PELOPONNESE, DELPHI AND THE IONIANS
SUNDAY, 27 JULY 2008
We are up very early to move the boat out to drop the anchor. First we have hot apple pastries from the bakery. Last night the guys on the quay ask us to move on. We aren't so pleased about this because we plan to leave the boat for the day and enjoy the security of being tied up. The issue is they have a large number of charter boats coming in and they usually have a lot of crew on board who will eat at this taverna. They don't charge us to tie up here so the taverna is their livelihood, and so when we come in with only two crew they prefer us to move on sooner rather than later. So we get our ration of water and move off. Unfortunately, the guys here have very explosive manners but, once they explain to us why, we are happy. The woman we spoke with says the water truck comes to her every three days. The water shortage here is serious and so we can't wash down the boat. Apparently, there are similar restrictions in some yacht clubs in Melbourne now.
We set off to make a round trip to Delphi along the spectacular coast road towards Athens, just getting a glimpse of the canal as we pass over the top of it, and then turn off in a n.west direction to Thebes passing through rolling hills of agricultural countryside with many acres of potatoes being grown and harvested. The disastrous bushfires are just north of Athens. We then start winding our way up the slopes of Mount Parnassus to Delphi, an amazing site set high up on the cliff tops. This is the site of the ancient temple and oracle of Apollo in Greece. It was the centre of the world in ancient Greek religion. From 582 Delphi was the site of the Pythian Games. (I stupidly sprained my ankle this morning so was pleased to make it to the top).
Delphi
The museum is modern and holds artifacts dating back to 650B.C. The archaeological site is fascinating to walk through, perched up so high and with stunning views. It is lovely the way the soft grey-green of the olive trees below blend in so well with the old stonework. Apollo's sanctuary, the theatre and the stadium are the main features for us. We wonder if any buildings or sites of today will be so well preserved in another 2,700 years.
Part of frieze exhibited in the gallery
We have a quick, light lunch in Delphi looking over the views below out as far as the Corinth Bay. It looks so benign out there it is difficult to believe it won't calm down until tomorrow. Again, this trip is hours of driving but it means we can sail overnight without stopping for a visit to Delphi, and so make up a day.
We drive back along the north coast of the Gulf of Corinth and west of the canal in a westerly direction. We plan to stop just at Nafpactos at the west end of the Gulf of Corinth. Coming into this small, ancient, circular, stonewalled harbour by boat would be wonderful. We doubt if we could get our boat in and there wouldn't be room for her anyway. There are numerous attractive tavernas set around the harbour and in the main square just beyond. We have a drink here and are sorry we have to move on.
The Greeks like their tolls along their road systems. The drive over the suspension bridge at the western end of the Gulf of Corinth is very expensive. It is an engineering feat. They charge accordingly at 11 euros. The other tolls are all 2.5 euros.
It has been an experience to drive along the northern (today) and southern (yesterday and today) coasts of the Corinth Gulf as we plan to sail straight through here tomorrow.
MONDAY, 28 JULY 2008
We up anchor early and make our way to the Corinth Canal. We have breakfast as we go listening to Mozart's flute and harp concertos. It is very calm today.
We have a cleaning and scrubbing session as we go along, because with the water restrictions we can't hose and brush down the boat, which is much easier and does a better job.
To pass through the canal is very expensive - $500- and at weekends it is double. We may have tried to leave yesterday but, with the extra expense and a not perfect weather forecast, we decided to wait. The canal is closed on Tuesday so we are pleased to have excellent weather today.
It is an exciting time passing through the canal. We have to wait 2 hours to go through, doing our paperwork ashore and then watching the boats coming out from the west side from small sailing boats and motor cruisers to the very large cargo ships. Building this canal was a great feat. It was first thought of in C7 B.C. and not completed until 1893. Passing along its 6ks it is very impressive looking up the 90m vertical sides. It is fun waving to the people on the bridges looking down at the boats passing through.
Corinth Canal
We are sailing here in company with Alan from Switzerland. He is hoping we can sail along the northern coast of the Gulf of Patra with them towards the Ionian Islands but, unfortunately, we have to move on. We will keep in touch and, hopefully, meet up again soon.
The calm weather holds for the overnight sail. It is an interesting experience to go under the suspension bridge that we drove over yesterday. We have to radio the traffic control here to be told which section to pass through - the deepest one for the commercial boats and either side for yachts and cruisers. Each section is well lit at night so it is very clear where to go. The only challenge can be the small car ferries that still cross frequently, even though the bridge is operating.
TUESDAY, 29 JULY 2008
We are heading for the Ionian group of islands to slip into Argostoli, the capital on Kefallonia, at about 9.30am. Sadly, the island was devastated by the 1953 earthquake so suffers architecturally with the modern style buildings. However, the beaches and small harbours, rugged mountains and cliffs, and some ancient sites make this an excellent stop. Also, we are hoping to catch up with the N.Z. girls we met in Mykonos.
We drive up the coast to Myrtos beach. Just getting there along these steep winding roads with hairpin bends one after the other, and taking in the scenery along the mountainous coastline seeing the most fantastic stretch of blue waters, is an experience in itself. Myrtos Beach, where Captain Corelli's Mandolin was filmed, is said to be in the ten top beaches of the world. We have a blissful afternoon here swimming in the beautiful blue water and then dropping off to sleep under an umbrella. The facilities are basic here with just a snack bar and the usual hire of umbrellas and lounges.
Mertos Beach
13 ks. north we come to Assos. This would have to be the jewel of the area. We spend time here drawing, looking back over the bay to the isthmus with its whitewashed and newer pastel houses, many with vine covered terraces. Later we walk up to the Venetian fortress high up on the peninsular. The views from here over the surrounding seas and coastline are spectacular, especially as the sun is beginning to set and casting beautiful lights over the water.
Assos
At such short notice we are unable to catch up with the N.Z. girls. They have guests from home. They suggest dinner in a day or two but we need to move on while the forecast is favourable. Another meltemi is forecast for Thursday. They are keen to have a sail too but, unfortunately, it's not working out.
WEDNESDAY, 30 JULY 2008
Today we are motoring in calm weather 50 n.miles north to Fiskardo, so we are passing by the same coastline we drove by yesterday. This is the only town on the island not ruined by the earthquake.
