Passage from the Marquesas to the Society islands (Papeete,
Tahiti)
Wednesday 30th. May
Today is Lily´s birthday. We are disappointed not to be able to contact her before we
leave. Sometimes it is difficult with the time differences and especially
during the week.
The skipper now has quite a challenge on his hands to take
us a daunting 780 n.miles to Papeete without using the motor. We need to try to
keep its use for coming in when we arrive there. We can´t rely on a propeller
with only one of three blades. When you look at it under the water it certainly
doesn´t look very substantial to propel a boat of this weight (15 tonnes). Also
we are concerned this blade may come off too.
The first issue is winching up the anchor. The bay is very
calm this morning with winds forecast to come in this afternoon. Apparently
there can be a large swell here and high winds funneling down through the high
mountain peaks. We decide to winch up the anchor while it is still calm and
hope once we are out to sea the forecast winds don´t take too long to come in.
We use the motor on the lowest revs to motor up to the anchor to winch it in.
We know the end of the anchor chain is around a huge rock. We are anchored near
a Swedish yacht with three young men on board, one of whom is Australian. He
dives with Ross when they first arrive to check both the boats are safely
anchored in this poor holding. It is a relief when it comes straight up and we
can head out to sea.
The 14-17 kt. winds from the east came up at about 1530
hours, and even more so when we passed the lee of the island and its headland.
This forecast should hold for several days and we are averaging 5.8 kts. At
times it is rolly.
Bruce is advising us to come south of 13 S so we are past
the convergence zone before it comes in next Saturday. With this forecast we
should be able to do this.
Unfortunately the winds will drop out after this for several
days so we are trying to organize if there is
some way to come into the Tuomotos, which are on our route to Papeete.
The problem is their surrounding reefs and strong tidal currents. We may need a
tow.
We are disappointed with this change of plans to track to Papeete
but we have no choice in the matter. There is nowhere else available to take
Impulsive out of the water to have the propeller fixed. The only positive
thought is that we hopefully can get there and have the repairs done in time
for our next friends to arrive to meet them in Papeete.
On a lighter note we have the bread baking in the oven and
it is a lovely day out here, sunny, warm and calm.
We are sailing with the identical headsails on the starboard
side. Later Ross poles them both out to this same side. We can hold this
setting for several days and nights.
The seas are relatively calm but are rolly at times. We
experience a couple of minor squalls which are mainly inconvenient because of
the lull in the winds after they pass through. With the squall on Thursday
night we tracked at 8 kts. for a while which boosted up our average.
With the lighter winds it would be good to fly the spinnaker
but unfortunately there are too many fluctuating winds with no warning. Also
there is too much east in the winds to goosewing with the two headsails.
There is a large low to our SW which is the cause of the
weakening trade winds and so the reason we need to stop at the Tuomotos if
possible until they pick up again.
We are in touch with Phil Mellett who came into the Tuomotos
last year. We are very grateful he can give us a contact there, Xavier. On
Friday evening we are relieved to hear from Xavier who is able to organize
Impulsive a tow in through the reef. It would be very difficult to flop around
in the middle of the Pacific Ocean with no wind for a few days.
On board life goes on as usual with the night watch routine.
It is sometimes difficult to have a sensible rest during the day but we have to
so we are able to cope with our broken sleep at night. We estimate with this
forecast it will take us four nights to reach the Tuomotos. We have a major
problem with our propeller but are still able to enjoy cruising in the Pacific
Ocean. It certainly is peaceful out here. Tonight is wonderfully calm but we
need more wind to keep up our speed average. The almost full moon in the star
filled sky is shedding a lovely light over the sea.
Ross has been tuning into a 7am morning sched. that Selwyn
and Joanne introduced us to. It has been helpful with different and useful
information coming through. It´s good to know there are boats near our
vicinity.
It puts a different perspective on sailing when we no longer
have a reliable motor to rely on. Ross always tries to sail Impulsive to her
best ability in the conditions available but now this is even more important
without the use of the engine. He takes advantage of all possible wind
available.
From the very early hours on Saturday morning the winds drop
right out, about 18 hours before they were forecast to, and we are averaging
only 2 kts. This is very disappointing and frustrating especially as we have a
tow in place for 10 a.m. Sunday morning if we can be there. We are not
expecting the winds to pick up with the current forecast, apart from some ESE
to easterly winds we may pick up at 13-18 kts. just for several hours. It is
lovely being out here on such a gorgeous hot and balmy day but we need more
wind. We really enjoy cruising but we do like to maintain a reasonable average
speed which normally we can do by using the motor to motor sail.
Just on dusk Ross notices the starboard headsail sheet is
badly chaffed. Fortunately we just have time to replace it before dark. Also
the boat speed picks up with a bit more wind and we feel we are making some
progress again. We had winds of 5-8 kts.
from the N.E. and now they are 9-11 kts. from NNE to EWE giving us an increased
boat speed of 3-3.5 kts. We are hoping to arrive for a tow for entry into
Manihi through the reef on Monday morning at the optimal time for the tide and
current. There are no squalls tonight.
Sunday 3rd. June
It is rather depressing to wake up this morning to find the
winds have dropped out again and we are lucky to make 3 kts. of speed. At least
we are going in the right direction!
The wind is now N to N.E. and so not filling the sail
properly on the starboard side so we pole it out to port.
With our very slow progress and the weather report we will
probably have to track straight to Papeete. We will not be able to arrive at
the pass in the reef into Mahini at a
suitable time for the tide and current.
It is confirmed that we are able to be towed in, which is a great
relief. (We have also requested a tow in for as far as someone would be willing
to come to pick us up, but no-one is prepared to do this).
Also we would like to be in Papeete when Prue and Bob
arrive. This trip could take another week.
Provisioning could become an interesting question. We
haven¨t shopped since the Galapagos Islands four weeks ago. I am very grateful
for all the advice, especially from Robbie, to stock up the freezer in Curacao
particularly, and then in Colon. We still have enough bases for meals in there
to get to Papeete.
Thank goodness for the wonderful supplies of fresh fruit
from Fatu Hiva.
We have supplies of a great variety of cans of fruit and
veges; pastas, rice, risotto; dried fruits; long life milk and juices; muesli
and dried biscuits. Also vacuum packed cheeses (still some Dutch ones from
Curacao) and cold meats; eggs, olives and nuts. We have some dried foods if we
need them.
With the water maker we can always have fresh water to
drink.
Once we accept this is how it is, it becomes easy to again
relax into this simpler way of life style, apart from dealing with Impulsive, and
enjoy it. With the calm seas and lots of time we get out the art equipment.
There are many inspiring scenes from the Galapagos and Fatu Hiva to try to
capture.
Fortunately we have many good books on board and on the
I-pad. Ross has just read John Grisham´s “The King of Torts” and was
disappointed with it, but is now enjoying re-reading “Death on the Nile”. I
have just read “Nothing to Envy”, as has Ross. It is well written and gives an
incredible insight into North Korea. I
also read “When God was a Rabbit” which
is an excellent read. Again it is lovely to have the time to read so much. We
never have this time at home.
A friend has lent us the series of “the Tudors” to watch.
This is a very powerful presentation which we enjoy watching whenever we can.
Later in the afternoon we pole the headsail out to he
starboard side again because the wind comes round to the east and slightly
south of this at one stage.
At 6pm. we suddenly have beautiful sailing at 6 kts. with
the boat heeling and not rolling. We don´t need a tow at this stage after all,
just patience.
Tonight we experience several benign squalls with winds from
18-20 kts. with short and heavy showers of rain. If these squalls bring more
wind we are happy to cope with them. The full moon is out which makes a huge
difference because we can see the dark clouds coming as well as seeing them on
the radar. During the quieter times it is lovely to hear the water lapping over
the stern swim platform.
A huge cargo ship passes close by at midnight. It is the
only boat we have seen out here. It gives me quite a start because with all the
clutter centred around our position on the radar screen it wasn´t identifiable.
It just proves you have to go out to the cockpit regularly to have a proper
look for other vessels.
Monday 4th. June
Today is overcast which is unusual. We bring the sail in to
end to end the headsail sheet because it is chaffing at the pole end of it.
Simultaneously the wind drops out, and what there is of it is 8 kts. on the
nose. We are becalmed! This is a very frustrating predicament , and
dispiriting, because we are simply bobbing around in the ocean not going
anywhere but tending to drift very slowly in a N.W. direction. Our course is
S.W.
Our position is 27 n.miles from Mahini so Ross mails Xavier
, and our agent in Papeete, requesting a tow. Again the forecast is not
favourable, and with mostly light winds. We must also consider the atolls and
reefs S.W. of here, because we cannot
rely on the motor. On this passage so far we have only used it very briefly on
low revs to furl the sails and reset the spinnaker pole so that we hold our
course.
Xavier replies that no-one is willing to tow us. We haven´t
had an answer from the other agent yet.
Showing the problems we have holding our course on the chart plotter
Now through this area our bearing is 215 degrees to Papeete.
We are taking a course of 190 degrees to deal with the weather forecast and our
tracking into Papeete. Ross has cancelled our request for a tow except to bring
Impulsive into the dock.
For this section of our tracking it is very fortunate having
the full moon shining above us giving light over the sky and the ocean. It
makes night watch so much easier, and cheerier, being able to see out, rather
than being surrounded by pitch black dark which can be rather eerie, even
though the radar is so reliable. It is lovely to see the sail easily too.
Tonight I have the most wonderful and exhilarating sails
during night watch with winds up to 25 kts, with no squalls. Our spirits are
lifted again and we are now thinking positively about our ETA in Papeete. Also
we have received the re-assuring news that the propeller parts have arrived in
Papeete. We are always conscious of our plans with Prue and Bob and hope to set
sail with them as planned, or at the most one day late because of the weekend.
Tuesday 5th. June
We have 145 n.miles to go. After this morning´s weather
report from Bruce we are tracking directly to Papeete. The headsail is
thwacking so it is poled out. Ross needs to replace a screw in the beak of the
pole. With the motor on its lowest revs we are making nearly 4 kts. so must
have a favourable current today.
The forecast is we still have a soft patch of wind to pass
through when the winds will die off in the next 12 hours. From 1000 hours until
2300 hours we have a very calm and relaxing day and evening with 8-10 kts. of
wind from NNE to N, making 3.5 kts. to the WPT.
Then there are 4 hours of a thundery system with the wind
all over the place but mostly in the SW, just lolling all over the place. Our track on the computer screen shows us going in very direction so not at all productive for 4 hours - 11pm to 3am. Ross has had a very busy night watch.
We bring the pole in at 0200 hours and then just have the headsail out to allow
for more maneuvreability with the sail. Then the wind settles into the SE and will
hopefully stay with us to the WPT at Papeete, now 90 n. miles to track.
Wednesday 6th. June
Wednesday 6th. June
Finally at 3am. the winds we have been waiting for from Bruce´s forecast come up to 22kts. SE to SSE and we are "tearing along". There are several
patches of heavy rain with the radar covered with yellow. These don´t produce
much wind and its not particularly gusty.
Later the 2-3 metre seas become bigger and confused with a
short chop. With an increase of our speed up to 8 kts. Ross lets the sail out a
bit to reduce it to 7kts. The wind stays up all day in this direction so we have a wonderful, if not slightly hair-raising sail to within 5 n.miles of our destination. I have never been so excited to see land when we can see the wonderful outline of Tahiti ahead of us. Frustratingly the wind drops out in the lee of the island and we are unable to reach our final weypoint before dark. At least we have seen the coastline in the daylight and as it gets dark lights come on along the shore line. We decide to come into Venus Bay about 4 n.miles north of Papeete Port to drop the anchor. It is pitch black dark as we turn in around the reef but just as we do the magnificent full moon rises to light up the area.
The relief of finally being safely anchored is fantastic. This passage has been an enormous challenge for both of us so we thoroughly enjoy sitting quietly in the cockpit for a while with a drink. Going to bed knowing we don´t have to get up for night watch is also a treat.
Thursday 7th. June
Waking up in Venus Cove is a delight with the tall Tahitian mountains as the backdrop.
We are supposed to meet our agent this morning but are unable to contact him and are still waiting for his mobile phone details. We need to be in Papeete port so decide to head off. I am very concerned we are doing this without a tow even though the conditions are calm with no wind and the sea is like glass. To hire a tug boat is $1000.00 per hour so Ross wants to try doing it with minimum revs. I am very apprehensive but the skipper is right - we can do it even though it takes us several hours.
We decide to go in through the Tanua pass planning to tie up at the city dock as Laurent the agent had suggested. However to do this we have to pass under a bridge which is a much lower height than our navionics chart shows and there is no way we can fit under this with our mast. We turn around and are feeling very frustrated because there can be quite a current coming in through the second pass and we are not willing to try this. Just as we are wondering what our next move will be we discover we are right outside the marine haul out where Impulsive has to be taken out of the water to have the new propellor parts fitted. There happens to be a large barge here so we tie up to that and Ross goes in by dinghy to see what we can arrange.
It happens to be my birthday and all I can wish for is to get the propellor working again preferably sooner rather than later. It would be wonderful to continue with our trip as planned and not to let down our friends and family who are planning to join us during the next few weeks.
With the odd difficulties put in our path this wish begins to be fulfilled. Ross can call the agent from here and he is immediately very supportive. After much discussion and because Impulsive is there and ready to go they lift her straight out of the water on the understanding Laurent will go to the airport to clear the new parts from customs and be back by 2.30pm. The idea is hopefully to leave the boat in the sling when they lift her out, repair the propellor and put her back in the water before the men finish work for the day. It all sounds too good to be true! And of course it is.
While we are waiting for Impulsive to be lifted out after the lunch break Ross and I have a lovely simple lunch in a local small thatch-roofed cafe. We are lucky to find this delightful place as we are in the hub of the port and industrial zone.
Impulsive is lifted out and the propellor is inspected by the mechanic. The axle stubs that hold the blades have been damaged so the threads have to be re-machined. As well a vital part (the bearing cap) isn´t included so we need to have that made as well. This means great problems for the space in the yard but fortunately they finally decide to leave Impulsive out of the water. The parts are not available here and will have to be flown in which is a minimum of 5 days. This is looking disastrous for our plans with Prue and Bob.
We also find the 3rd blade is use and could have fallen off soon. The cause for the problems with the propellor are till not definite.
We are both now exhausted. We walk into town to find somewhere for dinner. We find a low key place down near the water at the harbour. On the way back we are confronted by a closed very high steel grid security gate which has trouble getting me over.
A lovely man, Bernard is the previous owner of this business. He now seems to work here as an overseer. He takes a great interest in our problems and seems to scoop Ross up under his wing. He takes him to have the threads re- machined and to have new bearing caps made all within the day on Friday. Unfortunately for us the haul-out business closes at 2.30 pm on Fridays so the plan is for the mechanic to finish the re-fitting and to have Impulsive put back in the water on Monday morning, first thing.
If this works out we can set off with Prue and Bob as planned, and will be very grateful to the many people who have helped us along our way.
Nothing else can be done over the weekend so we decide to take an Rand R at the Intercontinental resort. We have a real relax and catch up on some sleep, see some traditional dancing and enjoy some excellent cuisine.
We spend several hours on Saturday back on Impulsive washing off the salt, dealing with some rust spots, cleaning the interior and Ross makes a trip to the chandlery. On Sunday we do a big supermarket shop at Carrfor so on Monday morning we just need to go to the market once the fridges can be turned on again. We need the boat in the water to do this.
The new Propellor
The relief of finally being safely anchored is fantastic. This passage has been an enormous challenge for both of us so we thoroughly enjoy sitting quietly in the cockpit for a while with a drink. Going to bed knowing we don´t have to get up for night watch is also a treat.
Thursday 7th. June
Waking up in Venus Cove is a delight with the tall Tahitian mountains as the backdrop.
Venus Bay
Coming into Papeete
The bridge that is too low for us to pass under
It happens to be my birthday and all I can wish for is to get the propellor working again preferably sooner rather than later. It would be wonderful to continue with our trip as planned and not to let down our friends and family who are planning to join us during the next few weeks.With the odd difficulties put in our path this wish begins to be fulfilled. Ross can call the agent from here and he is immediately very supportive. After much discussion and because Impulsive is there and ready to go they lift her straight out of the water on the understanding Laurent will go to the airport to clear the new parts from customs and be back by 2.30pm. The idea is hopefully to leave the boat in the sling when they lift her out, repair the propellor and put her back in the water before the men finish work for the day. It all sounds too good to be true! And of course it is.
While we are waiting for Impulsive to be lifted out after the lunch break Ross and I have a lovely simple lunch in a local small thatch-roofed cafe. We are lucky to find this delightful place as we are in the hub of the port and industrial zone.
Impulsive is lifted out and the propellor is inspected by the mechanic. The axle stubs that hold the blades have been damaged so the threads have to be re-machined. As well a vital part (the bearing cap) isn´t included so we need to have that made as well. This means great problems for the space in the yard but fortunately they finally decide to leave Impulsive out of the water. The parts are not available here and will have to be flown in which is a minimum of 5 days. This is looking disastrous for our plans with Prue and Bob.
We also find the 3rd blade is use and could have fallen off soon. The cause for the problems with the propellor are till not definite.
We are both now exhausted. We walk into town to find somewhere for dinner. We find a low key place down near the water at the harbour. On the way back we are confronted by a closed very high steel grid security gate which has trouble getting me over.
What a birthday! We have to sleep on the boat on the hard stand to make sure we are there at 7am in the morning for the mechanic.
If this works out we can set off with Prue and Bob as planned, and will be very grateful to the many people who have helped us along our way.
Dancing at the Intercontinental Resort
We spend several hours on Saturday back on Impulsive washing off the salt, dealing with some rust spots, cleaning the interior and Ross makes a trip to the chandlery. On Sunday we do a big supermarket shop at Carrfor so on Monday morning we just need to go to the market once the fridges can be turned on again. We need the boat in the water to do this.
The new Propellor
Favourite recipe this leg:
(improvised) Salad nicoise:
Canned tuna
Finely chopped cabbage (instead of lettuce) – still fresh
Roasted red peppers – from a jar
Bean salad mix – canned
Bean sprouts – canned
Diced baby potatoes – canned
Corn - canned
Goats cheese – vacuum packed
Dressing - vinegarette and fresh lime juice
Boiled eggs – place on the top of the salad
This salad was fine to eat, easy to prepare and to wash up.
