PHUKET TO SRI LANKA - POEM

PHUKET TO SRI LANKA

We are back at Phuket at the Chedi resort
With a big list of jobs to attack
With Murphy at work the list sometimes grows
Two steps forward and three steps back

But at last the yachts are prepared and preened
Clean bottomed for graceful sea motion
The batteries and pumps and belts are all fixed
So it´s now for the Indian Ocean

There´s a last Thai meal at the Sailor´s Rest
Then we start first thing next day
The ocean stretches away to the west
Sri Lanka´s a long way away

There´s some breeze early on and we have a good sail
With our headsail and spinnakers out
But then the wind drops and the forecasters say
That there´s not much more wind about

A large pod of dolphins approaches to play
Some swim and cavort in our swell
Then they turn and they leap and they twist in the air
In a sparkling salute farewell

Some days it is airless,oppressively hot
So the cool of the night is a treat
For the person who stands on the night watch
And the fireworks are hard to beat

You can see the rain storms on the radar
Yellow blobs that converge on our track
And the sky is lit up with the lightning
Which flashes and forks through the black

Or you´re alone with a few million stars
By the sea which reflects their light
When the pale yellow moon ascends up the arc
Of her leisurely glide through the night

She catches the folds of the wake of the yachts
She endows them with jewels of gold
Then the sun breaks through as a white silver ball
And our passage is now four days old

A lone bird swoops low on the water
Though we´re hundreds of miles still from land
Another warm day is building up
This heat wasn´t something we´d planned

By the time the sun reaches the end of the day
It has turned from white silver to red
When it plunges to sea as a fireball
It calls the non watchers to bed

But the ocean then quenches the fireball
(It´s several kilometers deep
Till it shows up again as the silver white ball
To arouse the late watchers from sleep
By day this sea is an inky blue
The blue of an old Parker pen
By night it is black but the foam is pure white
As our bows press it down again

Free Spirit survives some engine room smoke
We perform running sail repairs
One good thing out here is there´s plenty of space
And who could care what one wears

The Admiral is in her element here
She loves the freedom and space
We eat good food and sleep quite well
And it shows in her beautiful face

On our last night out the wind came up
And the headsail filled with glee
As Impulsive leaned over and sliced through the waves
Where else would you rather be(apart from in bed)

We threaded our way through the fishing fleet´s
Confusing array of lights
It was so hard to tell their course and speed
We had a couple of frights

After six nights at sea we made it to Galle
And found a place to anchor
We drank a toast with some scotch and wine
And thought of our tour of Sri Lanka(and of a big sleep)

March 2008

RETURN TO PHUKET

RETURN TO PHUKET

MONDAY, 27th. FEBRUARY 2008

We arrived at 7.30pm at Yacht Haven Marina. The yacht has been well cared for while we spent some months at home.

Early on our first day we take “Impulsive” and “Free Spirit” to Royal Phuket Marina to be put up on the hard stand. This is a very beneficial trip as other boat issues to be dealt with become apparent.

We spend 5 nights at the Chedi resort (where we stayed previously) because we are unable to be on the yacht. This is a luxury but, unfortunately, there isn’t the relaxation we had hoped for, as so much time was needed to be on the boat to meet with contractors to check things, along with general chasing around for equipment etc. Sometimes we feel we are going one step forward and then three backwards.

The main issues dealt with are cutting and polishing the hull, cleaning and anti-fouling the keel, a major service to the auto-prop, and there are frig, air-con and hot water problems. The Australian dollar goes a long way here so we have had new canvas work done and sails repaired. The workmanship here is outstanding. Also, the boat has been detailed, e.g. bright work and shackles etc. checked.

We certainly have time to thoroughly enjoy the Thai cuisine in the evenings. (This also helps us with ideas for provisioning).

Highlights are:

1. Local style feet in the sand restaurant at Nai Thong Beach (north coast of Phuket).

2. Leamhim Seafood Restaurant. This is by the water and a local favourite. We come here with the marine manager, Derrick, and his wife Lek. What an amazing meal, and so cheap! Local knowledge is so valuable and it is wonderful to learn more of the culture here, e.g. Lek, Thai-Chinese, is the youngest of 9 children. Her father runs a rubber plantation and has put all 9 children through tertiary education. Land prices are booming here.

3. The Sea Hag at Patong Beach. Probably as good a meal we have had anywhere in Thailand with very distinct flavours, particularly with their use of tamarind. We now have a bottle of it on board.

4. Sailor’s Hut at Ao-Chalong. We take 4 meals away with us from here for our Indian Ocean crossing. What a treat!

Robbie and I spend some time sourcing different places to provision from. Another Australian gives us ideas too. They have cruised in this area for some years and are very knowledgeable.

The provisioning this time is very important, as there isn’t much available as we travel to Sri Lanka, the Maldives, Aden and then up through the Red Sea.

We enjoy the Thai people very much - their warmth, friendliness and willingness to be helpful. Some of the women are strong, capable people, such as Pla who organised the bimini and other canvas covers, and the women who controlled a staff of 30 or so cleaners on the boats. Others seem deferential and submissive to the point of a fault. The same comment applies to the Thai men we meet.

THAI RECIPE - SCALLOPS WITH KAFFIR LEAVES, LIME JUICE & CORIANDER

THAI RECIPE - SCALLOPS WITH KAFFIR LEAVES & LIME JUICE

12 scallops in their shells ( these were cryovaced and frozen)
2 kaffir leaves (thinly shredded)
juice of 2 limes
2 thin slices of ginger finely grated
finely shredded coriander
dill to garnish
pepper to taste

Remove scallops from their shells and marinate in lime juice and pepper.

Simmer lightly kaffir leaves in lime juice ,1/4 cup of water, ginger
and coriander. Place 6 shells around each plate.

Cook scallops lightly (cooked when they swell up).
Replace in their shells and spoon over juices from cooking
Garnish with dill.

Serve with rice in centre of plate with lightly cooked bok choy placed
over the top.

Serve with garden salad (we enjoy lettuce, spinach leaves, cherry
toms, avacado, sprouts and goats or fetta cheese-garnished with
parsley).

LEAVING PHUKET FOR SRI LANKA

LEAVING PHUKET FOR SRI LANKA

WEDNESDAY, 29th. FEBRUARY 2008

It is very exciting to be setting out on the next leg of our trip after a 4 month break. We are thrilled to have “Impulsive” ship-shape, especially with the long voyages ahead.

After being on the boat again many times, and sleeping on her the previous few nights, we feel comfortable about heading off on our 1,100 nautical mile trip (minimum 6½ days) due west. It is a lovely surprise to have winds of 8-10 knots from the east, and varying, as the forecast is for no wind at all. We have sails up, especially as fuel is a huge issue so we want to motor conservatively, and any help from the sails is beneficial.

It is a beautiful hot, sunny day and the waters are blue and sparkling. This afternoon we are given a wonderful display by about 150 spinning dolphins. They all swim towards the yacht, some of them swimming at the bow and some making triple twists at the stern.

This evening we tracked some electrical storms on the radar, which produced a very heavy shower of rain accompanied by sheet and fork lightening that lit up the whole sky.

This morning there is just enough wind to be under sail with the flying reaching spinnaker and foresail. We have an excellent sail like this at good speed, but as the wind drops off we slow right down. Normally we would motor in these conditions but we want to make the most of the wind. Robbie and Phil are soon 8 nautical miles ahead but we catch up during the night while motoring to sail in tandem again. It is very comforting to be sailing like this through these areas.

Our favourite way of sailing

The nights have been wonderful - the skies filled with stars and the waning Moon bathing the seas and the boat with its light.

Our days are filled with odd jobs to keep the yacht ship-shape, e.g. sail repairs (see photo) and cleaning waste water pipes. Apart from running the boat, e.g. navigation, setting sails and regular watch, we enjoy some time to relax reading, listening to music and sometimes drawing. Ross and I try to do our exercises daily, even though we feel we get regular isometric exercise constantly on the boat, e.g. keeping our balance. It goes without saying that our meals are always a highlight, even though we never drink alcohol when overnight sailing. We will certainly feel in good health after all these long voyages ahead!

We spend time on the computer to send emails and check the weather via HF radio. It is also a good opportunity to get our photos up-to-date.

During a long voyage such as this we try to rest during the day so we can manage night watch. One of us is always on watch throughout the night. Fortunately, our body clocks work differently and Ross prefers to sleep first, whereas I am happy to stay up later.

The wind has dropped out completely now and, although we would prefer to sail, it is very relaxing cruising over smooth seas. Just occasionally it has been oppressively hot for short periods but, generally, we catch a cool breeze. The evenings and nights are magical with glass-like calm waters, magnificent sunsets (even dolphins at sunset yesterday, some phosphorescence in the wash of the boat, and reflections from the Moon. There are reflections from the stars on the water tonight as it is such a magnificent night. There is something very special about doing night watch, experiencing the peace and tranquillity of it all, and realizing the enormity of nature.

This meditative feeling is only broken when other ships come into view or show up on the radar. We have not had too many crossing the Indian Ocean.

Our only boat issues during this passage are the batons "popping" out of their new insets in the mainsail because the stitching has pulled away and the freshwater pump is not operating. We have taped the baton sockets and hope to have them stitched in Sri Lanka.

Ross has a "swim" in the Indian Ocean to see if there is plastic caught in the seawater inlet valve. There is no problem with this, but he removes a fishing line and medium size float caught on the transducer for the forward looking depth sounder on the keel. The pump will need replacing which may not be easy in this part of the world.

On our final night we encounter a heavy rainstorm which is quite refreshing. Also, the wind comes up to 12-13 knots just west of north so we can reduce our motoring speed and use the headsail to average 7-8 knots.

Later during the same night watch I have a tricky manoeuvre with an oncoming vessel. It is more difficult to change direction with the sail up, but whichever way I change course the other boat seems to stay on our rhumb line, i.e. a collision course.

Eventually, we sort it out and pass each other quite close by. It is the first of many smaller fishing vessels. Ross experiences about 30 of these, all with bright lights, and having difficulty working out which way they are travelling. As with the one I experience, they change direction frequently and readily.

We have also spent a great deal of time sorting out our travel arrangements on land. Having realized we are not able to get to Aden on time (from the Maldives) we have decided to go to Salalah (Oman). There were thoughts of going to Mukallah instead, but this option doesn’t seem safe (I kept remembering reading "Not Without My Daughter" when we were talking about a 200 mile drive from Mukallah to Aden). Making arrangements from here is also very difficult. We are trying to get to Dubai to meet Scott and Augusta on their way home from spending Easter in Australia. It does seem sad that in these areas we really have to consider where it is safe to travel. Going to Salalah proves to be a much better option as we would have serious fuel issues if we had to motor non-stop to Aden from the Maldives.

Tonight we anchor just outside Port de Galle. We are not permitted to go inside at night time. We have an 8.30 a.m. appointment with the port authorities tomorrow, and once they have come aboard to inspect the boat and have given their permission to go ashore, we look forward to exploring Sri Lanka.

Apparently, mines are let off during the night in the harbour here to try to deter Tamil Tiger divers who might be trying to enter the harbour to explode bombs. All very welcoming, but we have it on good authority that what we are doing and where we plan to travel is all safe.

We are planning to resume our sailing May 2009, to continue our trip westwards across the Mediterranean.

THAI CRUISING - POEM

THAI CRUISING

If ever you have a month to spare
And you’re not sure how to spend it
Come to Phang Nga Bay to the east of Pkuket
And you’ll find you won’t want to end it.

If you’re here in October you’ll get some rain
(This is real rain, measured in feet)
But at least it helps to keep you cool
And coolness here is a treat.

You’ll explore the hongs at Koh Phanak
Go to Koh Hong and Koh Deng Yai
You will try the resort at Koh Yao Noi
(You must practise these names each day).

You’ll get fresh squid and prawns from longboats
They go well with the local beer
If you add the Thai herbs and spices
You might out-do Maggie Beer.

You will ride out a blow at Koh Yao Yoi
And then when the weather comes good
You’ll enjoy the spectacular Phi Phi Don
You’d stay there for days if you could.

You’ll see Phi Phi Le in a longboat
Where the water is aquamarine
You might even indulge in a massage
(incognito, you’ll never be seen).

You’ll wear out the flippers and goggles
You’ll hand feed the fish at Kai Nok
You’ll tumble ashore in the tender
And taste the delights from the wok.

You’ll swim with a turtle at Koh Racha Yai
And lie with the fishing fleet
They’ll cook you a meal at the Raya Resort
You’d be battling, I think, to beat.

You’ll anchor well off at Ao Chalong
And discreetly motor ashore
The next bit’s been censored I’m sorry to say
Ask our guests, if you’re game, for more.

You’ll buy fish from the local trawling boat
With its thirty smiling crew
If you’ve bought the Thai herbs at the market
You can show your French guests what to do.

At Phi Phi you’ll eat with your feet in the sand
It’s the only way to dine
Then you’ll trip the light on the dance floor
(Pretty Woman and Sweet Caroline).

You’ll see the spectacular Krabi coast
With its orange cliffs standing sheer
And its oysters and monkeys and corn on the cob
(There are tourists even this time of year).

You’ll take some time out at marinas
At Yacht Haven and Boat Lagoon
When you plan your comings and goings there
Be sure to consult the moon.

You will find it, I’d say, a perfect place
For a second honeymoon
So why put it off any longer
Just do it, and do it soon.

IMPULSIVE
OCTOBER 2007

PENANG

WEDNESDAY, 5 SEPTEMBER 2007

The marina is in Georgetown, the capital. This is a bustling town with car, bike and rickshaw traffic. The marina is situated by the ferry terminal. These ferries are large in shape and painted in different bright colours. We had to dodge many of these as we arrived.

Mid-morning Ross and Phil find a driver who is very knowledgeable and speaks excellent English. Everything is so cheap here, especially the delicious cuisine. The cuisine is, no doubt, the result of the three main cultures - Chinese, Malay and Indian - and the myriad of subcultures, and this diversity also makes the history of the place so interesting. Places visited:

• Khoo Kongsi – a magnificent old temple; an old Chinese clan house;

• Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion – 1880’s mansion, of a rags-to-riches Mandarin. A Chinese courtyard house;

• Gurney Drive Hawker Centre – a popular hawker centre (we had dinner here sitting outdoors);

• Chinese festival – a ceremony to get rid of ghosts by setting fire to paper replicas of part of their life.

Making artifacts for burials

THURSDAY, 6 SEPTEMBER 2007

Early morning run/walk by the coast. Places visited:

• Fort Cornwallis (well presented with an excellent history coverage). It was the first military and administrative base of the East India Company;

• State Museum – (very well presented).

We learned a great deal from all these visits.

We also experienced Indian cuisine and Nyonya cuisine (an exotic blend of Chinese and Malay savoury cuisines using a fine mixture of spices, herbs and onions, garlic and chillies).

Our special dinner to celebrate our anniversary is at a seafood restaurant on the coast. They have live seafood to choose from and it is cooked delectably.

Raja, our driver, explains that tourism and the economy are down, probably due to terrorism. If this restaurant is an indication, it is billed as the best in the area and we enjoy it very much, but it is “tired”.

FRIDAY, 7 SEPTEMBER 2007

Heading off before dawn again we motor (with the foresail up for some time) west of north to Pulau Payar Island, a marine park 19 nautical miles south of Langkawi. The snorkelling here in sheltered, clear water is wonderful with the warm sun on our backs. There are so many different fish of all shapes, sizes and colours. They are obviously fed as we are treated to them surrounding us as we swim over the coral. The mauve, soft corals are beautiful here.

Sailing to Langkawi

We leave mid-afternoon to track up through the islands and to find a lovely place to drop anchor. We are planning to go to the south-west side of Pulau Dayang to walk into the Princess Lake, but the wind and rain come up against us so we change track and head alongside the beautiful islands up to Langkawi to moor at the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club near the main ferry and customs jetty. This is a very attractive marina with a small but adequate infinity pool and a magnificent view. It is still raining and we are all tired so we have a lovely relaxed dinner on Free Spirit – much better than wandering around in the rain!

Langkawi marina

SATURDAY, 8 SEPTEMBER 2007

Saturday is spent sorting out yachting issues. This involves hiring a car and driving around to find different parts, mechanics, hardware, chandlery etc. It is a marvellous way to really see a place and meet the locals. We need some aluminium welding done on our dinghy motor. It is a beautiful drive out to Wave Master, a huge boat yard and marine centre. Unfortunately, the security man tells us it is closed until Monday morning.

Our second option is the Thai Village. This is not far from the very smart and professional marine centre. It is right on the coast in a lovely position but is very rundown and dilapidated. People are living in tents here and we wonder if they are “boat people”. We are told where to find the welder but discover he is away.

Guess who came to our rescue – Phil! He pop welded a bracket onto a stainless plate so as to make a lever arm to substitute for the broken throttle arm. It’s a better job than anyone else could have done.

Somewhere during the day we find a light Indian lunch and have dinner at the yacht club, which is such a beautiful setting, and we all feel happier not going out in the car again.

SUNDAY, 9 SEPTEMBER 2007

Sunday is a wonderful day. We drive up the west coast to Telaga Harbour to find “The Loaf”, a delightful bakery and bistro. This is considered of world class standard and, after eating delicious pastries overlooking the harbour, we all agree.

Bob Ton restaurant and resort

Then we drive south again looking for Bon Ton. We happen upon an Australian run delicatessen and fruit and vegetable outlet store which is a family concern. The lettuce are picked one day in Australia and arrive by air the next, and are then supplied to most of the hotels and some restaurants here. We find some useful items, especially as the fruit and vegetables available don’t seem of good quality elsewhere.

Bon Ton is a very stylish resort and restaurant with 19th century style Malay houses to stay in surrounded by a beautiful setting. It is lovely just to wander around here and take it all in.

Later we arrive at “The Lighthouse” restaurant in time to watch the sunset. Here we literally sit with our feet in the sand and not far from the gentle waves breaking on the shore. The weather is perfect and the cuisine outstanding. Definitely a highlight. We would have enjoyed doing one of the cooking classes offered here.

MONDAY, 10 SEPTEMBER 2007

We have to venture out to the fuel barge, which is never an easy exercise. We end up knocking the hull (we didn’t judge where to put the fenders correctly) and getting diesel all over the clean deck. So instead of heading off we return to the marina to clean up the boat again. We also have to clear customs here.

Eventually, we motor up the east coast of Langkawi. It is very picturesque coming up between the islands by the coast.

Unfortunately, we are delayed again by the dreaded problem of getting fishing net caught around the propeller. Ross has sighted a fishing boat which just crosses our bow laying the nets. This takes some time and many dives with a large knife to clear.

We anchor at the north-east of Langkawi at the “Hole in the Wall”. We enter this through a very narrow passage between very high rock formations. It is a beautiful and calm anchorage. There are several wedge-tailed eagles flying above and, apparently, a group of small monkeys on shore catching mud crabs.

There is also a small floating restaurant and fish farm here billed as serving fried rice which we decide to try. What a sensational meal with the rice and delicious, fresh prawns.

And another perfect, balmy night.

Phil and Robbie have met up with another cruiser, Jim and his son, who they met at Port Douglas. Jim is on his second circumnavigation and his wife joins him at different stages. They are from the USA.

We have only met a few other cruisers so far. The feeling is that the Indonesian rally of about 120 boats is so popular people tend to join that to do the first long leg in company.

TUESDAY, 11 SEPTEMBER 2007

We set off at 6.00 am in pitch darkness this morning. We are very glad to have a good spotlight as there are a few moored boats to weave our way through. It is a 70 nautical mile distance to travel and the north-west winds could come up in the late afternoon and be “on-the-nose”, which is very uncomfortable, so we want to make good way as early as possible to reach Koh Rok Nok.

The wind does come up in the west later so we can motor-sail with the headsail up, which allows us to average 6.5 to 7 knots per hour. There are little flagged buoys everywhere, and we think some may have nets attached, but we manage to steer clear of all of them. After fouling the fishing net yesterday we have to keep a close watch.

This is the most idyllic anchorage with beautiful beaches and a wonderful place to snorkel in crystal clear waters. It reminds us how amazing nature is when we see the tremendous variety of beautiful fish.

Anchored between these two small islands about 25 nautical miles from the coast gives us a lovely feeling of space. During the night about 30 fishing trawlers come in to drop anchor further out, and with all their lights on in the dark they looked quite a sight. A very small fishing boat adorned with brightly coloured lights anchored close off our bow in the early hours of the morning. It took Ross a while to work out what was happening.

WEDNESDAY, 12 SEPTEMBER 2007

After a walk up the tsunami escape route to higher ground and fabulous views and another lovely snorkel we head off to Phi Phi Don Island enjoying a sail of up to 8½ knots boat speed with 13 knots of wind.

We are disappointed when we go ashore. This is billed as the third most beautiful island in the world. It certainly is very lovely coming into anchor, but on shore the tide is right out with the wind blowing on shore at the main beach, and the town seems tawdry and obviously affected by the tsunami.

After enquiring and then searching we find a wonderfully cooked local dinner in a small “shed” café. Halfway through this meal we notice people running by in droves all in the same direction heading for higher ground. We soon learn there has been an earthquake in Sumatra and a warning of a possible tsunami. Understandably, after the last tsunami people here are very fragile about these warnings. We see some English television news, and speak with an English dive operator, who assures us it is alright as far as they are concerned, as it is just over 2 hours since the earthquake occurred and it would have reached here by now (the previous one was underwater and this one was on land, therefore, not as strong).

We also receive texts from the Joneses and the Williamses warning of this – they have just arrived in Phuket and have to change their hotel to one further from the coast.

Ross is happy with our anchorage as we have a lot of anchor chain out – enough to rise over the top of a huge wave. The greater problem would be if some of the large number of boats of all shapes and sizes in the port were to break free.

We leave the following morning to make our way south-west to Koh Racha Yai Island. Unfortunately, the winds are against us so we change track and go north-west towards Phuket to Ao Chalong Harbour. The weather is closing in and it is raining heavily so we are thrilled with Phil’s news that there are berths for us both at Boat Lagoon Marina. The entrance to this is very shallow and we can only come in on a full tide. We follow the dredged channel, but with care closer to the mariner where there isn’t much room. This is a very up-market marina, catering especially for large, garaged streamlined motor boats.

We take a hire car back to Ao Chalong to go through customs and immigration. We are pleased to have the yachts in the marina as it is a large crowded harbour and we would have had to come ashore by dinghy, possibly in inclement weather.

Unfortunately, these offices are closed so Phil and Ross plan to return in the morning. We provision on the way back to the marina, stow the boat, and have a lovely dinner at the marina by one of the open hanger garages looking over some amazing boats.

Ross and I spend time preparing the boat ready for the Joneses and the Williamses arrival the following morning. We are very excited about this and just hope this weather with its constant, heavy downpours relents soon. Apparently, at this time of the year you can expect a storm for an hour or two each day, which is welcome to clear the air, but not this constantly poor weather.

FRIDAY, 14 SEPTEMBER 2007

Ross and Phil have to return to Ao Chalong to do all the immigration and customs forms. We have to leave the marina as close to midday as we can to catch the tide or we can’t leave until the following day.

It is wonderful to have the Joneses and the Williamses on board. We set off to Ko Khai Noh Island. (Today we just have short sails planned so they can all find their “sea legs”.) This is a beautiful small island with white sand and sensational snorkelling over the fringing reef. We all snorkel together, which is just a lovely experience.

Next we head to Ko Rang Yai Island which will provide a protected anchorage for the night. We are warned not to swim off the boat here because of the strong current. We have evidence of this when Margie’s hat blows over. Ross and I try to retrieve it in the dinghy but it disappears very quickly. It apparently posed a challenge to the four crew left on the boat trying to work out how to sail the yacht if our dinghy motor failed!

SATURDAY, 15 SEPTEMBER 2007

We go ashore the next morning because Robbie said she had bought some beautiful and inexpensive pearls when last here five years ago. So we girls went ashore with great expectations.

Unfortunately, the prices have sky rocketed, but it is fun looking. We end up staying for lunch in a sheltered spot out of the rain and then head north to anchor off Koh Phanak for the night. It is still raining.

SUNDAY, 16 SEPTEMBER 2007

The following morning we head off at 5.30 a.m. to visit a “Hong” at Koh Hong Island. It is a beautiful, calm and serene morning. We have to arrive at low tide in order to get into the cave and through to its enclosed pool. The rain comes in again but it is exciting to get inside and the steep densely vegetated walls of the Hong are beautiful in these conditions. Perhaps it is better to see it this way rather than in picture book sunshine.

The plan is to sail down to Koh Racha Yai. We enjoy good sailing conditions for a couple of hours but then a squall comes in producing heavy driving rain and winds up to 30 knots. So we change plan and head instead into Ao Chalong where we anchor safely amongst lots of moored boats. The plan is to go ashore and meet the Melletts at a favourite restaurant of theirs at Patong Beach (Baan Rin Pa). Getting ashore by dinghy is great fun. It is still raining and there is not much freeboard with six in the dinghy (which is leaking). So we go ashore in bare essentials with clothes wrapped in plastic bags, drag the dinghy up the beach, change in an improvised shelter, find a taxi (for six) and head off for what turns out to be a great meal overlooking the Patong Beach.

MONDAY, 17 SEPTEMBER 2007

It is still raining (wish it would stop) but we set off south for Koh Racha Yai and have good wind for sailing. The anchorage on the north-east side (amongst many trawlers) is sheltered, the weather clears, the snorkelling is good and there is a walk across the island. This is more like it! We find that the Raya Resort will cook dinner so the ten of us have a wonderful (and inexpensive) meal there. The island is so good we decide to spend an extra day here rather than at Phi Phi.

Jones and Williams crewing - Lee bailing

Koh Racha Yai

View from Raya resort

TUESDAY, 18 SEPTEMBER 2007

It is a good decision. The weather brightens even more, we snorkel again and see a turtle, scrub the bottom of the boat, have another good lunch on board, go ashore for another walk and a swim at the surf beach on the west side of the island and arrange to eat at the same little restaurant again. This is definitely an island to return to.

WEDNESDAY, 19 SEPTEMBER 2007

We set off reasonably early for Phi Phi.

Phi Phi Don
Neil, Russell and Ross

The wind has dropped out so we motor in calm conditions and with some assistance from the current see up to 10.5 knots speed over the ground. Russell and Lee are leaving us here so we will arrive in time for a swim and to arrange transport for them back to Phuket and, hopefully, a special farewell lunch after six most memorable and fun days.

SINGAPORE TO PHUKET - POEM

SINGAPORE TO PHUKET - Poem

The brunch at Raffles exceeded
The most demanding mariner’s wishes
The Bollinger came in “free flow”
It was hard to keep count of the dishes.

We cleared Singapore at the Sisters
And elbowed our way down the Road
Through hundreds of ships at anchor
All waiting their turn to unload.

When we sailed overnight past Malacca
The pirates must have been on vacation
There was only Impulsive and dozens of ships
Ranged beside us on convoy station.

Port Dickson offered a beautiful pool
And a chance to catch up on rest
We set off again with Free Spirit
To Port Klang, where who could have guessed.

That the Royal Selangor Yacht Club
Would emerge from the smells and the rain
With Carlsberg on tap and a dance floor
It was old British Empire again.

In the course of the voyage to Pangkor Laut
We met a Sumatran squall
Thirty knots from the north with driving rain
(one the forecasters didn’t call).

So we called time out at Pangkor Laut
Tried some spicy Malay creations
Had a swim and drove round in a hire car
(Fifty RM, no documentation).

We were tied at Penang by late afternoon
The ferry wash threatened our stay
We explored the hybrid of cultures
The Indian, Chinese, Malay.

The relics of British colonial days
The houses of Chinese clans
The Indian hawkers’ food stalls
Improvised anniversary plans.

Pulau Payar has coral and brilliant blue fish
That swim unfazed up to the mask
Now a beautiful sheltered anchorage
Is surely not too much to ask?

It was, for the wind came up from the south
And the sea soon resembled a wash tub
So we sailed up the east of the island
To the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club.

We did boat repairs, we took on some wine
We toured and the anchor came in
We ate on the beach at the lighthouse
(Girls choice and a definite win).

We have a short sail to the Hole in the Wall
Two hours would have been a safe bet
But there is an unscheduled stop on the way
When we foul a fisherman’s net.

We’ll eat fried rice at the jetty tonight
Then tomorrow at six o’clock
We’ll say goodbye to Malaysia
And head for Koh Rok Nok.

At Phuket Free Spirit meets Andrew and Kate
We take on the Williamses and Joneses
What price the additional crew list
After sailing Impulsive alone?

The Williamses and Joneses brought wine, cheer and rain
They tested the strength of our tender
We island hopped, snorkelled and ate good Thai food
Sent tsunamis straight back to their sender.

IMPULSIVE
AUG. / SEPT. 2007

PHI PHI DON to YACHT HAVEN MARINA

PHI PHI DON

WEDNESDAY, 19 SEPTEMBER 2007

The contrast this visit is amazing. It is a neap tide so we don’t see it with the tide right out and there is no wind.

The landscaping where we land in the dinghy has been tidied up and it seems like a lively, well kept place and also looks beautiful.

After farewelling the Joneses on the ferry to Phuket, we go in search of a Thai massage. This is a lovely experience; a combination of being very relaxed and great fun with the 6 of us lined up in a row.

Margie and Neil choose a “local” meal tonight so we return to the recommended tin shed we came to when last here – we are not disappointed. The green curry is a great favourite and costs less than $7 each, including the beer. Here the family cat goes into the large commercial fridge for a few hours to cool off! We can see it through the glass door.

THURSDAY, 20 SEPTEMBER 2007

This morning we head off in a long boat (the 4 Melletts’ crew and the 4 of us) to Phi Phi Le. This saves moving the yachts and it is more of a local experience. Our boatman is a lovely young man and it is fascinating to see the engine he works with. Luckily, it’s not as noisy as most of its kind.

This is an unspoiled island with wonderful swimming and snorkelling in exquisitely clear waters. The colours are light turquoise through to indigo. At one point we swim ashore and, clinging onto ropes, pull ourselves along the rocks and up through an opening which opens out to a path through tropical areas across to the other side of the island, which opens out to a magnificent beach (where “the Beach” was filmed). What a paradise!

Getting back to the boat wasn’t so much fun for some of us. Robbie and Kate were knocked by a wave getting back across the rocks, and I was knocked under for a while by the next one. We think a large boat must have gone by just then and set up these few large, strong waves.

We had a farewell lunch with Margie and Neil on Impulsive before seeing them off on the ferry to further their Asian travels. Farewelling Marg and Neil

We are going to miss our 4 crew – it has been such a special time having them. Also, having all these exploring minds on board we don’t leave much unvisited, whether it be the best places to take the yacht, local villages, restaurants and local cuisine, and for the girls – the shops!

I can’t believe that going back to Impulsive I misjudged getting out of the dinghy and fall in! It would have just been funny, except I had the camera. Perhaps my judgement is below par – Ross said he thinks I went into slight shock after the rock incident. Anyhow, we have a light omelette on the boat for dinner, and a long sleep, and I feel like a new person in the morning.

It is very relaxing to think all our long and major sailing is behind us until next February. We are planning just to cruise in Thailand for a few weeks.

FRIDAY, 21 SEPTEMBER 2007

We head off to the southern end of Ko Yao Yai, and venture by dinghy up the river to a Muslim fishing village. The houses are on stilts in this small tropical village and there aren’t many people about. It is very hot here so it is a quick visit. After another beautiful snorkel at Ko Kai Nok, with its great diversity of fish, we venture to Ko Nakha Yai to anchor overnight. It is flat calm here and another magnificent sunset, followed by a creative dinner on Free Spirit.

SATURDAY, 22 SEPTEMBER 2007

This morning we explore another Hong on the west side of Ko Phanak. This is a great adventure through a long, dark tunnel in the dinghy using a torch, through to a beautiful lagoon. It feels as if you are in a James Bond movie! These hongs were apparently first discovered in the 1990’s. We have to row back to the yacht due to motor troubles in the dinghy but this is probably a good move as several dolphins come and swim across our bow.

Anchored to the north east of this island we swim into a small beach. We have just brought fresh prawns here from a local couple in a long boat, which we cook for a delicious salad lunch. This beach is so idyllic we plan to return here and, hopefully, buy more prawns to barbecue on the beach.

Late afternoon we venture into Yacht Haven marina. On the way we notice a long boat with several men waving flags. At first we turn our boat away thinking we are disturbing their fishing nets but soon realize they have motor problems. They are very pleased to have a tow back to their village.

This evening we join the Melletts at Ban Ram Pa for a special banquet dinner to farewell Andrew and Kate. We always enjoy having the stimulation of the young, so its been great fun having their company this week.

From here we go to Chedi at Surin Beach on the north-west coast of Phuket for a couple of days of R&R off the boat. This is a wonderful place by the beach, where you have your own cottage with a marvellous view. We spend one day taking a Thai cooking course. We observe first, then cook it ourselves, then sit down to a delicious lunch. During the afternoon the chef and her off-sider (and translator), take us to the market to learn where to buy all the ingredients to enhance all the delicate flavours of Thai cooking. We are looking forward to trying all this on the boat!

With renewed vigour we return to Impulsive to tend to various issues. We are now the proud owners of a new dinghy and engine – the old one was actually leaking and the engine had been damaged so it really wasn’t safe any more. All through Asia it is a treat to have work done on the boat, e.g. the stainless steel work, as it is so cheap. ($17 per day which is incredible). It is very hot here so we are very pleased to have air-conditioning.

There are several great restaurants in the area (again very cheap). There are some by the beach where you can have your feet in the sand and another excellent seafood one on stilts.

It actually takes us four days to organize the boat to leave again. The time just disappears when doing this. It is interesting to note that Ross and Phil are asked to wear shirts when they run to show respect for Muslim Ramadam.

PHANG NGA BAY & PHI PHI DON - Hall´s on board

PHANG NGA BAY & PHI PHI DON

FRIDAY, 28 SEPTEMBER 2007

However, we leave at lunch time today and head out to the islands just cruising for a week in Phang Nga Bay, planning to take our time, read, draw and paint and try out the Thai cooking. (We have a great time at the local market buying Thai ingredients and herbs).

It is lovely on bright, sunny mornings waking up to the light dancing on the cabin ceiling as it is reflected off the water and up through the portholes. Sometimes I have been aware of it even before I open my eyes. Actually, one of the joys of cruising is waking up in a new place most days.

We are both enjoying this wonderful and easy lifestyle very much, e.g. living in bathers, swimming off the back of the boat and also showering off the back of the boat (this beats cleaning the head (bathroom) too!.

Buying fresh prawns and calamari at Karak Is.

The grandeur and majestic views of the high limestone mountains rising up out of the sea with their amazing shapes and with their wonderful colours and stalactites are comparable to the Kimberly coastline. There are many beautiful beaches to visit.

The hongs are interesting to see in different lights. They are beautiful with the sunlight shining on them but in misty, rainy weather they hold more intrigue and mystique.

James Bond Is.

Even though we have the new one we still are experiencing dinghy sagas. We realize we can’t become complacent – dinghies have an unfortunate tendency to run out of fuel (the fuel consumption is greater in this one and we just made it back to the yacht coming back from a village on Ko Yao Noi right on dark) and running aground (a tricky manoeuvre going in to a resort on the same island the previous evening up a very narrow channel in the dark. Ross has to go into the water up to his waist to push us off the rocky ledge. Another salt water wash for his good leather wallet! We have Helen and David Gronksy with us.

We have just met up with the Melletts again with their crew (Robbie’s sister, Elizabeth, and Rodney and the Gronksys), and are going in to dinner to celebrate Phil’s birthday. This restaurant has a magical setting right by the beach. The Thai cuisine is excellent.

TUESDAY, 2 OCTOBER 2007

This morning we have a lovely sail across to Phi Phi Don with just the headsail up averaging 6½-7 knots until we are in the waters close in and the waves are washing back off the island and confront the waves coming from the west. This last ¾ hour is very sloppy and sets up a very uncomfortable rolling of the boat.

We have fun and more exploring with the Melletts and their crew until we set off after lunch on Wednesday to head back to prepare for John and Jenny Hall to arrive.

It is always good to be in the marina to get the yacht ship shape and exciting looking forward to friends joining us.

John and Jenny are with us for a week. We venture from Yacht Haven Marina to Phanak Island and Hong Island to find hongs; then eastwards to Ko Yao Noi Island to go ashore for walking and dinner; sail south to southern tip of Ko Yao Yai, including some quick and exciting weather and wind changes; west to Kai Nok Island for snorkelling;Kai Nok Is.
John and Jenny at Kai Nok Is.

Ko Rang to anchor for the night and dinner on board (lovely to have a fireworks display); south to Ko Racha Yai for snorkelling, swimming, walking and two excellent restaurants.

A highlight here is the Ross/John risotto for dinner for 8 (the Melletts came across to catch up with the Halls and a lovely French couple who have been sailing for ten years). It begins early in the morning after our run, walk and swim when we visit the large fishing boat hereby. They invite us on board which is an experience in itself. We hope to buy one large fish but they give us about 50 smaller fish. Ross and John filet about 24 of them and give some to the French couple.

The dinner (Thai style) is wonderful with its delicate flavours. They tell us the recipe is a “secret”! It is such a magnificent night to be wining and dining – the French couple came for a drink at 6pm and stayed until very late.

(I’ve had to contend with a painful back for a while, perhaps from when I lurched into something in the rough waters off Phi Phi Don. This annoys and frustrates me immensely but with some neurofen and avoiding lifting it is soon forgotten. Also, John has been a great crew member and I haven’t had to do a lot of the usual things, e.g. helping with the dinghy).

We then have a calm crossing to Phi Phi Don to a different anchorage on the north-east coast. This area had no casualties with the Tsunami disaster but it is still being rebuilt. We enjoy a “feet-in-the-sand” dinner with local food and dancing. Breakfast the following morning is at a “Gypsy” taverna – these are one of the minority cultural groups in the area from earlier seafaring days.

Ross fixing Jenny´s toe

We have a couple of memorable days at Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Le with the Halls until we see them off on the ferry. We feel very fortunate to be able to share some of these special times with friends. Ross enjoys John’s enthusiasm to help solving problems on Impulsive – there is always something to tend to on a yacht!

Catching up with Impulsive at Koh Yao Yai

We enjoy our final two days of cruising. The weather is idyllic so we venture up to the Krabi area. This area is not protected from the prevailing south-west monsoon season so we didn’t take guests on board up into this region. It is very beautiful with the striking limestone shapes rising out of the crystal clear water and the sunsets reflecting off the wonderful rich orange-tinted colours of the tall cliff faces.

Krabi

We were fortunate to have a favourable tide to get the dinghy into the lake in Ko Hong Island. We anchor at Chicken Head Island and find the only other yacht here is our newly made French friends. They are a very interesting couple. The snorkelling here is wonderful. Our final stop is to anchor off a lovely beach on mainland Krabi. It can be touristy but we happen to arrive as most of the morning tourists are leaving (you can only get here by boat).

The skipper dealing with an issue in the engine room

We then spend three very busy days in the Yacht Haven Marina preparing to leave Impuslive to go home to Australia. As seems to be the way, everything goes smoothly for 1½ days, then there seems to be problems with organizing everything in time. However, all eventually falls into place and we are happy with the way she is left, especially knowing someone reliable is checking her regularly and running all the systems to keep everything in order.

What a wonderful three months we have had in Asia, better than either of us could have hoped for, including some exhilarating sailing.

So many people ask what we do when we get bored on the boat – we have not had one instance of this happening.

We are now so looking forward to having some time at home with family and friends and taking up our way of life there again.

Religions we observed travelling through Asia:

Indonesia: - paganism

- mostly Islam

- Hindu (Bali)

- Christianity

Singapore: - Hindu

- Buddhism

- Christianity

Malaysia: - mostly Islam

- Buddhism

- Taoism

- Hindu

Thailand: - predominantly Buddhism

- Islam

(The Thais are lovely, polite people but do respond best if respect is shown to their living and their religion, e.g. do not point your feet towards Buddha as they are our lowest dirtiest parts of our body (so sit cross legged) and our heads are the highest andcleanest.)

Cuisine

Indonesia: - nasi goring

- rice, noodles

- seafood, chicken, some beef

- satay

Singapore: - (Malays, Chinese, Indians) – They seem to eat at all times of the day.

- rice, noodles

- Indian

- Chinese

- chilies

- hawkers’ stalls

Malaysia: - (The 3 major ethnic groups are Malays, Chinese & Indian)

- rice, noodles

- vegetables (a favourite is Kangkung)

- curry

- seafood

- chicken

Thailand: - (Mixture of Thai, Malay, Chinese and seafaring gypsies)

- 3 curries – green, yellow and red with chicken, beef or seafood

- rice, noodles, pad Thai

- vegetables – e.g. morning glory, baby corn and kale

- seafood: especially prawns and squid

- + many delicate flavours using:

• limes, kaffir lime leaves

• fish stock

• lemon grass

• Thai basil

• shallots, spring onions

• chilies, chili powder

• mint leaves

• long beans, eggplants (several varieties)

• ginger

• galangal

• coriander and roots

• green curry past

• coconut milk

• cumin

• grind rice

RAAS, SAPUI, MADURA, BAWEAN ISL. & KALIMANTAN, to SINGAPORE and PENANG

Bawean Is.

RAAS, SAPUI, MADURA, BAWEAN ISL. & KALIMANTAN

WEDNESDAY, 8 AUGUST 2007

The passage up to Raas is very “rolly”. Eating dinner is a challenge to get the food on the fork, and then accurately to get it to the mouth! The night passage up between Raas and Sapui Islands is very lively. There is no way you can fall asleep during night watch with the constant appearance of other boats, from small fishing boats to large vessels. Several times we have to change course to avoid any problems – sometimes quickly. When I am on watch I enjoy seeing the Melletts lights not far away – quite comforting. We don’t speak to each other over the radio after dark for fear of waking someone up. Sleep is very precious on these long nights.

We have up to 2 knots of current in our favour for most of this passage, which is a great advantage to ensure we arrive at our next anchorage in good light.

North of Madura Island we have a smoother motor sail and average over 8 knots for the whole trip, which is excellent.

We are relieved to be inside the shoals and reefs and safely anchor at Bawean Island early afternoon. The chart here isn’t accurate so we have to rely on good sightings. The town is attractively positioned by the shore and has rice fields and vegetation leading up to a mountainous backdrop.

Bawean Is.

We choose a great time to go ashore. The children are just coming out of school, mothers are picking them up on their motor bikes, some enthusiastic women are sitting outside shops, and the town square is lively with several volley/football games happening. (This is a very fast game like volley ball using the sides of their feet to kick the ball up.) We appreciate Robbie’s use of Indonesian, and some of the Indonesians speaking a little English to help our communications. Bawean does not appear to have tourists so there is nowhere suitable to eat ashore here. We have a delicious dinner on Free Spirit II. We are wondering how we should celebrate crossing the equator on our way to Singapore. The only disappointment here is seeing plastic debris and rubbish strewn all over the place.

THURSDAY, 9 AUGUST 2007

Another rest day. Both yachts have computer issues we are trying to sort out. Geoff and Phil have great expertise in these areas.

Ross and I will leave here with happy memories of this afternoon. We went ashore to walk through a more affluent part of the village and are hoping we may be invited into someone’s home, which appears to be customary in these parts.

This part of the island is immaculately clean and the houses are well built, e.g. using roof and floor tiles. The children are returning to school after lunch on their bicycles, or on the back of their mother’s motorcycle, and are all well dressed and groomed in their uniforms.

A lovely woman invited us to sit down with her outside her shop. She called her husband, who spoke enough English to explain that people here can go to work in Singapore or Malaysia for two years and are then able to save enough money to build these more substantial homes or buy a car.

Later, to our surprise, a young girl we had spoken to earlier came up beside us and invites us to her home. She has her brother with her and they give us a lift on their bikes. That was great fun.

Lift on Aein´s brother´s bike

The house appears to be part of a family compound very solidly built with a large concrete slab and ivory coloured tiles on the floor.

We are treated to sitting in their lounge room and served a delicious type of prawn cracker and a lurid blue iced drink (a bit of a worry but there are no after effects). We meet many of Aein’s family and friends, including her welcoming and demonstrative grandmother. It is difficult to judge an Indonesian’s age but, after holding their youth longer than Westerners, they seem to age quickly. Aein is 17 and still at school studying. She plans to go to Malaysia for 3 senior years of study where she also has an older married sister.

Aein´s family house

Even though we say we would prefer to walk, Aein and her other brother insist on taking us on their bikes. They take us right out to the long bumpy groyne to the dinghy. We are glad we have some gifts from Australia for this delightful young woman, her brother and grandmother.

The tide has dropped and it is even more difficult for Ross to manage the dinghy than the previous evening. He gets it out to deeper waters more easily without me in it, but then he has the challenge of coming back in further up the groyne to pick me up.

Bawean Is.

In the meantime, it is fun trying to communicate with a group of very active young boys who are watching all this with great interest.

Later in the afternoon we can hear lots of young voices shouting, and looking out of the yacht we see that this same group of boys have come out to the edge of the reef to attract our attention. It is lovely to see them having such fun in the water with their healthy, naked little bodies and their dark skins glistening in the sun.

FRIDAY, 10 AUGUST 2007

There is always a great sense of excitement when the engine starts up in the morning, we bring up the anchor and we set off to our next destination. This time it is to Kumai in Kalimantan – another overnight sail.

The skipper resting sailing to Kumai (Kalimantan)

The skipper is very pleased as we sail over the Java Sea with up to 20 knots of wind on the starboard quarter. He is splicing some ropes this morning, amongst other odd jobs. These conditions hold for the whole trip. It is a lovely night to sail but, again, there are many fishing boats about. We all have an adrenalin-rushing tale to tell the next day as it is so difficult to manoeuvre the yacht quickly when under sail.

We have a tricky delta-type entrance into Kumai with many areas of low-lying, muddy shoals over a large expanse of water that lead into the river and which continue to the port. Fortunately, a large local vessel passes us and we are able to follow it in which is a great advantage. There are also many small local fishing boats which are very difficult to see.

There is nowhere suitable to eat ashore. We are all very wary of upset tummies and mosquitos and are in preventative mode for both these issues – dengue fever and malaria are problems throughout Indonesia, but especially here. We are careful to soak lettuce and unpeeled greens in fresh water with a small proportion of bleach mixture and, otherwise, peel fruit and cook vegetables.

We have an exciting time getting to Free Spirit for dinner. One of the dinghy davit straps broke during the last trip and dragged awkwardly in such a way that it damaged the engine. Ross decides to row the short distance across but the current is too strong. Fortunately, he is very strong and we just made it back to our boat.

Harry, our Indonesian guide for the weekend trip, comes on board Free Spirit with his 5 year old son to make final plans. Robbie and Phil had this same young man when they were here 5 years ago. He has a passion for his work, for restoring the huge National Park here, and for his country and his people. He has nearly completed his law degree but plans to continue with this work. His English is excellent also and he is very knowledgeable.

The Melletts finalized dates with him some time ago and are disappointed he may not be able to come with us. (His staff are all lovely but have very little English or education).