THE CARIBBEAN
The Caribbean Islands are made up of the Greater and Lesser Antilles Islands which lie in an arc between the Atlantic Ocean and the Caribbean Sea.
The Arawaks were living here when Columbus arrived. They refused colonization or to be slaves. There is a site at Grenada where people jumped to their deaths off the cliffs rather than being slaves.
Years of colonization followed and the British and French fought over these islands i.e. from Grenada to Matinique . It is a chilling fact that slaves were bought from Africa to work in the large plantations.
After slavery was abolished the former slaves set up their own way of life, usually farming or fishing. Now with the intermingling influences of these people and their traditions there is a very interesting culture with happy, friendly people living here.
Another great advantage of traveling here is that most people speak english.
Barbados
5th. Feb.
We have a busy morning preparing to set sail again. The gas bottle is filled which is a great relief. We finish provisioning which seems simple after the Atlantic crossing one; planting up some basil and parsley; and many loads of washing.
Provisioning in Speightstown
Seaside restaurant at SpeightstownThe problem of the master battery is finally solved. The temperature sensor isn´t operating, so there wasn´t enough voltage. Ross has taken it out and all is working well. This part just needs to be replaced.
I have a final swim looking for turtles. Apparently one followed me and put its head up and I missed it. Scott saw one when he was swimming here yesterday.
We thoroughly enjoyed our few days in Barbados. Everyone has been very friendly, warm and welcoming, and helpful.
We set off at 1130 hours for Grenada, an overnight sail. The conditions are lumpy with a following wind, and not much of it. We just have 1/3 of the mainsail up.
During the night a new moon appears in the sky.
We are expected to have a flag for each of the individual countries in the Caribbean and realize we haven´t one for Grenada. It is not good form to arrive without the host country´s flag flying so we make one. Ross painted it appropriately with our gouache paints and it and it looks very smart for our arrival. (The only problem is there is heavy rain the night we arrive and all the colour runs out. This is very disappointing, especially as we then have to buy one just for 2 more days).
Night watch is a struggle tonight, especially as for some reason we didn´t have a sound sleep the previous night (probably because we drank coffee which I haven´t drunk for years - the local cafe doesn´t have decaf and it seemed like a good idea at the time).
Grenada.
Prickly BayAfter checking in we moor on a buoy at Prickly Bay marina. Every island we go to in the Caribbean we have to check in and check out with all its associated paperwork. They say they want to unify it one day, like in the Mediterranean, which will make life much simpler.
Sunday 6th. Feb
We arrive at Prickly Bay marina at 1130 hours and tie up to a buoy, hoping for a good night´s sleep. After sorting out customs and blowing up the dinghy (we stowed it away for the crossing), we had a long sleep.
This evening we take a long dinghy ride up to the northern arm of the bay to a recommended restaurant on the water´s edge, de Big Fish. Unfortunately it´s closed, but we return to the marina for dinner to find a very lively night where there is a very enthusiastic crowd watching The Superbowl Final.
Monday 7th. Feb
Today is Independence Day here, and a public holiday. This adds to the general atmosphere as we drive around the island because people are celebrating in all the small towns. Many are dressed in their national colours of red, green and yellow. Also many of the cars are exhibiting the national flags and houses are decorated appropriately.
There is a parade from St. George´s town to the Queen´s Park national stadium, the centre of more celebrations. This is an example of the re-building that has taken place here since the devastation caused by the hurricane in 2004.
Driving through the rain forest
Driving n.east we pass through a really lush rain forest , through the Grand Etang Forest Reserve. Near here we walk into the Severn Sisters Falls. Much of this trail passes over private property and then through tropical areas of forest. There are numerous tropical flowers along the path. We have a young guide for part of the way who is very informative.
Hiking into Severn Sisters Falls
Tropical flowers
Severn Sisters FallsDriving east to Grenville on the coast we then travel north to the Belmont Estate for lunch. Here spices, especially nutmeg, and organic cocoa beans are grown.
Belmont Estate
Road leading away from Belmont Estate
Driving down the Atlantic coast
a typical shanty
Looking between the shanties
A modern more up-market house in the area
Road leading away from Belmont Estate
Driving down the Atlantic coast
a typical shanty
Looking between the shanties
A modern more up-market house in the areaDriving back down this coast we pass by many shanties, often on stilts, which are built right by the water´s edge. Set higher up with great sea views are many more well appointed homes. There is quite a contrast between these buildings.
Further south we call into la Sagesse Beach. It very busy with many locals enjoying their holiday as well as guests staying at the resort here. We meet an interesting artist here who is producing Caribbean inspired art called "movements".
Sargesse beach
Young cricketer on the beach
Ross is always looking out for a game of cricket to watch. Still he has no luck.
Tuesday 8th. Feb
We have a morning getting organized. Ross takes advantage of having the hire car
and goes to the very well equipped chandlery here, via the P.O. which is some distance from the marina. We are still endeavoring to send the grandchildren a post card each week and it seems more difficult in this part of the world, firstly to find the cards and secondly to buy the stamps.
I spend the time on the computer in the marina office where there is an excellent connection.
Late morning we head off for a short motor-sail to anchor just off the Grand Anse. From here there is a great view across to St. Georges town, the capital of the island.
St. Georgestown - with flags flying to celebrate Independence Day
Georgestown with its interesting architecture
It is very attractive here with its horse-shoe harbour surrounded by steep hills which are often in cloud. In fact, since we have been at Grenada Is. we have had many heavy downpours. We welcome most of them because they wash down the boat and clear the air of humidity. Apparently it is usually very dry here at this time of the year so we are lucky to see it so green.
St. Georgestown - with flags flying to celebrate Independence Day
Georgestown with its interesting architectureWe take a dinghy ride into the yacht club to check out ready to leave this island in the morning. All this paper work does seem unnecessary. Ross is pleased when this customs officer says we needn´t worry about it with our next stop at Carriacou.
We chat to a lovely young local woman at the bar who has a wealth of information about the area. She explains times are difficult now and it is difficult to find a good job even though she is a trained teacher and artist.
We take the dinghy over to the Careenage which follows around the harbour and have dinner at the Nutmeg restaurant which was just recommended to us. It is sad we have to worry about it but Ross is pleased we can tie the dinghy up just outside where we can keep an eye on it.
Ross re-parking the dinghy
Sunset view across Georgestown Harbour
One of the many large cruises operating in the Caribbean - leaving Georgestown
Our dear friends from U.K.who were to join us shortly have just had disasterous news from home , so sadly they have returned home today cutting short their holiday in Florida and then some time on Impulsive. We are so sorry, and we will miss them.Wednesday 9th. Feb. - CARRIACOU
Early morning we dinghy over to the lovely long stretch of Grand Anse Bay beach and enjoy a very refreshing swim.
Sailing up the west coast of GrenadaWe up anchor at 1045 hours for a 5 hour sail to Carriacou. We sail up the very attractive west coast of Grenada, seeing mountainous lush green forests, some of which we drove through 2 days ago. With both sails up, variable winds and speeds we soon turn N.E. towards Carriacou. This becomes a very willing sail as the E to N.E. winds increase up to 25 kts. and our heading should be 45 degrees, so Ross decides to hand steer.
We enjoy seeing other boats out here. We actually call by one that seems to be difficulty.In fact they have broken their forestay and their headsail is somehow twisted badly and caught up under the yacht.They say they are fine , and after tying the sail down safely they will motor back into port. There are still a few hours of daylight left.
Tyrell BayThursday 10th. Feb.
We now feel we are slipping into the Caribbean cruising way of life. We are certainly enjoying it and the wonderful relaxation that comes with it just sailing from one island to the next each day, and without much distance between them.
This morning we catch a local bus into Hillsborough , the capital here. The bus is a small van which seats about 12 people. We especially enjoy seeing the beautiful looking little children with their large, dark eyes full of expression and the little girls with their hair braided.
Hillsborough´s main street runs parallel to the sea so you have glimpses of the water as you walk down it. Patti´s deli is the highlight in a small two storey shingled building. We buy a few local goods from the fresh food stalls but very little from the supermarket which has limited stocks. There is a very efficient internet connection here.
Leaving Tyrell BayThis afternoon we sail out to Sandy Is. which is a sand spit with a low lying atol surrounded by magnificent clear waters of exquisite blue and turquoise colours. Just the perfect spot for a swim. It is a bit rough to snorkel unfortunately.
Sandy island
Petit St.Vincent
Petit St. Vincent is a magnificent anchorage, even though it is a little windy. Again we are surrounded by the most beautiful waters. The resort here is very attractive and we decide to try to book there for dinner. The dress code for men is long pants, so just on dark we go in on the dinghy virtually in our undies and change on the small jetty there. Our clothes would have been quite wet otherwise as the sea is choppy. It is well worth the effort as the dinner is very good in a lovely setting ( Ross wonders where his lamb is from and whether it is the best choice!)
Leaving Petit St. Vincent
Friday 11th. Feb.
We start the day with a walk along the beach and a swim before we set off across the Martinique Channel to Union Island. Enroute we pass by the tiny Morpion Islet which has one locally made palm-thatched sun-umbrella on it. It is too rough to anchor here but is quite a sight in the middle of the ocean.
Morpion Island
Union Island
The sail across here is lovely, even though it is brief, with just the headsail up, making 6.8 kts. Coming into Union Island is a beautiful sight with this small, colourful town of Clifton set below tall rugged mountains. Again the waters here are stunning, especially where we moor right on the edge of a surrounding reef. The gradations of blues and torquoises are amazing. During lunch we are entertained by an expert kitesurfing who is skimming along the waters just inside the reef.
Kitesurfer
Visit from a boat boy
Bar off the ReefSeveral young men call by in their dinghys offering different services. One actually has our second bottle filled with gas and delivers it back to the boat! How easy is that after all the difficulties we have encountered with this, even though Ross says it is the most expensive gas we have ever paid for. Also the dinghy motor has been playing up, even though it was serviced before the crossing. We are fortunate someone can check it as it is now late on Friday afternoon. Apparently the carburettor was blocked. Now it is running smoothly again.
Ashore everyone is very friendly and we enjoy the walking about the colourful town, especially the bright and well presented market stalls around the village green.
Market stalls at the village green
The yacht club
Lobster is very reasonably priced here so we treat ourselves to one for dinner at the Bougainville restaurant . How delicious!
Lobster dinner
Saturday 12 th. Feb.
We wake up to very heavy rain this morning. It is very timely for washing down the boat which was covered in salt from all the spray yesterday. One of the young guys is doing a bagel order run. He says if there is a rainbow before 0700 hours there will be rain in the morning. This proves to be true.
Provisioning now is limited mainly just with fresh local produce. The tomatoes and pineapples are especially good quality. There is one small yachties gourmet shop here where we find a few goodies eg fetta cheese and dark bread.
The heavy rain and winds up to 26 kts. have set in so we decide to stay where we are and enjoy relaxing on Impulsive, reading and listening to music and painting.it is a good break from the boat to go ashore later to use the internet and have dinner at the yacht club which is very attractive.
Sunday 13th.Feb.
We track just with the motor 5 n.miles across to Tobago Cays.This is a magnificent place to stay for a few days with its idyllic setting and beautiful clear turquoise waters.
Tobago Cays
We have visits from the young local men in their long boats offering a fresh bagette delivery in the morning; fresh fish, including lobster, and a barb-e-que on the beach.
Later we hear a knocking on the boat. It is great to find it is Steve, a fellow Australian. He has snorkeled over from his boat, "Gone Troppo" to make contact. We catch up with he and his wife, Gail, tomorrow. They try the fresh banana bread we have delivered this morning, which is delicious. They have been sailing for 10 years and have certainly seen and experienced a great deal, including a terrible experience with some pirates from Yemen.
Late this afternoon we have a beautiful swim with the turtles. The turtles take very little notice of us as they glide along and occasionally rise up to the surface to take some air and have a quick look around before diving down again to feed on the grass on the sandy sea bed.
We walk over the small island here and are fascinated by the iguana, the large prehistoric looking lizard with spiny crest along its back.
It is lovely to have dinner on board while we are anchored out here. The barb-e-que on the beach is the only other option as there is nothing here but the natural surroundings. it is very peaceful.
Monday 14th. Feb.
The day begins with the bagette delivery.
Bagette deliveryUnfortunately it is another day of squalls and heavy rain. Luckily we are here for a few days so we can choose when we venture outside.
We dinghy over to Petit Bateau Island to have a walk, including to the top of the island where the view back over the Tobago Cays and the anchorage is wonderful. there is excellent snorkeling right off the beach. While on this excursion we meet 2 couples from Woodstock, New York. They are great fun and also very interesting.
We are excited to see another Australian boat anchored closeby so call by to say hello. They actually invite us to join them for "Happy Hour" but somehow the day gets away from us and we miss it. During a calm spell here we change over the bimini for the new one we had made in Phuket.
Tuesday 15th. Feb.
We are pleased to have another bagette drop off this morning.
Snorkeling out on the inner edge of the Horseshoe Reef is another lovely experience. We have seen some turtles near the boat over the last few days.
We have a great surprise when we are back on the yacht. We have a visit from another Australian,Liam from Gone with the Wind whose boat we had dinner on in the Red Sea. He and his wife, Annie had caught some fish and had generously shared it with us and the Melletts and the other couple sailing with them.
Liam from "Gone with the Wind"
Mayreau
Mayreau
It is only a few n.miles across to Mayeau island. Arriving at this very small island is just how you might imagine approaching an island in the Caribbean, anchoring in a horse shoe-shaped bay overlooking with a spit of land lined with palm trees and a beautiful beach. On shore are local women selling their brightly coloured t-shirts and sarongs.
Walking ashore we walk through to the windward side and have fun watching a guy kitesurfing with a grand 5 masted schooner just setting sail in the background.
Walking up the very steep hill to the village we are joined by 3 young local children. The older girl, aged about 9 ( she tells me she is 20 and nearly 21!) asks Ross to carry her heavy dish with shopping for their dinner. The 2 younger ones, a girl with braided hair and a boy, are very cute and great fun. I carry the boy´s bag of fresh conch for him.
3 young local children
The original Catholic Church in the village
The views back across to Tobago Cays are great and it is also interesting to see all the reefs in this area. We have sailed by a lot of them.
Local reefs looking back to Tobago Cays
View over Mayreau harbour
Tonight we climb back up this hill to one of the very few restaurants here, "Dennis´Hideaway" for dinner. The local chef/owner is a contact of the 2 coupes we met from New York so we join them here for a wonderful dinner. Walking back down and returning to the yacht later under the filling moon is lovely on this perfect night.
Dinner at Dennis´Hide-AwayWed. 16th. Feb. - MUSTIQUE
Today we have what Ross claims is our worst day´s sailing ever. He is an unhappy skipper as we a terrible slog motoring with the mainsail up straight into the wind N. of E. Sometimes the S:O.G. is as low as 3 kts. It took us about 5 hours to make 18 kts. To cap it all off you are expected to use buoys in Britannia Bay and they are all occupied.
But here our luck changes. The anchorage is very protected and the marina officer who comes by in his run-a-bout is very happy for us to anchor close in buy the large goods ferry. This proves to be the perfect spot as we have been warned about unpleasant swell here and we have none. Also this ferry isn´t leaving until 0730 hours tomorrow. It gives us excellent protection during the night, still with no swell. I do worry we are swinging too close to it but Ross assures me all is well, as it is.
Britannia Bay - with Basil bar
Britannia Bay
Shops and a cafe on shore at Britannia Bay
Britannia Bay
Shops and a cafe on shore at Britannia Bay
After such a disappointing day we have the most wonderful night. We have a drink at the waterside Basil Bar and like it so much we book there for dinner. Then we walk up the steep hill to the well known Firefly restaurant to try a fruit cocktail looking over the bay and shore line below. It is fun to try some of the different cocktails here. The ones with the local rum are typical in the area. eg. "Big Bamboo" has banana, white rum, cocoanut and Grenadene.
Life is certainly looking better now and the skipper is relaxed again. (He had mentioned we would only stay at this anchorage for 1/2 an hour because he had been told how bad the swell can be here).
Sunset , overlooking Britannia Bay
Impulsive anchored in Britannia Bay
Impulsive anchored in Britannia Bay
A delicious dinner and dancing to a wonderful local band caps off the night.
Thursday 17th. Feb -MUSTIQUE
We hire a local moped (like a golf buggy) for 1/2 a day. Ross has to obtain another driver´s license for this exercise. We need to leave this anchorage just before 1500 hours to be out of the way when the ferry returns at 1500 hours, and also to reach our next destination in daylight.
It doesn´t take long to drive around this very small and beautiful island with its lush green hills, and beautiful beaches. Also there are some interesting houses, and mansions , of the rich and famous here, including Princess Margaret.
The local primary school - everything is well manicured here
The rugged east coast
The east coast
Exploring in the moped
The rugged east coast
The rugged east coast
The east coast
Exploring in the moped
The rugged east coastThe east coast is rugged and scenic. Pasture Bay is an example of this but you are not allowed to swim here because of the strong currents. At one point here we have to stop for a small land tortoise in the middle of the road. We get lost several times on these small, unmarked roads.
Macaroni BayMacaroni Bay is exquisite with its white sands and turqoise waters rolling into shore. We meet up with another American family here who helped us with directions yesterday. The grandparents have bought some of their children and their families for a sailing trip here. Lucky them! They are very interesting to chat to, and know this area very well. They say how unusual this unsettled weather is for this time of the year. Last year at this time they were suffering a drought here.
The Old Cotton HouseWe cross over to the island´s n.e. coast to Plantation Bay to the old Cotton House and it´s beach-side cafe by its white sands. This area is quite stunning and the establishment is happy for you to use their facilities as long as you buy a drink. A simple long, slow lunch here is perfect.
The seaside cafe by the sea at the old Cotton House
The motor-sail across to Bequia is very pleasant averaging 6.7kts. with the headsail out. S.O.G. is 8kts. through the channel at the south end of Bequia. We anchor in Princess Margaret Bay which is very calm and unspoiled.
Ashore at Bequia we walk around the attractive seafront with bright local vendor stalls selling local products, and past many cafes and restaurants , to Port Elizabeth in Admiralty Bay. We arrive at Customs as a young woman in uniform is leaving. She is leaving 15 minutes early so offers to go back in and "check us out" when we explain we would like to leave early the following morning. We are very grateful especially as she is able to forward us on to "Immigration".
The local market here sells a good range of local products. All the stall holders are friendly but we go in to buy tomatoes and cucumbers, and before we knew it we have more supplies than we can carry. The stall holders are generous in that they encourage you to buy something from all their colleagues as well. Also Ross is skeptical how all the sums are done. Our funds in EC dollars are low so we have to reduce our items.
The only building on Princess Margaret Bay is a restaurant tucked away in the northern corner of the beach. We go in here in the dinghy under a now full moon.
The seafood here is excellent, and fresh.
Only 2 tables away we recognize the Australian accent. This couple had seen our Australian flag in Prickly Bay and had come over to visit us on Impulsive but couln´t find us , so it is lovely to catch up now.
Friday 18th Feb. - BEQUIA to St. LUCIA (start of the Windward Islands)
The young American family anchored off our stern want to leave at 0630 hours today but have forgotten to check out so have to wait until they go ashore at 0830 hours when customs will be open. All this paper work can be tedious and time consuming to keep on top of it. Also this family need to leave early to arrive at their destination before dark.
We go ashore for an early morning walk and swim, which is always a good start to the day before a long sail. We set off at 0730 hours calling by "Gone Troppo" to say our good-byes. By chance we anchored quite close to them.
Another Australian skipper rows over late yesterday afternoon. He knows this area well and has some very relevant information for us. Firstly we are still deciding whether to visit St-Vincent Island. He decides it for us when he says " he looked down the barrel of a gun there." Apparently there are drug dealings happening there. Secondly he advises us to track up the leeward side of this island because the strong current in Bequia Channel to cross to the west coast would be against us. We have a great sail across here to the east coast with both sails up and averaging 8 kts.
A schooner we pass by enroute
It is a shame we don´t feel happy to go ashore on St-Vincent´s Island. Seeing the shore from the sea is lovely with its high mountains dropping down to the sea, with the palm trees and lush green foliage and protected anchorages. It certainly looks inviting. We pass by Walilabu Bay where the film "The Pirates of the Caribbean" was set.
Passing by the N.W. tip of the island we are crossing the Caribbean Sea on our way to St. Lucia. The wind is just N. of E. We hope it stays this way for our 30 n.miles ahead. What a great sail! The wind dropped out a bit but then came round to the east, closer to our beam so we sailed across averaging 6.8 kts.
Arriving at St. Lucia - Deux Pitons
We moor just off Soufriere.
Fruit offerings from a local boat boy
Outskirts of Soufriere
Bay between the deux Pitons
Outskirts of Soufriere
Bay between the deux Pitons
We take a dinghy ride later back to the bay between the 2 towering Pitons, which are part of the old volcano. (We just missed the last of the few moorings here). We have a lovely dinner at the Jalousie Plantation resort, followed by wonderful music and dancing. The gardens here are stunning. These places dont seem to mind us just coming in and enjoying their facilities.
We find Soufriere (meaning sulphur in the air) rather sad and depressing even though its has beautiful surrounding areas of tropical rainforest, fertile volcanic soil with all its lush growth, views of the Deux Pitons and the crystal clear turquoise waters nearby. It seems to be a very poor and dirty town where we felt it might be risky to eat. This is possibly made worse with the signs of still recovering from the hurricane last year when 9 local lives were lost. There is a lot of rebuilding happening and the huge mud slips along the roads are still being repaired. The main problem with the hurricane was the amount of rain water, rather than the wind.
We are warned to lock the yacht, our dinghy and its engine. The crime rate is high here, and related to drugs as with the rest of the island.
We happen to be here on Saturday, their market day, which is colourful. The locals speak Patois, which is their local french.
Soufriere
We hoped to avoid the issue of a visa into St. Lucia until we get up to Rodney Bay where it is apparently much less hassle. Unfortunately the authorities are unable to give us more time than the night and 1/2 a day they already have. This involves checking in at customs and then a 40 minute taxi ride to the airport to be granted our visas, and back again. (at a cost of $US 140-!). It was an interesting drive through the lush rainforest , looking out for the famous St. Lucia parrots, seeing many of the "flame of the forest" trees in full bloom, and then down onto the flatter land. The main industry here is agriculture, primarily with bananas many of which are exported to the U.K. Many of the young work in the growing hotel industry.
We track 71/2 n.miles north to Marigot Bay. This is the postcard bay it is described as with its white sandy spit lined with cocoanut palms and surrounded by mangroves. It is so protected it offers excellent cyclone protection.
We track 71/2 n.miles north to Marigot Bay. This is the postcard bay it is described as with its white sandy spit lined with cocoanut palms and surrounded by mangroves. It is so protected it offers excellent cyclone protection.
Marigot Bay
Inside the lagoonWe enjoy going ashore from our mooring to see the super yachts here, and having a wonderful dinner at the well recommended "Forest Hideaway" restaurant with its jazz music and singer.
the Hideaway Restaurant
Looking across to the marina from our mooring
Ross up the mast - taking down the old reflector to replace it
Sunday 20th. Feb. - Rodney Bay
This morning we are very excited to track about 7 n.miles up to Rodney Bay marina where we are catching up with my old school friend Helen, and her husband Theo, who have established a boutique hotel, Cap Maison, here. The boutique hotel turns into an elegant resort and we are very well entertained.
This morning we are very excited to track about 7 n.miles up to Rodney Bay marina where we are catching up with my old school friend Helen, and her husband Theo, who have established a boutique hotel, Cap Maison, here. The boutique hotel turns into an elegant resort and we are very well entertained.
The beach at the hotel
One of the many plants in the beautiful gardens here
Walking through the Hotel
Waiting to cross to the viewing platform
St. Lucia sunset from the platform
Sunset birthday celebrations
Sunset
One of the many plants in the beautiful gardens here
Walking through the Hotel
Waiting to cross to the viewing platform
St. Lucia sunset from the platform
Sunset birthday celebrations
SunsetMonday 21st. Feb
This morning is the beginning of getting everything ship-shape on Impulsive again, especially as this is an excellent marina for having repairs done, and it has a well equipped chandlery. We have planned to allow time here for this.
We are placed in a berth next to another Australian yacht and not far away is a yacht with an Australian skipper with his french wife. We enjoy their company very much. It is great to compare notes with them and they both have helpful suggestions.
We are having a week sharing a slice of Helen and Theo´s life which is a wonderful experience. Included in this time is Theo´s birthday which is a great celebration, especially as their 3 sons and their families can be here with them.
Tuesday is a public holiday here for Independence Day. Helen includes us in a large beach barb-e-que party. This is such a colourful scene with the beach packed with the local families, many of the children romping in the sea and playing on the beach with their dark skin glistening in the sun. Ross is disappointed there is no cricket game, just football.
Helen takes me shopping one day so we know where to go to provision. Also she introduces me to her hairdresser who Ross and I need to make an appointment with. Having this local knowledge is invaluable.
We are introduced to another english couple who have been coming here for 4 months for the last 5 years. They have become very involved with the community and help raising money for different charities here. eg post hurricane issues and the local primary school. Selling a local cook book has been very successful; golf days and dinners have all helped. We are sorry we can´t help them with the large junior rally next week. They were hoping we could be a mother ship which would involve taking a sailor and his/her coach across to Matinique on Impulsive and they would stay on her for the duration of the rally. It would be great fun too with the welcoming and farewelling ceremonies.
Ross zip-lining out of the forest
The zip-lining team
Another day we hire bikes and ride out to Pigeon Island to the National Park where we walk up top the top of Rodney´s Fort. This used to be the base for the British navy. While enjoying the marvelous 360 degree views here we meet up with another Australian family. We hope to see them later in our travels.
RIding back through the small coastal fishing village of Gros Islet at dusk we feel slightly uncomfortable. I am pleased Ross has waited for me.
Theo and I managed to fit in some very enjoyable golf on the beautiful, but challenging course here. There are many water hazards!
The walk around Pointe du Cap on the n.east coast gives a panoramic view along the spectacular rugged coast line including cacti growing wildly.
On the way back we meet up with Helen, Theo and family on the Cotton Bay resort beach, and Ross finally has his game of cricket. This is great fun and with all our different passports we can say it is a game between U.K., West Indies and Australia!
Dinner on Impulsive - Adam, Gracie and Freyer
Helen and Rufus
We have numerous memorable dinners together during our stay here, including one on Impulsive.
We congratulate Helen and Theo on their resort. We can see all their attention to detail, and the whole project is extra special as they have their 3 sons involved as well.
Boating issues at St. Lucia
Ross organized :
Silicon spray on bolt rope
visa for U.S. Virgin islands
new radar reflector
cable in for new temperature sensor for the battery
replaced anchor chain link
changed engine oil and filters
transfer stripe - with help of our Aussie neighbour who is an expert at this
Help with:
repairing the foot of the sail
refitting the mainsail cord for the main clew
Cleaning the ceiling lining throughout the interior
MARTINIQUE
Since 1946 Martinique has been an overseas department of France. It is largely mountainous, with many beautiful beaches. Mt. Pelee is an active volcano. Tourism is the basis of its economy.
On Monday 28th. February, with Impulsive ship-shape, we leave Rodney Bay , St. Lucia for Martinique with Helen, Theo and their son Adam on board. Helen and Theo have a tight schedule so we are lucky the forecast is suitable for the crossing.
This crossing is only about 20 n.miles but it becomes a very difficult sail. Firstly we need to put the repaired sail up and the wind is very changeable so it is a challenge to keep the boat heading into the wind to do this well.
Adam at the helm
Helen and Theo on board
To add to our difficulties the wind is very strong and changeable coming into Martinique which makes getting the mainsail down again very difficult. Also there are many fishing buoys in this area. We are very grateful to have Adam´s crewing expertise and experience on this leg.This whole exercise takes us 7 hours. We tie up to a mooring at 4pm. and Ross takes Adam out in the dinghy to find a taxi to catch his 5.15 pm connecting flight home to London. We half expect to see him join us for dinner tonight but thankfully he makes it in time.(We hear from Helen later a friend of hers had the worst day´s sailing this same day and was whited out crossing from Grenada)
Ross finds the parochialism very strong here with the french. He has to fill in the customs form on the computer. St. Lucia is not even on the drop down list and you can actually see it from here. When he types it in it doesn´t come up because he writes it in the english form and not the french.
Now we can relax again.
After a pre-dinner nap we head off with Helen and Theo to Cap Est resort and restaurant. It is on the east coast near Baie du Simon. Going ashore in a new place is time consuming sometimes, especially in the dark. First we need to find a safe place to leave the dinghy and then we needed to find a taxi.
Cap Est is one of their competitors so it is an excellent opportunity for them to see how this place is run. It is interesting for Ross and me to see how they go about appraising these places. We all enjoyed the french cuisine here very much. This is a lovely outing, and is quite a late night by the time we return to Impulsive.
Today we hire a car for some exploring. Our first stop is at the delightful seaside village of St. Annes. Here we spend time at the market, sample accras, the local delicious fish cakes and have coffee by the turquoise sea. Anse des Salines is a very popular long stretch of beach nearby with more beautiful waters, lined with white sands and tall palm trees which provide very welcome shade. Opposite here is Etaine des Salines, a very well presented bird sanctuary. Everywhere we go in the Caribbean we hear tree-frogs.
We all enjoy a light local lunch by the beach at "Deices de la mer", including stuffed land crab, a local specialty.
We travel directly from here to the airport to farewell Helen and Theo after the most wonderful time with them both. Next time we catch up will be in Australia which seems so far away from here.
Arboretum Gardens
The Botanic Gardens
Rainforest
Humming Birds
A visit up the top of Montagne Pelle is disappointing because it is under cloud and there is torrential rain. The views from here are supposed to be excellent.
Local pastel coloured cottages
View of the n.west coast of Martinique
View along the walk
The village is very small with some almost 3rd. world country housing, but development is beginning. Chez Tante Arlette is the only restauant here, known as the gastronomique creole inn,
and the dinner is delicious. It is basic accommodation but spotlessly clean.
Thursday 3rd. March
Driving back there are great views over the ocean and further east and then south there are more modern houses and farms with very fertile volcanic soil. There are many acres of bananas grown in this area.
We get back in time to leave Port du Marin before lunch. We motor-sail and have some sailing with just the headsail out on a lovely day. We pass between Diamond rock, which was occupied by the english during the napoleonic wars, and the s.w. coast of Matinique , to Anse Mitan.
The guide book indicates La Pagerie Museum, the original home of Empress Josephine, is open until 5.30pm. We walk many ks. (we can´t find a taxi available in this small town) to find it actually doesn´t allow people in after 4pm. so we are too late. It is a lovely walk though and we can actually see the gardens and the exterior of the house.
Josephine was born here. She was a consort of Napoleon´s and empress of the french.
Trois Islets
Fleur de Sole
Friday 4th. March
Sailing along the west coast of Martinique where we walked
This morning is the beginning of getting everything ship-shape on Impulsive again, especially as this is an excellent marina for having repairs done, and it has a well equipped chandlery. We have planned to allow time here for this.
We are placed in a berth next to another Australian yacht and not far away is a yacht with an Australian skipper with his french wife. We enjoy their company very much. It is great to compare notes with them and they both have helpful suggestions.
We are having a week sharing a slice of Helen and Theo´s life which is a wonderful experience. Included in this time is Theo´s birthday which is a great celebration, especially as their 3 sons and their families can be here with them.
Tuesday is a public holiday here for Independence Day. Helen includes us in a large beach barb-e-que party. This is such a colourful scene with the beach packed with the local families, many of the children romping in the sea and playing on the beach with their dark skin glistening in the sun. Ross is disappointed there is no cricket game, just football.
Helen takes me shopping one day so we know where to go to provision. Also she introduces me to her hairdresser who Ross and I need to make an appointment with. Having this local knowledge is invaluable.
We are introduced to another english couple who have been coming here for 4 months for the last 5 years. They have become very involved with the community and help raising money for different charities here. eg post hurricane issues and the local primary school. Selling a local cook book has been very successful; golf days and dinners have all helped. We are sorry we can´t help them with the large junior rally next week. They were hoping we could be a mother ship which would involve taking a sailor and his/her coach across to Matinique on Impulsive and they would stay on her for the duration of the rally. It would be great fun too with the welcoming and farewelling ceremonies.
One day we take a tour into the Rainforest. The cable car ride up through the forest is very interesting and informative. Then the zip-lining down is great fun!
Ross zip-lining out of the forest
The zip-lining teamAnother day we hire bikes and ride out to Pigeon Island to the National Park where we walk up top the top of Rodney´s Fort. This used to be the base for the British navy. While enjoying the marvelous 360 degree views here we meet up with another Australian family. We hope to see them later in our travels.
RIding back through the small coastal fishing village of Gros Islet at dusk we feel slightly uncomfortable. I am pleased Ross has waited for me.
Theo and I managed to fit in some very enjoyable golf on the beautiful, but challenging course here. There are many water hazards!
The walk around Pointe du Cap on the n.east coast gives a panoramic view along the spectacular rugged coast line including cacti growing wildly.
Point du cap
On the way back we meet up with Helen, Theo and family on the Cotton Bay resort beach, and Ross finally has his game of cricket. This is great fun and with all our different passports we can say it is a game between U.K., West Indies and Australia!
There is a great sight here of horses galloping along the beach just being ridden with halters. Later they swim in the sea.
Dinner on Impulsive - Adam, Gracie and Freyer
Helen and Rufus
We have numerous memorable dinners together during our stay here, including one on Impulsive.
We congratulate Helen and Theo on their resort. We can see all their attention to detail, and the whole project is extra special as they have their 3 sons involved as well.
Boating issues at St. Lucia
Ross organized :
Silicon spray on bolt rope
visa for U.S. Virgin islands
new radar reflector
cable in for new temperature sensor for the battery
replaced anchor chain link
changed engine oil and filters
transfer stripe - with help of our Aussie neighbour who is an expert at this
Help with:
repairing the foot of the sail
refitting the mainsail cord for the main clew
Cleaning the ceiling lining throughout the interior
MARTINIQUE
Since 1946 Martinique has been an overseas department of France. It is largely mountainous, with many beautiful beaches. Mt. Pelee is an active volcano. Tourism is the basis of its economy.
On Monday 28th. February, with Impulsive ship-shape, we leave Rodney Bay , St. Lucia for Martinique with Helen, Theo and their son Adam on board. Helen and Theo have a tight schedule so we are lucky the forecast is suitable for the crossing.
This crossing is only about 20 n.miles but it becomes a very difficult sail. Firstly we need to put the repaired sail up and the wind is very changeable so it is a challenge to keep the boat heading into the wind to do this well.
There is a lot of northerly in the wind which is just east of north, 10 degrees,so our best course takes us 10 n.miles off our target. The weather report is completely incorrect! So then we have to bash into 30 kt. winds to come into Marin.
Adam at the helm
Helen and Theo on board
To add to our difficulties the wind is very strong and changeable coming into Martinique which makes getting the mainsail down again very difficult. Also there are many fishing buoys in this area. We are very grateful to have Adam´s crewing expertise and experience on this leg.This whole exercise takes us 7 hours. We tie up to a mooring at 4pm. and Ross takes Adam out in the dinghy to find a taxi to catch his 5.15 pm connecting flight home to London. We half expect to see him join us for dinner tonight but thankfully he makes it in time.(We hear from Helen later a friend of hers had the worst day´s sailing this same day and was whited out crossing from Grenada)
Ross finds the parochialism very strong here with the french. He has to fill in the customs form on the computer. St. Lucia is not even on the drop down list and you can actually see it from here. When he types it in it doesn´t come up because he writes it in the english form and not the french.
Now we can relax again.
After a pre-dinner nap we head off with Helen and Theo to Cap Est resort and restaurant. It is on the east coast near Baie du Simon. Going ashore in a new place is time consuming sometimes, especially in the dark. First we need to find a safe place to leave the dinghy and then we needed to find a taxi.
Cap Est is one of their competitors so it is an excellent opportunity for them to see how this place is run. It is interesting for Ross and me to see how they go about appraising these places. We all enjoyed the french cuisine here very much. This is a lovely outing, and is quite a late night by the time we return to Impulsive.
Today we hire a car for some exploring. Our first stop is at the delightful seaside village of St. Annes. Here we spend time at the market, sample accras, the local delicious fish cakes and have coffee by the turquoise sea. Anse des Salines is a very popular long stretch of beach nearby with more beautiful waters, lined with white sands and tall palm trees which provide very welcome shade. Opposite here is Etaine des Salines, a very well presented bird sanctuary. Everywhere we go in the Caribbean we hear tree-frogs.
We all enjoy a light local lunch by the beach at "Deices de la mer", including stuffed land crab, a local specialty.
We travel directly from here to the airport to farewell Helen and Theo after the most wonderful time with them both. Next time we catch up will be in Australia which seems so far away from here.
The Arboretum gardens on the east coast are very interesting. We are slowly learning something of the plants and birds here.
Arboretum GardensToday Ross feels happy to leave the boat overnight on this mooring. It is actually our 1st night ashore this leg. We drive up the centre of the island via the Botanic Gardens.These are well laid out and the tree-top walk is well worth while.
The Botanic Gardens
Rainforest
Humming BirdsA visit up the top of Montagne Pelle is disappointing because it is under cloud and there is torrential rain. The views from here are supposed to be excellent.
Heading north the rainforest is lush, and there are acres of sugar cane and banana plantations on the plains. All the farmland here looks so fertile with its rich volcanic soil. Reaching the extreme n. west of the island at cap Martin via Grand Riviera the scenery is beautiful and dramatic. Our destination there is Chez Tante Arlette, an inn which serves typically creole dishes, with fresh locally caught fish and lobsters as their speciality. This is a very small fishing village and the attraction is a 16 ks. walk through the rainforest along the coast and getting a lift back in a yole, which is one of the brightly coloured local fishing boats.
Local pastel coloured cottages
View of the n.west coast of Martinique
We haven´t time to do the walk before dark but we do enough to get the feel of the area. It is a very impressive place, even though the rain buckets down towards dusk.
View along the walk
The village is very small with some almost 3rd. world country housing, but development is beginning. Chez Tante Arlette is the only restauant here, known as the gastronomique creole inn,
and the dinner is delicious. It is basic accommodation but spotlessly clean.
Thursday 3rd. March
Driving back there are great views over the ocean and further east and then south there are more modern houses and farms with very fertile volcanic soil. There are many acres of bananas grown in this area.
We get back in time to leave Port du Marin before lunch. We motor-sail and have some sailing with just the headsail out on a lovely day. We pass between Diamond rock, which was occupied by the english during the napoleonic wars, and the s.w. coast of Matinique , to Anse Mitan.
The guide book indicates La Pagerie Museum, the original home of Empress Josephine, is open until 5.30pm. We walk many ks. (we can´t find a taxi available in this small town) to find it actually doesn´t allow people in after 4pm. so we are too late. It is a lovely walk though and we can actually see the gardens and the exterior of the house.
Josephine was born here. She was a consort of Napoleon´s and empress of the french.
A lovely local woman and her African friend drive us into the small town of "Trois Ilets".
Trois IsletsWe enjoy walking around and sitting by the water´s edge in the cool of the evening. People watching in the main square after a wedding is entertaining. We enjoy a wonderful french dinner at "Fleur de Sel"
Fleur de SoleFriday 4th. March
The sailing from Martinique to Dominica is very relaxed with 16-20 kt. winds on the beam, tracking at up to 8 kts. There are many yachts out here today which adds to the atmosphere. Also this is a 55 n.mile sail which is longer than we have had between most of the islands, so it is very pleasant.
Sailing along the west coast of Martinique where we walked
