Impulsive Around the World

HURGADAH TO CAIRO, EGYPT

HURGADAH TO CAIRO

FRIDAY 

Friday is a holiday in Hurghada as is Saturday (similar to our Saturday and Sunday at home), so we have great difficulty in organizing a trip to Cairo and down the Nile. This is more complicated because it is the coptic Christian Easter here this weekend. We are told most hotels in Cairo are booked out and all flights to Cairo tomorrow are fully booked. We could not book this trip in advance as our estimated time of arrival was so unpredictable depending on the strong northerlies which can hold you up for days. The forecast for the next 6 or 7 days is unfavourable to continue north so this is the ideal time for us to leave the boat and venture off on this side trip.  

The Egyptian driving is quite scary. Sometimes the drivers seem high on substance e.g. with radio blaring, hands off the wheel clapping, and fast erratic driving accompanied by loud honking of the horn. It is a relief to arrive safely. One of the yacthies says he offers a higher fare if they drive slower - what a sensible idea!  

SATURDAY  

Saturday morning we have a great start to the day at a nearby beach. The rest of the day we organize the boat by cleaning the stainless steel, taking fuel on board delivered in jerry cans in a dinghy so has to be poured in slowly, and the new auto-pilot installed. Of course, the latter two begin only a couple of hours before we have to lock Impulsive to leave her for nine days, so we have a rush to the bus stop. Luckily the kind technicians for the auto-pilot drive us there or we would not have made the bus departure.  

The flights are all full today but the bus trip from Hurghada to Cairo is a great trip. It takes five hours, traveling out through Hurghada and then along the coast road seeing fishing boats, oil rigs, incompleted houses in abandoned villages which have failed financially, and closer to Cairo large resorts being built on the coast. There is also a vast wind turbine complex with thousands of these machines. The desert seems like an excellent place for these where they are not disrupting anyone. The sunset over the desert is beautiful. The bus is very modern and comfortable, and we are served a snack for dinner. Ross and I enjoy the action packed film with Bruce Willis presenting challenged reality.  

Arriving in Cairo at 9pm is such a contrast. We are suddenly hurled into the bustle of a large city and its unruly traffic. Phil does some marvellous bargaining for our traffic ride to our hotel. We have a night cap here at Harry's pub which is very pleasant with live entertainers. We are actually pleased to have a hotel room tonight as we were told they are fully booked.  

SUNDAY  

Phil and Robbie have been here before so we have a different agenda from them. Their main objective is to obtain their visas to Russia to meet friends there for a cruise.  

We are pleased to find an excellent guide (the brother of the man in the hotel bookshop). He has a doctorate of chemistry and works in an import-export business, has reasonable English, and is very knowledgeable.  

Luckily Medo is a good driver. He says that in Cairo the traffic rules for red lights mean "go", orange means "go faster", and green means "stop". Also, he says the main problem in Egypt is the parking. We soon discover this is all so true.  

We drive first to the Northern cemetery (City of the Dead). This was built for Mamluk sultans and emiris. These tombs were built so they had a room where the visitors of the dead could stay overnight. Now thousands of homeless people and refugees live here, and have done so for generations. The great problem is that Islamic rules stipulate these old tombs are not be removed.  

THE CITADEL   

It's building began in 1176 and was Egypt's seat of power for 700 years. It includes an Islamic mosque - Al Nasa Muhammad. This is monotone, simple and not a tomb. Later the Turkish Muhammad Ali Mosque was built within the fortress. Our guide refers to him as the greatest Egyptian. This is a tomb. The views from the Cidadel's western terraces are wonderful and help to give a good perspective of the city's layout. In the distance we can see the outline of some pyramids.  

ISLAMIC CAIRO  

We have lunch at Fishawis, the famous coffee house. It has been a regular place for writers and artists, e.g. the Egyptian author and Nobel Prize winner, Naguib Mahfous. The atmosphere here, in the middle of the bazaar of Khan-al-Khalili is fantastic. Many people are smoking the water pipes with the sweet smoke. Trading first began here in C14, and still today the bargaining is part of the very colourful and busy scene. Glitzy bell-dancing costumes are hanging everywhere. Wandering through these old and narrow allies is fascinating, including along the medieval walled city, through the northern gate which was the main entrance to the medieval Cairo, and by the Al-Azhar Mosque founded in 970 A.D. The sheik of this mosque is still the highest religious authority here and pronouncements from this office hold more weight than those of the government.  Medo then drives us through many back streets to shops he recommends where we can replace our camera and battery charges. This is a great relief to be able to use some of our equipment again.  

A sunset cruise on a felucca on the river Nile is a most pleasant experience, and we are full of admiration for the skipper who manages in all the river traffic and with not much wind and no motor. He certainly is very skilled.  

We meet Phil and Robbie at a restaurant near the hotel for dinner. It is in a lovely old building with lots of atmosphere, very high ceilings and interesting architecture. We have fun exchanging our days activities and ideas.

RED SEA - MASSAWA, ERITREA

RED SEA - MASSAWA, ERITREA 2

A highlight in Asmara is when we find the Santa Maria Church is closed we wander around to the side gates just to see as much as possible. A young local man talks to us and is very friendly. When he discovers we are Australian he says he has a very good friend from Australia who is supporting him and is coming to visit him soon. We are all excited to find he is a friend of ours too. This is such an amazing meeting. He speaks excellent English, as does his friend who is well educated and teaches English to grades 5-8. He explains how poor the country and economy are as the aftermath of the war. People are queuing and are rationed even for bread. Also there are huge issues with National Service. The entrance age is legally 18 but they are taking the lads as young as 15. If they are well educated it is for 6-8 years. If not, it can be for many more years, and there seems there is no control over this. He explains it as being like someone just disappearing.

We are taken in to climb the tower and enjoy the 360º view of the city, and in to see the church with it's beautiful stain glass windows. We are also invited to the family home for coffee, which would be a real treat, but we haven't time sadly as we have our long drive back to Asmara which is better to do in the light. We had a flat tyre coming up here.

Again we have to go through a checkpoint each time we go in and out to the yacht. It seems more normal now to have machine guns lying around - I guess we get used to it, even if we don't like it.

We arrive back at the boat in good time and just have a quiet catch up night with dinner on board.

This morning we leave early with Haile to buy spare fan belts. Friday is the market day here so I wander over there. Again the women are wearing their bright sari making for a colourful scene. I am conscious of being the only non-Eritrean person there. No one takes any notice as they are busy doing their own shopping. The vendors are friendly and keen to sell their produce. There is not much choice but there are a few extras to buy for Free Spirit and us. Robbie is buying the bread in the old town but she can only get 9 small rolls between us, thanks to the agent Mike. There is food rationing here too.

Then we visit the shipyard to see if they can straighten out the track up the mast that was twisted when the auto-pilot went out. This takes some time but, again, they do a magnificent job - not quite so cheap this time! I was taken into a cooled office where I could read my book and was given a welcome cup of tea. Ross enjoys watching the whole procedure and needs to explain what needs doing.

We plan to check out in time to leave to arrive at our next destination which is a reef anchorage while there is still good light to see. Checking out is a drawn out affair. The customs officer said he would be there, but by the time we took the boats up to required area, re-anchored, and Robbie and I go ashore with the papers, he has gone home for a rest. The pilot officer rings him and he says he will come back. A lovely young man makes us a cup of tea and introduces us to his mother. He tells how very few boats come into the port now. He is a qualified electrician but is working as a fork lift driver. They have no exports and can't afford imports.

Checking out

We are finally officially cleared but it is too late to leave. We plan to go first thing tomorrow morning but now we are cleared we are unable to go ashore again. The winds are favourable to venture further north up the Red Sea. Strong north winds are a great deterrent to do this.

CAIRO

CAIRO and ALEXANDRIA

MONDAY

EGYPTIAN MUSEUM AND GARDEN
  

Egyptian Museum

Hasheem, (Medo's friend) is our guide. He has excellent English and a doctorate in Egyptology so is very knowledgeable. The highlight is the Tutankhamen exhibition which must hold some of the most stunning exhibits in the world. It is such a treat to see these.  The other highlight is the sculpture of Chephren.

After several full hours here of concentration we head off to have a lengthy lunch by the river Nile. After lengthy discussions with Medo and Hasheem we have a much better idea of life and society in Cairo and Egypt (included in notes after Tuesday).  

Lunch overlooking the Nile

This afternoon we explore Coptic Cairo. This stems back to Egypt's early Christian days, about 40 A.D., before Islam was followed here. The cobble stone alleys are fascinating to walk through and it is interesting to imagine how exiled Jews found refuge here in 70A.D.  

We meet up with Phil and Robbie again for dinner at Abu el Sid. This is a well known restaurant in the Zamalek area, again near the hotel. It is within a very interesting old building and appears to have a cosy atmosphere but we are very disappointed in the cuisine and service. We have a lovely night anyway, especially as the Melletts have managed to organize their visas.  

TUESDAY  

ALEXANDRIA (North Port of Egypt to the Mediterranean)  

We are off to a 7am start to miss the traffic, especially from the children going to school. We have been so lucky the previous 2 days in not having much traffic because they were holidays. Cairo's traffic is not a good experience.  

We pass by many fertile farms which are watered by the Nile via canals. There were 7 branches of the delta once, but now there are only 2, so water could become an issue, especially as the Nile flows through Sudan first. The local farms are growing olives, watermelons and bananas. There are many pigeon houses, and the pigeons are bred to sell and to eat. There are many camels (they eat them), cows, goats, sheep and donkeys.  

Alexandria is dusty with cobbled streets and trams. Men are sitting around in and outside cafes in groups playing dominos, which is their main game here. They also enjoy back gammon and chess.  

CATACOMB  

This was found in 1900 by a man with his donkey when it fell down a hole and hurt its leg. It was built for a private tomb in C1 and became a public one C2.  

Catacomb

POMPEY'S PILLAR  

Pompeii´s Pillar

C3 or C4 B.C. It is 26.15m. high and Pompey's ashes are supposedly on the top. The 4 Scuarp (good luck symbol) statues have been moved, as have the large lion statues to more obvious positions.  

The walk through the extensive street market is similar to Petticoat Lane, Egyptian style, with hundreds of stalls selling many cheap cotton clothes and underwear. Most of the women are in traditional dress, but the children wear western clothes.  

Walking through the street market

We drive through the CARMUS area to the Roman theatre built in C1. It was found in 1960 next to the mosque which was found when digging began to build new apartments. The pillars are examples from the Roman-Greco time.

Roman Theatre

Continuing on our way we pass the new, very modern library which is very impressive, designed as a discus set in the ground, facing the Mediterranean Sea. Then the Radas' statue which is placed along the cornice. Radas tried to lead a rebellion against the British Occupation in 1882. Also, nearby, is a large memorial to the unknown soldiers lost in the 1973 war, the 6 day war against Israel.  

The fort has been built on the site of the old Pharos Lighthouse which crumbled with the earthquake some years ago. Inside is Mohammud Ali's mosque.  

The fort and view over the Mediteranean Sea

At Kadoura seafood restaurant (opened 1950) we enjoy one of the best seafood meals we have ever had. We select our own fish with our guides help. We are then served with seafood soup, followed by a selection of appertizers, eg. dips, salad, beetroot flatbread and then a magnificent platter of seafood each which has been deliciously charcoal grilled.  

The old scales the fish was weighed on

Sometime later we follow a suggested walk in one of the guide books. This includes the famous Cecil Hotel, Ramla Square, the Great Synagogue, the intriguing Constantine Cavafy Museum (the Greek poet), Cinema Metro with its amazing decor, and finishing at Pastroudi's, a Greek patisserie for a coffee. This is a haunt of Durrell's characters.  

Street scene in Alexandria

We are picked up here to return to Cairo. It is a long day, especially as we are caught in a traffic jam on the way back, but well worth it.  

EXTRA NOTES FROM DISCUSSIONS WITH OUR 2 GUIDES  (They suggest looking up: www.tour egypt@hotmail.com)  

80% of the monuments have been found by coincidence and only 20% by searching. Before A.D. Egypt just had villages. "D" = digression of the Prophet Muhammad, stands for the Prophet moving from Mecca to Medina one year after he became the prophet. Islamic history begins here, and is the beginning of the Islamic era.  

These young men are surprised we learned about Egypt at school. They think we have no idea idea about their country at all.  

They claim people are quite frightened on the streets since the end of the British occupation because they can just be taken off the streets by police for no reason, and for any length of time.  

They don't watch the news because it has been the same for 26 years, during the time of President Marabak's office.  

In government offices people work from 8am. to 2pm. (so the traffic rush hours are heaviest 7-9am. ,and 1-3pm. Many of them have another job latter in the day.  

In Cairo now 45% of women work. This is not because of a change of mind but because it is necessary economically. Economic stress has caused a 45% divorce rate (the women can't cope with a job and caring for a husband, as is expected). Secondly, the average age for men here is 45, especially in the Delta area. The cause is usually something to do with the liver, so it may be the pollution in the water. The people drink the water from the Nile river, so perhaps this is the problem. 

The doctors here are excellent but zero is spent on research. 

There are very high inflation rates in Cairo, up to 50%, with real estate being exhorbitantly expensive. Car taxes are 300%, which explains why we don't see many new cars on the road. A couple of weeks ago it was difficult to get bread here. 

We asked about authors, and Medo and Hasheem both think people feel if they write about religion they will become famous. 

The Jewish population in Egypt is now only about 3oo and most of these are in Alexandria. Both these young men support Palestine, but now just want it finished. They feel this is the general feeling in Cairo.  

In the country girls can still be married as young as 13, but in Cairo this is not accepted, and they must be 21.  

Soccer is the favourite sport here supported by 95% of the population. Hand ball and Roman wrestling are also popular. Hasheem lives near the Giza pyramids. His house backs onto the golf course. He very much enjoys being able to use the course there, even though he hasn't much spare time with a second baby on the way. His attitude towards this is so different to new dads in Australia. He doesn't think it will disrupt his life much at all as his parents-in-law will move in and help his wife. Women here are still expected to run the home totally.  

He is a reasonable golfer we gather. He has always enjoyed it and used to "run school" to do it. He says this is common here.  There are private schools available but they are very expensive.  

We realize that life isn't all that easy here and again feel so lucky to have brought up our family in Australia. The big question here in Egypt is what will happen when Mabarak finishes his term.  

They say the traditional food here is falafel (was 30 piasteres but now it costs $1). Also, rice with a special sauce, which includes onion and lemon, was $1 and is now $5. Another popular dish is musaga - aubergine, tomatoes, garlic, oil and spices (being vegetarian this is a favourite of mine: Ross' favourite meal was the seafood one in Alexandria. 

WEDNESDAY  

We have breakfast with Phil and Robbie to say "good-bye". They are returning to Free Spirit to continue on their way to meet their next commitments and travel plans. We have had a marvellous time together and shared so many experiences. Hopefully, we will meet up again in the Mediterranean. We will always remember the many occasions Phil has been able to offer us practical assistance for our many electrical and mechanical boating problems. It's also been a great help to have the benefit of Phil and Robbie's prior experience sailing through these waters in 2003.  

The news today is announcing a 30% pay rise in salaries. This is wonderful news for the people in the short-term, but who knows how the economy will suffer?  

We plan a day of rest. Later in the day we visit the Beit of Suhaymi.  

Hasheem is most distressed today. He is a young father who works very hard. When Medo took him back to his car last night after our day in Alexandria it was gone. Apparently the police took it and said it was parked illegally and he didn't have it registered. This isn't true, but he can't pick it up until the end of the week and will have to pay a huge fine. This is a regular occurrence in Cairo. 

Medo drives into the nearby Khan-al-Khalili Bazaar to park. This is an amazing experience in itself. He is concerned he will not be able to find a park anywhere nearby.

Parking in the Khan-al.Khalilli bazaar

We experience normal Cairo traffic and realize how fortunate we are to have been here for some holidays. It takes so long to travel only short distances. We wander back through the narrow alleys of the Beit-of-Suhaymi area. This area was closed off when we came to the bazaar on Sunday because of a religious festival. The Beit of Suhaymi was built as a commercial place for trade and with rooms for the traders to stay in. It's architecture is fascinating. It is now talked about as a traditional family mansion from the Mamluk period. We take the opportunity to go back to Fishawi's coffee house to just sit and watch life go by, and the antics of the buying and selling.  

We walk by the Al-Hussein mosque near the bazaar. It has descendants here of the Prophet Mahommad's grandchildren. Outside there are 3 large mechanical umbrellas worth over U.S.$100,000- each, as a gift from Saudi Arabia.  This evening we enjoy a peaceful stroll along the river bank and find a Moroccan dinner (Egyptian isn't available here), on one of the large river boats.  

THURSDAY  

We thoroughly enjoyed our stay at the Marriott Hotel in the Zamalak area. It is an old palace especially built for visiting royalty at the time of the opening for the Suez Canal in 1869. The original section of the hotel still has an imposing forecourt and lobby area. The surrounding gardens are magnificent.  

We are off to a 9am. start with Medo to visit the Giza pyramids and the Sphinx. We are so fortunate to strike yet another holiday in Cairo (Labour Day) and not get caught up in traffic. On route we drop our luggage off at the Mena Hotel at the foot of the pyramids. We have an amazing coincidence here to hear some one call us - a friend from Melbourne, Amanda Derham. We have a lovely dinner with Amanda and Mark this evening. It is always exciting to catch up with friends from home. We also see with them Tom and Sue Barrett, who are traveling in the same group in this area -what fun!  

I had always been fascinated by the pyramids, the Nile river and their associated history since learning about them at school, so it is wonderful just to soak in our experiences in these areas. 

Gisa Pyramid

The Giza pyramids are only 17kms west of Cairo. The 3 large pyramids are named after kings from 3 dynasties: Cheops, Chephern and Mycerinus. The history of the pharaoh's solar baroques (boats) is interesting. In the museum near the Khufu pyramid there is a restored one of these cedar-wood vessels. These vessels could have been used to carry the mummy of the pharaoh up to the valley temple. There was water surrounding the pyramid area in those times.  

The sphinx has a human head and the body of a lion. The enormity of these structures is overwhelming. One can't help but imagine how they were built with the teams of workman and farmers during their off seasons.  

Our visit to the "Atlantis" oils is fascinating. This is also a healing centre. Another amazing coincidence is that they have a close association with Sai Baba, a mentor of my brother, Ian.  

Lunch is a delicious kebab at a local restaurant near the sphinx.  

The Mena House Hotel was originally an old palace and then became a hunting lodge before becoming a guest house. It is a very attractive place to stay and oozing with atmosphere in the old buildings. 

RIVER NILE CRUISE

FRIDAY  

We are off to a very early start this morning to fly from Cairo to Aswan, to join the cruise ship (Tower 1 Prestige) on the Nile. We have booked this trip with three fellow sailors also in the marina in Hurghada. Unfortunately they have to change plans, but we decide to stay with this cruise anyway. It is very comfortable and is only half occupied which makes for a very relaxed time. 

We can drop our luggage on the cruiser and then have 5-6 hours to explore Aswan. Even though this is a governorate capital it is very relaxed.  

The sculpture park is large and very impressive even though its setting is very barren. These sculptures are developed here annually by artists from all around the world. 

The Sculpture Park

Unfortunately, the Cataract Hotel is closed for renovations. This is situated on the river and has lovely views across it. Apparently, it is well appointed inside, making use of its high ceilings. Instead we go up even higher to Nubian House for a coffee and watch the feluccas making their way from side to side across the river with the little wind there is. This is a lovely scene.  

View over the Nile from the coffee house

We later take a small boat across to Elephantine Island, which used to be the centre of life in Aswan. The ram headed god here was the creator of human life and god of the cataracts that controlled the water level of the Nile. We scramble over the ruins at one end of the island, which was a Christian town by the C4. There is a peaceful garden to wander through next to the museum. We have an interesting local lunch in a Nubian House, after which we are taken for a walk through the village. The houses are made of mud bricks and are usually white-washed. We pass some women coming back from the river carrying their washing in a basket on their head.  

Elephantin Is. - woman carrying washing on her head

Henna tattoos are available to have done here. This is the tradition applied to women's hands and feet, especially for weddings.  A large number of Nubians had their homes flooded in the 1930's when the level of the old Aswan Dam rose. Some moved north into Egypt and others stayed to rebuild higher up. Thirty years later a new high dam was built and they had to move again.  

View over the Nile

Back on the mainland again we have a leisurely walk along the corniche on our way back to the cruiser. There are so many cruise ships waiting here, it takes us some time to find it.  

The cruiser, Tower 1 Prestige, set off down the Nile at 4.30pm. We have a dusk visit to Kom Ombo, the main interest here being the dual temple of Sobek ( the crocodile god) and Haroeris the elder. With the lovely soft light at this time it looks very impressive where it is built by the river.

Kom Ombo - 1st. stop on the Nile

The flood lights are soon turned on and this gives another perspective again.  We are just about past guides so Ross takes over this role. It is very pleasant walking through these sites at our own pace with our guide books in hand.  

It is fun watching Ross bargaining for a local outfit to wear to the gala night on board. He knows roughly what he should pay so he just walks away if they suggest absurd prices above this. Usually, he does a deal.  

SATURDAY

We are up very early today (6am) morning to visit the Temple of Horus, the cult centre of the falcon god, at Edfu. This monument is one of the last of its kind built in Egypt. It is too far to walk so we take a local horse drawn carriage (a caleche) with all its finery, and collapsible roof.  

There are large statues of the falcon outside. Inside are the great halls, the library where they kept sacred texts, and the laboratory where recipes for perfumes and incense were kept. We walked around the passage of victory outside and viewed the wood bargue in the sanctuary.  

Temple of Horas

Returning to the cruise

Our cabin

Later that morning, back on board, we passed through the locks near Esna.

This is all done very efficiently. We arrive at Luxor at 4.30pm.  

It is a 15 minute drive into the town, which we enjoy as it is along the Nile through farm lands harvesting their sugar cane.  

THE LUXOR TEMPLE

Luxor Temple

It has huge statues of Ramses II - monuments, we think, to a large ego. There is an avenue of sphinxes, part of the avenue leading to the temple. The hieroglyphics of these places are fascinating. It amazes us there is still some of the original colour in these pictures. There are frescoes painted by the Romans C3 A.D. and a mosque in one corner of the court.  

We are now on the lookout to hire bikes. Somehow we end up in a caleche driven by a local man in his traditional dress claiming he works for the B.B.C. when they are filming here. He speaks English well and his horse and cart are in excellent condition. He drives us to the market and then literally through the narrow alley ways barely leaving room for the wheels to fit between the stalls. Of course, he takes us by a local artifact shop where we find a papyrus drawing we really like.  

Going through the market (Luxor) on horse and cart

SUNDAY  

We head off to town again in good time before it is too hot. We have tracked down bikes to hire. After more bargaining along the Corniche we take a small, colourful motor boat across to the West Bank.

Taking bikes across the Nile

We plan to follow the bike tour in one of our guide books up to the Valley of the Kings. It is lovely in the cool of the morning riding by the fields where they are harvesting sugar cane and wheat.

Local farm land

Next is the Colossi of Memmon. The twin figures here are all that remain of one of Egypt's greatest temples. The outer halls and courts were regularly flooded as they were built in low lying plains. Now we slowly start to climb and leave the cultivated land behind us. Next we venture into the Ramesseum, built by Ramses II.

Ramasseum

This was built to make this the greatest monument of all time by Ramses II . These monuments are now ruins with not much left in tact. Ramses II statue has fallen and they claim it weighs 1,000 tons. It was the largest freestanding statue built in this country. We have difficulty imagining how they shipped this stone block 240km from the quarries in Aswan.  

Our next stop is at the tombs of the nobles, set among the painted houses of the village of Gurna. We scramble up dry and dusty paths to 2 tombs. There are still scenes painted on the walls of these ancient tombs depicting the everyday lifestyle of Egypt 4,500 years ago. We visit the tombs of Sennefer and Rekhmire. These are said to be the highlights of the area. The ceiling of the former is incredible and so clever giving a 3 dimensional look about the vines and bunches of grapes painted across it.  

Tombs of the Nobles

It is starting to get hot so we decide to give Howard Carter's house a miss (where he lived to search for an unrobbed tomb, e.g. Tutankhamen) and start pedaling for another 2.5 kms to the Valley of the Kings. This is a slow climb and through very dry landscape. I am just starting to think this wasn't such a good idea and that it is the longest 2.5kms I ever knew when a local taxi driver offers me a lift. I explain I didn't have any money but he says he is going there anyway. We soon catch up to Ross who is surprised to see me, plus the bike in the car. However, he decides to join me for the short distance. It was worth every Egyptian pound we give him!  

Valley of the Kings

We visit several tombs at the Valley of the Kings. We cannot help but wonder how these tombs were built, or found, in this arid, rocky terrain.  

1. TOMB OF TUTHMOSE III:

Claimed to be one of Egypt's greatest pharaohs (1479-1425B.C.) This is situated high up in the limestone cliffs, at the far end of the valley. You climb up stairs for 30m and then down through a narrow corridor cut out in the rock.  

2. TOMB OF RAMSES III:

(Tomb of the Harpists and one of the most famous Egyptian wall paintings). The wall paintings in the upper chambers are important, not for their quality, but for the subject matter of their everyday life then. We walk past the site of Tutankhamen's tomb.  

Our taxi driver has waited for us. We had been looking forward to the ride back down the hill but, in the heat of the day, we decide the car is the better option. We hear later the temperature today reached 39º.  

We have lunch in a small cafe opposite Medinat Habu. This is claimed to be the best preserved monument on the West Bank. It was built as a power base for Ramses III, the last of the great pharaohs. Apparently, it has over 7,000 sq.kms of decorated surfaces with many of the original painted surfaces still visible. They had used the primary colours. Figures and hieroglyphs are cut deep into the stone here.  

Tonight we have our last dinner on the cruiser. Tonight's entertainment is a belly dancer (not so memorable) and a dervish dancer, i.e. a male dancer with his dizziness defying twirls in his colourful skirts. We have enjoyed these few days very much. It is very dreamy and relaxing to sit or lie up on the deck and just watch as we drift past the shores of the Nile. Not being responsible for the yacht is a lovely break too. Tower 1 is well serviced and they are very attentive. Twice we stayed ashore for lunch and came back to find some in our room. The first time we went ashore not knowing we should hand in our key they were quite anxious to know when we returned.  

We have dinner on several occasions with a Scottish couple. We hope to catch up with them again. There is also a tour group from Australia on board which is fun. 

MONDAY  

Temple of Karnak

This morning we leave early to visit the temples of Karnak, which were built on a gigantic scale, but mostly in ruins now. As you walk around you can sense the enormity of this place and the grandness it once held as the heart of Thebes when it was the capital of Egypt.(1550-1069 B.C.).  

From here we take a caleche ride back along the Corniche looking for a ride on a felouka. Unfortunately, there is no wind so we have our last experience on the Nile River in a small local motor boat. This is followed by a drink at the Winter Palace which was built in the 1880s in Victorian style. Unfortunately, the new additions detract from this grand old building but the original interior still holds a special charm.  

We drive back to Tower 1 via the first cataract. We are picked up from here to travel in a limo in police convoy back to Hurghada.

Traveling in convoy beside the Nile

FAVOURITE RECIPE THIS LEG: A NEW EXPERIENCE

FAVOURITE RECIPE THIS LEG -A NEW EXPERIENCE

Coiled South African Sausage. This is a large, coiled traditional sausage about 14" in diameter. Ross cooks it slowly over a hot barbecue. It seems to rise up as it cooks. It tastes slightly spicy.

Serve with:

Potato salad
Robbie's bacon and cabbage salad
Greek salad
Mustard

HURGADAH TO PORT SUEZ

Convoy to Hurghada

Lunch break scenes

We pass through fertile land fed by canals of the Nile as we leave Luxor. There is great activity with sugar cane in these areas, including trains carting it away. Then the landscape changes to dry, arid desert. Some hours later as we get nearer the coast the landscape changes again to rocky and then steep, rocky mountains. As we come out of this we can see the coast and are soon back in Hurghada. Our driver hasn't been here since he lived here 2 years ago, so we spend some time finding the marina which is new.  

The driving of this trip is extraordinary. Every driver wants to be in the lead behind the first police truck and constantly vie for this position. Our driver is at the front for the second leg and this is fine until other vehicles try to break in. He then tries not to let them. It seems very dangerous when cars or trucks are coming in the opposite direction. One car finally did pull in ahead of us when waved in by the police. At the end of the convoy our car and the other driver are pulled over. Our driver is free to go but the other driver is detained for his erratic driving.  

It takes some time to organize customs today (they did come by last night when we're looking for dinner). Also, only a few at the marina spoke decent English which didn't help. (We are always conscious of the fact we are unable to speak their language. We have bought a small Egyptian phrase and etiquette book but we never have it with us when we most need it.) We are finally free to leave at 1.30pm. We motor out into the Straits of Gubai and into the Gulf of Suez.  

At 5.30pm we have another 18n.miles to go to our planned destination, but with the 20 kts. of wind on the nose and not being able to arrive until after dark we drop anchor at Bluff Pt. on the very small Gubal Is. It has sand dunes over a rock base and a lighthouse. There are several up-market dive boats here and another yacht. There is an excellent wall dive here. We are a bit fussy now after snorkeling in the warmer, pristine waters further south, especially with this strong wind. 

 Ross changes the fuel filters here. He's becoming a bit of a natural.  

The forecasts are inconsistent. Instead of the forecast minimal winds during the night they come up to 25kts. so we are pleased we anchored when we did. We leave Bluff Pt. at midday when the winds have dropped to 15-20 kts. and we are supposed to have the current with us by 2pm.  The forecast is for the winds to drop this afternoon and then be minimal through to Friday, so we plan to do the overnight sail to Port Suez. So far these forecasts have not been correct: now the winds are up to 23 kts. and we are not quite straight into it. We have the mainsail up to steady the boat. The waterway is not very wide here and we can see land on each side.  

There are many oil rigs, and cargo ships in the traffic separation zone.  

We cross to the east side of this zone as several people have advised us this is more protected. We have steeper waves as we cross. Now we are passing by the coast of Sinai Peninsular. There is a very hazy outlook over a desolate and harsh landscape with sand dunes rising up to rocky, razor backed mountains. This is sound advice as the wind drops 2 hours later back to 18kts. and the waves subside to half a meter. We have dinner watching a soft sunset over the Sinai coast.

It is now more rocky and rugged down to the sea with very few signs of habitation. There seem to be just a few outposts associated with the oil rigs. Looking across to the west coast we can see many more oil rigs and their flares, especially now it is getting darker.   

This is the coast line we traveled along in the bus to Cairo.  

We have a most unpleasant night. The wind comes up again and we are slapping into it. Then the radar and chart plotter go out at 2am. So much for this fancy, expensive equipment! This may be a well respected company but we are not impressed at all. Luckily with the time difference Ross can contact Mark in Sydney. Ross is able to ascertain it is the scanner that is the problem and is able to get the chart plotter going again. It is now 2.30am. so we have until daybreak to run without the radar.  Fortunately, we have passed most of the rigs marked on the chart and can still travel just outside the shipping channel.  

HURGHADA TO PORT SUEZ

The drive back to Hurghada in the convoy is fascinating. They do 3 of these trips a day. We had at least 50 vehicles in our convoy which is usual. It is very well organized, leaving on time and having an organized break in the middle of the trip. We pass through fertile land fed by canals of the Nile as we leave Luxor. There is great activity with sugar cane in these areas, including trains carting it away. Then the landscape changes to dry, arid desert. Some hours later as we get nearer the coast the landscape changes again to rocky and then steep, rocky mountains. As we come out of this we can see the coast and are soon back in Hurghada. Our driver hasn't been here since he lived here 2 years ago, so we spend some time finding the marina which is new.

At 5.30pm we have another 18n.miles to go to our planned destination, but with the 20 kts of wind on the nose and not being able to arrive until after dark we drop anchor at Bluff Pt. on the very small Gubal Is. It has sand dunes over a rock base and a lighthouse. There are several up-market dive boats here and another yacht. There is an excellent wall dive here. We are a bit fussy now after snorkeling in the warmer, pristine waters further south, especially with this strong wind.

Ross changes the fuel filters here. He's becoming a bit of a natural.

The forecasts are inconsistent. Instead of the forecast minimal winds during the night they come up to 25kts so we are pleased we anchored when we did. We leave Bluff Pt. at midday when the winds have dropped to 15-20 kts and we are supposed to have the current with us by 2pm.

The forecast is for the winds to drop this afternoon and then be minimal through to Friday, so we plan to do the overnight sail to Port Suez. So far these forecasts have not been correct: now the winds are up to 23 kts and we are not quite straight into it. We have the mainsail up to steady the boat. The waterway is not very wide here and we can see land on each side.

There are many oil rigs, and cargo ships in the traffic separation zone.

We cross to the east side of this zone as several people have advised us this is more protected. We have steeper waves as we cross. Now we are passing by the coast of Sinai Peninsular. This a very hazy outlook over a desolate and harsh landscape, with sand dunes rising up to rocky, razor backed mountains. This is sound advice as the wind drops 2 hours later back to 18kts and the waves subside to half a meter. We have dinner watching a soft sunset over the Sinai coast.

It is now more rocky and rugged down to the sea with very few signs of habitation. There seem to just a few outposts associated with the oil rigs. Looking across to the west coast we can see many more oil rigs and their flares, especially now as it's getting darker. This is the coastline we traveled along in the bus to Cairo.

We have a most unpleasant night. The wind comes up again and we are slapping into it. Then the radar and chart plotter go out at 2am. So much for this fancy, expensive equipment! This may be a well respected company but we are not impressed at all. Luckily, with the time difference Ross can contact Mark in Sydney. Ross is able to ascertain it is the scanner that is the problem and is able to get the chart plotter going again. It is now 2.30am. so we have until daybreak to run without the radar. Fortunately, we have passed most of the rigs marked on the chart and can still travel just outside the shipping channel.

Port Suez:

It is lovely to be welcomed by the agent here, and then tied up safely, early the following day. We spend a quiet time getting organized, including Ross going up the mast to check that the scanner isn't just stuck somehow. Then we slept for 2 hours.

The yacht club here is small. We are situated right by a minaret for the calling. We just tune out now, but we won't miss it when we leave Egypt.

The agent, Captain Heebi, is very efficient and friendly. This afternoon he turns up with an amazing bunch of flowers for us. He spends time with Ross sorting out the computer. They work out it is the 12 v. adaptor that isn't working. He fortunately has a car going to Cairo this afternoon so may be able to get us a new one in time.

Baksheech is a real problem here. Several others are continually coming to the boat asking to do helpful things and openly asking for baksheech. One of them just comes to sit on the boat and settles in. We made the mistake in accepting his offer to bring fresh bread in the morning.

It is very exciting to be travelling along the Suez Canal. We are now forthright in saying we need a rest and ask him to leave.

We go ashore for dinner . We are warned there isn't much there but one of the security men tells us about a local place which has seafood. It is a tiny little cafe but very good. There has been excitement here today because the actor Omar Shariff is in town for a film production.

The following day Captain Heebi organizes to have the yacht measured so we can pay to go through the Suez Canal. He is also able to organize the Ray Marine men to come and check the radar. The weather forecast is very poor so we won't plan to leave until Sunday. There is nothing to do at Port Suez so we have a relaxed day and catch up with odd jobs on the yacht.

Friday is a holiday so the Ray Marine men choose to come at 7.30pm. They are the same 2 who came to us at Hurghada, plus a computer expert. They are extremely obliging since they come from Pt. Said which is nearly a 3 hour drive. They ask Ross to go up the mast and bring the scanner down. He goes up but is unable to unplug it in the dark, even with the torch. He has to lower the bosun's chair down for one of their guys to go up and help. This is very dangerous as the man they send up is heavy and as Ross holds the scanner for him - he is not supported anywhere especially when this guy reaches out for support from Ross. It is also very cold up there and they are there for some time. This has all been caused by a faulty installation. It wasn't wired correctly and an earth wire has been left exposed so made contact with some metal up in the scanner and caused it to fuse out. They rewired it and all is working well again.

Actually, it just had to be taped correctly.

During this exercise we have a call from Phil. They have just arrived in Turkey and he says the forecast up through the Med. is good. This is the opposite to what our agent is saying , which is very strange. We decide to take Phil's advice and at least begin our trip up the canal. We have to take a pilot on board to do this so one is booked for the morning.

We watch many cargo ships go up the canal. Depending on their size they can pay up to $u.s.1,000,000- to do this.

We have to move Impulsive very early this morning to catch the tide and be ready to leave at 10am. It will be low tide at that time and it is very shallow by the jetty.

The Canadian yacht on the other side of the jetty had an unpleasant experience. They had engine problems and requested a tow which wasn't very far and were charged $U.S.15,000- by the Egyptian navy. Somehow they had this reduced to $U.S.7,500- but it is still exorbitant.

Our pilot comes on board at 10am. The computer part has just arrived apparently so he is happy to wait for 15 minutes while Capt. Heebi brings it out to us. We are so grateful for his assistance while we have been here.

Our departure is a little late so the pilot puts the boat into full throttle. The reason is the army wants to put up the bridges further along the canal. There are these temporary bridges at different intervals along the way.

It is very exciting to be traveling along the Suez Canal when one thinks of how it was built and its history.

Our pilot is very competent, and easy to have on board. I seem to have been making endless cups of tea and coffee for people who have been on board lately, and he is no exception. He likes to have 6 teaspoons of sugar. They all request lots of sugar. We have noticed the Egyptians have dental problems - it's no wonder. Many of the obviously poorer people have teeth missing so maybe dentistry is very expensive here.

PORT SUEZ

It is lovely to be welcomed by the agent and then tied up safely. We get ourselves organized to check that the rotating arm on the scanner is not just stuck.

The agent is Captain Heebie. He is very helpful and puts us in touch with the Raymarine people in Port Said. There is a yacht tied up on the other side of the jetty which has had a terrible experience. It had engine problems and asked if somebody might give it a tow to Port Suez. The Egyptian navy turned up and towed it instead to Shamel Sheik. This was unnecessary because they could have sailed there. They were then presented with a bill for US$15,000 and told if it was not paid the boat would be impounded.

There is a bad forecast according to Captain Heebie so we will stay until Sunday. We have to get the boat measured to go through the Suez Canal. We are actually pleased to stay put and organize the boat. There is not much to do so we enjoy just being on the boat. The Raymarine people from Port Said (the same ones that came to Hurghada) arrived this evening. Ross has to go up the mast again to the scanner.

This involves some danger because he has to give the Raymarine man the bosun’s chair and ends up standing on the spreader, not tied on, for quite a long time in a cold wind. The fault is in the installation. It is not wired correctly and an earth wire is exposed and makes contact with a metal part in the scanner causing it to short out.

Phil calls. They have just arrived in Turkey. He says the forecast up through the Mediterranean is good. This is different from what the agent says (all very strange). So we decide to go tomorrow morning. We have to move Impulsive early because of the tide.

We have computer problems in that the 12 volt adaptor is not working. Luckily Captain Heebie has a car going to Cairo and thinks he can find a replacement.

We watch huge cargo ships go past. They are said to pay up to US$1 million to go through the Canal.

The new adaptor arrives at the last minute. The pilot is happy to wait for a few minutes. This makes our departure a little late and so the pilot asks for top speed from Impulsive in order to get past a point in the Canal where the army wants to put a bridge across the river. Luckily we make it before the Canal is blocked.

Chart plotter displaying our route through the Suez Canal

The pilot taking us through the canal

The army´s mobile bridge

ISMAILIA

We arrive here at about 5.00 pm. Five years ago it is apparently not worth stopping. The marina is now up to international standard and the city is very attractive. Our pilot helps us tie up (bow to) and then we head into the town. A man we meet in the street generously drives us to the Internet Café. We have success there and then a memorable meal of calamari on a hotplate at Melanie’s. We get back to the boat and Ross checks the belts, only to find that the lug on the main alternator that receives the bolt which goes through the tensioning device for the belts has broken off. Yet another problem to fix.

SUNDAY, 11 MAY 2008

We have an extra day in Ismailia because coalition warships are using the Canal to the exclusion of small boats. We are actually quite pleased because we find Ismailia attractive. We walk about the town. There are wide streets with trees and palms. There is also a pleasant promenade along the canal. In addition, Ross comes up with a solution to the belt tensioning problem which he is quite pleased about. (It survives the subsequent voyage to Cyrprus which he is even more pleased about).

Jury-rigged alternator belt

MONDAY, 12 MAY 2008

The pilot comes on board at 5.45pm and we set off at a good speed with a favourable current. We pass sand dunes, palm trees, bridges, army lookouts and service canal stations. The pilot wants us to call into the stations. We decline. The Red Sea pilot warns that the purpose is likely to be to provide baksheesh opportunity for the friends of the pilot at the station. Baksheesh is a major cultural problem here we think. In fact, we have an unpleasant finale with the pilot who wants to be paid far more than the going rate, claims a further present of cigarettes for the pilot boat that picks him up and claims he needs extra because he will have to return to the stations and supply them with cigarettes.

This all leaves a bad taste in the mouth. The handout mentality so seems so ingrained and pervasive that one is tempted to say that the society has lost any sense of pride.

Port Said is large and busy with cargo ships and ferries everywhere. A number of yachts comes in from the north as we leave. We “pop out” into the Mediterranean Sea. It is actually an unpleasant sea initially. The waves are short and steep and confused and we bang and slap into them. The forecast is off the mark. Making an omelet is a challenge. From midnight on the conditions are more like the forecast and an early morning things have calmed down. We enjoy a good sail and then a shower looking out the porthole to the blue Mediterranean Sea.

Just when it is time to prepare dinner the wind drops off, the swell comes up on the beam and we roll all over the place. But we enjoy dinner watching our first Mediterranean sunset.

We arrive in Larnaca too late to go to the marina, so we anchor just outside. There is only about a quarter of a moon coming in but it is still helpful seeing where to go. It is calm here so we look forward to a good night’s sleep. We sit up and have a glass of Pinot and a plate of cheese to celebrate arriving at Cyprus. It is very exciting to be in the Mediterranean and we are looking forward to our adventures and experiences here.

There are problems in Lebanon and on the way in to Larnaca we hear many radio calls between coalition warships and other boats. Also, there is a constant stream of helicopters flying into and out of Larnaca airport, presumably stocking coalition warships. We discover the next day that there is a problem with refugees being brought into the Larnaca marina. We also discover that reporters are apparently prepared to pay yachties US$10,000 to take them to Lebanon because they can’t otherwise get access to the country.

WEDNESDAY, 14 MAY 2008

After coming into the marina this morning we have a surprise visit from another couple, Jill and David Henry, sailing on their Buizen. We look forward to having a drink on their boat tonight. We end up in a wonderful café full of atmosphere, the art gallery and Café 1900.

We immediately notice the change in dress. For example, the young women walking around in bathers, scantily dressed and we also notice the easy availability of alcohol. This is an expensive place. A cup of coffee/tea, 2 rolls and salad cost US$20. However, there is no baksheesh.

This is a busy marina, short of space partly because a dozen boats in a Levant rally have over-stayed their intended time because of the problems in Lebanon. We move from the outside basin section (which is exposed to the east) and tie up at a pontoon. There is no power or water here but it is more secure. Andreus agrees to come on board and start the generator to keep the fridges going.

The weather has become cooler on the crossing to Cyprus. We needed wind-proof jackets to keep warm (as well as dry). Here we have to get a blanket out for the first time since we left Australia. This makes for good sleeping.

I am interested in an article in the Cyprus paper concerning women in Saudi Arabia beginning to question the limits placed upon them. We have both just read “Infidel” and I am looking forward to the book review discussion on it when we get back to Melbourne.