TOUR OF SRI LANKA - DAY 1

TOUR OF SRI LANKA - DAY 1

COLUMBO

We drive up the east coast to Columbo with lovely views of the many beaches and coastal towns. We see evidence of the tragedy of the tsunami here. 40,000 people died and 10,000 are missing. We see a train which was struck by it and can´t believe the damage it caused.

We visit a moonstone mine. They also grow cinnamon and cashews here.

Local tractor

At Columbo we change drivers. Mahindi has excellent English and stays with us for the rest of the trip.

We then have a wonderful visit to the elephant orphanage - Pinnawala. This is a marvellous institution where young elephants are brought in to be cared for. Their mothers may have been shot, e.g. by farmers protecting their crops. We watch the elephants for several hours and feed some of them bananas as they bathe, swim and drink water in the river.









The eldest one is 65 years old and is blind. There are several babies, the youngest of which is 1 month old, and so much fun to observe. Then we walk over to their feeding pavilion. They are given coconut palm fronds and the younger ones are given several bottles of milk. It is all a wonderful experience, especially giving an elephant a bottle of milk.

DALADA MALGAWA IN KANDY

We visit this famous temple of the tooth relic of Buddha. This temple was bombed by the Tamils in 1996, but is now restored. We are frisked twice before we can enter. It holds manuscripts which are 2,000 years old and are still in good condition.

Our dinner tonight is a really local experience and lots of fun. It is an Indian restaurant, the Ram, near the centre of Kandy. There is no alcohol served here so we order and then go a few doors up to a quaint pub, the Victoria, for a beer. They call us when our meal is ready and it is absolutely delicious.

MALDIVES

MALDIVES

We motor until 1300 hours the following day, and there is quite a swell. 17 kts of wind comes up forward of the beam, so we can sail with the headsail and mainsail up averaging 7 kts. This lovely sail lasts for 6 hours until the wind drops out and the current is against us. Later during night watch the wind comes up on the beam averaging 9 to 12 kts, we have the current with us and have the foresail up, motoring with minimum revs, averaging 7 kts boat speed. The swell has subsided and it is wonderful to watch the fine red-tinged moon drop below the horizon in the early hours of the morning. The rest of the crossing is uneventful with calm weather and so no complaints.

One of the nights I struggle to keep awake with night watch. The weather was very hot and humid in Galle, and so tiring. If there is something to do it is easier so I keep myself busy writing up crew lists for customs. We need 9 of them in the Maldives. Also an engrossing book helps, eg. The Vanishing Act of Esme Lennox by Maggie Farrell, and Nine Summers by Rina Huber - It’s about a couple sailing in the Mediterranean. It is also lovely to be out in the cockpit in the fresh air and just take in the beautiful night. I always enjoy the feeling of peace and space out there.

The Maldives is a very welcome stop in our journey across the Indian Ocean. We still have over 1200 nautical miles to go. We drop anchor at Uligan at 9am. This is the northern-most atoll of about 1300 small coral islands. We can see the concerns of strong tidal surges here seeing that all the islands are low-lying, none rising more than 1.8 m. above sea level.

We call the coast guard but because of a holiday they can’t come out to check the yacht in until 3pm. Apparently, we are unable to go ashore until we are cleared. This maybe an excellent idea as we can catch up on some well needed sleep.

The 4 young men who come out to the boat are immaculately dressed in their white or khaki uniforms. It is so relaxed here too, with no guns or machine guns! We are relieved to hear we can buy fuel here, as we heard differing reports about this.

Their rules are relaxing. The dress code to go ashore was strict (as written in the pilot book) but now they just request you don’t wear a bikini. The locals still wear Muslim dress. You can now go ashore after dark, not that there is anything to do there, and you are requested not to take alcohol ashore.

For yachties there are 2 dinner options ashore. (It is rather delightful there are no cafes or restaurants). One is on the beach and each yacht can bring in their favourite dish from their country to share or, secondly, the locals will put on a dinner for a minimal cost. There are several other yachts anchored here and we all book for the second option on our second night.

When we arrive the crystal clear waters are as we imagined, and just the most beautiful shades of blue. The following day is, unfortunately, overcast with a slightly choppy sea. We are booked to receive fuel at 9am. They eventually come to our boat at 3pm after starting late at the boats anchored further away. So we have a quiet day dealing with boat issues while we wait. We are disappointed to hear the dinner is cancelled due to the weather. We probably have to leave tomorrow so will miss it. The weather forecast is for a tropical depression coming through in 3 days, so if we leave tomorrow we can stay ahead of it. We have also been so looking forward to snorkeling here. We hoped to go out with some local lads but the weather isn’t suitable.

We go ashore several times. The population here is only 435 and everyone is very friendly. The teenage girls are stunningly attractive and have lovely, smart clothes still in keeping with the Muslim restraints.

We have several lovely walks along the pristine beaches and through the centre of the island, which has luxuriant growth of coconut palms.



There are hundreds of crabs everywhere of different shapes and sizes with their multi-coloured shell protection on their backs.

The village is spotlessly clean. Stone built fences surround their neat homes which are built on sandbanks. The sand surrounding the homes and throughout the village is pristine white.

The tranquillity and ambience is about to change here. This week they begin to build a new marina, resort and airstrip.

Delivering fuel

Some people are interested in our work at home. It has been rewarding to be able to help a few people with some basic physio.

Apparently, Sri Lanka is one of the poorest countries in the world. Its economy is improving, especially with the increase in tourism.

The Maldives were first settled by Buddhists in the 5th Century BC. This dominance was followed by the Portuguese, later the Dutch and then the English, which is the pattern seen in Sri Lanka, India, Indonesia, East Indies and Malaysia. It must all be linked to the spice trade.

SAILING FROM THE MALDIVES TO OMAN

SAILING FROM THE MALDIVES TO OMAN

We head off north of west 302 degrees in a direct line to Oman. All goes well until 8p.m. the second evening when we have been sailing and need to turn the motor on again. It doesn’t respond. What an anxious time when we are fluffing around in the Indian Ocean with no power and no wind to speak of. We often have to fiddle with the throttle in the saloon and in the cockpit so they are correctly aligned, but it has always started. We have had this looked into many times and there has never been another solution.

Phil happened to call us soon afterwards and talked Ross through some incredible manoeuvres. Ross is amazing how he can concentrate and just keep working at something. He is in the very hot engine room and can’t see the parts involved because of fridge parts, but he can feel them. He has to peel back the protective tape of 2 wires and link them with a small screwdriver to get contact - all by feel. By this stage I am thinking a tow by a large container ship seems like a good idea!

Phil is still very patiently and assuredly conveying instructions over the radio. Some one and a half hours later Ross says he is ready to try it. What a marvellous sound when I turned the key on and the engine started first time. I so admire my skipper, as this was quite a challenge for him. And we are so grateful to Phil for being able to tell us so clearly and explicitly how to manage it all. We are especially grateful as it is Phil and Robbie’s 30th wedding anniversary and they have had their dinner interrupted.

We are nearly 8n. miles behind them now. We will try to make up some ground during the night. We have been sailing with another yacht from the Maldives and we are not sure how far behind it we are, but probably about 2 hours by the time we get under way.

Our night watches are out of routine now but we are so pleased to be under way again that is the least of our problems. We can always sleep during the day to catch up. We are not turning the engine off until we reach Oman, but the winds are favourable and with low revs we motor sail with both sails up all night and catch up some ground with Free Spirit.

This whole episode reminds us of when crossing the Great Australian Bight the alternator belt stretched and we had no power for the 8 days crossing. That couldn’t be fixed without mechanical help.

I think I have a touch of homesickness today. This is because when Scott said he was bringing Augusta home for Easter we assumed we could be there. However, we hadn’t realized at the time Easter is so early this year, and we can’t be there. Easter has been such a family time for us all. However, we are pleased to know they are safely there and will have a great time with Heather and Steve and their families. It will be wonderful for Augusta to have the time with her cousins. We are planning to meet Scott and Augusta in Dubai on their way home, so are really looking forward to that.

What a lovely time of the evening to be sitting in the cockpit at dusk having dinner, with both sails up, averaging 7 kts with a steady wind of 15-17 kts (we won’t turn the motor off until we are tied up at Salalah, Oman).

We are having dinner early so we can watch a movie together before beginning our night watches. Last night we watched "Miss Potter" which is delightful. It is when we turn on tonight’s DVD we realize the inverter isn’t working (the one we had replaced in Phuket). During the night Ross realizes the water-making machine isn’t working, and we are working our back up auto-pilot system. This is all very frustrating, and gives Ross more challenges for tomorrow. All these functions have to be organized before we leave Salalah.

So we listen to some music instead. It is a lovely clear, calm night with a nearly full moon shining down on the yacht and across the ocean. This is almost a meditative atmosphere.

The only excitement during the night, which we didn’t need, is during my watch at about 3am. We hadn’t seen another ship out here for over 24 hours. I notice a large container ship 12n. miles ahead on the radar coming in our direction and directly by our rhumb line on our port side. It is moving very quickly and is very large because it isn’t long before I see its lights on the horizon. To be safe I change our course 13 degrees to starboard (bearing in mind the sails are still up), so it is difficult to change to port (i.e. downwind). I think this will give a clear indication of our intentions. And still it seems to be coming directly towards us. When it is frighteningly close I call Ross. We forget about the sails and veer off sharply to port. Simultaneously the other vessel turns sharply to its port also. How bizarre to have two boats out here with all this space, on a collision course. Even out here we can’t be slack with our watches, as easy and relaxing as it may seem.

This morning, our 5th day out, Ross tries to fix the inverter with help from Phil over the radio. The invertor system is set up so it cannot produce 240v from the generator without the invertor working. So when the invertor fails it has to be by-passed. This is a very difficult task, seeing the way Ross has to contort his body to do this. Fortunately, Ross had asked what to do if this system broke down again. Then talking with Phil it is apparent that the water-maker system has to be included in this by-pass. This is another tricky job in this same small space. They also ascertain that the unit is broken and will have to be replaced (the 4th one so we think it is best to request a different make).

At 1300 hours we cross the halfway point. This is our longest crossing so far. I guess we have known how long it will take, and so can prepare psychologically for this time, e.g. reading, (Ross is reading Samuel Pepys and I The Oyster Catchers - both are book group books), writing, drawing, tasks on the boat and cooking. It is interesting to tune into the "sked" at 5.30 p.m. and hear the other yachts positions and any experiences they have had. Peter sailing single handedly in a small 24 ft. yacht (how brave is that!) cannot carry enough fuel to reach Salalah so Phi has offered to rendezvous with him tomorrow and give him 60l. The yacht Tania had a worrying time yesterday with a fishing boat staying beside them for a while. Nothing came of it so they were probably just inquisitive. These other yachts had to wait 3 days before they had a suitable forecast to leave the Maldives. Also we heard the third yacht we were sailing with is not far behind us now.

We also do our exercises each day, and have a sleep to prepare for our night watches. Waking up for these watches reminds me of when the family were babies and woke for their night feeds. Sometimes it is difficult to wake up.

I still enjoy lying in our bed near the bow of the boat, and listening to the water lapping on the hull. Of course, in stronger conditions it is great to feel Impulsive surging through the water.

This morning (Friday) we make a telephone connection at 6a.m. our time with Mark in Sydney to do a sea trial calibration exercise on the auto-pilot. We had to both been up before this to organize the sails and be ready. (This is our usual changeover time for the next watch so I am particularly sleepy.)

The trial involved doing 360 degree turns and other manoeuvres in the middle of the Indian Ocean, which does seem an unusual thing to be doing. Unfortunately, this doesn’t throw any light on the auto-helm failure. Our next communication for this is not until next Tuesday a.m. because of the Easter break.

We sail for 3 days and nights with the same sail setting which is just wonderful. This sailing culminates with 20kts apparent wind yesterday afternoon with lots of spray over the deck. This is very welcome as the weather forecast is for very light winds today. The wind then drops off gradually through the night down to 6kts, as is forecast. This will be ideal if it holds as it gives us a cool breeze coming over the bow. We are having a leather cleaning session of the saloon furniture this morning so every breeze is appreciated.

The following day the wind averages between 14 and 19 kts on the nose, and the seas are choppy as, motoring, the yacht heads into them. This causes a slight build up of elevation of the boat over a series of waves, until it finally slaps down hard on the next wave. This is quite deceptive if you are up in the bow as it can sound and feel quite violent.

Later, during the evening, the sea settles to be calm and smooth. The silence of the ocean is very tranquil, and makes for a very relaxing time as there is not enough wind to sail and so takes out the element of concern for having the sails set optimally.

The weather continues in this vein. During the early hours of the following morning we cross the shipping path of some large container ships. We are only 47n. miles from Oman.

This has been a great crossing. We didn’t experience as many of the n.east monsoon winds as expected (which are favourable for this crossing) but we are fortunate the conditions were so benign.

Now we look forward to being securely moored in Salalah, and are very excited to be seeing Scott and Augusta in Dubai in 3 days time.

FAVOURITE RECIPES THIS LEG:

FAVOURITE RECIPES

LUNCH:

This is one we enjoy for a light lunch on a very hot day.

1 cantaloupe, chilled and cut in half and squeeze with some lime juice.

Mix in a bowl: Medium size can of Sirena Tuna (from Australia-we still have some stowed on board)
Large bunch of grapes
Finely diced cucumber

Mix with a light vinaigrette dressing (a light mayonnaise is optional) and spoon into the cantelope.



DINNER FOR 2:

2 salmon fillets marinated in lime juice.
Poach gently and garnish with coriander.

Serve with this local eggplant dish:
1 medium size eggplant (these are finer and lighter than what we are used to)
2 cloves of garlic crushed.
Half a Spanish onion finely diced.

Tamarind sauce freshly made local style:
Cook the garlic and onions, add the eggplant and simmer until just tender
Spoon through 3 tblspns tamarind sauce - taste and adjust if necessary

Serve with new potatoes and green salad eg lettuce. local spinach (which has quite a poignant flavour) and finely chopped wing beans (these add interest to any salad as they are tasty, crisp and an attractive star shape if cut across the bean), avocado, cucumber and fetta cheese.

SRI LANKA TO SALALAH VIA THE MALDIVES - Verse

SRI LANKA TO SALALAH VIA THE MALDIVES - Verse

The ocean resumes its huge expanse
It´s benign and suggests no duel
We motor along beneath cloudy skies
We hope we can purchase more fuel

But it´s good to be back on the water
It´s cooler and feels safe as well
And there´s plenty of interest with ships to dodge
As we roll side to side on the swell

On our second day out the wind appears
And moves from west to north
We sail along at over eight knots
No need for an engine henceforth?

But that of course was a naive hope
When the wind drops out at night
We´re motoring under a headsail
And hope the fuel´s all right

The next day it´s even calmer
The sea is a ripple of glass
Which reflects the silver flying fish
As they do their skip-fly pass

Young dolphins come over to wish us good night
And exude their sense of vigour
They´re absurdly energetic
Will they still be when they´re bigger?

We reach the Maldives at 9 am
We must wait til 2 for clearance
Five men arrive with umpteen forms
And Susie must watch her appearance

Ulingan is small and is fringed by reef
There´s a white sandy beach all around
For only four hundred inhabitants
More remoteness could hardly be found

But they´re planning to build a hotel here
Construction´s already begun
The island will change,dramatically
What price for tourism fun?

We´re off on the long stretch to Oman
It´ll take us about nine days
Twelve hundred and fifty miles to go
A routine and patience pays

With a thousand nautical miles to go
We can´t get the engine to kick
Phil radios jump start instructions
To Impulsive´s fledgling mechanic
(Who is showing modest signs of improvement)

Now the wind has settled down into a slot
Please let it stay there for ever
And the grib files show that we seem to be clear
Of some potentially nasty weather

It stayed for a day ,but of course not for ever
It moved round towards north west
Not right on the nose but not far off
And not conducive to rest

It´s our fourth day out and we´re feeling tired
But we´re almost half way there
We´re coaxing it back towards north again
So Impulsive can show some more flair

It did come back to the north that night
And under a three quarter moon
We sailed back up to the rhumb line
We don´t want to end this too soon

But we have some equipment problems
First the auto pilot fails
The inverter and water-maker then stop
Why not stick to old-fashioned sails?

The sails do the job,for the wind stays up
And we barrel along north north west
Phil´s trying to get some fuel to Cool Change
The rendezvous could be a test

This morning the sea is so dapple-calm
That the massive setting moon
Reflects like a bolt of lightning
Must we get to Salalah so soon?

Now we´re the only boat on the ocean
In the centre of a huge blue disc
There´s a cool breeze wafting down from the bow
It´s serene and there´s no sense of risk

So with just a bit under two days to go
We´re happy and feeling up-beat
Perhaps it relates to our viewing last night
Of the charming film Happy Feet

We reach Salalah on our ninth day out
With a sense of relief and pleasure
There´s a list of jobs(and sleep)to do
Then Dubai for five days of leisure.

MARCH 2008

OMAN TO THE RED SEA

OMAN TO THE RED SEA

MONDAY, 31 MARCH 2008

Unfortunately, our flight from Dubai is delayed so we are unable to spend a planned few hours in Muscat. Landing at Muscat is like looking down at rows and rows of white, toy, leggo-type houses without a curve in sight.

We arrive back in Salalah with just enough daylight hours to drive up to a nearby wadi. In the dry season these valleys are dried river beds of boulders, but apparently once the rainy season comes they fill with flowing waters and everything turns green and lush overnight.

We sit next to very interesting people on each plane trip and learn a great deal about the culture and way of life here. For example, I am requested to change seats with Ross so Noor, a 23 year old, isn't sitting next to a man she doesn't know. She is wearing full robes and head gear and says she enjoys the anonymity of it.

Back at the port we find there is top security as the President of Dubai's motor launch is tied up opposite us. We feel very safe here.

TUESDAY, 1 APRIL 2008

Fuel is booked to be delivered at 9am today. Robbie and I leave early in the car to provision before the heat of the day.

This turns into a frustrating day. Our agent is still chasing the fuel carrier at 5pm (this is why we have an agent or we would never have got fuel today). This means someone has to be on the boat all this time so we are ready when he does come. The fuel truck finally arrives at 6pm.

Ross is also waiting for the Ray Marine (auto-pilot) technician. This is a farce. Because of visa complications he has to take a nine hour bus trip, rather than take a plane from Muscat, and he finally arrives at 8.30pm. We have to leave the following morning if we want to join the flotilla. This man was given no diagnosis and has brought no spare parts. We will have to go up the Red Sea relying on the older, spare auto-pilot. So we are not happy either, as it is not good at holding in a following sea.

Ross has also been waiting all day for the fridge expert to gas the 12V fridge. He is exhausted by the time we fall into bed. Being on time isn't a strong point of society here.

WEDNESDAY, 2 APRIL 2008

We leave Salalah Port early on a beautiful morning in the flotilla with Free Spirit, Impulsive, Greetings (with Greg and Terry from the U.S.A.) and La Novia ( with Mike and his one crew member, from U.K. but now living in Cyprus).

We all have agreed to travel at an average of 7kts. We have agreed waypoints so if we get out of sight we can give over the radio our distance and bearing from that waypoint, without giving our present position to any other boats.

Today we are bashing into a head wind so are motoring with the headsail up to steady the boat.

THURSDAY, 3 APRIL 2008

By evening I should know better than to think nothing else can go wrong. Just as Ross is going down to bed and I begin night watch, we both hear a loud, screeching noise followed by a slapping sound.

Ross discovers it is a very loose fan belt. We have to turn off the engine but, fortunately, we have good sailing conditions and can maintain an average of 6 kts. The other boats generously wait back with us while Ross tightens the belt. Unfortunately, it breaks shortly afterwards, so he will have to replace it.

I am so proud of my skipper. He has never done this before and it is very difficult, mainly getting into such an inaccessible area. Ross is very grateful to have watched Phil tighten and check fan belts before, and Phil is able to give helpful advice now over the radio. Mike also helps over the radio as he has an identical engine on his boat. After 2 hours we are underway again. Ross is extremely stiff after putting his body through the different contortions to get to the required parts. Fortunately because we could keep sailing , averaging about 6 kts, we haven't inconvenienced the other boats too much.

OMAN TO THE RED SEA

OMAN TO THE RED SEA

We pass by Socotra Island (Yemen) at some distance off. This is a high-risk area for piracy. We are now heading out of the Arabian Sea and into the Gulf of Aden where we sail (as advised) between the piracy risk areas off Somalia and Yemen. Somalia is top of the DO NOT VISIT list. There is still no legitimate government there so the country is still in a chaotic and anarchic state. We have both just read the "Infidel" by Ayaan Hirshi Ali, which certainly gives us a greater insight into Somalia and Islam.

FRIDAY, 4 APRIL 2008

Today is a pleasant and uneventful day. On night watch tonight I feel my nerves are tested somewhat. A small fast boat appears and settles off to the starboard side of our group. The plan is we sail no further than 1/2 n.mile apart and in some kind of formation. Also, we just have our low deck navigation lights on so we can see each other clearly, but other boats can't see us more than 4 n.miles away. We speak boat to boat on an agreed radio station, which we don't give over the radio. Neither do we discuss our whereabouts or waypoints over the radio. If there is a pirate attack we are to let off flares, let them know we have channel 16 operating, and set off the Epirb if necessary. We have all hidden precious articles, computers etc., and just left not so important items of interest and cash (U.S.$) in more accessible and obvious places. None of our 4 boats carry arms.

This vessel then moves across behind the group directly in line with us. I increase our speed and close in behind Mike. Sometime later he radios us and asks for more room to starboard as he needs room with the huge cargo ship coming towards us. Both sails are up so this is a difficult manoeuvre for Impulsive but there is no choice. Of course, the flapping sails wakes Ross, but I am pleased to have his support to get us back on track. The smaller vessel behind is now moving out to starboard again and is pulling away from the group.

Later, during this same watch, another vessel came near us, but not for long. By now I am thinking this is just about enough, and I am pleased to go below to sleep.

SATURDAY, 5 APRIL 2008

Our worries of the previous night are probably well founded. Ross hears the coalition warship on the radio this morning and calls them up. There were two pirate attacks last night within 10 n.miles of our position off Al Mukalla in Yemen. The same night the large French luxury yacht was taken for ransom off the Somalian coast (apparently they were traveling much closer to the coast than advised, but they were taken in International waters and dragged into Somalian territory).

We start to see many more large cargo ships now and this is comforting.

Later this afternoon Mike, who is ahead, radios us to say he can see a large tow vessel coming directly towards us and advises us all to close in together. This vessel comes quite close but turns in different directions and sometimes circles, which is quite strange. Mike then spots a large, latticed hatch cover floating by and surmises the boat is simply looking for this.

We have some good sailing through the Gulf of Aden up to the Red Sea with the headsail poled out. We pass reasonably close by the coast near Aden, as this is considered a safe area, but north of the high risk area near Djibouti.

U.S.A. yacht in the flotilla

We pass through the Straits of Bab-el-Mandeb at 1600 hours and are very excited as we have now crossed the Indian Ocean, some 3,900 n.miles. Now we are looking forward to more relaxed times ahead, and no more long sailing until later next year when we head out across the Atlantic.

We pass by the naval station on the island off Yemen some distance off, as you can be arrested if you venture too close to their waters.

We cross over to the shipping channel to the west side. This is the major channel to and from the Suez Canal. It is extremely busy with large cargo ships and they all appear to be traveling at high speed. All care is taken with this 7 n.mile crossing.

The radar is a great help here so we can judge a good break in the constant line of vessels to make the crossing. Now we are on the Eritrean side and just see glimpses of the dry rugged coastline.

During the night we have a strong following sea and when a sudden, unexpected, squally gust comes up the boat speed is increased, and the auto-pilot cannot hold its course, so the boat rounds up. This puts too much pressure on the pole's connection to the mast, so it breaks. (We are so frustrated because we feel this would not have happened if the Ray Marine auto-pilot had been working). This is not fun to fix up, especially when the gear lever then jammed. Again, Ross is woken from a deep sleep but is able to get us underway again. He is very tired and will benefit from a few good sleeps when we arrive at Massawa.

RED SEA - MASSAWA, ERITREA

RED SEA - MASSAWA & ASMARA, ERITREA

TUESDAY, 8 APRIL 2008

We arrive at Massawa port at 9am. It is quite a procedure to check in here and takes some time. It is all done within the port, but all in different buildings. Most people speak basic English in the offices but sometimes there are difficulties.

This is a very war-torn city from all the years at war with Ethiopia. It is sad to see the many once beautiful old buildings which have been bombed, and you can still see evidence of schrapnel holes everywhere.

Massawa Port

We go to a local place for lunch where we are advised we can buy a beer. The two skippers are really looking forward to this after such a long sail. The lunch is great but there is no beer. There is a bottle of cheap red wine available but it is not good to drink. This is all part of the poverty here, and there is very little beer or wine available anywhere. Their currency (nefka) is worthless so there is a strong black market for U.S. dollars.

A recycling centre



Spice stall at the same place

Ross and I go with Haile, the agent's driver, to the ship repair yards. They are the most wonderful, helpful, warm people here. It is a great experience to see how they set to, after many lengthy discussions in broken English, and weld a new top onto the spinnaker pole. They only charge US$5 because they are pleased to see we are so happy with their job!

Returning to the boat we stop at a mechanics shop in the new town. This is in a wide main street with wide, hard dirt pavements and very dusty. This is a lovely time of the evening to be out. There are many groups of men of all ages sitting around on chairs enjoying a relaxed chat. Now and again someone walks by with their camel. Nearby the bus to Asmara is being loaded. The large roof rack takes all the luggage, including the numerous goats.

We find dinner at the one rebuilt modern restaurant in the old town with Italian style cuisine. We are told there is no beer available, but when we stay to order dinner it suddenly appears on the table.

WEDNESDAY, 9 APRIL AND THURSDAY, 10 APRIL 2008

We take a tour to the capital, Asmara. The four of us squeeze into Haile's car. We decide the bus isn't an option, even though it would be quite an experience. Just recently other yachties tried to catch one at 6.30am. They had bought tickets but it was already full. Then the 10.30am one was the same, and they finally got the 2.30pm one, arriving in Asmara at 6.30pm.

It is a 2½ hour trip up to 2100 metres by car.

Haile is an excellent guide and his English is reasonable, so we learn a great deal. It is a wonderful drive through the desert up into the mountains through little towns. Driving through the dry and barren desert the landscape then changes as we climb. We see dried river beds, their floors covered with boulders, which will be covered with torrents of water in the rainy season. Then there are the terraced mountainsides which are for crops, e.g. maize. Some of these slopes are so steep it is difficult to imagine how they were made. There are many small huts and houses made of stone. We stop in one small village which is very colourful and buzzing. It is market time and a bus is being loaded, again with the goats tied onto the roof rack. The women here wear really brightly coloured saris - orange is popular.

Goats tied to van roof

During the trip we see camels, donkeys and cattle. In this area there are also lions, hyenas and bears. The higher we climb the greener the countryside becomes.

Donkeys are worked hard here

Asmara is a lovely town with a strong Italian influence. Some of the beautiful old buildings display this, e.g. the Opera House built in 1830 (we are shown over this by one of the actors), the old station and the Post Office and Santa Maria Church. The population here is 80% Christian. The main streets are wide and lined with palm trees. There are many jacarandas, olianders and bouganvillias out in full bloom. The restaurants have interesting local cuisine, again with Italian influence. We really enjoy the cooler climate here.

Woman walking through Asmara

We choose to have dinner in The Bluebird restaurant that serves local food. We have a dish which is served on a very large round tin dish. This is completely covered with a local bread which is very thin and of a spongy texture. It is made of Teff ( a product of the sea). It is ground and mixed with water and left to stand for 2-3 hours before being rolled out and cooked. The seafood, or lamb dish, is served in a small bowl and tipped onto the middle of the bread. You eat it in the same way as you would a chapatti - with your fingers.

SALALAH TO THE RED SEA

SALALAH TO THE RED SEA

We greatly enjoyed the time in Dubai
We spent with Augusta and Scott

The pool and the beach were the main events

And some good meals, believe it or not.



The boat repairs though were not so much fun

(Lots of telephone time and frustration)

The Oman technician arrives without parts

(not outstanding communication).


But the good news is we can sail in a group

From Salalah right to the Red Sea

It's said that Somalis attack small boats here

Though my money predicts pirate free.



With an Englishman sailing La Novia

Then Greetings from US of A

Plus Free Spirit 2 and Impulsive

Pirates won't have it all their own way.



The first day we battle some wind on the nose

But it finally comes round to the beam

We're slicing our way through a calm, sparkling sea

And we're moving along as a team.



There's a power boat looming up off our port bow

What on earth is it doing out here?

(It's at least 40 miles to the Yemeni coast)

But it passes without coming near.



With watching and sleeping and meals and jobs

The miles pass inexorably

You can stand for hours with the wind on your face

Admiring the moods of the sea.



Two unscheduled jobs interrupt the night

First one of the engine belts breaks

Then the cord at the foot of the main comes free

When will we be free of mistakes?



Now morning has dawned and we're pleased with ourselves

We've gone past a "high risk" zone

Susie had a slight scare in her middle night watch

We're glad we're not sailing alone.


But now we hear on channel 16

A coalition warship report

Of a pirate attack not 10 miles from us

Perhaps they've fled to avoid being caught.



We are all on extra alert now

We've cranked the boats up to more speed (??)
We've taken down (highly visible) sails

And we'll talk in case only of need.



Now we're seeing more tankers and cargo ships

This all seems to be a good sign

The pirates have not yet materialized

And they're fast running out of time.



As we work our way west towards Aden

A dhow makes a strange change of track

It may have been looking for lost fishing gear

But warm fancies imagine attack.



There was none, of course, and today we should make
The entrance into the Red Sea

It's busy with ships and the current runs fast

So daylight would help us to see.



We're in the Red Sea and we still have light (you little ripper)

We're doing 10 knots and all seems right

We're now looking forward to adventures at hand

Eritrea, Sudan and the Pharaoh's land.



APRIL 2008

RED SEA - MASSAWA TO SUAKIN (SUDAN)

We both have to think hard to work out the date and the day of the week for the journal. It is incredible how easy it is to lose track of these. Having so many night watches lately and waking up in a new place most days makes this difficult too.

SATURDAY, 12 APRIL 2008

We enjoy a great day and night sailing with the mainsail and headsail.

This is only dampened early on by discovering we can't find our new apple computer (which Scott gave us as a joint present), and later our digital camera and new mobile phone for making contact when we go ashore. I am woken the previous night by a loud rustling noise. I don't get up as I feel too tired to deal with a rodent (which is so unlikely as we have been at sea and at anchor for sometime), and am too frightened to think of an intruder. Ross is in a deep sleep, and we have since decided it is better he didn't get up. I can remember when I took the last photo, about 4pm yesterday, and we haven't left the boat since as we have cleared customs. So the above items and charges, including some I could still use, have gone.

All our precious photos since Phuket have gone, including those of our time with Scott and Augusta. I had the U.S.B. stick out to save them all.

This all has a numbing effect on me. Ross is marvellous how he can be positive and move on, but it takes me a while. The thought of some creepy person being on the boat is abhorrent.

We have since heard this has been happening quite regularly. The general opinion is it is the Egyptian fishermen also anchored in the port. Robbie and Phil have been marvellous and have very generously lent us a camera and given us a copy of their photos from Phuket to Massawa.

SUNDAY, 13 APRIL 200

Visit from some dolphins

We pass by the Eritrean/Sudanese border at 9.30am. Sudan is the largest country in Africa. We are advised to keep 5 n.miles off the coast for 10 n.miles south and north of the area, because of the political unrest here.

Sailing past the Eritrean/Sudanese border

It's wonderful how good news can lift one's spirits. Scott is coming to meet us at Rhodes with Augusta, and Lily. This will coincide with Heather, Paul and their Lachie, Anna and Lucinda. Life is looking exciting again. One of our highlights of the week is calling each family every Sunday. We so enjoy hearing their news. We especially like hearing the children's voices. We speak with Steve and Meg's Georgie, Sam and Sophie today.

Later in the day we catch up with the yachts we met up with in Massawa; Gone with the Wind (Liam and Annie from Sydney) and Belvenie (Amanda and Mark from N.Z.)

About this time Belvenie calls us up to say they have a fishing boat approaching them and they are preparing a pirate pack in case. However we are all visited by different fisherman in the area and they are very appreciative of drinks, Marlborough cigarettes and goodies, e.g. biscuits and sweets.

We all anchor at Shatira Island within the Khor Nawarat group.

Ross and I go in the dinghy some distance to a very small island with good snorkeling off its reef. As we walk up the beach in our snorkeling suits and carrying our flippers and goggles (imagine what we look like!) we have a most surreal experience. There, walking in front of us, is a man and his son (with their traditional clothes on) leading their camel. They get the camel to lie down and they squat next to us. They have no English but we understand they would like some food and drink. Unfortunately, we haven't any with us, not expecting to see anyone on this tiny, uninhabited island. We still don't know how they got there with the camel.

Phil and Robbie host a marvellous dinner on Free Spirit tonight for the four yachts. We have barbequed mackerel freshly caught by Liam, trolling off the back of their 52 ft. catamaran.

The following morning Ross speaks to Mark in Sydney. We have so many issues with the boat he is coming to Cyprus to give her a thorough check over and be there when the Yanmar engine is completely checked by one of their mechanics. This should stand us in good stead for the rest of the trip. We know things go wrong with yachts but when Ross lists the different problems we have encountered it is quite extensive. It is suggested you should own a boat for two years minimum before heading off on a trip like this and perhaps many of these issues are worked out before you leave. It suited us to leave well before that time frame. Anyhow, we are both very pleased with this outcome and look forward to seeing Mark soon.

We have an early morning snorkel back near the tiny island and think it is the best we have experienced. We have never seen such a dense number of fish and such a variety. Some of the coral is beautiful too.

We are thrilled to have the most wonderful sail with both sails up (one of our best ever. We average 7 kts, and up to 8kts as the breeze freshens. We sail to Long Island.

We enjoy a walk on the island along the beach. The inner lagoon area is reknown for its wader birds. The island is a low lying area covered in a shrub with pretty heather -like flowers. Ross spots a small blue spotted sting ray in the shallows on the sandy bottom.

Sunset

We host dinner on Impulsive tonight for the same four crews, which is great fun. Ross barbecues the special large coiled South African sausage Derek gave us in Phuket. Everyone brings a dish of pre-dinner nibbles or salad, and some drinks so it makes for easy entertainment and not too much stress on the supplies.

This has been a wonderful day and night, especially with this lovely warm, calm weather.

SUAKIN TO HURGHADA, EGYPT

SUAKIN TO HURGHADA, EGYPT

TUESDAY, 15 APRIL 2008



We are really enjoying this lifestyle of regular snorkeling in warm weather. It is such a special thing to do - viewing something of the wonderful life under the water. We enjoy another excellent early morning snorkel before we up-anchor and head off to Suakin.



Our agent in Suakin

Another efficient agent called Mohammad is here. He has us cleared very quickly and comes on board in his pristine white robes to finalize our papers. In no time he has the fuel organized to be delivered out to the boat in large jerry cans. This, of course, takes time but the lads are happy to work until 9pm to finish. This means we are free to leave tomorrow as the forecast is favourable again and we now have enough fuel on board to get us to Cyprus.



View across to Suakin from the anchorage

WEDNESDAY, 16 APRIL 2008



This morning we take the dinghy over to the old town. The buildings are made of coral and for many years they have been collapsing, so this area is now deserted. This was the last slave trading post in the world up until the end of World War II.



Across the causeway we amble around the market and can see many of the shack homes. The market is a wonderful spectacle with the bustle of people, vendors, donkeys and carts, and goats wandering around. We buy some of their speciality - round, flat bread rolls - and a selection of fruit and vegetables that are available. There is very little variety. We probably are unable to shop again until we reach Hurghada in about a week.



Array of spices at the market



Fruit and vege. stall

The extreme poverty here is very obvious but the people are very welcoming and friendly. Many ask to have their photo taken.



View across from anchorage

There is a small cafe at the market and by the harbour but we don't risk the hygiene here, even for experience.



Passing by the old town as we leave Suakin



Freespirit and Impulsive



Local fisherman

We clear out of customs and leave here at about 11.30am to sail to Masa Ata, another reef just south of Port Sudan. It is a clear but very narrow passage to go inside the reef. We must arrive at these anchorages in good light so we have good visibility of the reef. You cannot rely on the accuracy of the charts in these small areas.



We go to explore the large area of the shallow, mangrove lined lagoon and channels inside the reef. There is supposedly a great variety of bird life and fish here. We only hear and see a few birds but enjoy watching 5 men netting for prawns. They are wading in water up to the top of their thighs. On a floating, blown up tyre tube they have their baskets to put their catch in, and throw their large nets out as they walk along. They approach us and offer us some of their catch. We have no money or gifts for them so we return to the boat. It is just as much for the experience as for the prawns that we go back to them. It is also tricky to get into the lagoon through the reef looking into the westerly sun but well worth it.



We have a brief sunset snorkel on our way back to the boat. A small wooden fishing boat is anchored by us now. We go over to say "Hi". They are grateful for their goodies package and cigarettes. They haven't any fresh fish but offer us dried fish they have hanging across the stern of their boat. I can't imagine eating it but it looks interesting. We finish off a perfect day with dinner on Free Spirit.

SUAKIN TO HURGHADA, EGYPT - Part III

SUAKIN TO HURGHADA, EGYPT - PART III

TUESDAY, 22 APRIL 2008



We leave after checking with the scheds. During the day we have the mainsail up, motor-sailing into a 13kt. wind. It is a calmer night with a 6-8kt. wind off the beam. One feels it's great to be alive out here on a night like this.



WEDNESDAY, 23 APRIL 2008



We think Ross has a reaction to Neurofen - the same thing happened last time he took some for his back. We are fortunate to be able to contact Ian's wife Ruth on the satellite phone who is marvellous with her medical advice. Robbie happens to have the medication Ruth advises, so Free Spirit does a drop off for us as we quietly continue on our way. Fortunately, the weather stays lovely and calm. It's like sailing over beautiful clear, blue glass. We pass by the Sudan/Egyptian border early today.

These magic conditions last all the way through to Hurghada until about lunch time on Thursday. Ross is back in top form again, and we are so grateful to Ruth.

 Hurghada marina is very attractive to come into. It is new and the buildings are all in lovely terracotta colours with palm trees lining the paths.

Hurghada Marina

It is situated in the old town so we can just walk in there. The streets are buzzing with activity and very colourful with souks, fruit stalls and cotton shops. It is obviously set up for tourists with its western approach.

SUAKIN TO HURGHADA, EGYPT - Part II

SUAKIN TO HURGHADA, EGYPT - PART II

THURSDAY, 17 APRIL 2008



We leave at 6.30am this morning and hope that there is enough light to help us to be able to see our way out through the reef. We edge our way slowly out retracing our "track" in here yesterday. We plan an overnight sail to Shab Abu Fendera, another reef. This means missing Khor Shinab on the coast north of Port Sudan quoted as many yachties favourite anchorage in the Red Sea. The reasons for doing this are that there is a good weather window, so it is a good opportunity to cover a decent number of miles on our way to Hurghada, and if the strong northerlies come in we may have to stay where we are for several days. The weather has been amazingly favourable so far. Ross and I were expecting very adverse conditions after reading and hearing disturbing reports about sailing up the Red Sea, e.g. the harsh red sand storms that can last for a few days.



We pass by two large special buoys used for signals, radar transponders, beacons and lights off the large Bashaya oil terminal. Later we pass Port Sudan. It is apparently very poor and squalid because of all the unrest here, and the costs are double those in Suakin.



We plan to sail outside the reefs north to our destination. However the winds freshen to 15-16 kts, true wind from the north, and we are bashing into it quite hard. Ross is having his morning rest, preparing for night watch. Phil radios while I am out in the cockpit and I don't hear it because I turned the volume down so all the idle chatter that is happening doesn't wake Ross. Free Spirit starts to go further and further to port off our planned course. When we finally speak to Phil we decide to go to port too, to pass inside the Sangenhab reef for protection. As soon as we turn off the wind the boat settles and we can put the headsail up. This makes for a very difficult day of navigation making our way up the inside passage along the coast and avoiding the many reefs scattered throughout the area. The navionics system has whole areas just blanked out and unsurveyed. Thank goodness the C-map is operating well on the older computer (the system Scott helped Ross with a lot) and has more details.



Change of plans again. We are going to Marsa Salak on the coast overnight to avoid a difficult passage through reefs overnight, which would not be safe. This is a very tricky anchorage and requires vigilant watching as we go in through the reef. The pilot book warns that the entrance isn't very inviting, and only for "bold boats". We are coming in at 5pm (2-3 pm is the optimum time for sighting the reef), which means when we turn into the difficult, narrow passage we are looking directly to the west and straight into the sun, which makes for very poor visibility. This is where my nervous, shaky knees kick in, standing up on the bow to guide Ross in. If we hit part of the reef I will feel responsible. He cannot see it at all from the helm. At the turn of the channel the waterway isn't much wider than the boat. Just beyond here it opens out a little but the depth drops from 10m. to 2m. on the chart. Free Spirit is unable to get through, so we anchor where we are.



This is a lovely anchorage and very calm. As the sun sets we watch some fishermen wading across one of the large nearby reefs. A couple of small fishing boats come in for protection during the night.



Boats further north are experiencing strong north winds of at least 20 kts, so we decide to leave the overnight sail, and just sail 10n. miles to Taila islands. There are good anchorages here.



FRIDAY, 18 APRIL 2008



Early this morning one of the fishing boats comes over. One of the lads needs lomotil. They offer us a fresh fish in return, which is very generous of them. Ross offers to pay them but they won't accept it. They are pleased with their package of goodies though. Another small fishing boat asks Phil and Robbie for some fuel.



Young fisherman asking for medicine

After a lovely snorkel along the reef off the stern of the yacht we head off leisurely at 10am. This ensures getting to the islands in good light for anchoring.



One advantage of coming inside the reef is we are close to the coast. The land looks flat, dry, desolate and hot by the sea, and rises up to high hills behind. It is often very hazy from the heat.



The islands we anchor at are three tiny sand islands right by the coast. The sand is pristine white and the surrounding waters range in beautiful colours from pale turquoise through to very dark indigo blue. The coast here has low lying shrub growing by the sea.



This afternoon Phil and Ross re-install the track for the spinnaker pole, and the pole's new cap. it is wonderful to have everything back in good working order.



At sunset we walk around the island we are anchored off and out to the end of the sand spits either end of it. We can't believe the amazing bird life we find. There are several large birds with wing spans of about 5-6ft and they have built large, flat nests about 1m. in diameter out of sticks at ground level. There are several varieties of waders and many smaller birds.



Tonight we spend some time preparing our navigation as we have to pass through many reefs and islands. We have to sail outside the reefs again to be able to continue on our route up the coast.



Here we begin to experience the fine top layer of desert that blows onto the boat. It is also combined with heavy salt crystals that wash over the boat. This will happen all the way up the Red Sea so we just have to wipe over the cockpit etc. regularly. We'll do a major clean-up when we get to Hurghada.



SATURDAY, 

19 APRIL 2008

Early on our route today we pass close by a war ship patrolling these waters. They seem pleased to see two Australian yachts. We also sight one small town and see a car driving along the coast road. The weather is getting noticeably cooler, especially in the early mornings and evenings.



Due to the forecast of strong northerlies again we are just day sailing to Khor Shinab. The advantage of sailing inside the reef is that we can do short hops if the weather is not favourable. Boats further north are experiencing 40kt. winds at anchor, so are not venturing out. We hear this news on the scheds at 8am and 6pm each day when yachts can tune into the same HFV frequency and exchange news from one area to another. Boats are happy to relay messages if another boat is out of range. We are pleased to come to this anchorage and can see why it is a yachties favourite.



Finding the small break in the reef to come in here is difficult, but with the radar on and wearing polaroid glasses there are no problems. Once into the channel it is like being in another world. To be coming into this narrow and long channel flanked on either side by the desert with the late afternoon sun high-lighting the colours is amazing.

Knor Shinab

There are several sandpits to negotiate before anchoring in the most beautiful place surrounded by lovely waters, sand-dunes and desert. The many different shapes carved out by erosion are fascinating.



In the late afternoon we climb the nearby Quoin Hill (wedge shaped) and the 360 views are spectacular.

View from Quoin Hill

It is quite a clamber up climbing up the loose sedimentary material here.

As an extra for dinner we try some of the dried fish some fisherman gave us. Ross marinates it in lime juice and simmers it with garlic, lime juice and coriander. The larger pieces are chewy, but some of the very small pieces are very tasty.

Sunset at Khor Shinab

SUNDAY, 20 APRIL 2008



The sand dunes are all along the coast. Many seem to be in pyramid shapes. The range of higher mountains is set well back from the coast.



The 40n. miles to our next destination is straight into a 22kt. northerly. We eventually have the mainsail up and zig-zag a bit to steady the boat and save it slapping down into the waves. We are pleased to come in through the entrance to Elba Reef early afternoon.



We are surrounded by beautiful waters, including a closed lagoon. The turquoise blue here is magnificent.



What a thrill as we set off in the dinghy to snorkel on the reef, to see a large pod of 50-60 smallish dolphins come towards us. Many of them surround the dinghy and, in the clear water, you can watch them spiral up to leap out of the water. They hear us call them with a sound like theirs and they answer back.



The snorkeling is wonderful. The coral is the best we have seen, and their are many varieties of fish.



There is another yacht anchored here from Turkey, and it is rather chilling, and a good reminder, to see a huge cargo ship sitting wrecked on top of a nearby reef.



The wind abates during the evening and it is very pleasant in the cockpit under the wash of the full moonlight.



MONDAY, 21 APRIL 2008



The scheds this morning reveal that it is still blowing strongly further north, so we will stay anchored here until it drops. Neither Free Spirit or Impulsive crews want to bash into it like yesterday, especially with two overnight sails involved. Several boats ahead tried going further north last night but had to seek shelter. We plan a relaxed day on the boat and catching up on some jobs. It is very timely as Ross has strained his back and will have a chance to rest it.



Robbie drops over with some of her freshly baked bread straight out of the oven. It is still warm. What a timely treat just ready for lunch. Our fresh provisions are precious now and we have two overnight sails to Hurghada. We have plenty of food on board, but will just make it with fresh commodities. We are lucky to have such efficient fridges on board.