HURGHADA TO PORT SUEZ
The drive back to Hurghada in the convoy is fascinating. They do 3 of these trips a day. We had at least 50 vehicles in our convoy which is usual. It is very well organized, leaving on time and having an organized break in the middle of the trip. We pass through fertile land fed by canals of the Nile as we leave Luxor. There is great activity with sugar cane in these areas, including trains carting it away. Then the landscape changes to dry, arid desert. Some hours later as we get nearer the coast the landscape changes again to rocky and then steep, rocky mountains. As we come out of this we can see the coast and are soon back in Hurghada. Our driver hasn't been here since he lived here 2 years ago, so we spend some time finding the marina which is new.
The driving of this trip is extraordinary. Every driver wants to be in the lead behind the first police truck and constantly vie for this position. Our driver is at the front for the second leg and this is fine until other vehicles try to break in. He then tries not to let them. It seems very dangerous when cars or trucks are coming in the opposite direction. One car finally did pull in ahead of us when waved in by the police. At the end of the convoy our car and the other driver are pulled over. Our driver is free to go but the other driver is detained for his erratic driving.
It takes some time to organize customs today (they did come by last night when we're looking for dinner). Also, only a few at the marina spoke decent English which didn't help. (We are always conscious of the fact we are unable to speak their language. We have bought a small Egyptian phrase and etiquette book but we never have it with us when we most need it.) We are finally free to leave at 1.30pm. We motor out into the Straits of Gubai and into the Gulf of Suez.
At 5.30pm we have another 18n.miles to go to our planned destination, but with the 20 kts of wind on the nose and not being able to arrive until after dark we drop anchor at Bluff Pt. on the very small Gubal Is. It has sand dunes over a rock base and a lighthouse. There are several up-market dive boats here and another yacht. There is an excellent wall dive here. We are a bit fussy now after snorkeling in the warmer, pristine waters further south, especially with this strong wind.
Ross changes the fuel filters here. He's becoming a bit of a natural.
The forecasts are inconsistent. Instead of the forecast minimal winds during the night they come up to 25kts so we are pleased we anchored when we did. We leave Bluff Pt. at midday when the winds have dropped to 15-20 kts and we are supposed to have the current with us by 2pm.
The forecast is for the winds to drop this afternoon and then be minimal through to Friday, so we plan to do the overnight sail to Port Suez. So far these forecasts have not been correct: now the winds are up to 23 kts and we are not quite straight into it. We have the mainsail up to steady the boat. The waterway is not very wide here and we can see land on each side.
There are many oil rigs, and cargo ships in the traffic separation zone.
We cross to the east side of this zone as several people have advised us this is more protected. We have steeper waves as we cross. Now we are passing by the coast of Sinai Peninsular. This a very hazy outlook over a desolate and harsh landscape, with sand dunes rising up to rocky, razor backed mountains. This is sound advice as the wind drops 2 hours later back to 18kts and the waves subside to half a meter. We have dinner watching a soft sunset over the Sinai coast.
It is now more rocky and rugged down to the sea with very few signs of habitation. There seem to just a few outposts associated with the oil rigs. Looking across to the west coast we can see many more oil rigs and their flares, especially now as it's getting darker. This is the coastline we traveled along in the bus to Cairo.
We have a most unpleasant night. The wind comes up again and we are slapping into it. Then the radar and chart plotter go out at 2am. So much for this fancy, expensive equipment! This may be a well respected company but we are not impressed at all. Luckily, with the time difference Ross can contact Mark in Sydney. Ross is able to ascertain it is the scanner that is the problem and is able to get the chart plotter going again. It is now 2.30am. so we have until daybreak to run without the radar. Fortunately, we have passed most of the rigs marked on the chart and can still travel just outside the shipping channel.
Port Suez:
It is lovely to be welcomed by the agent here, and then tied up safely, early the following day. We spend a quiet time getting organized, including Ross going up the mast to check that the scanner isn't just stuck somehow. Then we slept for 2 hours.
The yacht club here is small. We are situated right by a minaret for the calling. We just tune out now, but we won't miss it when we leave Egypt.
The agent, Captain Heebi, is very efficient and friendly. This afternoon he turns up with an amazing bunch of flowers for us. He spends time with Ross sorting out the computer. They work out it is the 12 v. adaptor that isn't working. He fortunately has a car going to Cairo this afternoon so may be able to get us a new one in time.
Baksheech is a real problem here. Several others are continually coming to the boat asking to do helpful things and openly asking for baksheech. One of them just comes to sit on the boat and settles in. We made the mistake in accepting his offer to bring fresh bread in the morning.
It is very exciting to be travelling along the Suez Canal. We are now forthright in saying we need a rest and ask him to leave.
We go ashore for dinner . We are warned there isn't much there but one of the security men tells us about a local place which has seafood. It is a tiny little cafe but very good. There has been excitement here today because the actor Omar Shariff is in town for a film production.
The following day Captain Heebi organizes to have the yacht measured so we can pay to go through the Suez Canal. He is also able to organize the Ray Marine men to come and check the radar. The weather forecast is very poor so we won't plan to leave until Sunday. There is nothing to do at Port Suez so we have a relaxed day and catch up with odd jobs on the yacht.
Friday is a holiday so the Ray Marine men choose to come at 7.30pm. They are the same 2 who came to us at Hurghada, plus a computer expert. They are extremely obliging since they come from Pt. Said which is nearly a 3 hour drive. They ask Ross to go up the mast and bring the scanner down. He goes up but is unable to unplug it in the dark, even with the torch. He has to lower the bosun's chair down for one of their guys to go up and help. This is very dangerous as the man they send up is heavy and as Ross holds the scanner for him - he is not supported anywhere especially when this guy reaches out for support from Ross. It is also very cold up there and they are there for some time. This has all been caused by a faulty installation. It wasn't wired correctly and an earth wire has been left exposed so made contact with some metal up in the scanner and caused it to fuse out. They rewired it and all is working well again.
Actually, it just had to be taped correctly.
During this exercise we have a call from Phil. They have just arrived in Turkey and he says the forecast up through the Med. is good. This is the opposite to what our agent is saying , which is very strange. We decide to take Phil's advice and at least begin our trip up the canal. We have to take a pilot on board to do this so one is booked for the morning.
We watch many cargo ships go up the canal. Depending on their size they can pay up to $u.s.1,000,000- to do this.
We have to move Impulsive very early this morning to catch the tide and be ready to leave at 10am. It will be low tide at that time and it is very shallow by the jetty.
The Canadian yacht on the other side of the jetty had an unpleasant experience. They had engine problems and requested a tow which wasn't very far and were charged $U.S.15,000- by the Egyptian navy. Somehow they had this reduced to $U.S.7,500- but it is still exorbitant.
Our pilot comes on board at 10am. The computer part has just arrived apparently so he is happy to wait for 15 minutes while Capt. Heebi brings it out to us. We are so grateful for his assistance while we have been here.
Our departure is a little late so the pilot puts the boat into full throttle. The reason is the army wants to put up the bridges further along the canal. There are these temporary bridges at different intervals along the way.
It is very exciting to be traveling along the Suez Canal when one thinks of how it was built and its history.
Our pilot is very competent, and easy to have on board. I seem to have been making endless cups of tea and coffee for people who have been on board lately, and he is no exception. He likes to have 6 teaspoons of sugar. They all request lots of sugar. We have noticed the Egyptians have dental problems - it's no wonder. Many of the obviously poorer people have teeth missing so maybe dentistry is very expensive here.
