Provence from the Sea

Provence
17th. August 2009
We are up early this morning to finish the jobs before it is too hot, eg. some anti-rust and some steel cleaning. The second gas tank has filled overnight so we are very pleased. It is always much hotter in the marinas than out on an anchorage.
Mid-morning we head off out to the Grand Rade and round Cap Cepet to the Baie de Cavalae. We stop the boat here to swim in the most wonderful water yet. When you look below the surface the colour is the most crystal clear and transluscent azure blue.

We continue tracking n.west to anchor in Baie de Ciotat. The weather is so perfect we would rather do this than tie up in the marina We feel freer and we can just dive off the boat to swim. Also it is much cooler out here with a gentle sea breeze

The Old Port

The shipping yards at the Old port

Early evening we go ashore. The old port is undergoing huge rennovations and reconstructions, both with its shipping and naval yards, and new hotel sites. We think it would be very hot and dusty in the heat of the day but will be charming when completed. We walk further round past the shipyards, through the gardens, to the two headland calanques.

Walking by the calanque

We decide to have an omelette for dinner on board it is such a beautiful night on board.

18th. August 2009
We wake to the most glorious , calm morning, idyllic for swimming in these pristine, turquoise waters. We can see the clean, white sand below, anchored in seven m. of water.
With no wind we motor along the stunning, high cliffed coastline towards Cassis. We are able to motorsail with the headsail with the headsail up across this bay to the Calanque, Port -Miou.
The calanques are inlets which are part of a steep sided valley invaded by the sea when its level rose because of the melting of the glaciers at the end of the Ice Age.
The capitainairie is most helpful here as we tie the bow to a mooring and the stern lines to two rings at the stern. We enjoy being the outside boat here as it seems more private and we are catching shade and a slight breeze.
The sports here are canoeing and jumping off at least 15m. high cliffs which is accompanied by a loud, happy whooping.

We take a memorable walk late this afternoon across to the next two calanques . It is spectacular scenery. The first is Port Pin, which is small and picturesque and surrounded by pine trees.

Port Pine

We then have a stiff climb up and over to the top of the cliffs of d´En Vau. Looking down into this narrow and very steep sided calanque (40-50m. high) is a wonderful sight, as is looking across to the massive and tall , some jagged and some rounded peaks of limestone, formations nearby, with the evening light falling across them.

d´En Vau calanque

It is 6.30pm. and still very hot so we have a refreshing plunge on the return walk at Port Pin calanque.

View across to Impulsive in the Calanque

View of Port-Miou calanque

Ross puts a flopper stopper out to reduce the swell from all the boats passing by.


19th. August 2009

Dinghy ride to head of the calanque to start of walk into Cassis

We take the 25 minute walk along the calanque and over the headland into Cassis, passing some magnificent houses, all with their views over the bay of Cassis.

Cassis

View over the beach at Cassis

Cassis port

We enjoy retracing our steps of this attractive small town from when we were here some years ago. Some tree-lined streets are closed off to the traffic for the market. It is till very much the height of the season here with people everywhere, including long queues for the ferries to visit the calanques.

The market at Cassis

We go on a wild goose chase with an inadequate street map to hire a car. It is probably just as well it is closed when we do find it because we discover the town recommended to see is a two hour drive away. We´ll try to go from Marseilles where we plan to hire a car anyway.
Instead we have a relaxed lunch on the waterfront in Cassis, and then take the long coastal walk back to Impulsive.

20th. August 2009
Ross calls SNM in the Old Port at Marseilles to book for Friday . It i fully booked because of a regatta of 55 boats coming in. This is a bit disheartening, but we are fortunate to be able to make a booking at CNTL marina, also in the Old Port.We particularly want to come into the marina because after having days of beautiful calm weather the wind is forecast to come up on Saturday for a few days. This is when we plan to do some inland exporing.

This morning we track past the calanques , heading further west. It is surreal out here early this morning with flat, calm water like glass, with a soft haze over it as we pass by the enormous cliff faces running straight down to the water and casting their reflections over its surface.

Canoeing past the limestone cliffs

We pass Port Pin and then detour into d´EnVau, and then to Morgiou Calaanqye, to see these places from the sea.There are several small and lovely coves as we track up to Calanque de Soumiou where we plan to stop for lunch and a swim. It is interesting to know there is an underwater cave here with prehistoric paintings dating back to 20,000B.C. Unfortunately it is too deep to view.
We decide to move on though as this is a more open calanque with restuarants and buildings and already looks busy with many boats and ferries coming and going.

We anchor at Isle Jaire, just off the mainland. There are only a few boats here. The few islands here are barren and rugged with nothing ashore. Is is a peaceful spot though and lovely watching many boats passing between the mainland and the islands.

Isle Jaire to port

This afternoon we track across to a small protected anchorage at Port de Pomeques on the southern Ile du Frioul. This is an attractive anchorage with its high jagged outlines. Marseille is now in view. It looks lovely at night as all the lights come on, especially those of the Notre Dame as it stands alone set high up on the hill.

Port de Pomeques

The skipper relaxing!

Youngsters having sailing lessons

21st. August 2009
Ile d´If is a short dinghy ride away. It is another limestone island. Chateau d´If was completed in 1531 as a fortress to defend Marseilles. Soon afterwards it was used as a prison.
This island is the setting for Alexandre Dumas´well known novel, the Count of Monte-Cristo. This creates the story of the only man to escape from this prison. The film is showing continually in Edmond Dantes´s (he becomes the Count of Monte- Cristo )prison cell, and we just happen to be there when it is showing the famous escape.

View from the chateau back across to Port de Pomeques where Impulsive is anchored

Looking from the chateau across to Marseilles

Coming into the old Port in Marseilles - the Cathedral

We tie up at the marina at lunch time and literally step off the stern of the boat to the club restaurant. We are presented with a delicious lunch at a very reasonable price.
After washing down the boat, Ross wanders off to hire a car only to find there is not one available in Marseille. It seems extraordinary but it is still the height of the season.
Tonight we venture to the seaside walk of the headland along the Cornice of J.F. Kennedy to the tiny and attractive port Vallon des Auffs. We have been recommended the famous bouillabaisse at Chez Fon Fon restaurant. It certainly is a very special dish.

22nd. August 2009
We are disappointed we are unable to see our dear friends, M. and Mme Chouillous who live in Montelimar, just due north of Marseilles, but unfortunately the are not very well. With the car hiring difficulties we decide to postpone our inland exploring again and enjoy Marseille.
Marseille, the second largest city in France, has a population of one million, and is one of France´s major seaports. It is located on the Gulf of Lion.
It is a very busy town, as is the old harbour. On this Saturday morning it is bustling with people everywhere.
The Marseillais are reknown for their laid-back attitude and sense of humour, different from anywhere else in France. We find the people we have contact with very like this.
Ross has a tour plan. The town is centred around the old port so we walk straight out to the quaiside of Rive-Neuve to buy the local La Marseille paper to check for events of the day over a french breakfast. We are searching for some theatre tonight but not with much luck. The theatres on this strip have nothing. The next stop is the tourist bureau and they have no ideas for this either, but give us a very clear map.

Walking along La Canabiere, the main street,we are amazed at the number of muslim women begging. We are also approached by numerous reasonably dressed french women as well, especially later along Quai du Port near the flower market.

The flower market

We then veer off to find one of the food markets which seemed very muslim influenced eg with many hal-el butchers. There are many colourful fabric shops in this area.
At the Palais des Arts there is an exhibition of Mediterranean Ports. These paintings are in chronological order dating from Marseilles´ first beginnings up to now. It is interesting to see the changes of styles over the years and the theme is very topical for us. We recognize many of the exhibits.

What a lovely sight outside the exhibition

The small train tour is the best way for us to visit the Old Town We could never have walked as far or seen so much on foot. We pass through Augustines square, where Boneparte lived after his exile from Corsica. The view of the entrance to the old port, including a glimpse of Impulsive, is panoramic.

The old town

View across marina up to Notre Dame

This old part of Marseille was the fisherman´s district. We get off up here to have a wander through the old and narrow streets. There is a strong artist´s colony up here, with painters, sculpturers and potters. After a light lunch in the grounds of the Vieille Charite hospital, we rejoin the train to return to the city centre.

Vieille Charite Hospital

The Musee d´Histoire is devoted to the city´s history.This includes the wreck of a ship dating from the 3rd. century B.C.

Again the small train is the best way for us to go up to Notre Dame de la Garde. It goes through the Corniche, past the Forts, the Pharo and the Abbey. Enroute there are several weddings enjoying having photos with the backdrop of the Frioul Islands.

Notre Dame de la Garde
_wonderful mosaics

Notre Dame is the only place we have been to in Marseille before (we stayed with people here many years ago who are no longer here). It is not disappointing to return to see this impressive view with its amazing overview of the city and the surrounding seas and islands.

View over the city

View over the islands

We return to Impulsive for a rest! Ross actually shops to provision the boat for two days because with a good weather report he wants to leave early in the morning.

Early evening we stroll up to Jardin du Pharo to enjoy the gardens and the views (on the eastern headland of the entrance to the old port). We are hoping to hear the Edgar Quintet but it isn´t the right time.

View over the Old Port

We have a wonderful dinner at the yacht club again. This has an extra bonus that we are close at hand if another boat comes in late to tie up next to Impulsive, because the wind has come up now.

Stepping from the restaurant onto Impulsive

Map of our routes in Marseille

23rd. August 2009
Ross is continually watching the weather patterns here. We are trying to find a good weather window to track around the coast one hundred and forty n.miles. to Port Vendres. The well known mistrals occur to here, and a weak one was forecast for Saturday night. The mistrals are cold north-westerly winds that blow through the Rhone valley and Southern France towards the Mediterranean. That´s why we went into Marseille when we did.
Beyond here the problem is the north-westerly Tramontane winds which funnel down to the Mediterranean, through the Toulouse Gap between the Pyrenees and the Massif central. The danger is they can blow up very quickly, causing very short seas and can blow at very high force. Another issue is there are not many places along this coast to come in for protection.
We wake early today, and with the weather forecast still looking suitable, we leave at 7.30am . Soon the wind comes around to the n. east and we can sail with both sails up, off the beam. This is a lovely start to the day. Looking back Marseilles is enshrouded in cloud.
The small, cheery, yellow- flowering hibiscus we bought in San Remo is flourishing. it has eight buds opening up today.
The wind becomes very variable , from 8-20 knots, and later keeps changing direction as well. This is keeping the skipper on his toes!
About lunch time we pass by the flat Camarque area, the salt marshes of the Rhone delta, which is famous for its horses. From here we pass into the Languedoc - Roussillon area.

Favourite recipe this leg:
Carpaccio de saumon with lemon jest

Place slices of smoked salmon on lettuce leaves and drizzle with a light vinegarette and lemon jest
Arrange on the plate with artichoke hearts
slices of avacado
thin slices of camembert cheese
slices of cucumber
cherry tomatoes - halved
Serve with slices of pain de campagne


Provence and Languedoc-Roussillon

We anchor off at La Ciotat
The forecast is benign
The action,as usual,is by the old port
But Impulsive´s the best place to dine

At Port Miou we secure the bow to a buoy
And the stern to a 50 foot wall
We walk to calanques Port Pin and d´en Vau
Where the cliffs are jagged and tall

Cassis is only a short walk away
Will we find the place where we ate
Coquilles St Jaques 30 years ago?
We don´t.P´haps we left it too late

Port de Pomegues in the iles Frioul
Is sheltered and just a short sail
Dumas´fictional Count would have seen this bay
From his cell in the Ile d´If gaol

We find that Marseille´s full of bustle and life
There´s the port,there are markets galore
There´s the old part,Panier and still Notre Dame
Keeps close watch the whole length of the shore

There´s the Corniche and of course there´s the bouillabaise
Ours was served with 6 different fish
At chez Fon Fon perched up in the vallon des Auffes
It´s not cheap,but a memorable dish

Now we´re heading across the Golfe du Lyon
It´s notoriously windy here
The pilot talks "mistral" and "tramontane"
It succeeds in engendering fear

But the passage to Palavas les Flots
Is calm and we cook up a treat
Of local dorado and Herault rose
The bulk price here´s hard to beat

St Louis´the patron Saint of Sete
We arrive on his festival day
There´s jousting from boats on the town canal
And several more days of play

But we want to complete the Golfe du Lyon
So we set sail early today
If the weather holds as it´s forecast to
We´ll drop anchor at Collioure bay

We do,and enjoy the old town by the port
And the paintings there on display
Matisse and Derain used to come here to paint
And their work´s dotted round the bay

Port Vendres´a wonderfully sheltered port
Just as well for we´re taking a car
To Carcassonne and the Pyrenees
Raft the Aude,hike the tracks of haute Cathare

Now some wind arrives with Jenny and John
The best we´ve had all year
They introduce us to partying too
And a breakfast of oysters and beer.

August 09

Pisa to Genoa-verse

Pisa to Genoa-verse

Marina di Pisa´s a bit of a wreck
The Arno is dirty and brown
But the day livens up when we jump on the bus
And explore the old Pisa town

The leaning tower leans precariously
A carnival is staged
And Galileo,the town´s brilliant son
Thumbs his nose at the church he enraged

If you´re thinking of buying a super acht
Viareggio´s where you should look
But don´t expect less than 100 feet
And bring a substantial cheque book

When we sailed into Portovenere
We were met by Russell and Lee
Tall houses look over the old town port
To watch sailors returning from sea

Take a ferry to Riamaggiore
Then walk the 5 hours back
It´s a steep climb out of the village
Then a challenging rocky track

Then try sailing into Vernazza
And mooring just off the town square
In the heart of the Cinque Terre
This is travel with adequate flair

In the old church square in Rapallo
The bell ringer chimes his notes
But for real people and its market
Santa Marguerita got our votes

In Portofino we moored quite appropriately
Right beside a gigantic cruiser
The ormeggiatore came and moved us on
He had attitude-that of a loser

The buildings in Portofino town
All resemble a Hollywood set
A beer costs a mere 7 euros here
The meal cost?You´d rather forget

Genoa presents an attractive mixture
Of elegance,age and vigour
Columbus´s 15th century house
Wouldn´t work for anyone bigger

On both sides of via Garibaldi
The sumptuous palaces stand
The narrowly winding alley ways
Are lively though not so grand

A highlight was wending our way out of town
In Porto Antico´s hire car
To the old Bruxaboschi trattoria
For our best meal out so far.

July ´09

GENOA and WALES

4th. July 2009 (cont)
Genoa

We tie up in Porto Antico, in the heart of the old town. this is a large city and seems such a contrast to the much smaller towns we have just been visiting.
We are interested in the architecture of the old , elegant buildings, many with frescoes and the history here. Most of the places we have visited recently have been under Genoese rule earlier in their history.

We explore the fascinating narrow alleyways with the very tall buildings either side of them, making some of them dark, but cool. The city centre is large and grand with the famous street, Garibaldi, branching off it. Here we pass several mansions and visit Palazzo Rossi, which is now an art gallery and is holding a free musical soiree'.

Via Garibaldi

We see two weddings with the brides wearing very elegant gowns.
Tonight we enjoy a delicious dinner sitting outdoors at the recommended restaurant Garibaldi.

5th. July 2009
Ross gets up early this morning to walk around the city to become better acquainted with it.
We hire a marina courtesy car. It is tiny and black, like a Noddy car. It proves very handy for parking. Ross drives and Russell navigates to venture up to the small village of San Desiderio for lunch at Bruxaboschi restaurant.
Getting there is a real challenge. Streets end abrubtly to become one way, and some streets aren´t named. We have many stops so Russell can ask for more directions, even though we have a print -off map from the computer.One very helpful man we ask invites us to follow him on his motorbike through a particularly difficult part.

Russell and Ross do a wonderful job and we arrive before the appointed time, so have a wander through this tiny and delightful village up in the hills above the city. The setting and cuisine for lunch are sensational. It is al- fresco under two very old horse chestnut trees trained over a strong trellis structure like vines. Many of the dishes are local and several of the specialties have unusual varieties of mushrooms.

Bruxaboshi Restaurant

This has been a long established family run restaurant for 148 years.We meet Granny who is 94 and cooked here until two years ago when she broke her hip. Our charming waitress is married to one of her grandsons. Sadly they are looking to move to Canada as they say there is no future in Italy now for their two daughters aged 8 and 11. They generously give us one of their recipe books for each couple. They claim they have never had Australians there before.
Coming back into Genoa we are trying to find Christopher Columbus´house where he may have been born, and definitely lived. This proves to be very ambitious but our intrepid driver an navigator get us there. Ironically it is very close to where we walked yesterday! Then we see some of viam20th. September, the main street with its grand buildings, archways, and its paths, some made with marble and some with mosaics.
Ross is really tested getting from here back to the port. We re so close, but so far with many one way streets and blocked off roads for pedestrians. Often he has to back in the narrowest of alleyways, with Russell out of the car guiding him. He is glad to have the car parked safely outside the marina office.
Early evening we take the boat from this part of the harbour to Marina Genova Aeroporto, about 4 n.miles north to tie her up there for 2 weeks..
We have had a wonderful time and so much fun with Russell and Lee. They certainly brought the best possible weather with them, and Impulsive didn´t miss a beat

6th. July 2009 .10th. July
Wales.
This morning we leave with Russell and Lee for Wales to see the first test match in Cardiff. This certainly will be different from sailing.
We have an hilarious time (in hindsight!) at the airport booking into Ryan Air. We all assume our luggage limit is 20kgs. when in fact it is only 15kgs. Ross is the only one just over, so Lee,Russell and I have to all try and fit some into our hand luggage., or we will be charged heavily for excess weight. Repacking at the airport isn´t the best fun, but we all manage to get by with no extra charge.
It is exciting flying over the English channel and then across to Stansted airport, seeing all the fields looking green and manicured.
We are driven for 3 hours from Stansted to Wales to Russell and Lees´friend´s home. Maggie and Alen are overwhelmingly hospitable. Chris and Bruce are arriving tomorrow and we are all staying at this magnificent property. We have a fabulous few days here and meet lots of people who were very welcoming.
Tuesday is a day for relaxing and enjoying the available facilities here, including the cricket machine and par 3 golf course. Tonight Maggie and Allen host a wonderful party with a marvelous entertainer, an accomplished pianist and singer. We particularly enjoyed the dancing. (There was scheduled a dinner tonight where Shane Warne was expected to speak. Unfortunately he didn´t honour this commitment but let the organizers down and accepted something else. This was thought of very poorly by many people.)
Wednesday is the first day of the test . There is quite an excitement when all the men head off for the first day of play.
We girls set off with Maggie and her friend, Connie for a day of exploring the south of Wales. Connie grew up in these areas and has a wealth of knowledge. It is lovely to see her relive her childhood as she takes us through all these places. Gary, our driver, also grew up in this area so adds "life" to some of the stories too.
We set off through the south of Wales, going west, through the old mining areas. We pass through the industrial Rhonda Valley, to the Neath area which is less industrial. We pass by many old stone, arched bridges on our way to Swansea, which was very industrialized but a lot of it has been reclaimed. There are scars and signs of the old mines along the way but Connie explains that the reclaimed areas have now mostly greened over.
The last national mine closed down in the 1980´s, with Margaret Thatcher and the power of the various strikes. The last private mine closed down last year.
Swansea was obliterared in the war, but is mostly rebuilt now.There is a lovely view over Mumbles bay from here, even though the tide is out.It is very tidal here and we are lucky to see the tide in here on the way home. We pass the well known St. Helen´s cricket ground, and many lovely parks.

We spend sometime in the Gower area, a peninsular which is a National Park. An icon of the Gower is the "Three Cliffs" on the Bristol Channel.

The three cliffs

There are many delightful, small villages. We enjoy driving along the narrow, winding lanes with their trimmed hedges, and the wild buddlhea and lilac growing everywhere. The countryside through this area is so picturesque.

View from the lane back along the coast

We have lunch at Worm Head in a small cafe overlooking a magnificent long stretch of surf beach, with some horses and riders cantering and galloping along.

The cliff top walk

Our next stops are Oxwich, a walk from Caswell Bay along the scenic cliff tops to Landlan Bay, and finally to Cowbridge for dinner at the Bear Hotel. This last town is lovely with lanes lined with small cafes and gorgeous flower pots everywhere.
Today we all go to the cricket and thoroughly enjoy the perfect weather, the hospitality and a great day´s cricket.
Ross has had a wonderful 2 days of cricket with the usual ups and downs including a classy century from Ponting.

Ist. ball of the 2nd. day of play

Australian supporters!

We have dinner tonight at the downtown Bay. This water was closed off 10 years ago and the waterside has been renovated with cafes and bars. It is now a very popular place in Cardiff.
We have a leisurely morning enjoying this lovely home before heading off in the train for London.

LONDON

11th. July, 2009
Having lived in London years ago we both enjoy revisiting this vibrant city. This afternoon we wander through St. James Park, past Buckingham Palace , through Green Park and via Hyde park, through some of Mayfair to Shepherd´s market. Being Friday evening this area is buzzing with people spilling out of the attractive pubs. We follow this with dinner near Picadily at Langans.

Buckingham Palace

12th. July, 2009

Setting off this morning we see part of the changing of the guard as they march down from Buckingham Palace. The young men look so impressive in their red jackets and black busbies.

Changing guard

We have always been fascinated by John Harrison´s development of the chronometer so we have an excursion down the River Thames to Greenwich, past many famous landmarks eg. The Tower Bridge and Lord Nelson´s house where he lived with Lady Hamilton.

The Tower Bridge

Greenwich is a very attractive town. We find lunch in the market and enjoy a picnic on the nearby lawns, before wandering up to the observatory. It is marvelous to see the chronometer presented in its different intricate stages of engineering. It solved the long standing and extremely costly problem of not being able to determine longitude. It is interesting too to see the "Time Ball" and the Greenwich line of the prime-meridian.

The "Time Ball" and Greenwich line of the prime-meridian

Tonight we go to the theatre to see the musical "the Jersey Boys" (the Four Seasons), and it is fantastic. Apparently it is coming to Melbourne soon.
It is fun to have a late supper in this theatre area.

13th. July, 2009

Walking up New Bond Street past the top label shops and galleries, and then via Oxford St; to Marylebone Lane is full of contrasts. As we pass into Marylebone High Street we come across many small cafes and pubs all just starting to open.

Marylebone High St.


Canal leading up to Little Venice

Strolling through Regent´s Park and along the nearby canal to Little Venice is very pleasant. Lunch at a small restaurant over the canal is perfect.

Little Venice

This afternoon we head off to the National Library to the Henry V111 exhibition. It claims " to tell the story of his reign from his own perspective". It certainly is well presented.
We decide to venture back to Shepherd´s market for dinner tonight for a Lebonese meal of delicious mezza.

14th. July 2009
Nice

Today is one of excitement as we are off to meet up with Scott, Jeanette, Augusta and Lily.