THAI CRUISING - POEM
THAI CRUISING
If ever you have a month to spare
And you’re not sure how to spend it
Come to Phang Nga Bay to the east of Pkuket
And you’ll find you won’t want to end it.
If you’re here in October you’ll get some rain
(This is real rain, measured in feet)
But at least it helps to keep you cool
And coolness here is a treat.
You’ll explore the hongs at Koh Phanak
Go to Koh Hong and Koh Deng Yai
You will try the resort at Koh Yao Noi
(You must practise these names each day).
You’ll get fresh squid and prawns from longboats
They go well with the local beer
If you add the Thai herbs and spices
You might out-do Maggie Beer.
You will ride out a blow at Koh Yao Yoi
And then when the weather comes good
You’ll enjoy the spectacular Phi Phi Don
You’d stay there for days if you could.
You’ll see Phi Phi Le in a longboat
Where the water is aquamarine
You might even indulge in a massage
(incognito, you’ll never be seen).
You’ll wear out the flippers and goggles
You’ll hand feed the fish at Kai Nok
You’ll tumble ashore in the tender
And taste the delights from the wok.
You’ll swim with a turtle at Koh Racha Yai
And lie with the fishing fleet
They’ll cook you a meal at the Raya Resort
You’d be battling, I think, to beat.
You’ll anchor well off at Ao Chalong
And discreetly motor ashore
The next bit’s been censored I’m sorry to say
Ask our guests, if you’re game, for more.
You’ll buy fish from the local trawling boat
With its thirty smiling crew
If you’ve bought the Thai herbs at the market
You can show your French guests what to do.
At Phi Phi you’ll eat with your feet in the sand
It’s the only way to dine
Then you’ll trip the light on the dance floor
(Pretty Woman and Sweet Caroline).
You’ll see the spectacular Krabi coast
With its orange cliffs standing sheer
And its oysters and monkeys and corn on the cob
(There are tourists even this time of year).
You’ll take some time out at marinas
At Yacht Haven and Boat Lagoon
When you plan your comings and goings there
Be sure to consult the moon.
You will find it, I’d say, a perfect place
For a second honeymoon
So why put it off any longer
Just do it, and do it soon.
IMPULSIVE
OCTOBER 2007
PENANG
WEDNESDAY, 5 SEPTEMBER 2007
The marina is in Georgetown, the capital. This is a bustling town with car, bike and rickshaw traffic. The marina is situated by the ferry terminal. These ferries are large in shape and painted in different bright colours. We had to dodge many of these as we arrived.
Mid-morning Ross and Phil find a driver who is very knowledgeable and speaks excellent English. Everything is so cheap here, especially the delicious cuisine. The cuisine is, no doubt, the result of the three main cultures - Chinese, Malay and Indian - and the myriad of subcultures, and this diversity also makes the history of the place so interesting. Places visited:
• Khoo Kongsi – a magnificent old temple;
an old Chinese clan house;
an old Chinese clan house;• Cheong Fatt Tze Mansion – 1880’s mansion, of a rags-to-riches Mandarin. A Chinese courtyard house;
• Gurney Drive Hawker Centre – a popular hawker centre (we had dinner here sitting outdoors);
• Chinese festival – a ceremony to get rid of ghosts by setting fire to paper replicas of part of their life.
Making artifacts for burials
THURSDAY, 6 SEPTEMBER 2007
Early morning run/walk by the coast. Places visited:
• Fort Cornwallis (well presented with an excellent history coverage). It was the first military and administrative base of the East India Company;
• State Museum – (very well presented).
We learned a great deal from all these visits.
We also experienced Indian cuisine and Nyonya cuisine (an exotic blend of Chinese and Malay savoury cuisines using a fine mixture of spices, herbs and onions, garlic and chillies).
Our special dinner to celebrate our anniversary is at a seafood restaurant on the coast. They have live seafood to choose from and it is cooked delectably.
Raja, our driver, explains that tourism and the economy are down, probably due to terrorism. If this restaurant is an indication, it is billed as the best in the area and we enjoy it very much, but it is “tired”.
FRIDAY, 7 SEPTEMBER 2007
Heading off before dawn again we motor (with the foresail up for some time) west of north to Pulau Payar Island, a marine park 19 nautical miles south of Langkawi. The snorkelling here in sheltered, clear water is wonderful with the warm sun on our backs. There are so many different fish of all shapes, sizes and colours. They are obviously fed as we are treated to them surrounding us as we swim over the coral. The mauve, soft corals are beautiful here.
Sailing to Langkawi
We leave mid-afternoon to track up through the islands and to find a lovely place to drop anchor. We are planning to go to the south-west side of Pulau Dayang to walk into the Princess Lake, but the wind and rain come up against us so we change track and head alongside the beautiful islands up to Langkawi to moor at the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club near the main ferry and customs jetty. This is a very attractive marina with a small but adequate infinity pool and a magnificent view. It is still raining and we are all tired so we have a lovely relaxed dinner on Free Spirit – much better than wandering around in the rain!
Langkawi marina
SATURDAY, 8 SEPTEMBER 2007
Saturday is spent sorting out yachting issues. This involves hiring a car and driving around to find different parts, mechanics, hardware, chandlery etc. It is a marvellous way to really see a place and meet the locals. We need some aluminium welding done on our dinghy motor. It is a beautiful drive out to Wave Master, a huge boat yard and marine centre. Unfortunately, the security man tells us it is closed until Monday morning.
Our second option is the Thai Village. This is not far from the very smart and professional marine centre. It is right on the coast in a lovely position but is very rundown and dilapidated. People are living in tents here and we wonder if they are “boat people”. We are told where to find the welder but discover he is away.
Guess who came to our rescue – Phil! He pop welded a bracket onto a stainless plate so as to make a lever arm to substitute for the broken throttle arm. It’s a better job than anyone else could have done.
Somewhere during the day we find a light Indian lunch and have dinner at the yacht club, which is such a beautiful setting, and we all feel happier not going out in the car again.
SUNDAY, 9 SEPTEMBER 2007
Sunday is a wonderful day. We drive up the west coast to Telaga Harbour to find “The Loaf”, a delightful bakery and bistro. This is considered of world class standard and, after eating delicious pastries overlooking the harbour, we all agree.
Bob Ton restaurant and resort
Then we drive south again looking for Bon Ton. We happen upon an Australian run delicatessen and fruit and vegetable outlet store which is a family concern. The lettuce are picked one day in Australia and arrive by air the next, and are then supplied to most of the hotels and some restaurants here. We find some useful items, especially as the fruit and vegetables available don’t seem of good quality elsewhere.
Bon Ton is a very stylish resort and restaurant with 19th century style Malay houses to stay in surrounded by a beautiful setting. It is lovely just to wander around here and take it all in.
Later we arrive at “The Lighthouse” restaurant in time to watch the sunset. Here we literally sit with our feet in the sand and not far from the gentle waves breaking on the shore. The weather is perfect and the cuisine outstanding. Definitely a highlight. We would have enjoyed doing one of the cooking classes offered here.
MONDAY, 10 SEPTEMBER 2007
We have to venture out to the fuel barge, which is never an easy exercise. We end up knocking the hull (we didn’t judge where to put the fenders correctly) and getting diesel all over the clean deck. So instead of heading off we return to the marina to clean up the boat again. We also have to clear customs here.
Eventually, we motor up the east coast of Langkawi. It is very picturesque coming up between the islands by the coast.
Unfortunately, we are delayed again by the dreaded problem of getting fishing net caught around the propeller. Ross has sighted a fishing boat which just crosses our bow laying the nets. This takes some time and many dives with a large knife to clear.
We anchor at the north-east of Langkawi at the “Hole in the Wall”. We enter this through a very narrow passage between very high rock formations. It is a beautiful and calm anchorage. There are several wedge-tailed eagles flying above and, apparently, a group of small monkeys on shore catching mud crabs.
There is also a small floating restaurant and fish farm here billed as serving fried rice which we decide to try. What a sensational meal with the rice and delicious, fresh prawns.
And another perfect, balmy night.
Phil and Robbie have met up with another cruiser, Jim and his son, who they met at Port Douglas. Jim is on his second circumnavigation and his wife joins him at different stages. They are from the USA.
We have only met a few other cruisers so far. The feeling is that the Indonesian rally of about 120 boats is so popular people tend to join that to do the first long leg in company.
TUESDAY, 11 SEPTEMBER 2007
We set off at 6.00 am in pitch darkness this morning. We are very glad to have a good spotlight as there are a few moored boats to weave our way through. It is a 70 nautical mile distance to travel and the north-west winds could come up in the late afternoon and be “on-the-nose”, which is very uncomfortable, so we want to make good way as early as possible to reach Koh Rok Nok.
The wind does come up in the west later so we can motor-sail with the headsail up, which allows us to average 6.5 to 7 knots per hour. There are little flagged buoys everywhere, and we think some may have nets attached, but we manage to steer clear of all of them. After fouling the fishing net yesterday we have to keep a close watch.
This is the most idyllic anchorage with beautiful beaches and a wonderful place to snorkel in crystal clear waters. It reminds us how amazing nature is when we see the tremendous variety of beautiful fish.
Anchored between these two small islands about 25 nautical miles from the coast gives us a lovely feeling of space. During the night about 30 fishing trawlers come in to drop anchor further out, and with all their lights on in the dark they looked quite a sight. A very small fishing boat adorned with brightly coloured lights anchored close off our bow in the early hours of the morning. It took Ross a while to work out what was happening.
WEDNESDAY, 12 SEPTEMBER 2007
After a walk up the tsunami escape route to higher ground and fabulous views and another lovely snorkel we head off to Phi Phi Don Island enjoying a sail of up to 8½ knots boat speed with 13 knots of wind.
We are disappointed when we go ashore. This is billed as the third most beautiful island in the world. It certainly is very lovely coming into anchor, but on shore the tide is right out with the wind blowing on shore at the main beach, and the town seems tawdry and obviously affected by the tsunami.
After enquiring and then searching we find a wonderfully cooked local dinner in a small “shed” café. Halfway through this meal we notice people running by in droves all in the same direction heading for higher ground. We soon learn there has been an earthquake in Sumatra and a warning of a possible tsunami. Understandably, after the last tsunami people here are very fragile about these warnings. We see some English television news, and speak with an English dive operator, who assures us it is alright as far as they are concerned, as it is just over 2 hours since the earthquake occurred and it would have reached here by now (the previous one was underwater and this one was on land, therefore, not as strong).
We also receive texts from the Joneses and the Williamses warning of this – they have just arrived in Phuket and have to change their hotel to one further from the coast.
Ross is happy with our anchorage as we have a lot of anchor chain out – enough to rise over the top of a huge wave. The greater problem would be if some of the large number of boats of all shapes and sizes in the port were to break free.
We leave the following morning to make our way south-west to Koh Racha Yai Island. Unfortunately, the winds are against us so we change track and go north-west towards Phuket to Ao Chalong Harbour. The weather is closing in and it is raining heavily so we are thrilled with Phil’s news that there are berths for us both at Boat Lagoon Marina. The entrance to this is very shallow and we can only come in on a full tide. We follow the dredged channel, but with care closer to the mariner where there isn’t much room. This is a very up-market marina, catering especially for large, garaged streamlined motor boats.
We take a hire car back to Ao Chalong to go through customs and immigration. We are pleased to have the yachts in the marina as it is a large crowded harbour and we would have had to come ashore by dinghy, possibly in inclement weather.
Unfortunately, these offices are closed so Phil and Ross plan to return in the morning. We provision on the way back to the marina, stow the boat, and have a lovely dinner at the marina by one of the open hanger garages looking over some amazing boats.
Ross and I spend time preparing the boat ready for the Joneses and the Williamses arrival the following morning. We are very excited about this and just hope this weather with its constant, heavy downpours relents soon. Apparently, at this time of the year you can expect a storm for an hour or two each day, which is welcome to clear the air, but not this constantly poor weather.
FRIDAY, 14 SEPTEMBER 2007
Ross and Phil have to return to Ao Chalong to do all the immigration and customs forms. We have to leave the marina as close to midday as we can to catch the tide or we can’t leave until the following day.
It is wonderful to have the Joneses and the Williamses on board. We set off to Ko Khai Noh Island. (Today we just have short sails planned so they can all find their “sea legs”.) This is a beautiful small island with white sand and sensational snorkelling over the fringing reef. We all snorkel together, which is just a lovely experience.
Next we head to Ko Rang Yai Island which will provide a protected anchorage for the night. We are warned not to swim off the boat here because of the strong current. We have evidence of this when Margie’s hat blows over. Ross and I try to retrieve it in the dinghy but it disappears very quickly. It apparently posed a challenge to the four crew left on the boat trying to work out how to sail the yacht if our dinghy motor failed!
SATURDAY, 15 SEPTEMBER 2007
We go ashore the next morning because Robbie said she had bought some beautiful and inexpensive pearls when last here five years ago. So we girls went ashore with great expectations.
Unfortunately, the prices have sky rocketed, but it is fun looking. We end up staying for lunch in a sheltered spot out of the rain and then head north to anchor off Koh Phanak for the night. It is still raining.
SUNDAY, 16 SEPTEMBER 2007
The following morning we head off at 5.30 a.m. to visit a “Hong” at Koh Hong Island. It is a beautiful, calm and serene morning. We have to arrive at low tide in order to get into the cave and through to its enclosed pool. The rain comes in again but it is exciting to get inside and the steep densely vegetated walls of the Hong are beautiful in these conditions. Perhaps it is better to see it this way rather than in picture book sunshine.
The plan is to sail down to Koh Racha Yai. We enjoy good sailing conditions for a couple of hours but then a squall comes in producing heavy driving rain and winds up to 30 knots. So we change plan and head instead into Ao Chalong where we anchor safely amongst lots of moored boats. The plan is to go ashore and meet the Melletts at a favourite restaurant of theirs at Patong Beach (Baan Rin Pa). Getting ashore by dinghy is great fun. It is still raining and there is not much freeboard with six in the dinghy (which is leaking). So we go ashore in bare essentials with clothes wrapped in plastic bags, drag the dinghy up the beach, change in an improvised shelter, find a taxi (for six) and head off for what turns out to be a great meal overlooking the Patong Beach.
MONDAY, 17 SEPTEMBER 2007
It is still raining (wish it would stop) but we set off south for Koh Racha Yai and have good wind for sailing. The anchorage on the north-east side (amongst many trawlers) is sheltered, the weather clears, the snorkelling is good and there is a walk across the island. This is more like it! We find that the Raya Resort will cook dinner so the ten of us have a wonderful (and inexpensive) meal there. The island is so good we decide to spend an extra day here rather than at Phi Phi.
Jones and Williams crewing - Lee bailing
Koh Racha Yai
View from Raya resort
TUESDAY, 18 SEPTEMBER 2007
It is a good decision. The weather brightens even more, we snorkel again and see a turtle, scrub the bottom of the boat, have another good lunch on board, go ashore for another walk and a swim at the surf beach on the west side of the island and arrange to eat at the same little restaurant again. This is definitely an island to return to.
WEDNESDAY, 19 SEPTEMBER 2007
We set off reasonably early for Phi Phi. 
Phi Phi Don
Neil, Russell and Ross
The wind has dropped out so we motor in calm conditions and with some assistance from the current see up to 10.5 knots speed over the ground. Russell and Lee are leaving us here so we will arrive in time for a swim and to arrange transport for them back to Phuket and, hopefully, a special farewell lunch after six most memorable and fun days.
Neil, Russell and Ross
SINGAPORE TO PHUKET - POEM
SINGAPORE TO PHUKET - Poem
The most demanding mariner’s wishes
The Bollinger came in “free flow”
It was hard to keep count of the dishes.
We cleared Singapore at the Sisters
And elbowed our way down the Road
Through hundreds of ships at anchor
All waiting their turn to unload.
When we sailed overnight past Malacca
The pirates must have been on vacation
There was only Impulsive and dozens of ships
Ranged beside us on convoy station.
Port Dickson offered a beautiful pool
And a chance to catch up on rest
We set off again with Free Spirit
To Port Klang, where who could have guessed.
That the Royal Selangor Yacht Club
Would emerge from the smells and the rain
With Carlsberg on tap and a dance floor
It was old British Empire again.
In the course of the voyage to Pangkor Laut
We met a Sumatran squall
Thirty knots from the north with driving rain
(one the forecasters didn’t call).
So we called time out at Pangkor Laut
Tried some spicy Malay creations
Had a swim and drove round in a hire car
(Fifty RM, no documentation).
We were tied at Penang by late afternoon
The ferry wash threatened our stay
We explored the hybrid of cultures
The Indian, Chinese, Malay.
The relics of British colonial days
The houses of Chinese clans
The Indian hawkers’ food stalls
Improvised anniversary plans.
Pulau Payar has coral and brilliant blue fish
That swim unfazed up to the mask
Now a beautiful sheltered anchorage
Is surely not too much to ask?
It was, for the wind came up from the south
And the sea soon resembled a wash tub
So we sailed up the east of the island
To the Royal Langkawi Yacht Club.
We did boat repairs, we took on some wine
We toured and the anchor came in
We ate on the beach at the lighthouse
(Girls choice and a definite win).
We have a short sail to the Hole in the Wall
Two hours would have been a safe bet
But there is an unscheduled stop on the way
When we foul a fisherman’s net.
We’ll eat fried rice at the jetty tonight
Then tomorrow at six o’clock
We’ll say goodbye to Malaysia
And head for Koh Rok Nok.
At Phuket Free Spirit meets Andrew and Kate
We take on the Williamses and Joneses
What price the additional crew list
After sailing Impulsive alone?
The Williamses and Joneses brought wine, cheer and rain
They tested the strength of our tender
We island hopped, snorkelled and ate good Thai food
Sent tsunamis straight back to their sender.
IMPULSIVE
AUG. / SEPT. 2007
PHI PHI DON to YACHT HAVEN MARINA
PHI PHI DON
WEDNESDAY, 19 SEPTEMBER 2007
The contrast this visit is amazing. It is a neap tide so we don’t see it with the tide right out and there is no wind.
The landscaping where we land in the dinghy has been tidied up and it seems like a lively, well kept place and also looks beautiful.
After farewelling the Joneses on the ferry to Phuket, we go in search of a Thai massage. This is a lovely experience; a combination of being very relaxed and great fun with the 6 of us lined up in a row.
Margie and Neil choose a “local” meal tonight so we return to the recommended tin shed we came to when last here – we are not disappointed. The green curry is a great favourite and costs less than $7 each, including the beer. Here the family cat goes into the large commercial fridge for a few hours to cool off! We can see it through the glass door.
THURSDAY, 20 SEPTEMBER 2007
This morning we head off in a long boat (the 4 Melletts’ crew and the 4 of us) to Phi Phi Le. This saves moving the yachts and it is more of a local experience. Our boatman is a lovely young man and it is fascinating to see the engine he works with. Luckily, it’s not as noisy as most of its kind.
This is an unspoiled island with wonderful swimming and snorkelling in exquisitely clear waters. The colours are light turquoise through to indigo. At one point we swim ashore and, clinging onto ropes, pull ourselves along the rocks and up through an opening which opens out to a path through tropical areas across to the other side of the island, which opens out to a magnificent beach (where “the Beach” was filmed). What a paradise!
Getting back to the boat wasn’t so much fun for some of us. Robbie and Kate were knocked by a wave getting back across the rocks, and I was knocked under for a while by the next one. We think a large boat must have gone by just then and set up these few large, strong waves.
We had a farewell lunch with Margie and Neil on Impulsive before seeing them off on the ferry to further their Asian travels. 
Farewelling Marg and Neil
We are going to miss our 4 crew – it has been such a special time having them. Also, having all these exploring minds on board we don’t leave much unvisited, whether it be the best places to take the yacht, local villages, restaurants and local cuisine, and for the girls – the shops!
Farewelling Marg and NeilI can’t believe that going back to Impulsive I misjudged getting out of the dinghy and fall in! It would have just been funny, except I had the camera. Perhaps my judgement is below par – Ross said he thinks I went into slight shock after the rock incident. Anyhow, we have a light omelette on the boat for dinner, and a long sleep, and I feel like a new person in the morning.
It is very relaxing to think all our long and major sailing is behind us until next February. We are planning just to cruise in Thailand for a few weeks.
FRIDAY, 21 SEPTEMBER 2007
We head off to the southern end of Ko Yao Yai, and venture by dinghy up the river to a Muslim fishing village. The houses are on stilts in this small tropical village and there aren’t many people about. It is very hot here so it is a quick visit. After another beautiful snorkel at Ko Kai Nok, with its great diversity of fish, we venture to Ko Nakha Yai to anchor overnight. It is flat calm here and another magnificent sunset, followed by a creative dinner on Free Spirit.
SATURDAY, 22 SEPTEMBER 2007
This morning we explore another Hong on the west side of Ko Phanak. This is a great adventure through a long, dark tunnel in the dinghy using a torch, through to a beautiful lagoon. It feels as if you are in a James Bond movie! These hongs were apparently first discovered in the 1990’s. We have to row back to the yacht due to motor troubles in the dinghy but this is probably a good move as several dolphins come and swim across our bow.
Anchored to the north east of this island we swim into a small beach. We have just brought fresh prawns here from a local couple in a long boat, which we cook for a delicious salad lunch. This beach is so idyllic we plan to return here and, hopefully, buy more prawns to barbecue on the beach.
Late afternoon we venture into Yacht Haven marina. On the way we notice a long boat with several men waving flags. At first we turn our boat away thinking we are disturbing their fishing nets but soon realize they have motor problems. They are very pleased to have a tow back to their village.
This evening we join the Melletts at Ban Ram Pa for a special banquet dinner to farewell Andrew and Kate. We always enjoy having the stimulation of the young, so its been great fun having their company this week.
From here we go to Chedi at Surin Beach on the north-west coast of Phuket for a couple of days of R&R off the boat. This is a wonderful place by the beach, where you have your own cottage with a marvellous view. We spend one day taking a Thai cooking course. We observe first, then cook it ourselves, then sit down to a delicious lunch. During the afternoon the chef and her off-sider (and translator), take us to the market to learn where to buy all the ingredients to enhance all the delicate flavours of Thai cooking. We are looking forward to trying all this on the boat!
With renewed vigour we return to Impulsive to tend to various issues. We are now the proud owners of a new dinghy and engine – the old one was actually leaking and the engine had been damaged so it really wasn’t safe any more. All through Asia it is a treat to have work done on the boat, e.g. the stainless steel work, as it is so cheap. ($17 per day which is incredible). It is very hot here so we are very pleased to have air-conditioning.
There are several great restaurants in the area (again very cheap). There are some by the beach where you can have your feet in the sand and another excellent seafood one on stilts.
It actually takes us four days to organize the boat to leave again. The time just disappears when doing this. It is interesting to note that Ross and Phil are asked to wear shirts when they run to show respect for Muslim Ramadam.
PHANG NGA BAY & PHI PHI DON - Hall´s on board
PHANG NGA BAY & PHI PHI DON
FRIDAY, 28 SEPTEMBER 2007
However, we leave at lunch time today and head out to the islands just cruising for a week in Phang Nga Bay, planning to take our time, read, draw and paint and try out the Thai cooking. (We have a great time at the local market buying Thai ingredients and herbs).
It is lovely on bright, sunny mornings waking up to the light dancing on the cabin ceiling as it is reflected off the water and up through the portholes. Sometimes I have been aware of it even before I open my eyes. Actually, one of the joys of cruising is waking up in a new place most days.
We are both enjoying this wonderful and easy lifestyle very much, e.g. living in bathers, swimming off the back of the boat and also showering off the back of the boat (this beats cleaning the head (bathroom) too!.
Buying fresh prawns and calamari at Karak Is.
The grandeur and majestic views of the high limestone mountains rising up out of the sea with their amazing shapes and with their wonderful colours and stalactites are comparable to the Kimberly coastline. There are many beautiful beaches to visit.
The hongs are interesting to see in different lights. They are beautiful with the sunlight shining on them but in misty, rainy weather they hold more intrigue and mystique.
James Bond Is.
Even though we have the new one we still are experiencing dinghy sagas. We realize we can’t become complacent – dinghies have an unfortunate tendency to run out of fuel (the fuel consumption is greater in this one and we just made it back to the yacht coming back from a village on Ko Yao Noi right on dark) and running aground (a tricky manoeuvre going in to a resort on the same island the previous evening up a very narrow channel in the dark. Ross has to go into the water up to his waist to push us off the rocky ledge. Another salt water wash for his good leather wallet! We have Helen and David Gronksy with us.
We have just met up with the Melletts again with their crew (Robbie’s sister, Elizabeth, and Rodney and the Gronksys), and are going in to dinner to celebrate Phil’s birthday. This restaurant has a magical setting right by the beach. The Thai cuisine is excellent.
TUESDAY, 2 OCTOBER 2007
This morning we have a lovely sail across to Phi Phi Don with just the headsail up averaging 6½-7 knots until we are in the waters close in and the waves are washing back off the island and confront the waves coming from the west. This last ¾ hour is very sloppy and sets up a very uncomfortable rolling of the boat.
We have fun and more exploring with the Melletts and their crew until we set off after lunch on Wednesday to head back to prepare for John and Jenny Hall to arrive.
It is always good to be in the marina to get the yacht ship shape and exciting looking forward to friends joining us.
John and Jenny are with us for a week. We venture from Yacht Haven Marina to Phanak Island and Hong Island to find hongs;
then eastwards to Ko Yao Noi Island to go ashore for walking and dinner; sail south to southern tip of Ko Yao Yai, including some quick and exciting weather and wind changes; west to Kai Nok Island for snorkelling;
Kai Nok Is.
John and Jenny at Kai Nok Is.
Ko Rang to anchor for the night and dinner on board (lovely to have a fireworks display); south to Ko Racha Yai for snorkelling, swimming, walking and two excellent restaurants.
then eastwards to Ko Yao Noi Island to go ashore for walking and dinner; sail south to southern tip of Ko Yao Yai, including some quick and exciting weather and wind changes; west to Kai Nok Island for snorkelling;
Kai Nok Is.
John and Jenny at Kai Nok Is.
A highlight here is the Ross/John risotto for dinner for 8 (the Melletts came across to catch up with the Halls and a lovely French couple who have been sailing for ten years). It begins early in the morning after our run, walk and swim when we visit the large fishing boat hereby. They invite us on board which is an experience in itself. We hope to buy one large fish but they give us about 50 smaller fish. Ross and John filet about 24 of them and give some to the French couple.
The dinner (Thai style) is wonderful with its delicate flavours. They tell us the recipe is a “secret”! It is such a magnificent night to be wining and dining – the French couple came for a drink at 6pm and stayed until very late.
(I’ve had to contend with a painful back for a while, perhaps from when I lurched into something in the rough waters off Phi Phi Don. This annoys and frustrates me immensely but with some neurofen and avoiding lifting it is soon forgotten. Also, John has been a great crew member and I haven’t had to do a lot of the usual things, e.g. helping with the dinghy).
We then have a calm crossing to Phi Phi Don to a different anchorage on the north-east coast. This area had no casualties with the Tsunami disaster but it is still being rebuilt. We enjoy a “feet-in-the-sand” dinner with local food and dancing. Breakfast the following morning is at a “Gypsy” taverna – these are one of the minority cultural groups in the area from earlier seafaring days.
Ross fixing Jenny´s toe
We have a couple of memorable days at Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Le with the Halls until we see them off on the ferry. We feel very fortunate to be able to share some of these special times with friends. Ross enjoys John’s enthusiasm to help solving problems on Impulsive – there is always something to tend to on a yacht!
Catching up with Impulsive at Koh Yao Yai
We enjoy our final two days of cruising. The weather is idyllic so we venture up to the Krabi area. This area is not protected from the prevailing south-west monsoon season so we didn’t take guests on board up into this region. It is very beautiful with the striking limestone shapes rising out of the crystal clear water and the sunsets reflecting off the wonderful rich orange-tinted colours of the tall cliff faces.
Krabi
We were fortunate to have a favourable tide to get the dinghy into the lake in Ko Hong Island. We anchor at Chicken Head Island and find the only other yacht here is our newly made French friends. They are a very interesting couple. The snorkelling here is wonderful. Our final stop is to anchor off a lovely beach on mainland Krabi. It can be touristy but we happen to arrive as most of the morning tourists are leaving (you can only get here by boat).
The skipper dealing with an issue in the engine room
We then spend three very busy days in the Yacht Haven Marina preparing to leave Impuslive to go home to Australia. As seems to be the way, everything goes smoothly for 1½ days, then there seems to be problems with organizing everything in time. However, all eventually falls into place and we are happy with the way she is left, especially knowing someone reliable is checking her regularly and running all the systems to keep everything in order.
What a wonderful three months we have had in Asia, better than either of us could have hoped for, including some exhilarating sailing.
So many people ask what we do when we get bored on the boat – we have not had one instance of this happening.
We are now so looking forward to having some time at home with family and friends and taking up our way of life there again.
Religions we observed travelling through Asia:
Indonesia: - paganism
- mostly Islam
- Hindu (Bali)
- Christianity
Singapore: - Hindu
- Buddhism
- Christianity
Malaysia: - mostly Islam
- Buddhism
- Taoism
- Hindu
Thailand: - predominantly Buddhism
- Islam
(The Thais are lovely, polite people but do respond best if respect is shown to their living and their religion, e.g. do not point your feet towards Buddha as they are our lowest dirtiest parts of our body (so sit cross legged) and our heads are the highest andcleanest.)
Cuisine
Indonesia: - nasi goring
- rice, noodles
- seafood, chicken, some beef
- satay
Singapore: - (Malays, Chinese, Indians) – They seem to eat at all times of the day.
- rice, noodles
- Indian
- Chinese
- chilies
- hawkers’ stalls
Malaysia: - (The 3 major ethnic groups are Malays, Chinese & Indian)
- rice, noodles
- vegetables (a favourite is Kangkung)
- curry
- seafood
- chicken
Thailand: - (Mixture of Thai, Malay, Chinese and seafaring gypsies)
- 3 curries – green, yellow and red with chicken, beef or seafood
- rice, noodles, pad Thai
- vegetables – e.g. morning glory, baby corn and kale
- seafood: especially prawns and squid
- + many delicate flavours using:
• limes, kaffir lime leaves
• fish stock
• lemon grass
• Thai basil
• shallots, spring onions
• chilies, chili powder
• mint leaves
• long beans, eggplants (several varieties)
• ginger
• galangal
• coriander and roots
• green curry past
• coconut milk
• cumin
• grind rice
RAAS, SAPUI, MADURA, BAWEAN ISL. & KALIMANTAN, to SINGAPORE and PENANG
Bawean Is.
RAAS, SAPUI, MADURA, BAWEAN ISL. & KALIMANTAN
WEDNESDAY, 8 AUGUST 2007
The passage up to Raas is very “rolly”. Eating dinner is a challenge to get the food on the fork, and then accurately to get it to the mouth! The night passage up between Raas and Sapui Islands is very lively. There is no way you can fall asleep during night watch with the constant appearance of other boats, from small fishing boats to large vessels. Several times we have to change course to avoid any problems – sometimes quickly. When I am on watch I enjoy seeing the Melletts lights not far away – quite comforting. We don’t speak to each other over the radio after dark for fear of waking someone up. Sleep is very precious on these long nights.
We have up to 2 knots of current in our favour for most of this passage, which is a great advantage to ensure we arrive at our next anchorage in good light.
North of Madura Island we have a smoother motor sail and average over 8 knots for the whole trip, which is excellent.
We are relieved to be inside the shoals and reefs and safely anchor at Bawean Island early afternoon. The chart here isn’t accurate so we have to rely on good sightings. The town is attractively positioned by the shore and has rice fields and vegetation leading up to a mountainous backdrop.
Bawean Is.
We choose a great time to go ashore. The children are just coming out of school, mothers are picking them up on their motor bikes, some enthusiastic women are sitting outside shops, and the town square is lively with several volley/football games happening. (This is a very fast game like volley ball using the sides of their feet to kick the ball up.) We appreciate Robbie’s use of Indonesian, and some of the Indonesians speaking a little English to help our communications. Bawean does not appear to have tourists so there is nowhere suitable to eat ashore here. We have a delicious dinner on Free Spirit II. We are wondering how we should celebrate crossing the equator on our way to Singapore. The only disappointment here is seeing plastic debris and rubbish strewn all over the place.THURSDAY, 9 AUGUST 2007
Another rest day. Both yachts have computer issues we are trying to sort out. Geoff and Phil have great expertise in these areas.
Ross and I will leave here with happy memories of this afternoon. We went ashore to walk through a more affluent part of the village and are hoping we may be invited into someone’s home, which appears to be customary in these parts.
This part of the island is immaculately clean and the houses are well built, e.g. using roof and floor tiles. The children are returning to school after lunch on their bicycles, or on the back of their mother’s motorcycle, and are all well dressed and groomed in their uniforms.
A lovely woman invited us to sit down with her outside her shop. She called her husband, who spoke enough English to explain that people here can go to work in Singapore or Malaysia for two years and are then able to save enough money to build these more substantial homes or buy a car.
Later, to our surprise, a young girl we had spoken to earlier came up beside us and invites us to her home. She has her brother with her and they give us a lift on their bikes. That was great fun.
Lift on Aein´s brother´s bike
The house appears to be part of a family compound very solidly built with a large concrete slab and ivory coloured tiles on the floor.We are treated to sitting in their lounge room and served a delicious type of prawn cracker and a lurid blue iced drink (a bit of a worry but there are no after effects). We meet many of Aein’s family and friends, including her welcoming and demonstrative grandmother. It is difficult to judge an Indonesian’s age but, after holding their youth longer than Westerners, they seem to age quickly. Aein is 17 and still at school studying. She plans to go to Malaysia for 3 senior years of study where she also has an older married sister.
Aein´s family house
Even though we say we would prefer to walk, Aein and her other brother insist on taking us on their bikes. They take us right out to the long bumpy groyne to the dinghy. We are glad we have some gifts from Australia for this delightful young woman, her brother and grandmother.The tide has dropped and it is even more difficult for Ross to manage the dinghy than the previous evening. He gets it out to deeper waters more easily without me in it, but then he has the challenge of coming back in further up the groyne to pick me up.
Bawean Is.
In the meantime, it is fun trying to communicate with a group of very active young boys who are watching all this with great interest.Later in the afternoon we can hear lots of young voices shouting, and looking out of the yacht we see that this same group of boys have come out to the edge of the reef to attract our attention. It is lovely to see them having such fun in the water with their healthy, naked little bodies and their dark skins glistening in the sun.
FRIDAY, 10 AUGUST 2007
There is always a great sense of excitement when the engine starts up in the morning, we bring up the anchor and we set off to our next destination. This time it is to Kumai in Kalimantan – another overnight sail.
The skipper resting sailing to Kumai (Kalimantan)
The skipper is very pleased as we sail over the Java Sea with up to 20 knots of wind on the starboard quarter. He is splicing some ropes this morning, amongst other odd jobs. These conditions hold for the whole trip. It is a lovely night to sail but, again, there are many fishing boats about. We all have an adrenalin-rushing tale to tell the next day as it is so difficult to manoeuvre the yacht quickly when under sail.We have a tricky delta-type entrance into Kumai with many areas of low-lying, muddy shoals over a large expanse of water that lead into the river and which continue to the port. Fortunately, a large local vessel passes us and we are able to follow it in which is a great advantage. There are also many small local fishing boats which are very difficult to see.
There is nowhere suitable to eat ashore. We are all very wary of upset tummies and mosquitos and are in preventative mode for both these issues – dengue fever and malaria are problems throughout Indonesia, but especially here. We are careful to soak lettuce and unpeeled greens in fresh water with a small proportion of bleach mixture and, otherwise, peel fruit and cook vegetables.
We have an exciting time getting to Free Spirit for dinner. One of the dinghy davit straps broke during the last trip and dragged awkwardly in such a way that it damaged the engine. Ross decides to row the short distance across but the current is too strong. Fortunately, he is very strong and we just made it back to our boat.
Harry, our Indonesian guide for the weekend trip, comes on board Free Spirit with his 5 year old son to make final plans. Robbie and Phil had this same young man when they were here 5 years ago. He has a passion for his work, for restoring the huge National Park here, and for his country and his people. He has nearly completed his law degree but plans to continue with this work. His English is excellent also and he is very knowledgeable.
The Melletts finalized dates with him some time ago and are disappointed he may not be able to come with us. (His staff are all lovely but have very little English or education).
KALIMANTAN
KALIMANTAN
SATURDAY, 11 AUGUST 2007
We all go ashore at 7.30 a.m. Harry, our agent, will arrange for clearance papers from Indonesia to be ready for our departure in a few days.
Then we are off to the local market to buy food with one of his young staff members. It is great to see the market but the outing seems very disorganized. Eddy is very indecisive so it takes a long time, and we then get caught in a huge downpour of rain with very little cover. Halfway through this excursion Geoff comes to find Ross as he and Harry are worried about our yacht. Apparently it has dragged anchor, but all is well by the time we return to the office.
Our expedition is looking a little glum at this stage and feeling very wet. We were all looking forward to it so much.
Our fortunes change! Harry has sorted out his crisis and he can now take us as planned. Eddy completes his shopping very quickly and efficiently and the engine is started ready for us to board the long boat.
As we depart on our Borneo Wilderness Orang-utan Eco-Tour a young man is dropped off onto each of our yachts to stay aboard and watch them for us until we return after dark tomorrow night – what an incredible service! Apparently, their families take their meals out to them on their boats. The Australian dollar goes a long way here!
Sekonga River (Kalimantan)
We head off up the Sekonger River to Tanjung Puting Reserve National Park some 3040 sq. km. It has low-lying swampy terrain through which flow blackwater rivers. There are many mangrove swamps near the coast. There is also rainforest with a canopy of 40 metres. There is peat swamp forest and open areas of abandoned rice fields.
Eddie preparing lunch on the long boat
This area is famous for its orang-utans and has research and conservation programmes in place, including soft and hard release programmes, depending on the situation of the orang-utan. There are seven other species of monkeys and we saw proboscis and long-tail monkeys.Apparently, there are over 220 species of birds. We certainly heard them often. We saw hornbills and larger species of kingfishers with the most brilliant colours. There are many beautiful species of butterflies, but we particularly admire the electric blue ones, and we spot a baby seawater crocodile sunning itself on a log.
We feel it is such a privilege to experience being amongst such biodiversity in this tropical rainforest, especially at the three different stations to watch the orang-utans.
On each occasion the feeding time is at the same hour each day and the ranger calls out loudly to encourage the orang-utans to come in. It is wonderful walking in through the forest and to hear and see these amazing animals approaching the feeding station. You may only see a tree high up swaying, or hear the rustle of branches and leaves, but gradually the orang-utans appear.
Orang-utans
We see all types and watch many different personalities behavioural roles played out, e.g. the dominant male of a group, the adolescents, including a "rape” of a mother who had her baby with her, the mother and baby, the pregnant orang-utan and many others. To see them swinging through the trees is amazing – they are so strong. They make the trees sway so they can reach across to the next one they want to reach. The orang-utans are fed bananas and given milk to drink in a large square bucket. Some of their antics are great to watch. They actually peel the bananas before eating them. Some of them seemed very greedy judging by the huge number they ate. There is a definite hierarchy within each group.
Orang-utans Tanjung National Park
I particularly enjoyed watching some of the mother/baby relationships. The mother suckles her young and you can just see their close relationship.At the Leakey Research Station, the third station, we are thrilled to be so near the orang-utans and we could have reached out and touched a mother sitting on the ground, suckling her young baby and caring for her other young one at the same time.
Walking along the path one of the older females walks along too but a few times became a little undecided about which way to go, especially when we try to overtake her. When the guides run from her as she tries to approach them we realize you can’t take liberties with these animals, especially as they are so strong. She actually tried to grab my leg, which was quite exciting! (She is very gentle really. Apparently, she was born here in captivity so is very used to the environment.) There is a heavy downpour of rain and it is such fun to see several of them pick some large leaves and put them over their heads like umbrellas.
Chugging along the beautiful river in the long boat through the tropical rainforest is another delight. Throughout the trip Harry offers a wealth of information that is very much appreciated. The scenery is wonderful, the wildlife bountiful, and we pass by many small fishing boats.
One of the highlights of the trip is Eddie’s cuisine. It is sensational with his use of herbs and spices and wonderful recipes learned from his mother. He also manages this in very cramped conditions.
The six of us have one of the funniest nights we have had for a long time sleeping on the long boat. We decided the easiest thing is just to go to bed dressed as we are. We sleep on mattresses laid out beside each other on the deck and under mosquito nets. We all figure we won’t be having much sleep so we just rest as well as we can. There is discussion about the hilarious film “Kenny” because of the toilet on board which is open to the sky and provides cover just to chest level.
It is exciting waking up in the jungle the following morning listening to the orchestra of birds singing.
The final delight is sitting on the deck of the long boat in the dark and looking out at masses of groups of fireflies and looking up to the lovely clear sky scattered with thousands of bright, shimming stars.
We also visit a village that was relocated 33 years ago from the National Park to the other side of the river. They are still struggling to be self-sufficient because the land is so very poor – most of it is wet and soggy, so anything they grow has to be raised in pots. The government has helped but it is very difficult for these people. You can see from some of the houses and gardens most of them have worked very hard and have great pride. We meet a lovely old lady who is 84 and has had twelve children. We hope, with Harry’s help, we may be able to contribute something, e.g. a cow for the village, or a duck for each family.
Elderly woman from a relocated village from the National Park
What a wonderful and inspiring experience!
MONDAY, 13 AUGUST 2007
Feeling refreshed after a hot shower and a deep sleep we take up the anchor before 6.00 a.m. at first light to make our way west across the southern coast of Kalimantan and then north-west overnight to Seratu Island in the Java Sea.
We have an unexpectedly good sail until about 9.30 p.m. with 17-20 knots of wind on the port quarter, averaging about 7 knots S.O.G. We prepare the spinnaker pole for goose-winging on the new leg but the wind drops out so we have a pleasant drama free night motoring. There are very few other boats about on this leg.
We venture ashore at Seratu Island early evening. This is a very small and attractive island with the tiny, very under-developed village right on the beach nestled in below the backdrop of mountains.
A very lively young man helped us ashore (Phil has very kindly lent us his dinghy as we need to repair ours in Singapore).
The population here is very small so we have a quiet time with the welcoming people and their children. Some are already cooking fish on beach fires for their dinner.
We enjoy a walk along the white-sanded beach to the small mosque at the other end. Apparently, the Saudi Arabians built this and sent Imans here to teach their strict religious views, but we are very surprised when we see two young women dressed in short denim skirts.
We up anchor at about 4.30 a.m. and it is an easy anchorage to leave in the dark. We have 285 nautical miles to travel, which means another overnight sail. Apart from a minor issue with our depth sounder (used for checking shoals and reefs) all went well. Ross later fixes this, which is a relief for arriving at our next destination.
What a wonderful way to cross the South China Sea. We average 7.5 knots, the wind is behind us so the sails are set for goose-winging and it is a glorious day. I spent most of the day stretched out in the cockpit reading “Old Filth” by Jane Gardham.
We run the engine now and again to boost the batteries, run the refrigerators and keep up our speed average. When we are sailing it’s a great opportunity to listen to music.
These same conditions last through the night until 1.00 a.m. when the winds drop out and we motor just with the mainsail up.
I experience a slightly unnerving experience during my night watch. A vessel shows up ahead on the radar and, even when it is only 3 nautical miles away, I cannot see any lights. I keep changing course, but it changes course also, and continues heading towards us. (I’m not able to go to starboard because of the sail.) It must be a small vessel, as a light finally appears just under 2 nautical miles away. I am very relieved to pass by it.
The following morning we both feel tired and, although we enjoy the night watches, are pleased this is the last one for a while.
We cross the Equator at 9.50 a.m. - Neptune didn’t appear – and it was too early for a celebratory champagne. It is still a very exciting milestone as we now head into the northern hemisphere.
There is some disquiet when a fishing boat up ahead seems to remain on our track even when we change course. Then when we finally pass it turns and follows us. We put on plenty of power and, luckily, the wind picks up and gives us extra speed so we are able to outrun it. We later discover that the same thing happens to Phil and Robbie. It is not clear whether the fishermen were just curious or whether they had a more sinister purpose. It is the only time we have felt any discomfort at all in Indonesia. There is also a tradition here that if you are not having any luck catching any fish, if you go close to another vessel you can dispel any bad spirits from your boat to the other one.
We anchor just before dusk at Mesanak Island which is a beautiful tropical island. We bump a “bombie” on the way in which isn’t very clever but all is well. We are looking forward to getting the depth sounder fixed. There are many man-made wooden fishing traps in this area which stick up above the water level.
This is one place it would be lovely to have a few hours of daylight to enjoy a swim and a walk ashore, but we set off at 5.30 a.m. in the dark so we can arrive in Singapore in time to clear customs and be tied up at the marina before dark. We are all keen to be there for Sunday lunch at Raffles to celebrate Geoff’s birthday.
It is a lovely calm passage today up through the straits between many islands to Singapore. We are taking with us many happy memories from our cruising time in Indonesia – some wonderful sailing, beautiful places, many lovely, warm and welcoming people, and something of their culture.
Ross and I are looking forward to having a few days here to revisit some of the places Heather and Paul took us to when we stayed with them here some years ago. Also, we have the usual list of items to attend to on the yacht.
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