2nd. September 2009
We call Sam Macaw for his 7th. birthday. It is lovely to hear him so excited and enthusiastic about it all. We look forward to catching up with him properly when we get home.
We set sail for Porto de Llanca. The wind comes round more from the south, earlier than forecast, but by coming off 10 degrees, we can still average about 5.5kts.
As we sail past Cerbere we cross the french/spanish border. Port Bou is the first port on the Spanish side. This is very pleasant tracking along this charming, irregular coastline.
Porto de Llanca is an attractive former fishing harbour now concentrating on tourism. It used to export olive oil, marble and wine.
As soon as we can we fly our Spanish flag. It is etiquette to fly the host country´s flag above your own.
Flying the Spanish flagAfter giving Impulsive a well needed wash down and thorough clean, we enjoy a walk followed by dinner at the yacht club at the marina. This restaurant is high up with a view over the village and the port. Fortuitously the the owner here speaks some english.
We are surprised how quiet the village is and there are very few in the restaurant. He explains how in July/August there are 30,000 people here, and now there are very few. By mid-September he closes down as there will be no holiday makers at all. It is amazing how the seasons here are so marked.
The red wine here is said to still be one of the strongest to be found. I believe it after only having .5 of a glass of it and having the wildest dreams I´ve ever had .
The marina here is surprisingly expensive, even compared to France, because they are privately owned in Spain, and publicly run in France.
We are disappointed to realize we were actually in Cadaques the same day as the Mulders. We hoped we could catch up somewhere in this area even though it would be brief because of our different schedules. Victor and Barb think they saw us approaching Cadaques on Impulsive.
3rd. September 2009
We set off this morning with 15kts. of wind to sail averaging 5.5kts. Later there are gusts up to 26 kts. Now the speed increases to 7.5 kts. Ross is experimenting with holding the mainsail in a reef position (.75 of the way up) to prevent it blowing off the spindle. This is planning ahead for our coming long ocean sails.
The Costa Brava is lovely to sail along with its small villages down to the sea, nestled into the wooded backdrop and mountains behind. These are interspersed with the rugged and barren landscape also sloping down to the sea.
We track about 8 n.miles to Cabo Bono in time for a late lunch. This is an isolated , beautiful, tiny cove. We swim in the azure water here and do some drawing and painting.
Cabo bona4th. September, 2009
We wake up to a large swell this morning so decide to leave early to track 4 n.miles south to Port Lligat.There are many fisherman still out, and many coming in at this time.
We plan to anchor here to go ashore to visit the artist, Dali´s house. We are not permitted to anchor so decide to track around to Cadaques where we know we can moor safely. Also it seems unnecessary to pay two mooring fees in a day.
We take a dinghy ride ashore for Ross´jog and my jog/walk around the nearby headland. Along this coastal path, Ptjal de ses Oliviers, must be one of the most picturesque places we have been.
A view along the coastal walk
A view along the coastal walkThis is followed by a refreshing swim off the back of the boat.
Just as we begin to prepare breakfast and boil the kettle we hear "good morning" at the stern of Impulsive. What a wonderful surprise to see Ramon. He spotted Impulsive from their house and ventured out to see us, just in time for a cup of coffee on board.
We are embarrassed we aren´t flying the catalan flag especially as we are moored next to Ramon and Angeles´boat.
There are many boats moored at Cadaques and Ramon explains by mid-October they, and their moorings, are all lifted out of the water because the strong easterly winds come in then and there is no protection from this wind.
View over the harbour from Ramon and Angeles` gardenLocal knowledge is invaluable. eg. we thought we would walk back to Port Lligat to visit Dali´s house but Ramon explains you need to book a time to view this house, which he kindly does for us, the earliest available in 4 hours time!
Ramon takes us over there in his small, antique, sky blue fiat, which is nearly 50 years old. This was his father´s car and is kept in immaculate condition. It is a great experience to ride in this very special automobile.
Ramon´s fiat
Dali´s house
The house itself is an amazing place, made up of a number of fisherman´s huts bought over the years. It has many small rooms, but so full of character, and so much thought for detail in the decor and artefacts.
Photo of Salvadore Dali
View through a window on the Terrace
The famous egg-shape dali used many timesLater this afternoon we take Ramon and Angeles sailing. We sail downwind for a start which seems deceptively quiet, but the wind comes up and coming back we have to beat into a wind gusting up to 35 kts. This turns into an exciting and most willing sail! All is well apart from the worry of stress on the sails and rigging.
Calm before the wind comes up
Sailing out of CadaquesThere is also a top of the range restaurant not far away which is considered one of the best in the world. We are very keen to try to make a booking here until Ramon mentions it is very expensive, costing €500.00 ($1,000.00) a couple! We decide dinner on Impulsive is a better option.
5th. September 2009
Little cove we passed on our early morning walk
This morning we repeat yesterday´s exercise regime, including exercises. We like to keep fit generally but still feel it´s important when we are sailing.
Swimming carnival
The highlight this morning is the carnival swim with 500 competitors. Unfortunately the wind has come up as forecast and the course has been changed from 6 ks. from a nearby cove to just around the bay here. On the home run it is particularly difficult for the swimmers heading into the wind and a very choppy sea. The course takes them right beside our boat which is a great place to watch from. The sea has been so choppy we have slept in the stern- port cabin the last 2 nights because the groaning on the mooring lines has been so loud.
We have planned to be moored here for a few days until the weather settles. We catch the bus into Figueroles , Dali´s birthplace,to visit the Teatre-Museu Dali.
Teatre-Museo dali
Dali wanted this museum seen as a whole. He conceived and designed everything in it to give the observer the opportunity of entering his unique and fascinating world. Some of his famous paintings are housed here too. It illustrates his earliest works and his surrealist period up to the last works of his life.
Bronze scupturesThe bus timetable is very infrequent now the height of the season is over, so we spend time wandering about Figueroles and have a delicious tapas dinner in a small, cosy bar.
Figueroles is an old and attractive town. We enjoy watching the evening lights come on about 8.30pm., when we catch the bus back to Cadaques, which takes about 1.5 hours. Cadaques is very lively, still celebrating and partying after the swim apparently, with live bands playing in the main square.
6th. September 2006
The weather is settling this morning so we make plans to track further down the coast.
Ross calls Ramon to thank them for all their generous hospitality , and to say good-bye. He and Angeles invite us to go out with them on their boat to a nearby cove for a swim and lunch with some of their friends. This is too lovely an invitation to refuse. However we take Impulsive and follow them as they usually stay out until about 6pm. on these outings and we need to leave by 4.30pm to be organized by dark.
Following Ramon to the cove for the picnicWhat a lovely experience to share with them one of their great pleasures. Swimming here is beautiful even though the water is beginning to have a brisk edge to it. And what a delicious lunch on board their boat, Bonavista. This is in the same immaculate condition as their car.
There is a house here referred to , even on their charts, as the Australian´s house. it was built by an Australian 25 years ago.
We greatly appreciate they all speak mostly english to include us in their conversations. It obviously wasn´t always easy for them. It is such a treat for us to have an experience like this, behind the tourist scene.
Angeles has a great sense of humour. Ross had been trying to encourage them to say , when some unexpected gusts of wind came up "it´s bloody windy, mate". Later in the afternoon when some wind suddenly disrupted the serenity of the scene Angeles said "it´s bloody windy!" I wish I could speak as many languages as Angeles. She speaks Catalan, Spanish and three other languages, as well as having an excellent grasp of English.
After a beautiful afternoon in Cala Guillola (a small cove) we leave at 4.30pm. We are hoping to catch up in Barcelona, and there are plans in the making for Ramon and Angeles´ next trip to Australia.
Leaving for las Ilas Medes
We motor sail with the headsail up 12 n.miles to las Ilas Medes . As a result of the strong winds over the previous few days there is a large, uncomfortable swell.
It is surprising as we round the n.west corner of the relatively small Isla Meda Grande the sea calms and there are protected moorings where Ross plans to stay overnight. This group of steep islands are uninhabited and are a marine reserve.
We are able to moor here for the night, but had to leave time before dark to track across to Puerto de LÉstartit if necessary.
It is lovely to be moored in a marine reserve only .5 n.mile from the coast and its bustling. The moon rises as a large golden ball up between Isla Meda Grande and Isla Meda Petita, throwing its golden reflections across the water to shimmer on Impulsive. We think this must be a good omen as we enjoy our moonlit barb-e-que.
7th. September 2009
Sunrise at las Ilas MedesToday is a catch-up day on Impulsive, including reading, drawing and painting.
Later in the day we walk up to the summit of Isla Meda Grande to the lighthouse where there is a 360 degrees panoramic view of the area. The snorkeling here is superb, especially as this has been a protected area for 25 years. Some of the many fish swim up to our goggles, and the waters are beautiful colours from darker indigo blue through to crystal clear turquoise.
We are reading peacefully in the cockpit just after 9.30pm when we have a visit from two very pleasant young men. They are from the authorities and say we are not permitted to moor here overnight, as Raymond had mentioned. However the pilot book says it is permitted , so that´s why we stayed here last night, as did two other yachts. We happen to be the only yacht here tonight and are enjoying it.
Ross shows them the pilot book and explains we have had a glass of wine, and we never drink and sail. They still say we have to move as they leave us saying they have to check elsewhere but they will be back. . We wait up for some time but it soon becomes apparent they have kindly turned a blind eye to us.
8th. September 2009
There is quite a swell this morning so we leave early to track for only four n.miles just west of south to Cala de sa Tuna. The landscape changes here to steep cliffs with their soft pink tinges dropping directly into the sea.
Cala de sa TunaI am ashamed I obviously haven´t done my homework adequately. I really thought we would just be filling in time tracking along the Costa Brava to Barcelona, and needed extra time in case we were held up by the Tramontane. This can happen for up to five days at a time apparently. This coastline and its villages are wonderful.
Cala de sa Tuna is a tranquil, tiny village. It has few houses, none with any interesting architecture, and only two restaurants, one of which is already closed for the end of the season.
There are a group of men bringing in the boats, and their moorings and chains to store them through winter.
Winterizing the boats and moorings
sa Tuna
We walk along the coastline (I´m running out of superlatives to describe this beautiful place) up to the ancient town of Begur. Somewhere we take the wrong turn up through a forest filled with marine pines and many varieties of birds including robin red breasts. This turns the walk into a 10ks. hike but is well worth it.
View looking up to Begur castle
View from the castle back across to las Ilas Medes
Begur
There is only room for a couple of yachts in this very small harbour. We are anchored here, and Ross is pleased he has put a stern line out to the nearby rocks as a swell developes again and it prevents too much rolling. We are so close to shore we can hear the small birds twittering and the cicadas shrilling.
View from the castle back across to las Ilas Medes
Begur
Impulsive anchored at Cala de sa TunaWe enjoy dinner on-shore tonight at the one restaurant open, situated right by the beach.
9th. September 2009
Coastal path for our morning walk
The beautifully clear water
We make time for our exercise regime, including a long swim this morning, and then head off to Tamariu where Ross expects we will have protection from the constant n.east swell. There has been no wind for two days now so we are not sure where it is coming from. There is no room to anchor close in so we tie up to a buoy further out to visit the village briefly. It hasn´t the same appeal for us as the last one but is attractive, and the same as Cala de sa Tuna , it has a sandy beach.
We track another two miles further down the coast to Llafranc. The marina is written up as always being fully booked. When we venture into this tiny port with very little manoeuvrability the the man on the diesel dock says there is no room. We understand him to say to come back and inquire again at 6pm. We leave and are just wondering where to go next when the man from the capitania comes by in his tender and invites us to come back in. It takes some sorting out but they find us one last available berth, making sure we understand it is usually full. We are delighted as this is another lovely place to stop. The architecture is much more interesting with the terra-cotta tiled roofs and attractive shutters on the old, victorian-style fishing houses which are now all tastefully renovated.
Spraying elastic zips to prevent them "freezing up"First we have a group of four young boys, who have been swimming, come to talk to us. They have excellent english and they enjoy coming on board to see how we live on the yacht, and something of how we sail her.
Later a father with his two young children arrives at the stern of Impulsive, on their bikes and carrying fishing rods. I recognize him from when we came in earlier and he was very welcoming. They were going out on their boat, which is typical of the smaller boats used here. They are made in a nearby village, and used for day trips to the nearby coves and rocky outcrops, to go fishing or swimming , picnicking and sun-baking.
Francesc is keen to come on board and is very enthusiastic about us having come all this way from Sydney. He is keen to learn to sail and someday do a similar trip with his wife. They are also keen to travel to Australia and Canada sometime.
We gave the children a very small present each. (We are so looking forward to seeing our grandchildren soon it was lovely to have these happy, healthy young people on board). Young Martin, aged 8, dashed off on his bike saying he had something special for us. He came back with his mother, Jemma, and a bag of goodies they had put together for our dinner - some speciality cold meats and a bottle of red wine.
Francsc and Jemma
Martin and Ada
Later Ross and I go ashore for a drink at a hotel, and then dinner at the restaurant Franesc and Jemma recommend. We always appreciate having local knowledge.
Jemma met us later for a cup of tea once the children are settled. Luckily her brother is able to bab-sit for a while. She is amused though because we have come to wrong restaurant - it´s name is similar to the one they suggested.
It is interesting to hear how young couples cope with family life in Barcelona. It is not easy. Usually both parents work but this means needing help to cope with the children´s school hours and the parent´s work schedules. The children go to school from 9am. to 5pm. with a 2 hour lunch break in the middle of the day. Jemma has organized for her two children to go home for lunch (Martin has special dietary requirements) but even so it is such a long day for youngsters. The major problem is that most parents don´t finish work until 9pm. so see very little of their children during the week. This must put huge pressures on society here. No-one has siestas anymore, so it is an extremely long day for the adults too.
Francesc has returned to Barcelona. He is a Catalan political journalist and needs to be there for reporting on Friday which is their national holiday. We are also grateful to know about this holiday as everything will be closed.
10th. September 2009
We go for our early morning jog/walk so we are back in time for Jemma and the children to come for breakfast on Impulsive. They are going out on a friend´s boat from the marina so it suits well.
Later we meet them at the restaurant Jemma had meant us to eat at last night. It is very colourful sitting looking over the beach with all its bright umbrellas.
View from the cafeWe are enjoying being here so much Ross asks if we can stay another night in the marina, but unfortunately the owner of our berth is returning this afternoon so we must move on. We decide to anchor just outside because the forecast is still very mild. Again a swell develops (from where we don´t know). Jemma has noticed this and generously invites us to stay the night. We accept gladly and return to Impulsive to have a relaxed afternoon.
Just as we are planning to have a light meal before we go ashore Jemma calls to say she is very embarrassed but she must cancel her invitation because her parents are coming for the night ,on their way to a wedding tomorrow. They have had this house for twenty five years so we quite understand their last minute decision.
A quiet night on board is always good for us!
11th. September 2009
View looking back to the anchorage on the walk to Cala Furgell
This morning we walk south around the headland to the next delightful cove, Cala Furgell, again with a sandy beach. It is the last preserved town before Barcelona. From Cala Furgell north it was made illegal many years ago to allow new buildings to be built more than three stories high.We have coffee with Jemma and the children and plan to see them all in Barcelona.
We track 15n.miles south-west to Tossa de Mar. There is not enough wind to sail but what wind there is, is directly behind us so flying the spinnaker would be perfect. unfortunately Ross has strained his back so this is out of the question. I´m not strong enough to pull it back in by myself. This turns out to be an excellent decision as the wind comes up to 19kts. in a n.easterly direction, and handling the spinnaker would have been very difficult. We sail with the headsail up. The foreca is for 2-4 kts.
There are many other boats out today, especially out of Porto de Feir de Guiscls. Also it is a holiday and long weekend.
At Tossa de Mer we tie up to a mooring because there is still quite a lumpy swell.
There is a long stretch of beach here, but it is a town of high-rises. We don´t bother going ashore here.
From here we sail with the headsail up, to Porto Blanes. There are still long stretches of rugged scenery between the coastal towns, but again it is the wooded slopes down to the sea, rather than the cliff faces.
Blanes
Small beach at Blanes
The cheery hibiscus which has flowered all the way from San Remo to Barcelona - we hope we can find a good home for it!
At Porto Bianes the man on the fuel dock says there is no room. There is still quite a swell and anchoring outside is no longer an option as the pilot book suggests you may. I can´t believe this as it is our last night to find somewhere safe for Impulsive for the night on this leg. We have been warned of this problem and have been worried of this happening during our time in the Mediterranean, especially if there is a sudden change for the worse in the weather forecast.
However my skipper is not to be deterred and ventures over to the other side of the marina where there are many serious fishing boats. We come stern - to next to another yacht in the same situation. Just as we finish tying up we hear a whistle from a skipper on a large tourist boat. Impulsive is in their berth so we will have to move. This skipper is very patient with us and in fact is very helpful. He suggests mooring up between two fishing boats as none of them will leave until Sunday night. This proves to be a very safe and peaceful mooring for the night.
However my skipper is not to be deterred and ventures over to the other side of the marina where there are many serious fishing boats. We come stern - to next to another yacht in the same situation. Just as we finish tying up we hear a whistle from a skipper on a large tourist boat. Impulsive is in their berth so we will have to move. This skipper is very patient with us and in fact is very helpful. He suggests mooring up between two fishing boats as none of them will leave until Sunday night. This proves to be a very safe and peaceful mooring for the night.
Secure between 2 serious fishing boats
This groin is like a promenade in the evening, and quite lively as people stroll by , or ride their bike. We have dinner at the marina restaurant looking over the sea and the town. We don´t walk into this town as it is large and another high-rise. Also it is so pleasant where we are , and with the small, nearby beach where we can swim.
Small beach at Blanes12th. September 2009
Blanes to Barcelona
This is a beautiful morning on the sea for motor-sailing calmly along with the headsail up. We pass long stretches of beaches, but these areas are becoming more cluttered with stark white high-rise buildings as we come closer to Barcelona. Levatane winds, the problem strong easterly winds in this area, have been forecast some days ago for this weekend, but fortunately this has been changed to light winds of 10-12 kts. from the s.east. We have a glorious last sail for the 34 n.miles to Barcelona.
Enroute we call into Porto Olmpico to check out the facilities here. It looks very well organized but the travel lift to bring a boat out of the water doesn´t seem very big and there isn´t much room for boats to be left on the hard stand over winter. Ross has to finalize all this and was hoping it may have been a good option, but it doesn´t seem very suitable.
Yachts at Port Vell involved in around the world racing
We are happy to be safely tied up at the end of our 4th. season sailing. We have had the most wonderful time, and shared a host of experiences. We look forward to exploring Barcelona and are excited to then be going home.
Blanes to Barcelona
This is a beautiful morning on the sea for motor-sailing calmly along with the headsail up. We pass long stretches of beaches, but these areas are becoming more cluttered with stark white high-rise buildings as we come closer to Barcelona. Levatane winds, the problem strong easterly winds in this area, have been forecast some days ago for this weekend, but fortunately this has been changed to light winds of 10-12 kts. from the s.east. We have a glorious last sail for the 34 n.miles to Barcelona.
Enroute we call into Porto Olmpico to check out the facilities here. It looks very well organized but the travel lift to bring a boat out of the water doesn´t seem very big and there isn´t much room for boats to be left on the hard stand over winter. Ross has to finalize all this and was hoping it may have been a good option, but it doesn´t seem very suitable.
Coming into Port Vell, the old harbour in the centre of Barcelona, is a spectacular sight and very memorable. It is a colourful time to arrive being Saturday evening. It is also reassuring to know we have a berth booked here - Ross had it organized before we left Australia.
Yachts at Port Vell involved in around the world racing
The cheery hibiscus which has flowered all the way from San Remo to Barcelona - we hope we can find a good home for it!Favourite recipe this leg:
Tapas - a well known traditional dish in Spain
There are many varieties of this. This happens to be the one we have.
Tomato bread -made by rubbing a cut tomato over the roll cut in half
Place on this a layer of mashed eggplant (peeled)
Then a layer of peppers grilled, marinated and sliced into fine strips
Place on top thin rounds of sliced goat´s cheese
Place under the griller and serve hot.
A plate of tiny green peppers, grilled and marinated
A plate of anchovies - marinated in lime juice, a light vinegarette dressing, and S. and P. to taste
A plate of razor clams doused in lime juice
Spain-to Barcelona
At Llanca it´s hot:it´s still summer here
But when we round Cabo Creus today
And find a buoy inside Cala dÍles
We find autumn is on its way
The great Pyrenees meet the sea at this point
And the coast is rugged and cut
Into lots of small bays with beaches and rocks
It´s a beautiful coastline,but
The price of this scenery´s the tramontane wind
Persistent and strong from north west
Which sings through our rigging in Cadaques bay
And puts our reefed sails to the test
(As Ramon would say:It´s bloody windy here mate.)
So we learn about Salvador Dali
And explore the Cadaques town
We picnic with Ramon and Angeles
And wait till the wind settles down
Now it has,and we´re moored at Las Islas Medes
Dorado is on tonight´s menu
And a long golden pathway extends to the moon
Not a bad anniversary venue?
Well,we open champagne which we drink with moonlight
And the barbequed fish is so good
As is Neil Diamond´s music,we think as we dance
We´d do it again if we could
We find that Sa Tuna is just as attractive
The cove´s sculpted free of the stone
You can walk to Begur ,you can swim,you can sketch
Impulsive´s here almost alone
We can´t stop as we´d hoped at Tamariu
For the swell from the east is too strong
This proves lucky:we end up instead at Llafranc
A week here would not be too long
We are taken in tow by Francesc and Gemma
And treated to Catalan fare
Pescadito frito follows whitebait son sos
And then ris l´estrata to share
At Tossa la Mar it´s too swelly again
But at Blanes(where they say there´s no space)
We tuck in between two huge fishing boats
Where we vanish with hardly a trace
It´s our last leg today and the weather is fine
We will tie up tonight at Port Vell
Right next to La Rambla at Barcelona
We´ll stay here until next May
What a fabulous 4 months.
September 09.
Barcelona
Barcelona, founded in the 3rd. century B.C., is a seaport city. It is the capitol of Catalonia autonomous region, and is the country´s principal industrial and commercial centre, as well as a major cultural centre. It is a very vibrant city and has the second largest population density in the world.
Our style is cramped for the first couple of days because Ross has problems with his back. Again we are grateful to our sister-in-law Ruth´s advice for medication. When Ross had difficulty walking I knew we had a problem! However the one advantage of staying on the boat is we are around to organize the different issues that need to be organized eg. the storm damage repairs, engine, generator and bow thrusters servicing, sail repairs , replacing a staysail etc. and finding someone to check Impulsive regularly while we are at home.
It s lovely to catch up with our friend Peter Churcher who is living with his family in Barcelona so he can follow his painting/art career. He comes onto Impulsive a couple of times with the children. His wife, Andrea is in Australia so we are are sorry to miss her. One afternoon Peter
takes us for a guided tour into the Barri Gotic, the Gothic Quarter, and brings it all to life for us as we wander through the classic medieval , narrow streets. We imagine we could easily get lost in these windings streets when we come back by ourselves. There are many grand buildings which were built during the prosperous times of the city dating back to C15.
The cathedral is a wonderful example of Gothic architecture with its particularly high and spacious interior.
Spain-to Barcelona
At Llanca it´s hot:it´s still summer here
But when we round Cabo Creus today
And find a buoy inside Cala dÍles
We find autumn is on its way
The great Pyrenees meet the sea at this point
And the coast is rugged and cut
Into lots of small bays with beaches and rocks
It´s a beautiful coastline,but
The price of this scenery´s the tramontane wind
Persistent and strong from north west
Which sings through our rigging in Cadaques bay
And puts our reefed sails to the test
(As Ramon would say:It´s bloody windy here mate.)
So we learn about Salvador Dali
And explore the Cadaques town
We picnic with Ramon and Angeles
And wait till the wind settles down
Now it has,and we´re moored at Las Islas Medes
Dorado is on tonight´s menu
And a long golden pathway extends to the moon
Not a bad anniversary venue?
Well,we open champagne which we drink with moonlight
And the barbequed fish is so good
As is Neil Diamond´s music,we think as we dance
We´d do it again if we could
We find that Sa Tuna is just as attractive
The cove´s sculpted free of the stone
You can walk to Begur ,you can swim,you can sketch
Impulsive´s here almost alone
We can´t stop as we´d hoped at Tamariu
For the swell from the east is too strong
This proves lucky:we end up instead at Llafranc
A week here would not be too long
We are taken in tow by Francesc and Gemma
And treated to Catalan fare
Pescadito frito follows whitebait son sos
And then ris l´estrata to share
At Tossa la Mar it´s too swelly again
But at Blanes(where they say there´s no space)
We tuck in between two huge fishing boats
Where we vanish with hardly a trace
It´s our last leg today and the weather is fine
We will tie up tonight at Port Vell
Right next to La Rambla at Barcelona
We´ll stay here until next May
What a fabulous 4 months.
September 09.
Barcelona
Barcelona, founded in the 3rd. century B.C., is a seaport city. It is the capitol of Catalonia autonomous region, and is the country´s principal industrial and commercial centre, as well as a major cultural centre. It is a very vibrant city and has the second largest population density in the world.
Our style is cramped for the first couple of days because Ross has problems with his back. Again we are grateful to our sister-in-law Ruth´s advice for medication. When Ross had difficulty walking I knew we had a problem! However the one advantage of staying on the boat is we are around to organize the different issues that need to be organized eg. the storm damage repairs, engine, generator and bow thrusters servicing, sail repairs , replacing a staysail etc. and finding someone to check Impulsive regularly while we are at home.
It s lovely to catch up with our friend Peter Churcher who is living with his family in Barcelona so he can follow his painting/art career. He comes onto Impulsive a couple of times with the children. His wife, Andrea is in Australia so we are are sorry to miss her. One afternoon Peter
takes us for a guided tour into the Barri Gotic, the Gothic Quarter, and brings it all to life for us as we wander through the classic medieval , narrow streets. We imagine we could easily get lost in these windings streets when we come back by ourselves. There are many grand buildings which were built during the prosperous times of the city dating back to C15.
The cathedral is a wonderful example of Gothic architecture with its particularly high and spacious interior.
It is marvelous to imagine the Romans standing around in their togas all those years ago, discussing politics in the main square. Also it is exciting to think of Christopher Columbus walking up the stairs here when he returned from his famous voyage, to be received by Isabella.
We finish the tour with a delicious tapas lunch in this area. Peter has certainly given us a marvellous insight into living in Barcelona, and he is keen to come sailing with us when we return next year.
It is fun exploring the Ramblas, the lively pedestrian mall, and there is a wonderful market here.
We finish the tour with a delicious tapas lunch in this area. Peter has certainly given us a marvellous insight into living in Barcelona, and he is keen to come sailing with us when we return next year.
It is fun exploring the Ramblas, the lively pedestrian mall, and there is a wonderful market here.
We enjoy a delicious lunch at Jemma´s cafe/delicatessen in the heart of the business district. We heard from another friend that the three delicatessens her parents own are famous, one in Madrid and two in Barcelona.
Jemma and Francesc have explained that people of our generation seem to find it difficult to retire, even though financially it is not a problem. They are continually encouraging Jemma´s parents to retire and enjoy themselves. They say they don´t know how to "stop". Jemma and Francesc have made their plans already that they are working towards so they can retire and do the things they want to do eg.extensive sailing. The are certainl highly motivated.
Jemma and Francesc have explained that people of our generation seem to find it difficult to retire, even though financially it is not a problem. They are continually encouraging Jemma´s parents to retire and enjoy themselves. They say they don´t know how to "stop". Jemma and Francesc have made their plans already that they are working towards so they can retire and do the things they want to do eg.extensive sailing. The are certainl highly motivated.
Ross is disappointed he is unable to play tennis with Ramon and his friends (with his back problems), but hopefully it will happen on our return trip. We have a wonderful dinner with Ramon and Angeles at Aqua, a very well appointed restaurant by the beach we sailed past when we went in to check Porto Olympica.
Ross is very pleased to be able to organize having the boat looked after while we are home in Australia. We have found a group of British ex-pats who work on this arm particularly to look after boats when people leave them for a long period of time. Their care will include running all the systems weekly, keeping Impulsive clean and repairing all the steel work (damage from the storm in Elba).
This all takes time to finalize. Our main concern now is the customs bureaucracy. We can only have the boat in European waters for 18 months before we must pay V.A.T. tax ie.16 percent of the value of the boat. One option is to leave the European waters for aminimum time, eg. sail over to Tunisia, and then return. Secondly, the boat can be lifted out of the water for the time we are away, and you can be given an exemption. Thirdly, you can obtain an exemption and leave the boat in the water. We had panned to have Impulsive lifted out of the water but their are not many opportunities for that here, and it is a much more expensive rate than applies if we leave her in the water at this marina.
Ross has endless frustrations organizing this and it takes a long time dealing with the bureaucracy. Customs have agreed to give us an exemption to leave her in the water but she must be sealed, which means no-one is able to go inside her without getting permission each time. This would be very difficult for the people maintaining her. The issue is still to be resolved, but the people who are looking after Impulsive know of other boats which have done this, and just had a large cutom´s sticker put on them intead of sealing the door. This is one more challenge for Ross to overcome. At least we know we are exempt from V.A.T. tax.
We haven´t seen as much of Barcelona as we had planned so we will make time when we return.
The lovely finale to our time away is having a few special days in Copenhagen with Scott, Jeanette, Auguta and Lily. We always enjoy our time here so much, and sharing part of their lifestyle. The weather is exceptionally good with warm, sunny days and no wind, so we are able to be oudoors for many outings.
Now we are looking forward to going home, to be with our family and friends there. This will be an unusual week for us - to see all our grandchildren within a few days.
Ross is very pleased to be able to organize having the boat looked after while we are home in Australia. We have found a group of British ex-pats who work on this arm particularly to look after boats when people leave them for a long period of time. Their care will include running all the systems weekly, keeping Impulsive clean and repairing all the steel work (damage from the storm in Elba).
This all takes time to finalize. Our main concern now is the customs bureaucracy. We can only have the boat in European waters for 18 months before we must pay V.A.T. tax ie.16 percent of the value of the boat. One option is to leave the European waters for aminimum time, eg. sail over to Tunisia, and then return. Secondly, the boat can be lifted out of the water for the time we are away, and you can be given an exemption. Thirdly, you can obtain an exemption and leave the boat in the water. We had panned to have Impulsive lifted out of the water but their are not many opportunities for that here, and it is a much more expensive rate than applies if we leave her in the water at this marina.
Ross has endless frustrations organizing this and it takes a long time dealing with the bureaucracy. Customs have agreed to give us an exemption to leave her in the water but she must be sealed, which means no-one is able to go inside her without getting permission each time. This would be very difficult for the people maintaining her. The issue is still to be resolved, but the people who are looking after Impulsive know of other boats which have done this, and just had a large cutom´s sticker put on them intead of sealing the door. This is one more challenge for Ross to overcome. At least we know we are exempt from V.A.T. tax.
We haven´t seen as much of Barcelona as we had planned so we will make time when we return.
The lovely finale to our time away is having a few special days in Copenhagen with Scott, Jeanette, Auguta and Lily. We always enjoy our time here so much, and sharing part of their lifestyle. The weather is exceptionally good with warm, sunny days and no wind, so we are able to be oudoors for many outings.
Now we are looking forward to going home, to be with our family and friends there. This will be an unusual week for us - to see all our grandchildren within a few days.
