Panama


Panama

Thursday 12th. April

We need to be at Colon and tied up at Shelter Bay marina early so Impulsive can be measured up to go through the Canal. Ross has organized an agent to make sure this process is done effectively. We were told in Curacao there had been a 3 week wait for yachts to be given a slot to go through. Before we left home Ross also employed a pilot to take us through, which also helps to ensure a time on schedule. We are told with these 2 things in place (Ross paid for them before we left home) we should only have to wait 5 days. This is an expensive exercise but we feel worthwhile especially as we are booked on a commercial boat tour at the Galapagos Is. on April 28th. The sailing time out to the islands depends on several factors but the inter-tropical convergence zone can slow the trip down by a few days, so we want to get through the canal as soon as possible. It is quite a challenge to make bookings for the Galapagos trip because they get booked out but there are so many variables to consider eg when we could leave Curacao, if we encountered any problems on the way and when we can get through the Canal.
Approaching the breakwater to enter the Panama there are many large cargo ships anchored waiting to transit the canal.Shelter Bay marina is a hive of activity and anticipation. People are preparing their boats for long ocean crossings when they exit the canal. We have just a few issues to address here : 1.to have the auto-pilot pump fitted when Rob arrives
2. to have the automatic bilge pump electric switch fixed (Ross has fitted the pump)
3. to change all the fuel and generator filters
4. to re-cork some of the teak joins
It is a lovely surprise to find the Turnbulls ( from Australia) here who we last saw in Curacao last year. We have a great time catching up on news and experiences.
There are several Australian boats here, including the Catamaran and its crew we saw in the San Blas Islands.
To pass through the canal each yacht needs an adviser and 4 linesmen. David Turnbull invites Ross to join them for the experience as does another Australian boat. Once you reach the end of the canal you catch a bus back and hope someone will do the same for you. Unfortunately Ross needs to be here because Rob is arriving and also he needs to have the new pump fitted. Our agent thinks we can get a transit in 2 days so he hasn´t the time.
It is part of being here to be a linesman for others so it is a pity our time is limited. However we are thrilled not to have to wait too long to go through. There is not much wind predicted for our crossing to Galapagos islands so we need the extra time in the Pacific Ocean.
Saturday 14th. April
This morning we receive the great news that we can transit the canal and should be ready to leave tomorrow morning. We have only had to wait 3 days which is fantastic.
Ross had a great day yesterday with everything falling into place. e.g. He found an excellent mechanic who fixed the 2nd. and 3rd. issues mentioned above and is happy to install the new pump when it arrives.
However today isn´t running so smoothly. Rob has arrived as planned in Panama City but has to wait for the pump to arrive on a later flight the following day. So Greg the mechanic is no longer available to install it. Also Ross spends hours on the computer with Scott trying to re-install the onset. mail but without success which is frustrating for them both.




At lunch time we wave good-bye to the Turnbull´s on their way to their transit. It is a huge task preparing for this as we are not only preparing for an ocean crossing but we have to sleep and provision for the extra crew to pass through the Canal. We will have a pilot, our assistant agent who has offered to be a linesman , and another linesman.
The whole organisation of this manoeuvre is fantastic. However the transit date is often changed at the last minute and your time can be delayed for any length of time, which can also cause difficulties with availability of linesmen. One of the benefits of engaging a pilot is that this doesn´t happen.
We refuel and while waiting for Rob Ross locates another mechanic who is happy to put the part in for us when it arrives. what a relief!
Rob has had such a long day and trip. He must be exhausted but it is great to see him. Fortunately he arrives just in time for the agent to clear him through customs so we can leave at the appointed time tomorrow.
We will have to provision this evening and this is our last opportunity for some time. We will stock up on cans in case. To do this we have to go into Colon and the agent has offered to drive us in after he has done our customs and immigration, and has delivered 12 tyres wrapped in plastic we will use as fenders to go through the canal.

The history of the Canal is fascinating. it is known a one of the manmade marvels of the world. It is of the lock and lake type, connecting the Pacific and Atlantic Oceans. It is about 82 ks. long with a minimum depth of 12 m.
In 1879 a french company began constructing the canal , but the enterprise collapsed in 1889. Under a 1903 treaty Panama granted the U.S. the panama canal Zone and the rights to build and operate a canal. Work began in 1904 and after many obstacles was completed in 1914. Allowing ships to pass through here between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans without the lengthy circumnavigation of South America gave a great boon to world economy. In 1999 Panama took control of the canal again. Except for small craft ships are towed by electric locomotives and it usually takes 15-20 hours including waiting time. There are sets of double locks which enable ships to pass in opposite directions simultaneously. Two new locks are planned to be opened in 2014, and the existing locks are to be widened and deepened.
25,000 people died when the canal was first being built through disease from mosquitos of malaria and typhoid. In the rely 1900s the treatment of these diseases was discovered here.

Saturday 14th. April
This morning we receive the great news that we can transit the canal and should be ready to leave tomorrow morning. We have only had to wait 3 days which is fantastic.

Yesterday two yachts came back from the lake and have to wait several more days for their transit. Others have had their time delayed. Apparently there is a shortage of advisers which is causing this problem.
This afternoon we have our attention drawn to a 6 ft. crocodile which swims up between the same row of yachts about the same time. Also there has been a baramundi under the yacht.
Provisioning tonight is quite an experience. During the day there is a shuttle bus to the supermarket and back or there are taxis available. We are warned not to go into Colon on our own.
Rudi drives us into Colon as planned, and we are very grateful because we didn´t have time during the day. It takes 45 minutes passing through the National Park jungle and including having a stop when the road is closed for the canal. Two huge ships enter the canal being pulled by locomotives, and are followed by one yacht which looks like a small toy boat in a bath compared to the cargo ships. It is interesting to watch this operation to know what lies ahead tomorrow.
Even though it is Saturday evening the supermarket is packed with people. Apparently it is pay day. Jostling trolleys down the isles is not a great experience. Ross, Rob anI have a trolley each. The range here is very limited, especially thinking of crossing the Pacific.
The packing boys help us find transport back to Impulsive.There are very few taxis available. This is an example of the advantage of being with locals. They speak with a friend who comes by and we are very grateful when he and his friend offer to take us. Returning through the jungle they point out where the now abandoned U.S. army barracks are. The army used to practice jungle warfare here.
Stowing all these provision takes some time. It is tricky because we have to accommodate three more men tomorrow for one night. I would have preferred to provision in Panama City after the transit but Ross wants to make sure we have provisioned in case it is difficult to do so there because we have cleared out.

Provisioning






Sunday 15th. April

 The mechanic Cameron comes early to fit the new pump. The electrical fitting for it is burnt out as well.
Rob spends time on the computer with Scott hoping to establish the onsatmail again.

It is frustrating that this is such a problem.


The two linesmen come onboard mid-morning and tie on the extra 12 fenders.The extra fenders are tyres covered in plastic

We pick up the pilot outside the marina who comes out in a pilot boat. There are cargo ships coming out from the locks so we have to stay on the edge of channel.
Ross being guided by the pilot.





Rob at the helm






The trip through the canal is a great experience. The first three locks we go up, eg with the first lock the water rushes in and we rise about 8 m. in a few minutes.


 Entering the lock



Rafting up to the tug boat



A locomotive

In this lock we raft up with another yacht. It is a great surprise to find we know the skipper, James. We first met him in Barcelona where he had spent time working on Impulsive. He is English and with his Australian wife they are having a marvelous time sailing and working their way around the world. We had seen them at the marina.
We are then rafted up to a tug boat on our starboard side, which has it moments. One of our linesmen is quite excitable so it all seems more dramatic than it really is when the stern of the tug swings out from the wall with our two yachts rafted up to it. There are linesmen on shore to control the tug boat, and so they walk along beside us.
We pass through the first lock mid-afternoon and the third one several hours later. We pass into the huge manmade lake and anchor just on dusk. Our pilot is taken onshore but the linesmen stay on board for the whole trip. The both speak reasonable English which makes life easier for everyone. From here we can see some of the sites for building the new canal to
 open in 2014


The new pilot

 A different pilot joins us this morning. It is a beautiful trip through the lake which takes about 3 hours. There is a lot of birdlife and also we see several crocodiles. We also pass by a large Smithsonian centre where they are researching the effect of the manmade lake on the ecology of the area.
The descending locks are easier . We are rafted up to a tourist boat for these three locks and James´ yacht is rafted up to the outside of us for one of them.
We are fortunate to have a high tide to come out into the Pacific Ocean. Otherwise there can be strong currents here.
It is very exciting to come out into the Pacific Ocean. We are now past the areas I had been anxious of and am really looking forward to this next part of the trip. It feels we are starting to head back towards Australia. We have probably extended our sailing yet another season because we enjoy the way of life, but now it seems more relaxed.





Panama City

We are pleased there is a buoy available at the Balboa yacht club because the tidal range is 3.5 m. here. Because of this large tidal range the gates on the last lock into the Pacific are very tall to cope with the currents set up when the lock is opened.It is an attractive place on the Pacific side of the canal and has excellent 24 hour dinghy service to and from the boats. We are near the shipping channel so do get some wash from the big ships. The canal operates throughout the 24 hours each day so ships passby at all hours of the day and night. Also it is close to  Casco Viejo the old colonial part of the city we want to visit.

The wall of the old fort


The old Panama which was founded in 1591 has been in ruins since the pirate Henry Morgan attacked it in 1671.  In 1673 the new Panama was founded nearby and is now the Casco Viejo area. This area is very dilapidated and passing through you can see there are squatters living in many of these very run down buildings. However for sometime now renovations have been happening slowly and the government is insisting that the original colonial architecture is being restored to the area with any re-building.

View from the fort´s wall across to the business centre


We stroll around this area before having dinner at Las Bovedas, a restaurant by the harbour, which is set into the wall of the old fort and has been a prison. Leading yachties hours because we are tired we are first here but the numbers swell and the cuisine and atmosphere are excellent.

Panama City´s business centre has an impressive skyline, and is booming. As with the economy here when Panama took over full ownership of the canal there is expected to be another boom in the economy when the new canals open in 2014.

Crossing to Galapagos Islands

As we leave Panama City and track through Panama Bay there are many flocks of birds flying in unison. Many of these are pelicans. They look so graceful as they fly in large groups often in a straight line and sometimes in a V- shape, hovering just above the sea with the uplifts.  We also see large pods of dolphins and flying fish.
There are many large cargo ships anchored waiting to transit the canal.

Pedro Gonzales Island


We track 45 n.miles south-east to the Las Perlas Islands to drop the anchor late in the afternoon at the beautiful Isla Pedro Gonzales, just off a white sandy beach. Ashore are coconut palms and mango trees so we enjoy fresh coconuts and mangos to eat. What a treat! Sometimes  a young man comes around selling langousta. It is lovely swimming here and walking along the beach.
We are delighted to find Mawali anchored here. ( the Australians we met in the San Blas Islands). It is interesting to hear about their last few days and also to discuss with them which is the best route to the Galapagos considering the weather and wind forecasts.
Tonight there are masses of fire flies in the water at the stern of the boat. This is a lovely sight as we leave to row over to Mawali in the dark. For some reason the dinghy starts well and then just konks out. The following morning Rob checks it and realizes there is water in the fuel. The fuel level is getting low so the filtering system won´t let the fuel through with the water in it. He thinks the water is just a collection from the condensation from the extremely hot weather over a long period of time. Once the water is separated out the dinghy goes reliably again.
We decide to track slightly west of south out of the Panama Gulf. There has been much contradictory talk about adverse or favourable currents. The one definite piece of information is the winds are light so the question is how far south to go before turning west to the Galapagos Islands.
Glen´s (skipper on Mawali) grid-files suggest going 100 n.miles further south than Jimmy Cornell´s waypoint. The prospect ahead looks like doing a lot of motor sailing but we hope to get enough wind to enjoy motor sailing and maybe some sailing.

Wednesday 18th. April – day 1
We decide to track 207 degrees (west of South) before turning west towards the Galapagos when we hope to get some wind on the port tack.


The calm Pacific

During the afternoon Ross sees a marlin leap into the air right by the boat. I saw one way off in the distance. They make a huge splash when they land back in the water.
At sunset we have a display by the dolphins. It is as if they are showing off to us.
Tonight there is beautiful phosphorescence in the wake of the yacht.
At 7.30 we pass by a fishing fleet, some with lights marking their fishing nets, which is a great idea. During the night we all see some cargo ships during our night watch. One is on a collision course from 24 n.miles away and as it comes closer I am contemplating what to do when it changes course and passes by 1.2 n.miles away, which is a great relief.
We have been warned to look out for large logs that float out from some rivers in South America. Yachts have suffered substantial damage from these eg a broken rudder. We actually see many logs over the next few days, and some of them are quite substantial.

Thursday 19th. April – day 2
Today is Alexander´s first birthday. It is wonderful to be able to ring to sing Happy Birthday to him.
The ocean is like glass as we seem to glide over it. There are still only a few kts. of wind, which is just enough to set up a breeze to keep us cool.
Ross tries to join the morning sched. to see if there are other yachts anywhere near by. Unfortunately the reception isn´t very clear so he plans to try again tomorrow.
At sunset there is another wonderful display from the dolphins. They are some distance from Impulsive but are leaping high into the water with twists, and making huge splashes when they land. It makes for great entertainment as we have our happy hour drink. ( we still don´t drink alcohol while we are overnight sailing).
Another lovely sight is seeing 3 large birds having a ride on one of the large floating logs. We also see a very large turtle pass by. We hope it is all right so far from shore. Rob did see it lift its head. There is another myriad of bright stars out here tonight, and again phosphorescence in the wake.
Ross speaks to Bruce Buckley, the weather adviser who suggests we change our next waypoint to track slightly further west but an extra 100 n.miles south to below 2 degrees i.e. a total of another 300 n.miles before turning towards the Galapagos Islands i.e. another 400n.miles, where we should find more wind and in the direction we need to sail.

Friday 19th. April – day 3
Today Ross speaks with the software  creator  in California who finally sorts out the onsat mail. We are all very pleased to be back on the air with this system, especially after all the time and effort Ross, Scott and Rob have put into it.
We have tracked into 12-13 kt. winds on the nose most of the day. Later the seas became a bit choppy.
Now we can use the onsat mail we can have more regular weather updates with Bruce. During the night our plans change due to a disorganized band of thunder storms around 3N 90 W. We can see constant huge streaks of lightening in that direction. This has caused an indraft  -  winds blowing into the convergence zone. This has improved the winds to our west which will only be about 10 kts. most of the time, but means we can now head directly for the Galapagos Islands. These southerlies will probably only last for 24 hours so we should make the most of them.
Sunday and Monday are forecast to have variable winds but only about 6 kts. It seems we will have a lot of motoring this leg.
During the watches after midnight we all saw a lovely large, white bird hovering about the boat. It looked beautiful as it fluttered in the soft lights shed across the water from the yacht. Also during the early hours Ross and Rob saw a large pod of about 100 dolphins leaping out of the water not far from the boat.

Saturday 20th April – day 4
The winds are up to 15-16 knots and Ross has taken a course lightly more to starboard so the wind is on the beam. With both sails up we should be averaging at least 6.5 kts just sailing, but with a variable and sloppy sea we are lucky to be making 5kts. We sail for about 7 hours. Unfortunately the wind drops out at midday and the motor is needed again.
Later tonight the winds come further round to the south and our speed picks up a knot. Ross is able to put the headsail up.
Another change of plan comes in from Bruce. The thunderstorm activity is supposed to be far enough away from us that we should have indirectly benefited from the inflow without the hazards of the storms themselves
We should ease 30n.miles further to the south even though it will be difficult with the s.w wind direction. It should give us more southerly in the wind direction and keep us further away from the direct active storm area. Then we can turn towards Christobel again. The winds will be patchy.
Later we marvel at the accuracy of Bruce´s decisions. Because the motor sailing is doing well ,  Ross is seduced into staying on this course. Ross misread Bruce´s  advice to head further south immediately rather than gradually and after some time you can see on the radar we are engulfed in a heavy rainstorm with the winds going in all directions and water washing over the deck. It is quite a lively storm so we furl the headsail. Two previous storms showed up in the same way but Ross had been able to avoid them. These conditions make for a rough and choppy sea, which isn´t very comfortable and makes it difficult to sleep.
 Ross changes our course a long way further to port but it takes sometime to clear the  storm. It seems to follow us. Being able to see this turbulent weather on the radar is a great advantage.

Sunday 21st April – day 5
We are out of the thunderstorm area now but there may be some passing showers.
The winds are shifting from SSE to SE during the next 24hours varying from 7-12 kts.to 3 to 8 kts. Closer to the Galapagos we can expect breezes more from ESE.
Tonight and the following day (day 6) are quiet, motor-sailing with the mainsail and headsail up most of the time. Ross checked our fuel yesterday and we still have more than half a tank full.
Ross puts the trolling line out on dusk with a new lure. He feels pressure on the line soon after he puts it in the water but whatever was there, and the lure, are gone.
Tonight Bruce agrees with Ross´ plan to track a little further north , about 15 degrees
To improve the wind angles as the winds shift SSE then SE and near the Galapagos from ESE. Wind speeds to vary from 5-10 kts.  so still very light. Here is no adverse current now.
The thunderstorm activity is sufficiently far  north and west not to be a problem.

Early this evening Ross and Rob see another large pod of dolphins. Also there a few birds visiting the yacht and it is amazing to think of how far they are from land.
We have a lovely dinner in the cockpit tonight sailing (very slowly) and watching the new moon slowly sinking below the horizon. It is a wonderfully clear night and the sky is filled with bright stars. There is a lovely feeling of space and freedom out here.
I have spent a lot of time on night watch filing photos on the computer. It is a task that is long over due.

 April 23rd. Day 7
Rob comments this morning that the scenery is the same!  360 degrees of clear horizon and blue seas and skies. The temperature has dropped considerably as we track further south.
Today Ross is keeping the speed below 7kts. because we want to arrive in San Cristobel in the daylight tomorrow morning. It is very calm out here with hardly any swell and very light winds as forecast. We are motorsailing with the headsail and mainsail up.
Our bread supplies have run out today so there is bread baking in the oven. I hope it works well because Ross and Rob are looking forward to it.
Sunset is lovely again with visits from dolphins and a few birds.

The moon is a larger crescent tonight, brighter and higher in the sky so is casting a soft reflection over the water. At 9.30 pm it slowly sinks below the horizon just as we cross the equator. Ross and Rob have already gone to bed so it is a very quiet celebration under the most magnificent clear, starlit sky.
After a calm night we arrive at the Galapagos at dawn having watched the speed to arrive at first light rather than in the dark, and drop the anchor at San Cristobel at 8.30am.



The crossing is uneventful except for Rob falling into the engine room, and the heavy engine room door coming down unexpectedly on Ross´ hand. Fortunately both were almost unscathed, but it reminds us how quickly things can happen and what care we should take to avoid this sort of thing occurring.
For boat issues, during day 6 a whistling noise starts up when there is extra load put on the engine. Ross and Rob initially think it is the alternator belt, but discover it is the belt to the engine´s water pump, which they tighten. It will have to replaced before we leave the Galapagos.