Provence from the Sea

Provence
17th. August 2009
We are up early this morning to finish the jobs before it is too hot, eg. some anti-rust and some steel cleaning. The second gas tank has filled overnight so we are very pleased. It is always much hotter in the marinas than out on an anchorage.
Mid-morning we head off out to the Grand Rade and round Cap Cepet to the Baie de Cavalae. We stop the boat here to swim in the most wonderful water yet. When you look below the surface the colour is the most crystal clear and transluscent azure blue.
We continue tracking n.west to anchor in Baie de Ciotat. The weather is so perfect we would rather do this than tie up in the marina We feel freer and we can just dive off the boat to swim. Also it is much cooler out here with a gentle sea breeze

The Old Port

The shipping yards at the Old port


Early evening we go ashore. The old port is undergoing huge rennovations and reconstructions, both with its shipping and naval yards, and new hotel sites. We think it would be very hot and dusty in the heat of the day but will be charming when completed. We walk further round past the shipyards, through the gardens, to the two headland calanques.

Walking by the calanque

We decide to have an omelette for dinner on board it is such a beautiful night on board.

18th. August 2009
We wake to the most glorious , calm morning, idyllic for swimming in these pristine, turquoise waters. We can see the clean, white sand below, anchored in seven m. of water.
With no wind we motor along the stunning, high cliffed coastline towards Cassis. We are able to motorsail with the headsail with the headsail up across this bay to the Calanque, Port -Miou.
The calanques are inlets which are part of a steep sided valley invaded by the sea when its level rose because of the melting of the glaciers at the end of the Ice Age.
The capitainairie is most helpful here as we tie the bow to a mooring and the stern lines to two rings at the stern. We enjoy being the outside boat here as it seems more private and we are catching shade and a slight breeze.
The sports here are canoeing and jumping off at least 15m. high cliffs which is accompanied by a loud, happy whooping.
We take a memorable walk late this afternoon across to the next two calanques . It is spectacular scenery. The first is Port Pin, which is small and picturesque and surrounded by pine trees.

Port Pine



We then have a stiff climb up and over to the top of the cliffs of d´En Vau. Looking down into this narrow and very steep sided calanque (40-50m. high) is a wonderful sight, as is looking across to the massive and tall , some jagged and some rounded peaks of limestone, formations nearby, with the evening light falling across them.

d´En Vau calanque

It is 6.30pm. and still very hot so we have a refreshing plunge on the return walk at Port Pin calanque.

View across to Impulsive in the Calanque

View of Port-Miou calanque


Ross puts a flopper stopper out to reduce the swell from all the boats passing by.


19th. August 2009


Dinghy ride to head of the calanque to start of walk into Cassis

We take the 25 minute walk along the calanque and over the headland into Cassis, passing some magnificent houses, all with their views over the bay of Cassis.


Cassis

View over the beach at Cassis

Cassis port



We enjoy retracing our steps of this attractive small town from when we were here some years ago. Some tree-lined streets are closed off to the traffic for the market. It is till very much the height of the season here with people everywhere, including long queues for the ferries to visit the calanques.

The market at Cassis

We go on a wild goose chase with an inadequate street map to hire a car. It is probably just as well it is closed when we do find it because we discover the town recommended to see is a two hour drive away. We´ll try to go from Marseilles where we plan to hire a car anyway.
Instead we have a relaxed lunch on the waterfront in Cassis, and then take the long coastal walk back to Impulsive.

20th. August 2009
Ross calls SNM in the Old Port at Marseilles to book for Friday . It i fully booked because of a regatta of 55 boats coming in. This is a bit disheartening, but we are fortunate to be able to make a booking at CNTL marina, also in the Old Port.We particularly want to come into the marina because after having days of beautiful calm weather the wind is forecast to come up on Saturday for a few days. This is when we plan to do some inland exporing.
This morning we track past the calanques , heading further west. It is surreal out here early this morning with flat, calm water like glass, with a soft haze over it as we pass by the enormous cliff faces running straight down to the water and casting their reflections over its surface.

Canoeing past the limestone cliffs

We pass Port Pin and then detour into d´EnVau, and then to Morgiou Calaanqye, to see these places from the sea.There are several small and lovely coves as we track up to Calanque de Soumiou where we plan to stop for lunch and a swim. It is interesting to know there is an underwater cave here with prehistoric paintings dating back to 20,000B.C. Unfortunately it is too deep to view.
We decide to move on though as this is a more open calanque with restuarants and buildings and already looks busy with many boats and ferries coming and going.
We anchor at Isle Jaire, just off the mainland. There are only a few boats here. The few islands here are barren and rugged with nothing ashore. Is is a peaceful spot though and lovely watching many boats passing between the mainland and the islands.

Isle Jaire to port

This afternoon we track across to a small protected anchorage at Port de Pomeques on the southern Ile du Frioul. This is an attractive anchorage with its high jagged outlines. Marseille is now in view. It looks lovely at night as all the lights come on, especially those of the Notre Dame as it stands alone set high up on the hill.

Port de Pomeques

The skipper relaxing!

Youngsters having sailing lessons




21st. August 2009
Ile d´If is a short dinghy ride away. It is another limestone island. Chateau d´If was completed in 1531 as a fortress to defend Marseilles. Soon afterwards it was used as a prison.
This island is the setting for Alexandre Dumas´well known novel, the Count of Monte-Cristo. This creates the story of the only man to escape from this prison. The film is showing continually in Edmond Dantes´s (he becomes the Count of Monte- Cristo )prison cell, and we just happen to be there when it is showing the famous escape.


View from the chateau back across to Port de Pomeques where Impulsive is anchored

Looking from the chateau across to Marseilles

Coming into the old Port in Marseilles - the Cathedral


We tie up at the marina at lunch time and literally step off the stern of the boat to the club restaurant. We are presented with a delicious lunch at a very reasonable price.
After washing down the boat, Ross wanders off to hire a car only to find there is not one available in Marseille. It seems extraordinary but it is still the height of the season.
Tonight we venture to the seaside walk of the headland along the Cornice of J.F. Kennedy to the tiny and attractive port Vallon des Auffs. We have been recommended the famous bouillabaisse at Chez Fon Fon restaurant. It certainly is a very special dish.

22nd. August 2009
We are disappointed we are unable to see our dear friends, M. and Mme Chouillous who live in Montelimar, just due north of Marseilles, but unfortunately the are not very well. With the car hiring difficulties we decide to postpone our inland exploring again and enjoy Marseille.
Marseille, the second largest city in France, has a population of one million, and is one of France´s major seaports. It is located on the Gulf of Lion.
It is a very busy town, as is the old harbour. On this Saturday morning it is bustling with people everywhere.
The Marseillais are reknown for their laid-back attitude and sense of humour, different from anywhere else in France. We find the people we have contact with very like this.
Ross has a tour plan. The town is centred around the old port so we walk straight out to the quaiside of Rive-Neuve to buy the local La Marseille paper to check for events of the day over a french breakfast. We are searching for some theatre tonight but not with much luck. The theatres on this strip have nothing. The next stop is the tourist bureau and they have no ideas for this either, but give us a very clear map.
Walking along La Canabiere, the main street,we are amazed at the number of muslim women begging. We are also approached by numerous reasonably dressed french women as well, especially later along Quai du Port near the flower market.

The flower market

We then veer off to find one of the food markets which seemed very muslim influenced eg with many hal-el butchers. There are many colourful fabric shops in this area.
At the Palais des Arts there is an exhibition of Mediterranean Ports. These paintings are in chronological order dating from Marseilles´ first beginnings up to now. It is interesting to see the changes of styles over the years and the theme is very topical for us. We recognize many of the exhibits.


What a lovely sight outside the exhibition

The small train tour is the best way for us to visit the Old Town We could never have walked as far or seen so much on foot. We pass through Augustines square, where Boneparte lived after his exile from Corsica. The view of the entrance to the old port, including a glimpse of Impulsive, is panoramic.


The old town


View across marina up to Notre Dame

This old part of Marseille was the fisherman´s district. We get off up here to have a wander through the old and narrow streets. There is a strong artist´s colony up here, with painters, sculpturers and potters. After a light lunch in the grounds of the Vieille Charite hospital, we rejoin the train to return to the city centre.

Vieille Charite Hospital

The Musee d´Histoire is devoted to the city´s history.This includes the wreck of a ship dating from the 3rd. century B.C.
Again the small train is the best way for us to go up to Notre Dame de la Garde. It goes through the Corniche, past the Forts, the Pharo and the Abbey. Enroute there are several weddings enjoying having photos with the backdrop of the Frioul Islands.

Notre Dame de la Garde
_wonderful mosaics

Notre Dame is the only place we have been to in Marseille before (we stayed with people here many years ago who are no longer here). It is not disappointing to return to see this impressive view with its amazing overview of the city and the surrounding seas and islands.

View over the city

View over the islands

We return to Impulsive for a rest! Ross actually shops to provision the boat for two days because with a good weather report he wants to leave early in the morning.
Early evening we stroll up to Jardin du Pharo to enjoy the gardens and the views (on the eastern headland of the entrance to the old port). We are hoping to hear the Edgar Quintet but it isn´t the right time.

View over the Old Port

We have a wonderful dinner at the yacht club again. This has an extra bonus that we are close at hand if another boat comes in late to tie up next to Impulsive, because the wind has come up now.


Stepping from the restaurant onto Impulsive


Map of our routes in Marseille


23rd. August 2009
Ross is continually watching the weather patterns here. We are trying to find a good weather window to track around the coast one hundred and forty n.miles. to Port Vendres. The well known mistrals occur to here, and a weak one was forecast for Saturday night. The mistrals are cold north-westerly winds that blow through the Rhone valley and Southern France towards the Mediterranean. That´s why we went into Marseille when we did.
Beyond here the problem is the north-westerly Tramontane winds which funnel down to the Mediterranean, through the Toulouse Gap between the Pyrenees and the Massif central. The danger is they can blow up very quickly, causing very short seas and can blow at very high force. Another issue is there are not many places along this coast to come in for protection.
We wake early today, and with the weather forecast still looking suitable, we leave at 7.30am . Soon the wind comes around to the n. east and we can sail with both sails up, off the beam. This is a lovely start to the day. Looking back Marseilles is enshrouded in cloud.
The small, cheery, yellow- flowering hibiscus we bought in San Remo is flourishing. it has eight buds opening up today.
The wind becomes very variable , from 8-20 knots, and later keeps changing direction as well. This is keeping the skipper on his toes!
About lunch time we pass by the flat Camarque area, the salt marshes of the Rhone delta, which is famous for its horses. From here we pass into the Languedoc - Roussillon area.

Favourite recipe this leg:
Carpaccio de saumon with lemon jest

Place slices of smoked salmon on lettuce leaves and drizzle with a light vinegarette and lemon jest
Arrange on the plate with artichoke hearts
slices of avacado
thin slices of camembert cheese
slices of cucumber
cherry tomatoes - halved
Serve with slices of pain de campagne


Provence and Languedoc-Roussillon

We anchor off at La Ciotat
The forecast is benign
The action,as usual,is by the old port
But Impulsive´s the best place to dine

At Port Miou we secure the bow to a buoy
And the stern to a 50 foot wall
We walk to calanques Port Pin and d´en Vau
Where the cliffs are jagged and tall

Cassis is only a short walk away
Will we find the place where we ate
Coquilles St Jaques 30 years ago?
We don´t.P´haps we left it too late

Port de Pomegues in the iles Frioul
Is sheltered and just a short sail
Dumas´fictional Count would have seen this bay
From his cell in the Ile d´If gaol

We find that Marseille´s full of bustle and life
There´s the port,there are markets galore
There´s the old part,Panier and still Notre Dame
Keeps close watch the whole length of the shore

There´s the Corniche and of course there´s the bouillabaise
Ours was served with 6 different fish
At chez Fon Fon perched up in the vallon des Auffes
It´s not cheap,but a memorable dish

Now we´re heading across the Golfe du Lyon
It´s notoriously windy here
The pilot talks "mistral" and "tramontane"
It succeeds in engendering fear

But the passage to Palavas les Flots
Is calm and we cook up a treat
Of local dorado and Herault rose
The bulk price here´s hard to beat

St Louis´the patron Saint of Sete
We arrive on his festival day
There´s jousting from boats on the town canal
And several more days of play

But we want to complete the Golfe du Lyon
So we set sail early today
If the weather holds as it´s forecast to
We´ll drop anchor at Collioure bay

We do,and enjoy the old town by the port
And the paintings there on display
Matisse and Derain used to come here to paint
And their work´s dotted round the bay

Port Vendres´a wonderfully sheltered port
Just as well for we´re taking a car
To Carcassonne and the Pyrenees
Raft the Aude,hike the tracks of haute Cathare

Now some wind arrives with Jenny and John
The best we´ve had all year
They introduce us to partying too
And a breakfast of oysters and beer.

August 09