6th. June 2009
We can see Corsica in the distance as we leave for the 10 n. mile sail across. The wind comes around just south of west so we sail with half a mainsail. It is quite a sight to see the high limestone cliffs with the morning sun on them as we approach the narrow opening between the cliffs to come in.The marina here is busy and the capitainere gives us what appears to be an impossible space to come in stern- to . Ross does a great job, with the capitainere pushing with his dinghy, and fortunately the skipper on the neighbouring yacht could take a stern rope for us. A friendly skipper from U.K. takes the other one and it is a feeling of relief to be tied up safely.
Once organized we wander ashore to find a light lunch. There is a great atmosphere here and we enjoy the french language. We often laugh as we find we unconsciously use our little bit of Italian instead.
This is a most spectacular place. It looks especially so at night looking over the sea in one direction and the port in the other, from high up in the Old town. There are a few buskers adding to the spectacle, and the new full moon is shining over the sea. We have been here before and still think it is one of the most gorgeous places to visit. We find a cosy restaurant up in the "Old town."

View down to the harbour from the Old Town

7th. June 2009
What a wonderful place to have a birthday. We have planned a quiet day just soaking in the atmosphere here. We are fortunate to have good reception and internet access here so can skype or speak with all our family. Modern technology is fantastic to be able to do this.
Ross prepares the perfect lunch on board. Then we take the cliff - top walk with its stunning views.
There are many friendly people in this marina all with different stories to tell and suggestions of their favourite paces to explore. One Icelandic couple recognize our flag and are keen to talk with us as their dream is to sail to Australia one day.
Tonight we have dinner again up in the "Old town" at "U Castle " restaurant which has lots of atmosphere.

U Castle restaurant

Unfortunately we don´t have much sleep tonight because the crew on the large german yacht next to us are very badly behaved. We asked them at 3pm to let us have some sleep but they took no heed. Someone must have reported them because the harbour police came at 5.30am and put a stop to it. Every boat in the vicinity must have been affected.
We do enjoy waking up to the church bells ringing, as we we have in many of the ports in Sardinia.

8th. June 2009
We leave Bonifacio at lunch time and it is like a yachties´playground out here as we motor westerly along the s. coast. Several boats have their spinnakers up which adds to the colour. Now we can see Sardinia in the backgound to the south.
We motor west across to Campomoro, which is a delightful small village set by a lovely beach in a cove surrounded by steep slopes. It is a perfect afternoon when we stroll along here with many holiday makrs enjoying this calm bay.


There are many beautiful blue fish swimming under the boat, and as we prepare dinner a dolphin comes gracefully by. We enjoy a long deep sleep at this very calm anchorage with no swell or wind.

9th. June 2009
This morning there is a slight swell but very little wind as we motor 5 n.miles west across the Golfe de Volinco to Propriano and anchor just outside the marina. This is a fishing village which was destroyed by the Turks in C16 and C17, and was rebuilt about 100 years ago. It is very lively today as signs of the tourism season are beginning.

Coming into Propriano


We enjoy lunch on Impulsive as we motor east across to the deserted Scolia Longu. This is referred to as the "Henry Moore sculptured anchorage" . The white and grey boulders and rocks here have been eroded into many amazing and different shapes.

Scolio Longu
Only a few boats can anchor here at a time. We see another yacht approaching as we are and when we arrive a rather anxious elderly skipper from U.K. is trying to organize us both. We both anchor quite closeby, but safely, when another yacht arrives. He has great anchoring skills and anchors stern to in between some large rocks.

Looking up to old Genoese fort
We walk along a coastal track to the next magic cove. The water looks tantalizing with the sun shining on its beautiful, clear colours, so I can´t resist a swim.
The water is also a little warmer here. We are enjoying this weather (mid 20s) because we know how hot it will be in July and August.

Sunset at Scolio Longu

10th. June 2009

Bringing in the spinnaker

We are warned our next planned stop has a limited number of anchorages too, so we leave in good time hoping someone might be leaving as we arrive. It is ideal conditions for the spinnaker. We are pleased to get it down because the wind comes up without warning and gives the skipper some strong exercise to bring it in safely. We come into Anse DÁrbitro to see a couple of masts there. Ross does a wonderful job just fitting us in here as it is such an idyllic spot. One of the other yachts here is the french family who suggested it to us. They refer to it as paradise. It is another small cove with some agricultural country behind it, and with a backdrop of steep mountains and the most beautiful water. The colours of the outcrops of rocks here seem to have orange tinges during the day, changing into pinks and vermillion at sunset. This seems typical throughout Sardinia and Corsica and reminds us a lot of Wilson´s Promonitory.
We have time here to draw, paint, read and catch up on the seamail.

11th. June 2009

Leaving Anzo dÁrbitro

This morning we sail east across the Straits of Bonefacio averaging 7.5 kts. with both sails up. It is a rugged coastline and especially attractive as we pass the steep white cliffs and entrance to Bonefacio.
We plan to sail up the east coast of Corsica partly because the winds are more favourable and also we have sailed up the west coast some years ago with the Melletts.
We navigate through Les Bouches de Bonefacio. On the chart this looks impossible as there are many isands and reefs but in calm weather as we have today it is quite manageable. We have one of our best sails ever rocketing along at up to 8.5 kts.
We can see Sardinia in the distance.
We anchor with great difficulty in a very small cove, Porto Novo which was recommended to us by the frenchmen in Maddelena. The skipper isn´t entirely happy so we up-anchor and move closer in where someone with local knowledge suggests. It is lovely swimming in these crystal clear waters.
The forecast is for light winds. However we suffer some strong "bullet" winds during the evening and during the night. Ross has swum out and checked the anchor is safe but it is uncomfortable to feel Impulsive swinging around on the anchor. These winds are caused by winds funneling through the Bonefacio Straits from the west and also because we are surrounded by steep mountains here.

Leaving Porto Novo

12th. June 2009
We have a relaxed morning here, with some extended reading time. I am finding "The White Tiger" fascinating and it certainly gives an insight into living in India.

Sailing into channel up to Porto Vecchio - lighthouses warning of dangerous rocks off the point.

Later we motor sailed 11n.miles up the coast to Porto Vecchio. This small port is set in a natural harbour. We walk up the steep hill to the old walled town built by the Genoese. We find an attractive restaurant, with a wonderful view over the harbour, for dinner. Having mentioned to Ross I felt like some really "french" food I found the most wicked chocolate dessert ever seen -and it was just scrumpsious!

13th. June 2009
We both like it here very much so plan to stay an extra day. This decision is backed up by an email from Mark in Sydney (who helped us with the boat in Cyprus) that one of his team is coming to Sardinia on Monday to race in the world Far 40 class and could maybe help out with the water maker. Ross is concerned that this is difficult to fix and it is probably difficult to find an expert in this field. It is only 30 n.miles back to Porto Cervo in a direct route from here so this will be our plan. We are very appreciative of Mark´s help to organize all this.

Walking up to the old town

The church in the main square of the old townAlign CenterAlign CenterAlign Center
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