep an eye on Impulsive.

Folegrandos has been used as a political prison since Roman times up until the C20.

SUNDAY, 20 JULY 2008

This morning we take a dinghy ride to the beach at the neighbouring small cove. Yesterday afternoon we saw endless small ferries taking people (again well-heeled) to and from this beach. It is well worth it, as we have one of our best swims ever. It is such a delight not to be worrying about what might be in the water, eg. sharks, stingrays, jellyfish or stonefish. The water still has a high salt content, so floating is a very relaxing pastime here.

Soon we leave in a n.westerly direction for Poliegos. We go off course so we can enjoy one and a half hours sailing and then motor up into the wind to the anchorage. This is a very secluded little island with a beautiful setting and nothing there but an old ruin. We enjoy the contrast between these quiet places and the busier ones like Santorini.

It takes Ross and Michael some time to put out a strong mooring line (a warp) from the stern. Kerrie and I have time to paint which is a real treat. Ross spoils us and makes a delicious salad nicoise for dinner.

MONDAY, 21 JULY 2008

Sailing past Klima

We start off with a good sail, and then the wind drops out, and we motor in a westerly direction to Milos close to its striking coastline with its post volcanic rocks of stunning shapes and colours. We tie up stern to the dock at Adamas. A Dutch family with two teenage boys pull in alongside us. They are great fun to have as neighbours.

Milos has a high mineral content. It now produces bentonite and perlite.

We ride motorbikes high up to the Plaka, the capitol of the island. It has wonderful views across the Gulf of Milos. We have a drink at "Utopia" to take all this in. Ross is not impressed with the prices here - $35 for 3 beers and a mineral water. This is the same as it was in Santorini - about quadruple the price for everything. We wander through the narrow streets and their whitewashed courtyards, balconies with brightly coloured flowers, old churches and museums. It is also well worth the walk up to the summit, Castro, even though it's hot, to see the views down across the farmlands with their newly baled hay, and out across to the very calm and blue sea. It is also interesting to watch other yachts coming in.

Castro was first inhabited when the island was constantly under pirate attack. Many of the hilltop villages were built for this reason.

We meet Kerrie and Michael for dinner as planned back down the hill at Barkos family restaurant. This is very relaxed, great Greek cuisine and back to sensible prices.

Unfortunately, we come ahead of Kerrie and Michael and don't realize they have had a spill off their bike. Thankfully, they are both alright physically but poor Kerrie is very shaken. We offer to go back to the boat with them but they think a drink, or two, and a good dinner should help.

When we get back into Adamas we can't believe the transformation from a quiet seaside town with not many people about to a place that is really buzzing with people everywhere. The place is lively with music. A yacht not far from us has four talented musicians playing and singing on the back of their boat.

TUESDAY, 22 JULY 2008

The man who delivers our fuel is charming. He has a cup of tea with us and invites us to his station, "farm" and house.

Kerrie bravely comes on the bike again. This isn't easy for her but Michael is taking all care. Our first stop is to our new friend's place. The Greek's are overwhelming with their hospitality. He gives us at least a week's provisions from his veggie garden.

Next we wind our way up a very steep road to Klima. This is built around a small protected cove. The cave-like boathouses have been dug out of soft rock for protection against the strong north winds. Over the years they have been extended, improved and brightly painted and are now used as permanent homes by fishermen and as summer houses for holiday-makers. A fruit and veggie man is there with his ute and scales. We try to buy a cantaloupe which he slices for us to share, but he insists on giving it to us. This is a very efficient way for the locals to shop.

We pass by the old catacombs on our climb back up to Tripiti with its picturesque windmills and its imposing church built in 1880.

We are not so successful in finding the two recommended beaches we look for. We see more of the island though, including farms, market gardens and the mineral plants. On our way back we find a local beach which is lovely for a quick swim and which has many young families there laughing and having fun.

Ross is keen to leave for our next destination, Sifnos, to get there in the light. Kerrie and Michael decide to stay here and have a quiet day or two so Kerrie can have a proper relax before they meet other friends for a week in Italy. We are sorry they won't be with us for the next two days to Hydra but understand. I would do the same. It is lovely to just stay put for a while when you are travelling. So we say good-bye after a wonderful time together, and lots of fun.

FAVOURITE RECIPE:

Shrimps and calamari shasliks cooked on the barbecue (one shrimp one and one calamari one each, cooked separately as the calamari needs a little longer

Serve with : tamarind sauce

wild rice

greens eg. asparagus if available

salad

Ross and I get underway for Sifnos. We were originally going to Seferos but our Dutch neighbours are going to Sifnos and the Melletts are there with Andrew and his partner. They all persuade us this is a good idea.

The island used to have gold and silver mining until C5 B.C., and now has a long tradition of pottery making.

There are views across the port, which are surrounded by high mountains.

Drinks on Free Spirit followed by a delicious dinner in a taverna ashore is a good way to the end the day. We always enjoy the stimulating company of the younger ones.

WEDNESDAY, 23 JULY 2008

Ross and I wake at 4am. as a big swell comes in. We are sure we can't go back to sleep so we get underway. The trip to Hydra will be about 10 hours and we want to make the most of our time there. We both have a sleep on the way. We sail with the headsail only for a while, then with both sails. Unfortunately, the wind drops out and we then have to motor all the way with no wind, and for some time there is a strong swell. Later the wind comes up enough in the right direction to flatten it out and this is very relaxing with the calmer seas.

During this trip we realize we must sort out our timing to be in Rome as planned to fly home (we have booked our flights). We have so enjoyed just relaxing in the Greek Islands and soaking in their culture, beauty and climate it is quite a surprise to find we need to do some planning ahead.

Coming along Hydra's n.east coast is barren. We come into anchor in a small cove, Mandraki.

Tying up stern-to

Mandraki

We are just happily settled when a man swims out to suggest we anchored over lots of old anchors and tyres, and that we should be stern to the rocks. This manoeuvre is difficult here and takes us ages. It seems strange too because several other boats about our size have simply anchored. However, we would never ignore a local's advice, and fouling one's anchor is a problem.

After a refreshing swim we make the short dinghy ride around to Hydra town. It is the only place during this leg of our trip we have visited before and are pleased to see little has changed since 1978! There are more up-market shops and tavernas but little else is different. The small harbour is still filled with yachts and small fishing boats. Donkeys and mules still wait at the waterfront to carry luggage. It is lovely to meander back up from the waterfront through the narrow alley ways lined with jewellery, clothing shops and galleries towards the houses which have red tiled roofs.

Hydra

We return to Mandraki and, after an evening's drawing session from the dinghy, we go to a local taverna for dinner.

LEAVING HYDRA FOR THE PELOPONNESE

LEAVING HYDRA FOR THE PELOPONNESE

WEDNESDAY, 23 JULY 2008 (Cont.)

Ross is sitting where he can watch Impulsive while we order dinner. He is concerned we are tied up so close to the shore. He soon notices the mast has moved a little closer to shore as the strong n. westerly wind comes up. The holding here with the wind coming in this direction will be untenable, so he quickly leaves and goes in the dinghy to check. In the meantime, the restaurant holds our dinner and agree they can put it in take-away packaging if necessary. Ross confirms we have to leave immediately so this is what we do, having a sip of our wine as we go. The people here have been very considerate and understanding. As we return to Impulsive we realize all the other boats have left or are pulling up their anchors to do so.

It takes us some time to get away as Ross has us so securely tied up to this stern to mooring. We are relieved to finally be underway and without any damage to the boat. Once organized we enjoy the dinner. We plan to sail overnight to the Corinth Canal, but at about midnight the wind comes up more and soon we are bashing straight into it, making little headway. We decide to find shelter at 2am in a small cove outside the channel to Poros. We drop the anchor for the rest of the night. What a relief to be in calm waters and falling into bed.

THURSDAY, 24 JULY 2008

Poros

We wake early and up anchor at 5.30am to get underway while it's still calm. These meltemi winds seem to come up in the afternoon. What a gem of a place Ross chose to anchor at. As we pass up the narrow canal we wish we have time to stop here. You can sense there is a lovely atmosphere here. We read later it is a popular holiday destination from Athens. The town is on one side with charming architecture of the old houses along the channel and its whitewashed houses with their red tiled roofs you can see in the narrow alley ways leading up high to the clock tower and cathedral. Some people are up and about already preparing for the day . We are close enough to shore to see people going in and out of the bakery. On the other side you look over to the mountainous Peloponnese.

All is calm until 9.30am when 30kt winds (the scale of 6-7) come up against us in the more exposed seas here, and we are lucky to make 3kts boat speed. None of this was apparent in the forecasts, and it is frustrating they are so often wrong in these areas. We would never leave on a passage with a forecast like this. We wonder if we are going around the world the wrong way! To continue like this is unpleasant and hard on the boat so we turn back and anchor in a lovely cove at Poros. We have time to explore here after all and enjoy it very much.

FRIDAY, 25 JULY 2008

Again we set off early, hopeful with a reasonable forecast from sea mail weather. We went in to see the port officials yesterday and they only give a forecast from 7am each morning. Also we have learned that they give lower wind forecasts than expected because they don't want the tourist ferries to be cancelled. Again we experience 30 kts of wind against us. The seas rise up and are very choppy, so we give in and head in through many fish farms to anchor at a deep inlet south of Korfos called Ormos Selounda, which is part of the Peloponnese. Again, the skipper has found a lovely anchorage surrounded by high mountains, barren up high and wooded lower down.

We meet other very friendly and helpful yachties here all waiting for the right weather window to get through to the Corinth Canal. The main issue is that you need to wait until there is a good forecast to get to the canal and then another one for when you come out into the Corinth Bay. The latter can have very strong seas and winds against you and, if the small Corinth marina is full, it is a long distance until you can find protection. Apparently, the heavy winds we are experiencing are coming across from the Adriatic. There isn't a good weather window until Monday so we look forward to exploring the beautiful Peloponnese. Not many tourists come to this area apparently, but it is a favourite area for Greek people.

These same people encourage us to move Impulsive and bring her in stern to the quay for better protection. This means we step off the boat and can sit down at the restaurant for a very late (3.30pm) and lengthy lunch. We check the weather on the Internet with a Swiss man who has some fancy adaptor. There is no Internet cafe here.

Unfortunately, the restaurateur wasn't happy with where we dropped our anchor as much as we tried to do as he requested (they want to fit boats in as tightly as possible and to avoid fouling anchors). This set the tone for a while but all is well when we leave. It is a great benefit to have Impulsive well secured to go off for the day.

We are told there is an open air concert on tonight 30 ks away at Epidhavros in its well preserved classical theatre. We are very disappointed to find we cannot get transport there at this late stage. In this tiny place there are no car hire places available and the taxi won't take us in to Corinth until tomorrow to hire a car. This is a 45 minute drive. We are very tired so we have a light dinner on board and a good sleep ready to leave early tomorrow morning.

SATURDAY, 26 JULY 2008

THE PELOPONNESE

We drive in the taxi to Corinth through green wooded countryside with an abundance of olive trees. The seas look benign. At Corinth the winds are strong and the seas are big. A motor cruiser tried to go out and came back in after 5 n.miles. We are pleased to have made the right decision.

The old Corinth town was destroyed years ago by earthquakes and is now a sprawling, featureless town. This is partly because the buildings have been replaced with modern, concrete ones that can resist earthquakes better. The old town site is worthy of a visit apparently, but we didn't make it.

We drive along the coast road with its views and turn off up a very steep incline with high escarpments beside a steep sided Vouraikos gorge to Zahlorou, about 100ks. from Corinth, and its small train station. This small train is a highlight of the area. Unfortunately, the train is under repair but we can follow near its track anyway. It is very beautiful here by a running creek and well shaded with many plain trees. It's also cooler. We go back down to Diakofto, a small seaside town where the train ride begins. Many olive and lemon trees grow in this area, and you can look back up to the high mountains above where there are numerous chalets for the ski season. We have lunch at Costas run by a family who have lived in Australia for many years.

We drive back along the coast road towards the wine area and turn off to the Nemea wine road. The countryside here is an agricultural belt amongst rolling hills. Some of the wineries are perched up high and we were amazed the vines look so healthy where they must have to withstand high winds. We have a tasting at a smaller, more personal vineyard and buy some Kthma from the local grape and Cabernet Sauvignon.

This has been many hours of driving for Ross but a lovely "Greek" experience that we hadn't planned.

When we arrive back to Impulsive a young German family have pulled in beside us and are great fun. After dinner on shore off the stern of the yacht we have drinks with the Swiss skipper, Alan, and his crew. The latters cousin, also from Switzerland, is with them and she has been living on the island for 10 years since she was widowed at an early age. She is very informative about the life and culture here. She goes "home" for 4 months a year to ski.

PELOPONNESE, DELPHI AND THE IONIANS

PELOPONNESE, DELPHI AND THE IONIANS

SUNDAY, 27 JULY 2008

We are up very early to move the boat out to drop the anchor. First we have hot apple pastries from the bakery. Last night the guys on the quay ask us to move on. We aren't so pleased about this because we plan to leave the boat for the day and enjoy the security of being tied up. The issue is they have a large number of charter boats coming in and they usually have a lot of crew on board who will eat at this taverna. They don't charge us to tie up here so the taverna is their livelihood, and so when we come in with only two crew they prefer us to move on sooner rather than later. So we get our ration of water and move off. Unfortunately, the guys here have very explosive manners but, once they explain to us why, we are happy. The woman we spoke with says the water truck comes to her every three days. The water shortage here is serious and so we can't wash down the boat. Apparently, there are similar restrictions in some yacht clubs in Melbourne now.

We set off to make a round trip to Delphi along the spectacular coast road towards Athens, just getting a glimpse of the canal as we pass over the top of it, and then turn off in a n.west direction to Thebes passing through rolling hills of agricultural countryside with many acres of potatoes being grown and harvested. The disastrous bushfires are just north of Athens. We then start winding our way up the slopes of Mount Parnassus to Delphi, an amazing site set high up on the cliff tops. This is the site of the ancient temple and oracle of Apollo in Greece. It was the centre of the world in ancient Greek religion. From 582 Delphi was the site of the Pythian Games. (I stupidly sprained my ankle this morning so was pleased to make it to the top).

Delphi

The museum is modern and holds artifacts dating back to 650B.C. The archaeological site is fascinating to walk through, perched up so high and with stunning views. It is lovely the way the soft grey-green of the olive trees below blend in so well with the old stonework. Apollo's sanctuary, the theatre and the stadium are the main features for us. We wonder if any buildings or sites of today will be so well preserved in another 2,700 years.

Part of frieze exhibited in the gallery

We have a quick, light lunch in Delphi looking over the views below out as far as the Corinth Bay. It looks so benign out there it is difficult to believe it won't calm down until tomorrow. Again, this trip is hours of driving but it means we can sail overnight without stopping for a visit to Delphi, and so make up a day.

We drive back along the north coast of the Gulf of Corinth and west of the canal in a westerly direction. We plan to stop just at Nafpactos at the west end of the Gulf of Corinth. Coming into this small, ancient, circular, stonewalled harbour by boat would be wonderful. We doubt if we could get our boat in and there wouldn't be room for her anyway. There are numerous attractive tavernas set around the harbour and in the main square just beyond. We have a drink here and are sorry we have to move on.

The Greeks like their tolls along their road systems. The drive over the suspension bridge at the western end of the Gulf of Corinth is very expensive. It is an engineering feat. They charge accordingly at 11 euros. The other tolls are all 2.5 euros.

It has been an experience to drive along the northern (today) and southern (yesterday and today) coasts of the Corinth Gulf as we plan to sail straight through here tomorrow.

MONDAY, 28 JULY 2008

We up anchor early and make our way to the Corinth Canal. We have breakfast as we go listening to Mozart's flute and harp concertos. It is very calm today.

We have a cleaning and scrubbing session as we go along, because with the water restrictions we can't hose and brush down the boat, which is much easier and does a better job.

To pass through the canal is very expensive - $500- and at weekends it is double. We may have tried to leave yesterday but, with the extra expense and a not perfect weather forecast, we decided to wait. The canal is closed on Tuesday so we are pleased to have excellent weather today.

It is an exciting time passing through the canal. We have to wait 2 hours to go through, doing our paperwork ashore and then watching the boats coming out from the west side from small sailing boats and motor cruisers to the very large cargo ships. Building this canal was a great feat. It was first thought of in C7 B.C. and not completed until 1893. Passing along its 6ks it is very impressive looking up the 90m vertical sides. It is fun waving to the people on the bridges looking down at the boats passing through.

Corinth Canal

We are sailing here in company with Alan from Switzerland. He is hoping we can sail along the northern coast of the Gulf of Patra with them towards the Ionian Islands but, unfortunately, we have to move on. We will keep in touch and, hopefully, meet up again soon.

The calm weather holds for the overnight sail. It is an interesting experience to go under the suspension bridge that we drove over yesterday. We have to radio the traffic control here to be told which section to pass through - the deepest one for the commercial boats and either side for yachts and cruisers. Each section is well lit at night so it is very clear where to go. The only challenge can be the small car ferries that still cross frequently, even though the bridge is operating.

TUESDAY, 29 JULY 2008

We are heading for the Ionian group of islands to slip into Argostoli, the capital on Kefallonia, at about 9.30am. Sadly, the island was devastated by the 1953 earthquake so suffers architecturally with the modern style buildings. However, the beaches and small harbours, rugged mountains and cliffs, and some ancient sites make this an excellent stop. Also, we are hoping to catch up with the N.Z. girls we met in Mykonos.

We drive up the coast to Myrtos beach. Just getting there along these steep winding roads with hairpin bends one after the other, and taking in the scenery along the mountainous coastline seeing the most fantastic stretch of blue waters, is an experience in itself. Myrtos Beach, where Captain Corelli's Mandolin was filmed, is said to be in the ten top beaches of the world. We have a blissful afternoon here swimming in the beautiful blue water and then dropping off to sleep under an umbrella. The facilities are basic here with just a snack bar and the usual hire of umbrellas and lounges.

Mertos Beach

13 ks. north we come to Assos. This would have to be the jewel of the area. We spend time here drawing, looking back over the bay to the isthmus with its whitewashed and newer pastel houses, many with vine covered terraces. Later we walk up to the Venetian fortress high up on the peninsular. The views from here over the surrounding seas and coastline are spectacular, especially as the sun is beginning to set and casting beautiful lights over the water.

Assos

At such short notice we are unable to catch up with the N.Z. girls. They have guests from home. They suggest dinner in a day or two but we need to move on while the forecast is favourable. Another meltemi is forecast for Thursday. They are keen to have a sail too but, unfortunately, it's not working out.

WEDNESDAY, 30 JULY 2008

Today we are motoring in calm weather 50 n.miles north to Fiskardo, so we are passing by the same coastline we drove by yesterday. This is the only town on the island not ruined by the earthquake.

IONIAN ISLANDS - Poem

IONIAN ISLANDS

We are finally through the Corinth Canal
And the now-tame Corinth Bay
The admiral deals with the Rion Bridge
(There aren't even tolls to pay)

Now we're crossing the gulf of Patros
And this morning right on first light
We make out Cephallonia
It's a very welcome sight

We tie up at Argostoli
And do the mountain climb
To the famous stony Myrtos Beach
Where it's watermelon time

We besiege the Venetian fortress
At the tiny Assos port
There's a shady spot to sit and sketch
(Some tones may not have been caught)

The Lonely Planet says of Fiskardho
It's for "yachties with attitude"
We're not at all sure what to make of this
Perhaps they meant "altitude"?

We put out our long lines with real panache
In case we must pass some test
The people next door need help from us
And we're just as good as the rest

When we go ashore we find the port
Is a sunny low-key place
It has tables laid for thousands,but
Of "attitude" barely a trace

We sail north to Anti Paxos
We have trouble anchoring here
We walk to the hill top taverna
Note this: orange juice,not beer

All the boats depart by late afternoon
For Paxos for the night
We anchor at Gaios; the harbour displays
Venice pinks in the evening light

We motor-scoot north up to Laka
Back via Longos to the east
We are charged "August" prices to do it
(Demand doubles today, at least)

It's a calm flat sea as we motor north
Towards old Corfu Town
We have an anxious meeting here
With an artist of some renown

It works out all right 'cos we ply him with drinks
So that when Warren comes to look
He nods with approval and puts a gold star
Rather liberally through the sketch book

We dine well with Warren at Pelekas
Then up for an overnight stay
At the memory-laden Levant Hotel
(Which might have had its day)

There's a quick overnight at Laka
And one last go at Greek food
Now we're off across the Ionian Sea
To catch the Sicilian mood.

AUGUST 2008

FISKARDO to CORFU

FISKARDO

WEDNESDAY, 30 JULY 2008

Coming into Fiskado is a lovely sight with yachts and cruises coming and going into this busy little harbour. This is the only village on Kefalonia not ruined by the 1953 earthquake, so it still has its Venetian buildings standing as they were. The hills behind are green wooded areas with pockets of Cyprus trees.

Helping an English family tie up stern to

Ross helps an English family into a stern to tie up next to us. It is their first time so the husband is very appreciative.

Fiskardo

There is a relaxed feel about the place even though there are super yachts and cruisers and some trendy people here. We have a light, simple dinner ashore to sample the atmosphere. Later we walk along the coast to look at some ancient ruins.

THURSDAY, 31 JULY 2008

We sail n.east averaging 6kts. for 6 1/2 hours to Anti-Paxos. Fighter jets are flying very low above us. It seems they are just above our mast and the noise is incredible. A naval ship is traveling near us for some time too. Perhaps it is a naval exercise happening?

We have anchoring problems at a charming small Agrapidia bay where there is a tiny boat harbour. We are unable to get a good holding so move on.

Just dropping into a very small island like Anti-Paxos with all its grapevines and beautiful beaches in the late afternoon is what you dream about. The lovely waters with the deeper dark tones through to the turquoise and then the palest blue enhanced by the sun shining through to the crumbled white limestone below. We go ashore to the pretty pebbled beach, Voutoumi, where children are making "pebble " castles. We walk up to the top of the hill to the taverna to appreciate the views. We really like the fresh orange juices in Greece but think at E5-7 each we should squeeze our own. Later we swim off the boat in these translucent waters. This anchorage is not recommended for overnight holding so we move a short distance to Paxos and anchor off Gaios harbour. It is so popular here all the stern-to mooring space is filled early in the day. There is still some space on the other side of the town but if there is enough protection and a good holding we are happier just to drop the anchor. It is quieter and has a lovely sense of space. Also the water is clean for swimming off the yacht.

This picturesque village is built around the port which is protected by 2 small islands. It is the smallest of the Ionian Islands and is a cluster of small islands and rocky islets.

We enjoy the Venetian architecture along the busy waterfront, and find a delicious low-key dinner in a Greek family taverna in behind the main tourist area. The town comes to life as night falls, especially around the main square.

Paxos was named the cultural village of Europe in 2004. This is to make all possible efforts to continue and improve the cultural life in the villages.

FRIDAY, 1 AUGUST 2008

We explore the island on a motorbike. We are told prices go up on August 1 because it is the height of the season. We have been paying E10 per day elsewhere and they are asking E8 per hour here. Fortunately, it is a very small island. We travel n.east along the smoother coastline. The western coastline has the abrupt limestone cliffs as we saw in Kefalonia. Inland there are endless olive groves which produce the famous olive oil which they export from here.

Lakka and Longos are the other two small harbours here and are a treat to visit. We spend time soaking in the atmosphere at each one, having a long orange juice at one and a warm fresh apple pastry from the bakery at the next.

We have a "close shave" on the bike this morning, and it is Ross' skillful driving that saves us a spill. Another bike pulls out of a road in front of us and just props when he sees a car coming. We have a few unstable wiggles and just miss clipping his bike as we get around behind him.

Back in Gaios we replenish the provisions and set off for the east coast of Corfu, a 5 1/2 hour trip with some sailing. We both enjoy these longer passages, especially with this glorious weather, and the sailing is an added bonus.

We are excited to be returning to Corfu where we came two years ago for a two week art tour with the artist Warren Curry. He has been coming here for ten years now and holds one of these sessions each year. He has just had a very successful exhibition here and is holding his next one in Victoria next November. He was offered another exhibition in Paxos this year but felt exhibitioned out (he had one at home earlier in the year) but plans to do this next year.

Warren has dinner on Impulsive which is such fun. We are very appreciative of his constructive critique he gives us for our art works. It's not quite the gold stars but very encouraging.

SATURDAY, 2 AUGUST 2008

Unfortunately, we have knocked and bent a stanchion coming in here to Gouvia marina in Garitsa Bay yesterday evening. Ross has hired a bike and is trying to find somewhere to get it repaired. It is lucky we plan to be here for several days, because being Saturday it is difficult to get work like this done during the weekend. He finds a helpful contact who can do it by mid-morning Monday when we hope to leave.
Dinner with Warren and Stephanie

We set off to Pelekas on the west coast to meet Warren at his house. We leave early so we can retrace our steps from our previous trip here. We have a call from Warren saying he has booked us in to the Levant Hotel for the night, where we stayed 2 years ago. After his mostly unlit bike ride back last night (we had suggested he stay on the boat), with its steep and winding roads he doesn't think its safe for us to try. It's about a 40 minute trip across the island, so we are delighted with this proposal. We go there first to park the bike and leave our small knap-sack of luggage. We have a tiny attic room which is the last room available. (This is our first night off the boat since we left Cyprus. She really is like our home now).

The neo-classic style hotel has a charming atmosphere even though it is in need of some renovations. It is close to the western shore of the island on the summit of Pelekas Hill with panoramic views of the surrounding area and the famous sunset. Close by is Kaiser's Observatory where Empress Elizabeth of Austria and Kaiser 11 of Germany enjoyed their favourite stroll.

Levant Hotel

It's a lovely walk down to the village to Warren's house. What a wonderful night we have with Warren and his business friend Stephanie, at his small Greek house just oozing with atmosphere, and with its views over miles of Corfu with its pockets of olive groves and pencil Cyprus trees and the sea. We also see some of his art which we always admire and enjoy. They serve up a delicious warm Thai green curry chicken dish served on a bed of salad.

SUNDAY, 3 AUGUST 2008

The plan was to take Warren sailing with us today or tomorrow, but he has been extremely generous with his time and has other commitments to work around, especially his painting. So we say good-bye until we all get back to Australia.

We spend a lovely morning at Stephanie's house in the nearby countryside. She is a very interesting person, including being an artist herself, and has held some of Warren's exhibitions. She is also a professional health therapist, so I am spoiled with a massage - a combined Swiss/Thai one she likes to use.

We decide to miss the famous near-by beaches of Pelekas and Paleokastritsa this time. We had a lovely time there 2 years ago and today they will be very hot and busy, being holiday season and Sunday.

The trip back to Impulsive, as Stephanie suggests, is off the main road and through the forest with scattered farms and vegetable gardens.

As she also suggested, we venture off in the cool of the evening instead to Kommeno Bay to the Imperial hotel. We have a quick change in the car park out of the bike riding gear and in we go. As warned, the hotel is an architectural disaster, but the site is wonderful. The swim is refreshing but we don't put our heads under as the water isn't as clean and clear as we are used to. We have been spoiled out on the smaller islands. We enjoy a relaxed drink here with a view over the sea. Everything is ultra expensive. A cup of green tea is E7.5 and a whole packet of this tea is only E3.5 in the supermarket.

It is a great surprise to hear from Steve and Meg's friends Scotty and Sophie Vickers-Willis. We hope to have a rendezvous with them somewhere in the islands but, unfortunately, the timing isn't right. We are disappointed as this would have been great fun and a good opportunity to catch up with news from home.

MONDAY, 4 AUGUST 2008

After we have a busy morning provisioning, refitting the stanchion which looks as good as new, a long session on the computer with Scott by phone in the Internet cafe, and finishing off several other jobs, we head off in a s.east direction retracing our steps to Paxos. There is not much wind so we motor sail with the headsail up averaging 6.5kts.

This time we anchor at Lakki, the small harbour we so enjoyed visiting on the bike a few days ago.

Lakki

This is one of the most picturesque harbours we have come into. It is small but it is amazing how many boats are anchored here. Luckily it is a shallow anchorage so we don't have to put out too much chain which will minimize our chances of tangling anchors, a hazard in the busy high season. An evening swim and a drink on board is very pleasant. Going ashore to walk along the waterfront and have dinner by the water is a lovely way to spend our last night after 8 weeks in the Greek Islands. The dinner was delicious - grilled stuffed squid, seafood risotto and Greek salad accompanied by the local organic red wine.

FAVOURITE RECIPES

1. Salad with crumbled walnuts

Lettuce and rocket mixed and put onto individual plates

cover with sliced avocado, 4-5 large prawns each, crumbled walnuts

pour over light blue cheese dressing

2.for each serve

half an avocado each

filled with mixture of: tinned tuna

small dices of cucumber

small dices of red pepper

small dices of hard-boiled egg

finely chopped anchovy fillets

soft feta spooned gently through the above ingredients

light vinaigrette dressing (with mayonnaise-optional)

TUESDAY, 5 AUGUST 2008

We are up bright and early to leave for Sicily. Mid-morning we receive a call from Stefhanie to see if she can join us in Paxos today. Sadly, the timing isn't right again. She wasn't able to come the previous 2 days so we are hoping she will visit Australia soon.

We were really looking forward to our time in the Greek Islands and we have loved it - hundreds of islands, often within a close sail of each other. There is great variety and diversity within the groups. There are hundreds of beautiful beaches and stunning waters everywhere. We also enjoyed the many different styles of architecture and tavernas. The history here is long and interesting, as is the local mythology. The Greeks have been very welcoming and helpful and it is certainly a place to take one's time and relax.

We have no wind today and a beam swell. We need some wind so we can put up a sail to flatten off the roll.

As we set off on an overnight sail across the Ionian Sea we have a light wind just north of west. We have 3 hours with the headsail being filled, which helped our speed to average 7kts, but later dropped back to 20 degrees off the bow instead of 5. It is glorious out here with the sun sparkling on the water, and the swell has settled now the wind has flattened out. We both read in the evening light out in the cockpit.

During the night the wind comes up to 24kts so we average 7kts S.O.G.

RHODES

Lily in Rhodes

Anna and Augusta

RHODES

MONDAY, 16 JUNE 2008

Kostos, the marine engineer, kindly comes early this morning to plan repairing the engine on the yacht tomorrow morning. We are anxious to have her ready to sail by Thursday as planned with Heather and Paul and their children for 6 days, and to take Scott out before that.

Ross and I are thrilled that all the children enjoy the boat so much. They come and visit us on her during these few days and have great fun exploring all her nooks and crannies. We have several pleasant lunches on board.

Augusta and Lily on Impulsive

Anna and Lucinda on Impulsive

We all enjoy the old town built by the Knights. Walking down their cobblestone avenue where they used to live, passed the façade of large stone blocks, lovely old doorways and arched windows makes us wonder what their life must have been like in 200BC when it was built.

In the Old Town

Another day Ross hires a nine-seater vehicle for us. Sadly, he can’t come with us as he needs to be on Impulsive while she is tended to. I got very lost driving to pick-up the rest of the family but did see more of Rhodes. We all set off to Lindos for the day. The trip there in one large car together was fun in itself in the safe hands of Paul’s expert driving. Lachie, Anna and Augusta surprise us with their enthusiasm to climb up to the Acropolis, especially as it is very hot. They are thrilled to have a donkey ride back down the hill. The views are stunning over the bays and the white-washed houses built for the admirals with their courtyard gardens filled with bougainvillea and hibiscus. The alleyways are very narrow and no cars are allowed in the main part of the village, but there is a lot of donkey traffic.

At the Acropolis (Lindos)

Donkey trek for the children

In the meantime, Scott and Jeanette have been entertaining Lily and Lucinda with swims and an early lunch. We all have lunch in a taverna by the beach, followed by a swim in the clearest water I have seen.

At the end of the day, driving back to pick Ross up I got seriously lost, getting caught up in one-way streets and alleyways. At one stage I had to fold in the rear vision mirrors to fit through with this large car. It was nerve racking but, again, I saw more of Rhodes.

THURSDAY, 19 JUNE 2008

Impulsive is ready. It has been well worth all Ross’ patience and being prepared to wait for people.

This morning Heather helps me with Augusta and Lily so Scott and Jeanette can have a decent sail. (The girls are only allowed on the yacht while she is moored.) They come in to anchor at the resort where we have a swap of crew.

Scott diving off Impulsive
Scott and Jeanette, Augusta and Lily in the dinghy

Heather, Paul and the children sail back to old Rhodes harbour. The skipper thinks this is a sensible length of time to see if the children can handle it. And they do with flying colours! Lachie learning to tie knots

We have lots of fun at our final dinner together in the old town. We all enjoyed our time in Rhodes so much. It is a bustling town with so much atmosphere, much history and many tavernas to choose from. Everyone is very welcoming here, especially to Australian children.

LEAVING RHODES

LEAVING RHODES

MONDAY, 20 JUNE 2008

After still warm out of the oven fresh croissants, we head in a westerly direction motor-sailing to Simi. It doesn’t take the children long to get used to wearing their life jackets. Later when the wind comes round we are able to sail. Then the wind drops right out closer to Simi. All the children are asleep so we take turns to dive overboard into the magnificent blue water for a swim.

Simi has a beautiful harbour, Giales, once famous for its sponge diving and ship building. It is surrounded by attractively painted neo-classic houses which are built tiered rising up from the harbour. They used to belong to sea captains.

It is very hot here as there is no sea breeze. The children cannot believe their luck to step off the yacht at the ice cream and iced drinks shop. Late afternoon as we walk along the waterfront towards the headland, as much to explore as to find shade, we soon find a small pebbled beach, Nos, adjoining a low-key island style café in the shade. This is the perfect place for swimming and cooling off until we find the waterfront taverna, Tholos, for dinner. We all agree this is a wonderful lifestyle.

Simi is a very pretty place when the lights come on in the evening. Anna loves a window shopping walk with Heather and me, and then walking up the hill to look back at the view below over the harbour.

SATURDAY, 21 JUNE 2008

It’s soon apparent the children enjoy the excitement of leaving a place and then arriving at a new destination, but we decide that shorter sails are better for us than longer ones, eg. to Samos. After an early morning walk up beside the harbour to the church we set off to Panormitis Bay down the east coast of Simi and around its south-west tip. The feature here is the large Italianate-style monastery of Archangel Michael of Panormitis.

The monastery bakery here is excellent and we buy some apple pies for dinner. Lachie has his first dinghy driving lesson here.Lachie´s 1st. dinghy driving lesson

He is also learning how to tie knots. The skipper is enjoying having a small boy at his side again. The two girls are asleep so we swim off the back of the yacht.

We are anchored here and, fortunately, we plan dinner on the boat tonight because the winds come up 35kts and it would have been difficult to use the dinghy. The sea is very choppy. Some boats have problems anchoring.

SUNDAY, 22 JUNE 2008

Our early morning walk up to the lighthouse before the heat of the day is good exercise before setting off to Tilos to the west. This is about a three hour trip, mostly motor sailing. Tilos is a quieter island, with a very small port, which we all enjoy very much. It has practiced “green tourism” for many years. The main square of Kavadia is very small with little action. After an afternoon on the beach we have dinner at the water-side taverna, Irena. Again, they are so welcoming to Australians.

MONDAY, 23 JUNE 2008

Lucinda’s birthday! What an unusual way for a little girl to celebrate her 3rd birthday. She seems to enjoy every minute of it.

After spending the morning on the beach, Ross and I move the boat to anchor just off this beach and take in the birthday lunch and treats. Paul ties balloons in the tree shading us.

Later we up-anchor and head for Halki, referred to as the small Simi, which is several hours south-west of Tilos and 5 n.miles west of Rhodes. We all enjoy this island so much we stay for two nights.

Halki

Most of the sea captains old mansions have been well renovated, but there are still some facades standing waiting for this. Paul and I see this as a challenge.

We arrive at Emborios in time to have dinner at Georges waterfront taverna. This is a great find as George has lived in Sydney for 10 years. Like all these small ports there are many small beautifully painted fishing boats, lots for the children to watch and an excellent playing area where no cars are allowed. The children tend to sleep when we are underway in the afternoon, which makes it easy to all have dinner onshore and partake in the local culture and cuisine.

SAILING WITH HEATHER & FAMILY

SAILING WITH HEATHER & FAMILY

TUESDAY, 24 JUNE 2008

George lends us his 4WD and we all pile in together to tour this very small island. We drive high up to the now desolate old town and the monastery. This road is quite precarious and passes by barren country still with its ancient walls and terracing to mark off the now unused land plots that were for animals and crops. This island used to have a large population for copper processing.

Podanos beach is perfect for children, shallow and sandy (which is rare here - they are usually pebble beaches). The well shaded beach side taverna is most attractive and, like all these islands, has rows of colourful oleanders.

We return to Georges taverna for dinner. His hospitality is almost overwhelming.

The herbs for herb tea are picked on the island high up in the mountains. We buy some honey which has been produced on the island. It is made from thyme leaves and so has an unusual but delicious flavour.

Ross and I up anchor at 5am to get the young family back to Rhodes in time for their flight home via Athens. Anna and Lucinda sleep through until 7.45am.

We pass by the fish farms on the s.east tip of Tilos and then n.east by Rhodes Island coast to old Rhodes harbour. We are very fortunate to be given another berth here, as there are 15 extra boats here for a rally. When we see how narrow the space is we are expected to fit into, stern - to, we don't believe it is possible. We have to make it work as it is the only available space. We appreciate Paul's extra help as it is very difficult. Heather is busy inside with the children.

Well, our very special time with Heather and Scott and their families is over. We are so lucky to have had such wonderful weather and conditions while they were with us. We will always remember this time as a highlight of our trip.

FAVOURITE BREAKFASTS

1. Ross' porridge with the local Halki honey.

2. Fresh warm croissants from the Marina Mini Market with Robbies (boat) made jam

3. Fresh fruit (the local stone fruit is at its best now), muesli and yogurt.

NISEROS TO AGATHONISI TO SAMOS

NISEROS TO AGATHONISI TO SAMOS

THURSDAY, 26 JUNE 2008

Our destination today is in a n.west direction to Niseros Island. It is very calm so we motor for several hours . Mandraki is the quiet port here, and we both decide it would be somewhere we could easily return to, just to relax, read, maybe paint and draw, and be meditative. The houses here are well maintained, usually two stories, and painted mostly with white (or white-washed), with Aegean blue trims, eg. shutters, doors and balconies. Their use of colourful flowers in pots is effective.

Tony's taverna by the water is a good choice for dinner, while watching the most exquisite sunset. Tony has returned to Greece after living in Footscray for ten years working as a butcher.

Our motor bike ride up to the C14 cliff top village, Moni Paragias Spillanis, is exhilarating. The views are breathtaking over the Aegean Sea. There is also an excellent view down to the dormant volcano. We come across the Icelandic couple we met next to us at Simi, so spend some time over a drink with them. We have the wind rushing by our faces as we ride back down and can hear cicadas trilling in the heat of the evening.

Exploring Niseros
View of the Volcano

FRIDAY, 27 JUNE 2008

We have at least one hour's good sailing across to Kos, in a n.east direction. This is one place we are disappointed with. It is written up as a small Rhodes, but it doesn't have the same atmosphere with its crowds of tourists and fast food cafes and restaurants, so we have a quiet dinner on Impulsive.

Kos Marina

The history here is very interesting and it is exciting to visit the island where Hippocrates was born and lived. We hire push bikes and ride around the Knight's castle, the old harbour area and to Hippocrates plane tree, the site where the father of medicine used to teach his pupils.

Hippocrates Plane TreeExploring KosSunset at the Marina

SATURDAY, 28 JUNE 2008

After clearing out from Greece we have our first good sail for ages crossing over to Bodrum (Turkey). It is wonderful to catch up with Phil and Robbie and catch up with their latest travels. They have had a wonderful few weeks. We plan to travel with them to Samos (Greece).

Ross and I really enjoy Bodrum. The castle with its underwater archaeological museum is worth a visit.

Bodrum Castle

Bodrum is busy with lots of tourists and shops but, with all its waterfront areas and restaurants, you are always looking out over water and boats. The residential area up behind the tourist area is lovely to walk through with narrow streets shaded by vines and colourful bougainvillea spilling over the walls.

Bodrum

It lacks the charm of the smaller Greek ports but has its attractions. The marina is very large and so busy all the time, especially with the gullets coming and going. Both the waterfront lunch and dinner at a restaurant recommended by locals has lots of atmosphere and a delicious Greek cuisine.

Gulets

THURSDAY, 29 JUNE 2008

We set off with Robbie and Phil to motor the short distance to Akyar Koku just west of Bodrum. We decide to take shelter here until tomorrow morning or we would have a strong wind on the nose.

This is a small local beach resort. During the afternoon I hear a dinghy motor struggling nearby. We realize they have problems and are being taken out to sea quite quickly. As Ross goes in our dinghy to help them, Phil happens to call by, so goes to their aid too. Between them they bring the dinghy and people back to shore. It makes us realize how quickly these things can happen.

It is like one big beach party here until dark when all the locals go home and now it is peaceful and quiet. We watch the world rugby final on the big screen ashore after a late dinner.

MONDAY, 30 JUNE 2008

We still have to motor n.west into the wind in quite a strong sea to anchor off the point at Ormos Pandeli at Leros Island.

Swimming off the back of the boat here is a treat in these crystal clear, blue waters. We have dinner with our feet in the pebbles on the beach.

Fishing boat at Leros

TUESDAY, 1 JULY 2008

On our hire bikes we set north off along the coast to Alinda for a coffee stop. They also have local herb tea picked in the mountains here. Then we cross the island via the small fishing village of Gourna on the west coast, to Lakki the capital, with its grand italianette-fascist buildings and wide boulevards. The highlight is the mountain top Pandeli castle with its church run museum. There is only one relic here, but it has many artifacts from the church because the government can't claim them. The library houses many very old books. I would like to develop one with similar architecture for Ross.

Exploring Leros
View down to port of Ormos Pandeli (Leros)

We leave the Dodecanese Islands and head n.east to Agathonisi back into Greece (instead of to Palmos because of the wind direction). We have a wonderful sail across to this very small island and port. We are told refugees from Turkey just turn up here, floating on rubber dinghies. They are often people from the Middle East. The coast guard pick them up here and take them off for questioning. It all seems rather sad.

It is surprising we are able to go ashore here for dinner. The town is so small it is surprising there is a restaurant at all, but there are three. The cuisine is simple but delicious. Touring yachties obviously boost their economy.

Restaurant at Agathonisi

WEDNESDAY, 2 JULY 2008

We have an early morning walk up to the hilltop village with only three houses and the tiniest church we have ever seen. This steep walk followed by a swim is a great start to the day. From the boat we often hear the goat's bells as they walk around the island. We often see goat on the menu in this part of the world. We are told it is delicious; similar to lamb with a slightly gamey taste.

Now we leave for Samos in the eastern Sporades group. We have a difficult motor sail up the west coast of Agathonisi island, with a bit more protection than the east coast would offer, heading and slapping into the wind. We just finish tying up at Pythagrio port when we see Phil and Wendy Kennon walking down the main cobbled street looking for us. This seems to be amazing to be tied up right in the centre of town and Phil and Wendy have been dropped off by their taxi at the stern of the yacht. We are thrilled to see them, and soon Phil and Robbie come in beside us so it is quite a get together of Australians.

Dinner tonight is at a family run restaurant, Maritsa, specializing in lamb, and situated just back from the waterfront. The lamb is booked for 8pm. The setting is outdoors under a very large old tree which has an impressive cooling effect.

Pythagorio is World Heritage listed with many historical sites, including the Temple of Hera near Ireon built in C6, and was six times bigger than the Parthenon. Pythagorio is named after Pythagoras who was born and lived here on Samos.